Mud Sweat & Gears 20....13!!!

berm bandit

Are you talking about Jack the Numplumbz rider?

If so he was suspected to have a broken finger, ribs and collar bone plus a large and nasty lump on the temple.

After the medics had finished checking him over apparently that list softened up a tad to some stitches and a collar bone. Very sore but Ok

pilch

Yep broken collar bone and he managed to rip his nail out of his finger, which the doc stitched back in as we watched, I didn't know they could do that! His helmet is a write off, but did its job saving his head.

He is a seasoned campaigner and very experienced rider, just shows how hard that course is when a guy of that calibre gets bit... he still managed to climb on to the podium for his well deserved series win however and we have a new team salute....

bigdawg

no wasnt him - young guy in the elite race

The number of people I saw going over the a line and catching their chainring was frightening, its that that kicks the back wheel up.

sparkingchains

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rsmphoto/10025965005/

Big selection of shots from Sunday.

http://bit.ly/15FfFuo

ollie51

bigdawg wrote:

no wasnt him - young guy in the elite race.

Do you mean this guy: http://www.flickr.com/photos/rsmphoto/1 ... /lightbox/ i.e. me?

bigdawg

thats him.... you!

you ok..?!

ollie51

bigdawg wrote:

thats him.... you!

you ok..?!

I'm going to be off the bike for a while, I was having a bad race and was taking a lot of risks on the downhills to make up time - I can't really remember what happened but people generally say I went in way too fast and massively overshot the landing. Garmin says I was doing about 10 mph before dropping in, I reckon 5-6mph is the sweetspot whereby you don't catch your chainring/it's smoother. >8 mph is definitely too fast!

Apparently I bounce well too...

Did anyone get a picture?

bigdawg

tbh it doesnt really matter how fast you go in (if youve got control of the bike) but as soon as the front wheel touches the lip of the drop youve got to push the front wheel forward to clear your chainring which no one was doing - but then I only know that because Ive had coaches taking me round.

Did see a few guys go in really fast and then push down into it, like a drop worked quite well, and eve na couple that dropped onto the grass to the right - nice move!

There are def pics about, there were about a dozen photogrpahers there - but dont know who they were...

ollie51

bigdawg wrote:

tbh it doesnt really matter how fast you go in (if youve got control of the bike) but as soon as the front wheel touches the lip of the drop youve got to push the front wheel forward to clear your chainring which no one was doing - but then I only know that because Ive had coaches taking me round.

Did see a few guys go in really fast and then push down into it, like a drop worked quite well, and eve na couple that dropped onto the grass to the right - nice move!

There are def pics about, there were about a dozen photogrpahers there - but dont know who they were...

Yeah, one of the guys on my team said I pushed the front down, but because I'd flow too far through the air it jut basically lead to a nose dive. I've done that drop many times, just never done it that fast. A quick gander at Strava says that Nino Schurter takes it at about 8mph - so yeah I tried to take it faster than he would...

I'd say it definitely does matter how fast you're going, unless you've got a 150mm skill compensator and plan to just huck it to the flat below (which I've see done), then go as fast as you can.

bigdawg

glad to say you looked to be ok albeit a little dazed - and hats off for taking the A, most of the elite, top sport master and vets all went down the C

ollie51

I actually find the C line the hardest, only one I'd crashed on prior to Sunday. The again, I was going too fast that time too...

WindyG

I noticed Jason Boutell took the sneaky line to the right on the grass.
Glad to hear your ok Ollie, as bigdawg said you mostly looked a bit dazed.

berm bandit

Its alright he always looks like that......

cycleclinic

If found it quite scarey. I lost places on the tech sections but gained on the climbs. The problem is rocks, many of the tech bits would have been fine for me if they were dirt but introduce rock and I go a bit wobbley. There is on steep decent where the A run would have been easier than the steep dirt decent followed by the 90 degree turn but I took the B-run because I can ride on dirt.

bigdawg

those rocks are (a) very mess with your head (b) super grippy - the course was designed so that if it rained we wouldnt just be watching riders sliding sideways... theres would have been tons more grip on the rocks than the dirt, but your head says this'll hurt if it all goes wrong...!

WindyG

The rocks were what held me back and I know it was the same for others, I just didn't want to risk a serious injury.
I made all my gains on the climbs especially Snake hill which I actually enjoyed riding up, plus I was off as fast as I could though the wooded/rooted section.

bigdawg

not particularly MS&Gs orientated but after many many seasons racing on my current bike pretty much everything bar the frame has given up...

The ideal obviously would be just to replace the components but its a 97 titanium kona hei hei - with no disc tabs, otherwise Id just by a new set of wheels groupset forks etc... but everything will fit straight on bar the back brake.

So what are you guys riding, or more importantly what are the things you dont like about your bikes?? Im looking for something sub 20lbs not bothered still 26'' and hardtail. Obviously been looking at the giants scotts and cannondales but dont know anything about new bikes and really not keen on paying £4k plus, as I dont have it!

comments and suggestions welcome please.

VWsurfbum

Why not get a A2z brake adapter for the frame?

bigdawg

that was my first thought, but looking at some of the reviews it wont fit my frame (have no idea why?!) and if you get a puncture it looks as though you have some work to get the wheel out...

Was looking at another companies adaptor in the US but they want over £180 for it!

Ill keep my eyes out for one of the old hope ones on ebay though...

WindyG

I race mostly my Scott as it's a bit lighter and the frame cost me so little i'm not bothered if it gets wrecked but I am on the look out for a carbon frame like a Giant XTC or Scott Scale, my other bike is a Anthem X not too much is standard on that anymore and it's light for a fs. Only thing I don't like are the brakes on the Scott so they might be getting changed soon for some Shimano's

evo3ben

Dont forget to look at British companies such as 'On-One' and new kids on the block 'Fluid'. On-one still make the Whippet which is a really nice carbon 26" frame (not as light as Cannondale or Scott high end carbon frames) but for £350 its a bargin. Build under 20lbs with good kit and also takes 650B.
Fluid cycles www.fluidcycles.co.uk are based in Milton Keynes and is where i would go for a 29er frame. £650 gets you carbon frame and carbon ridged fork making sub 20lb easily achievable on a sensible budget. I am tempted i must admit and spoke to Kevin at Fluid only the other day to meet and have a look 8)

My 2012 26er Cannondale Scalpel weighs a nice 21.9lbs and if i dont get tempted for a 29er i will make a few tweeks to get it down to 20lbs. Great handling, comfort when you need it and super quick! Not cheap though lol

ollie51

evo3ben wrote:

. On-one still make the Whippet which is a really nice carbon 26" frame (not as light as Cannondale or Scott high end carbon frames) but for £350 its a bargin. Build under 20lbs with good kit and also takes 650B.

Only get a Whippet if you can't afford anything else, they're only good bikes in the context of the price. Mine weighed 1414g according to my 'drug dealer' scales. Building under 20lbs is hard too, and does require a) lots of money or b) a compromise on strength. Mines a shade under 21lbs and that's with XTR/XT 1x10, light finishing kit, sub 1400g wheels, SIDs etc.

Scott Scales are cracking bikes, Specialized Stumpjumpers too - don't rule out the other wheels sizes though!

sparkingchains

I'd have a look at Fluid too, having seen them in the flesh they look great and are value for money. One-one have some nice frames and deals but they aren't the lightest. Fluid offer a bit more exclusivity too!

VWsurfbum

sparkingchains wrote:

I'd have a look at Fluid too, having seen them in the flesh they look great and are value for money. One-one have some nice frames and deals but they aren't the lightest. Fluid offer a bit more exclusivity too!

http://www.fluidcycles.co.uk/products/framesets/

I've seen these at a couple of races, I had the same or if not very similar bike, very comftable and light. but i built mine cheaper

http://www.flyxii.com/products_1.asp?menuid=336&id=877

viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12856085&hilit=shakira

CUBEical

sparkingchains wrote:

Big selection of photos from the afternoon race - http://bit.ly/15FfFuo
Email if you are interested in any

Why does it say you have nothing available to me ?

WindyG

I think he archives the pics after certain period of time, you might to let him know the race and your number.

evo3ben

VWsurfbum wrote:

sparkingchains wrote:

I'd have a look at Fluid too, having seen them in the flesh they look great and are value for money. One-one have some nice frames and deals but they aren't the lightest. Fluid offer a bit more exclusivity too!

http://www.fluidcycles.co.uk/products/framesets/

I've seen these at a couple of races, I had the same or if not very similar bike, very comftable and light. but i built mine cheaper

http://www.flyxii.com/products_1.asp?menuid=336&id=877

viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12856085&hilit=shakira

The big problem with some of the Chinese companies is that they copy the frames from other manufacturers, make them cheaper and sell them cheaper. Take On-One frames for instance. You can buy them cheaper from China but they are not made buy the same company that supply On-One, dont go through the same testing as On-One puts there frames through and i suspect are not near the quality of On-One frames.
Same goes for Fluid frames. They are made by a reputable manufacturer that also supplies 1/2 of the big guns out there so they know the quality of the frames are to a very high standard.
I would not risk buying a frame from a Chinese copy cat company and by looking at what happened to your frame says it all. Im not writting the Chinese copy frames off, just saying that i dont think they are to the quality of major manufacturing companies and brands out there.

VWsurfbum

Not denying any of that ben, I like the look of your bikes, like most of the frames from the major manufacturers they source their carbon frames from one of two big manufacture's of carbon frames in china, both of mine came from one of those

bigdawg

cheers for the suggestions guys but as my other half has just been told she could be made redundant bike purchases are off for the minute. Shit happens,shouldn't be too hard for her to get another job if needed but what a right royal pain in the butt.

My best season in years, second overall ion the whipstakes series, and Im looking at starting training wthout actually having a bike to ride next year...

Oh and speaking of next year was speaking to Matt recently - dates are pretty much confirmed, a couple of new venues too...