Newbie Bike Building

PaulC7
PaulC7 Posts: 112
edited February 2012 in MTB beginners
Hi All :D

Names Paul 28 from Liverpool

Been a keen biker since my teens but had a break of a few years once i learnt to drive, been back on a bike for a good while now though and enjoying it once again.

Currently have this...

Dunlop DoubleDisc 26

DIS26SD.jpg

Its ok for getting around on but i dont like the frame, plastic chain guard, gear shifters or the rear derailleur so i popped to Halfords to see what they had when i realised i like a bit of everything so thought why not make my own.

For a frame i want something a bit different like a 2004 Specialized Enduro S-Works...

enduro.JPG

but not too expensive.


Would be grateful if anyone could tell me a list of parts needed to build my own apart from the obvious...
wheels, tyres, gears, pedals and so on.


Thanks for reading. :wink:
«134

Comments

  • Holyzeus
    Holyzeus Posts: 354
    Nicolai CC
  • 1mancity2
    1mancity2 Posts: 2,355
    May be cheaper to get a full bike of ebay or classified ads.
    Finished, Check out my custom Giant Reign 2010
    Dirt Jumper Dmr Sidekick2
  • Holyzeus
    Holyzeus Posts: 354
    True but then you start changing everything on it....
    Nicolai CC
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    You need to get/decide on a frame first to make sure the bits you get fit.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • 1mancity2
    1mancity2 Posts: 2,355
    Holyzeus wrote:
    True but then you start changing everything on it....

    I've bought a few frames and built them, but I find it better to buy a bike then add your preffered bits as you go along, that way you have a bike you can ride straight away and not a box of bits.
    Finished, Check out my custom Giant Reign 2010
    Dirt Jumper Dmr Sidekick2
  • PaulC7
    PaulC7 Posts: 112
    I thought about buying a complete bike but most of the parts would be standard, i wouldnt be using them and selling them on fleabay wouldnt bring me much money back as you can pop down your local shop and buy them... you never know though i may just see one complete and buy it.

    Also after reading up a bit more about building it seems there is more to it than just adding bits and tightening it all up but it will be fun and im looking forward to it.

    A few bits that have caught my eye are...

    Shimano Hone M600... but with green cogs.
    Shimano%20Hone%20M600%20Rear.jpg

    Shimano XT M770
    shimano-fdm770.jpg

    Time Z Control
    time-z-control-pedals-IMG18033.jpg

    Pit Bike Brake Disc Type 1
    BC02%20brake%20disc%20pit%20bike%20spare%20part.jpg

    Shimano Alfine
    113881.jpg


    As you can see theres a bit of an edgy theme going on.

    Once i get going will post my build as i go along for those who might be interested in knowing how it is for a first timer.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Edgy or confused?
    AFAIK Hone fits on a specific freehub, not standard dropouts.
    Alfine is hybrid type stuff, not MTB.
    And you'll struggle to find 4 bolt hubs for those rotors.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • delcol
    delcol Posts: 2,848
    i thought the alfine were road/hybrid parts... :?

    what hubs are you using that have 4 hole i aint seen any :? ..
  • PaulC7
    PaulC7 Posts: 112
    cooldad wrote:
    Edgy or confused?

    Edgy is how i want my bike to look.
    Confused is what i will be when it comes to choosing parts as you already found out i know nothing.

    delcol wrote:
    what hubs are you using that have 4 hole i aint seen any

    Im not using any hubs yet as ive only just made the first step towards building the bike i want...
    and hat first step is looking for a frame and reading about how to build one.
  • delcol
    delcol Posts: 2,848
    good luck with this...

    i would recomend you go for a complete bike then do the build as your next bike when you have a bit of knowladge

    from expeierance you always overlook something small but important. like headset spacers....
  • PaulC7
    PaulC7 Posts: 112
    delcol wrote:
    from experience you always overlook something small but important. like headset spacers....

    Ive learnt that lesson before... stripped an engine then rebuilt it after starting it up engine temp was high so had a look and found oil all over the engine because i forgot to refit the oil dipstick tube.

    So i will be reading up properley on whats needed and how i go about it as i dont wish to be going downhill with my handle bars not connected.
  • PaulC7
    PaulC7 Posts: 112
    Been reading up here and on parktool.com and im wandering....

    Is it just a case of getting a frame then fitting 26" wheels

    fit disc brakes then a caliper to them

    fit handle bars then gears and brakes

    and so on

    or...

    will the axle on the wheels determine what size discs i can fit and therefore calipers

    and the size of the handle bars determine what gears and brake levers i can fit

    Therefore limiting my choice of parts
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Er sort of, maybe, kind of sometimes.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • your frame will have to be suited to the wheel and tyre size you want, it will also need to be disk ready if thats the brakes you want.

    The hubs will have to suit the disks, the rear hub will need to be suited to both the rims and the rer sprocket.

    There are many pitfalls and it would be very easy to get yourself into an expensive hole, with for instance a set of brakes costing several hundred pounds that will not fit either your expensive wheels or your frame.
  • jayson
    jayson Posts: 4,606
    Have a look at Merlin, they have some good deals on groupsets for mtb's like the SLX 10 spd set fro £250. They do good wheels aswell so could get alot of parts from them then the rest of the finishing kit from the usual suspects depending on who has the best deals at thetime.

    Aslong as you dont rush it building a bike up is pretty straight forward.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Is it just a case of getting a frame then fitting 26" wheels

    fit disc brakes then a caliper to them

    fit handle bars then gears and brakes

    and so on

    or...

    will the axle on the wheels determine what size discs i can fit and therefore calipers

    and the size of the handle bars determine what gears and brake levers i can fit

    Therefore limiting my choice of parts

    You are half way there... but you need to read more. The answer to all your questions is usually 'no'.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I've built a few bikes, the easiest way is to get the frame and forks you want then search ebay/gumtree for a suitable donor bike for all the little bits and pieces, build it and then change it later, that's how I built a bike for my wife with new frame/forks/saddle and headset for less than £60, selling on what I didn't need.

    Right now your bike is going to cost you in excess of £1000 on top of the frame because of how your looking at and getting bits.

    The Alfine crankset will work as long as you don't want any gears at the front by the way, which rules out your XT front mech (it only has one chainwheel, so clearly no front mech required!)

    List of bits you'll need taken from my own build listing
    Frame
    BB
    Crankset
    Shifters
    Front gear cable
    Rear Gear cable
    Rear Mech
    Front mech
    Chain
    Front brake
    Rear brake
    Seatpost
    Clamp
    Saddle
    Headset
    Forks
    Stem
    Bars
    Grips
    Spacers
    Wheelset
    Front disc
    Bolts
    Cassette
    Rear Disc
    Bolts
    Tyres/Tubes
    Pedals

    Plus the specila tools!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • PaulC7
    PaulC7 Posts: 112
    the easiest way is to get the frame and forks you want then search ebay/gumtree for a suitable donor bike for all the little bits and pieces.

    Right now your bike is going to cost you in excess of £1000

    Im not going to go down the donor bike route as they wont have what im looking for... i really am being fussy,
    im after a nice frame then green cables, grips, cogs (will do paint job myself), derailleurs a bit different from the norm and so on so i doubt any donor bike i see will have any of what i want.

    And parts i will be buying will be of the cheap or reasonable price range £1000 or close to that is way out of my budget.

    I got my Dunlop which is doing me for my riding around town so in no rush to have my new ride asap (which is a good thing cause still got to get my head round all the tech side of things), but once built i will look at getting down a few trails but nothing too serious just a weekend out no competitions hence why i dont want to spend a fortune.


    Thanks for the list Simon
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    From what you're now saying your best bet is to buy a bike that fits the essence of what you want and then change cables/grips etc which is a much cheaper and easier excercise! None of my bikes have cost me a fortune yet both are fairly well specced as a I buy the right parts (used mostly) and fit them as I go, being patient to get the right part at the right price.

    Almost anything you build will be better than that generic full suspension cynically rebadged by Dunlop, they are seriously rubbish
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Ghostt
    Ghostt Posts: 192
    Are you more concerned about how it will look or how it will ride?! Really, I'd go and test ride a few bikes in your budget range, find one you like riding and start from there. It's also much easier to learn how to 'build' a bike by taking an existing one and swapping over parts. That way, if you put something on incorrectly, you're more likely to notice the difference between the component before and after replacing and be able to fix it.

    Rebuilding a complete bike is also makes it a lot easier to buy new parts, as everything has to be compatible! I don't think any of the parts you listed were compatible with each other, they simply wouldn't work together.
    Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go - T.S. Eliot
  • PaulC7
    PaulC7 Posts: 112
    Probably more looks.

    My job involves driving a lot of expensive cars and sports cars so understand and feel the difference between a Astra and an M3 as they have different components, setups and computers controlling all the suspesnion... but when it comes to bikes i cant see how the ride/handling could be poor on some and good on the others.. as the components are the same... steering, wheel and suspesnion.

    I await to be corrected lol
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Awesome you must be the Stig.
    So the only difference between an Astra and a Ferrari is a computer?
    I call troll.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    PaulC7 wrote:
    Probably more looks.

    My job involves driving a lot of expensive cars and sports cars so understand and feel the difference between a Astra and an M3 as they have different components, setups and computers controlling all the suspesnion... but when it comes to bikes i cant see how the ride/handling could be poor on some and good on the others.. as the components are the same... steering, wheel and suspesnion.

    I await to be corrected lol
    By that logic all cars are the same. They all have a few seats, 4 wheels and a steering wheel!
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    Also, what do yuo actually want?

    You want gears that aren't the 'norm'. Why? What do you mean by that.

    Going 1x10 would drop some weight, or you could get a hub gear, but that's about it in terms of 'edgy' stuff.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • Ghostt
    Ghostt Posts: 192
    In that case, why not just tell your LBS what you want and let them build it?
    Alternatively: http://store.ferrari.com/en/sports-game ... cycle.html

    or http://www.porsche-bike.com/us/porsche-bike-rs/ (this one's RRP is £6000)
    Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go - T.S. Eliot
  • PaulC7 wrote:
    Probably more looks.

    My job involves driving a lot of expensive cars and sports cars so understand and feel the difference between a Astra and an M3 as they have different components, setups and computers controlling all the suspesnion... but when it comes to bikes i cant see how the ride/handling could be poor on some and good on the others.. as the components are the same... steering, wheel and suspesnion.

    I await to be corrected lol


    Are you really that much of a fool?
  • PaulC7
    PaulC7 Posts: 112
    bails87 wrote:
    By that logic all cars are the same. They all have a few seats, 4 wheels and a steering wheel!
    Yes in a way cars are the same but how the suspension is put together and controlled by the computers determines how good or bad they handle... what im trying to understand is how can a bike be good or bad at handling without such aids.

    Are you really that much of a fool?

    Im not a fool and nor am i trying to tick anybody off im simply a novice trying to learn from the many knowledgeable people on here... and if you have been a member for a good while then im sure you have had many novices ask dumb questions and i apologize if im asking another stupid one.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    PaulC7 wrote:
    bails87 wrote:
    By that logic all cars are the same. They all have a few seats, 4 wheels and a steering wheel!
    Yes in a way cars are the same but how the suspension is put together and controlled by the computers determines how good or bad they handle... what im trying to understand is how can a bike be good or bad at handling without such aids.

    Are you really that much of a fool?

    Im not a fool and nor am i trying to tick anybody off im simply a novice trying to learn from the many knowledgeable people on here... and if you have been a member for a good while then im sure you have had many novices ask dumb questions and i apologize if im asking another stupid one.
    Balls. Just balls.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    So, what makes an expensive bike better than a cheap one.

    Weight - makes it easier to move the bike, stop it, and turn it. This is a massive factor, heavy bikes (like the Dunlop) are horrible, anything decent will be a revelation.

    Stiffness - The bike goes where you point it

    Control - Better forks and brakes. For example, cheap forks are just a spring in a tube. Hit a bump and they (might) compress, then they 'ping' back with no control. Good forks will have low speed compression damping to tune out pedal bob, high speed compression damping to deal with big hits, adjustable rebound damping to stop the fork springing back to full extension uncontrollably. Exactly as you say, the way the suspension is put together is different.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    TBH if an expert on cutting edge sports car technology couldn't work that out for himself, you probably should have used simpler words.
    Like some bits are better.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools