Carrera Kraken *Update Page 5

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Comments

  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    A bit of an update and some new pics.

    7279285766_dfef27b232_z.jpg
    After a cleaning session in the wonderful sun we've been getting 8) long may it last!

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    Now that the forks have bedded in, they're superb! I'm really fond of the new grips to and a fiver for a replacement grip cartridge isn't expensive! I've just ordered a new Shimano Deore Chainset and Hollowtech ii BB, and a Schwalbe Nobby Nic for the front from Rosebikes. The current bb is just wrecked, a really load knocking noise when the pedal is shaken, and when going downhill so I can't wait to get rid of it. Below is a bleed kit I made up from ebay, worked a charm :D shame I contaminated the front disc and pads :cry: But I can't wait for these new bits to arrive! A nice exam/school finishing present for myself for after my last one!

    7279286066_5fc68a6590_z.jpg
  • IT66T
    IT66T Posts: 377
    It's a great looking machine and i'm not familiar with that colour frame but it really does look the part so how come the BB has broke so quick ? .
    You must treat others with respect in order to be respected ..
    09 5.2 Rockrider budget rescue . viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=13033836&p=19671152#p19670604
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    IT66T wrote:
    It's a great looking machine and i'm not familiar with that colour frame but it really does look the part so how come the BB has broke so quick ? .

    Thanks :) I'm not sure but I've had problems with it from day 1. On my first ride the non drive side crank fell off after about half an hour which rounded the splines. I took it back into halfords, and they replaced the bottom bracket and cranks. They had to use a huge lever to get the old one off, as it was put on that tight. I've tried tightening and loosening it to attempt to fix it but I can't get it to budge so I'm booking it into an lbs for them to replace the old one, face the shell, and fit the new bb to save the hassle. I expected it to last longer and now the only bearings on the bike I haven't replaced are the hubs :?
  • leaflite
    leaflite Posts: 1,651
    I used to have a truvativ powerspline BB. Yours isn't faulty-none of them last particularly long. Just look at the reviews!
    Mine lasted less than a year before developing play.

    My new hollowtech one is lasting much better.
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    Leaflite, did you get your bb faced? I think i've decided to get it done, but I installed my headset cups without facing the headtube and there's no problem there.
  • leaflite
    leaflite Posts: 1,651
    edited May 2012
    I was going to, as I couldnt get the old BB out(I managed to round the bolt holding the crank to the bb!) so I thought I would get the lbs to take it out and face it at the same time. Anyway, I decided to have another go and managed to drill it out and remove it. Then, I couldnt be bothered to wait for the next workshop slot so just fitted the new one.

    Im not sure whether this was down to not having it faced or something else, but it was quite difficult to get the crank all the way through the frame so the left arm could bolt on. However, one year on there is no play and the bearings are still very smooth. Because of this, I am not sure how crucial facing it is-if you have the time you might as well, but for me at least it didnt seem to affect performance or longevity in any way.
    Just bear in mind that sometimes after facing the paint can flake off around the bb shell.
  • ali4390
    ali4390 Posts: 106
    Your bike looks really smart mate, I've got one but in much more standard form than that.

    How do you find your tyres in terms of grip?
  • IT66T
    IT66T Posts: 377
    Greer_ wrote:
    Leaflite, did you get your bb faced? I think i've decided to get it done, but I installed my headset cups without facing the headtube and there's no problem there.

    Their is no point in facing the BB unless the ends of the BB are particularly thick with paint or powder coating and the only other reason to face them is because the coating has flaked off in patches leaving it impossible for you to tighten the BB so it's a flush fit lol .
    You must treat others with respect in order to be respected ..
    09 5.2 Rockrider budget rescue . viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=13033836&p=19671152#p19670604
  • Great job mate. I'm doing the same to an old Kraken (not sure of the year? it was blue/white with zoom forks and Alex rims). I removed all the paint and wirebrushed the frame and decided to leave it "naked"! :D. I to have stuck some Recons on there (Silver TK £109 from on one). My wheels are due anytime from Merlin and i plan to go for mostly Alivio groupset.

    Good luck with your ride :D .

    Thanks.
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    leaflite wrote:
    Im not sure whether this was down to not having it faced or something else, but it was quite difficult to get the crank all the way through the frame so the left arm could bolt on. However, one year on there is no play and the bearings are still very smooth. Because of this, I am not sure how crucial facing it is-if you have the time you might as well, but for me at least it didnt seem to affect performance or longevity in any way.
    Just bear in mind that sometimes after facing the paint can flake off around the bb shell.
    IT66T wrote:
    Their is no point in facing the BB unless the ends of the BB are particularly thick with paint or powder coating and the only other reason to face them is because the coating has flaked off in patches leaving it impossible for you to tighten the BB so it's a flush fit lol .

    See, after not getting my headtube faced, I've always felt some amount of play in the steerer and I don't want to take this risk with the bb. Any help on the headset would be much appreciated. I emailed superstar about my problem and they replied with its either "Frame needs facing, Cups are not in straight, Bearing is in upsidedown, Topcap is hitting steerer". But I can't find a problem anywhere. (will stick this in the workshop advice section if I don't get a reply). it's beginning to get very annoying!
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    ali4390 wrote:
    Your bike looks really smart mate, I've got one but in much more standard form than that.

    How do you find your tyres in terms of grip?

    Thanks :) the tires have started to wear down a fair bit hence the new one on order, and a new rear tire will be needed soon too. They were fine for what I was doing last year in the dry, then I ran them through the winter as I couldn't afford a new set. There's very little rolling resistance, but still a fair bit of grip! I wouldn't have a problem using them again, I just wouldn't go out of my way to get them.
    Great job mate. I'm doing the same to an old Kraken (not sure of the year? it was blue/white with zoom forks and Alex rims). I removed all the paint and wirebrushed the frame and decided to leave it "naked"! :D. I to have stuck some Recons on there (Silver TK £109 from on one). My wheels are due anytime from Merlin and i plan to go for mostly Alivio groupset.

    Good luck with your ride :D .

    Thanks.

    Removed the paint? Did you spray any coats of clear lacquer on the frame afterwards? Otherwise there's a good chance it will rust. I was trying to decide between the two recons, but I settled on the recons because they were air for not an awful lot more. Are they the £57 Sun rims by any chance? :lol: bargain!
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    As long as the tube (BB and Headtube) are not stupidly out of 'true' it won't cause looseness.

    On the headset - check the bits superstar list, it's got to be one one those as it worked before.
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    I'll have another check, will it matter that there is about a 10mm gap (maybe more) between the top of the steerer and the top cap?
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Sorry mate don't know what you mean - a pic would be best.
  • Yeah mate them's the wheels LMAO! just couldn't pass up an offer like that (though i hoped they might be here by now ordered Friday and checked this morning and the order says "in picking" so still on a table somewhere) :(. Also the frame is Alloy so can't rust mate.

    Thanks.
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    Yeah mate them's the wheels LMAO! just couldn't pass up an offer like that (though i hoped they might be here by now ordered Friday and checked this morning and the order says "in picking" so still on a table somewhere) :(. Also the frame is Alloy so can't rust mate.

    Thanks.

    Ignore me! :oops:
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    Sorry mate don't know what you mean - a pic would be best.

    I had it apart again tonight, and I still can't find any problems! :cry: ^^ doesn't matter, that isn't a problem.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    IT66T wrote:
    Their is no point in facing the BB unless the ends of the BB are particularly thick with paint or powder coating and the only other reason to face them is because the coating has flaked off in patches leaving it impossible for you to tighten the BB so it's a flush fit lol .
    What utter BS, if the frame isn't faced the metal part of the shell on older bikes will often not be parallel (it had no need to be with one piece internal bearings like Square taper etc), so external bearings will not sit true and have a shorter life, my daughters Dirty Jo was miles off, it has very little to do with paint at all....

    A little knowledge is more dangerous than none at all!

    Most headtubes are faced as the bearings have always been seperate.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • leaflite
    leaflite Posts: 1,651
    +1, the headtube should have already been faced when the original headset was fitted.

    Do the spacers come higher than the steerer tube if the top cap is removed? if they dont by a sufficient amount(~5mm or so), the top cap will just tighten against the steerer and not load the spacers.
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    Nope there's a gap of about 10mm.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    I'm not understanding the gap - did you take a pic?
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    7303522294_7f7d67a8cf_z.jpg

    That is with the bearings already preloaded - they just don't seem to be preloaded enough.

    7303522542_db06a9bb58_n.jpg
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You have fitted the crown race and used the top centring wedge haven't you?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Id get 2 to replace one of your bottom spacers and run 10mm 5mm, stem, 5mm. Shouldn't change things too much.
  • IT66T
    IT66T Posts: 377
    IT66T wrote:
    Their is no point in facing the BB unless the ends of the BB are particularly thick with paint or powder coating and the only other reason to face them is because the coating has flaked off in patches leaving it impossible for you to tighten the BB so it's a flush fit lol .
    What utter BS, if the frame isn't faced the metal part of the shell on older bikes will often not be parallel (it had no need to be with one piece internal bearings like Square taper etc), so external bearings will not sit true and have a shorter life, my daughters Dirty Jo was miles off, it has very little to do with paint at all....

    A little knowledge is more dangerous than none at all!

    Most headtubes are faced as the bearings have always been seperate.


    Maybe i shouldn't have been so eager to be so helpful as obviously things have changed considerably since i was last on the MTB scene back in 1997 and these external bearings are all new to me as i'd no idea that they existed so if i had of known then i wouldn't of written what i had and i will be keeping stum for a good while until i've fully learn't what's out there in the world of MTB's of today and i do agree fully enough about a little knowledge being dangerous .
    You must treat others with respect in order to be respected ..
    09 5.2 Rockrider budget rescue . viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=13033836&p=19671152#p19670604
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    You have fitted the crown race and used the top centring wedge haven't you?

    Crown race is fitted, if the top centring wedge is a split compression ring then it's fitted too. It doesn't seem to sit flush with the bearings but I assume when it's preloaded it pushes it down.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Yes that all sounds right.....

    Is the play at the top or bottom (lay finger on headtube and feel for movement) or both?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    Yes that all sounds right.....

    Is the play at the top or bottom (lay finger on headtube and feel for movement) or both?

    Im not sure :( I was out for a ride this afternoon and I could only feel it when I braked hard using the front brake. Its baffled me! I can't feel any play if I just rock the fork while holding the brake.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    What type of disc mount do you have one your front hub?
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    What type of disc mount do you have one your front hub?

    I went out to take a picture, only to realise what you were talking about. Its a 6 bolt hub and a post mount (I believe) brake. Here's a pic anyway (and it's really not that green!):

    7315063908_4985c0ef0a.jpg