The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
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On the CREE data sheet it says @ 2000mA 692 is a minimum. So if a lamp is using a power supply giving out 4400mA then theoretically it would seem they can give 1200 Lumens? Why don't they?0
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The output of lumens is not linear to the input of amps. They get less and less efficient, then it drops of sharply. Then they pop lol.0
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supersonic wrote:The output of lumens is not linear to the input of amps. They get less and less efficient, then it drops of sharply. Then they pop lol.
Makes sense to me :-)
Cheers0 -
On the graph I saw, maximum theoretical output from a t6 is around 980 lumens at a sensible current.
The U2 is a bit more powerful, and you could probably get both above 1000 if you took them up to 4-5A. However, the heat generated at that current would be massive and I doubt that the LED would last long. The batteries wouldnt last long either, and the current may be too much for the battery.
That is why almost all the XML lights I have seen run at 2.8A or less. This seems to be the optimum for battery life, heat and brightness, with 6-800 real world lumens. If you want more, get one with 2 or 3 LEDs0 -
Optimum for an XM-L is about 1.8-2.4A as this is where it produces max output before the output starts to drop off.
I drove an MC-E to 4.5A the other day and it was very bright. About twice as bright as an old SSC p7 Magic shine. It lasted 10 mins.
There are a few examples on the Web of people taking XM-Ls to 5A as direct drive. Produces about 1300 lumen at this current, which given you can get 70% of that at less than half the current is not good.0 -
alibabameister wrote:diy wrote:Protection circuit has tripped or failed, which breaks the circuit giving zero volts. Even totally dead packs will give some voltage
so it should come back when recharged ? the charger initially showed a red light then after an hour went green. the light stayed on for about 15 minutes then went straight off . upon further inspection the insides of the charger where rather charred0 -
MTBR.com 2012 light shootout http://reviews.mtbr.com/2012-bike-lights-shootout
................................................Ouija wrote:Don't know what the diameter of your reflector is but you might want look into something like this....
This looked quite good but got round to measuring the reflector size on the 3xT6 and it's approx 40mm diameter by 18mm deep, not found an OP one that would fit yet...
Also the splitter cable turned up and works with 2 battery packs :thumbsup:, got over 5 hours out of the light last night using just 1 of the 3 LED's which is fine for most riding then I can keep the full power 3 LED mode for downhill stuff.0 -
diy wrote:Optimum for an XM-L is about 1.8-2.4A as this is where it produces max output before the output starts to drop off.
I drove an MC-E to 4.5A the other day and it was very bright. About twice as bright as an old SSC p7 Magic shine. It lasted 10 mins.
There are a few examples on the Web of people taking XM-Ls to 5A as direct drive. Produces about 1300 lumen at this current, which given you can get 70% of that at less than half the current is not good.
So a light like this claims to give 4.4A, clearly a rubbish claim is it?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pellor-Bicycle-Outdoor-Sports-HeadLamp/dp/B007X8YFYY0 -
Neal_ wrote:This looked quite good but got round to measuring the reflector size on the 3xT6 and it's approx 40mm diameter by 18mm deep, not found an OP one that would fit yet...
Also the splitter cable turned up and works with 2 battery packs :thumbsup:, got over 5 hours out of the light last night using just 1 of the 3 LED's which is fine for most riding then I can keep the full power 3 LED mode for downhill stuff.
Then buy a 10 pack of 41.5mm glass lenses for your torch and a can of glass frosting aerosol spray and have some fun experimenting (the spray can also be used on the reflector but it's better to experiment on disposable front lenses instead).
Could also buy a acryllic lense like this
.. and experiment spraying into just the individual cups to get different beam patterns. Say, leave the cup used when just running one XML smooth (spot), two XML's frosted (flood) and three XML's (two flood, one spot).
(And that MTBR light shootout was rubbish, by the way.... over expensive lights with laughably low outputs)0 -
Had my first night ride with 2 501b torches... Awesome! However, I would like to change the one on my head for something a) lighter and b) with the ability to move where its pointing... what would be recommended as a smaller, movable alternative for nice and cheap? that SSC-P7 thing?0
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In retrospect, this is probably the one to get in that range... do you concur?
MagicShine MJ-808E HA-III CREE XM-LT60 3-Mode 1000-Lumen LED Bike Light Set (4x18650)
http://dx.com/p/mj-808e-ha-iii-cree-xm- ... 8650-571000 -
adrenalinemunki wrote:In retrospect, this is probably the one to get in that range... do you concur?
MagicShine MJ-808E HA-III CREE XM-LT60 3-Mode 1000-Lumen LED Bike Light Set (4x18650)
http://dx.com/p/mj-808e-ha-iii-cree-xm- ... 8650-57100
Those things are pretty rubbish for head lights. Always found you can't angle the light far enough back so that it's always pointing down at your front wheel. A better option would of been to have bought this version of the 501 torch....0 -
Well, I'm perfectly open to that way of doing things... but do you stretch that thing over your helmet?? Really like the idea of splitting my 501b into two and keeping the main body in my bag and having an adjustable front bit, does such a product exist?0
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Quite strange to hear that. Some members of our local cycling club prefer to mount MagicShine MJ-808 on the helmet (instead of handlebar), and none of them ever had any troubles pointing the beam as desired...Ouija wrote:Those things are pretty rubbish for head lights. Always found you can't angle the light far enough back so that it's always pointing down at your front wheel.0 -
Concorde wrote:diy wrote:Optimum for an XM-L is about 1.8-2.4A as this is where it produces max output before the output starts to drop off.
I drove an MC-E to 4.5A the other day and it was very bright. About twice as bright as an old SSC p7 Magic shine. It lasted 10 mins.
There are a few examples on the Web of people taking XM-Ls to 5A as direct drive. Produces about 1300 lumen at this current, which given you can get 70% of that at less than half the current is not good.
So a light like this claims to give 4.4A, clearly a rubbish claim is it?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pellor-Bicycle-Outdoor-Sports-HeadLamp/dp/B007X8YFYY
It isn't claiming that ;-). The battery is 4400mah, which is the 'capacity' of the battery.0 -
Ouija wrote:Neal_ wrote:This looked quite good but got round to measuring the reflector size on the 3xT6 and it's approx 40mm diameter by 18mm deep, not found an OP one that would fit yet...
Also the splitter cable turned up and works with 2 battery packs :thumbsup:, got over 5 hours out of the light last night using just 1 of the 3 LED's which is fine for most riding then I can keep the full power 3 LED mode for downhill stuff.
Then buy a 10 pack of 41.5mm glass lenses for your torch and a can of glass frosting aerosol spray and have some fun experimenting (the spray can also be used on the reflector but it's better to experiment on disposable front lenses instead).
Could also buy a acryllic lense like this
.. and experiment spraying into just the individual cups to get different beam patterns. Say, leave the cup used when just running one XML smooth (spot), two XML's frosted (flood) and three XML's (two flood, one spot).
(And that MTBR light shootout was rubbish, by the way.... over expensive lights with laughably low outputs)
I have considered what you've suggested but decided to keep it simple and just bought some window privacy film (DC Fix Milky) from B&Q, the result should look like the below pic.
And yes the MTBR light shootout is all expensive stuff but people like beam shots 0 -
I do not get why people would spend 300-400 plus on a bike light when you can get all you can reasonably need for under £150....
The Fluxient range go up to 3,000 lumens for about £130 - new from ebay - and I got one - it's amazing.... some of my pics on another thread on here ...
Link >
viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12873665&p=17912662#p17912662
There are other lights now from China that have high ratings that may also be worth a look on ebay too, but I've not tried them and they take a while to arrive from China, so it seems.
3,000 lumens on the bars and a smaller head-light perhaps (for twisty trails) and you are sorted.. :!:Rocky Mountain Altitude 50 (+ upgrades.....!)0 -
supersonic wrote:Concorde wrote:diy wrote:Optimum for an XM-L is about 1.8-2.4A as this is where it produces max output before the output starts to drop off.
I drove an MC-E to 4.5A the other day and it was very bright. About twice as bright as an old SSC p7 Magic shine. It lasted 10 mins.
There are a few examples on the Web of people taking XM-Ls to 5A as direct drive. Produces about 1300 lumen at this current, which given you can get 70% of that at less than half the current is not good.
So a light like this claims to give 4.4A, clearly a rubbish claim is it?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pellor-Bicycle-Outdoor-Sports-HeadLamp/dp/B007X8YFYY
It isn't claiming that ;-). The battery is 4400mah, which is the 'capacity' of the battery.
Understood 0 -
Not been following this topic that closely but thought I'd post up about my cree 3x xm-l leds. Bought them from a UK supplier, used them at least on four night rides and the battery life is appalling :evil:
40 minutes tops on full and max an hour on just the one led, can't say I'm too chuffed tbh.0 -
What model of light? All you have said is the model of emitter. Far more to it than that.0
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RandG wrote:Not been following this topic that closely but thought I'd post up about my cree 3x xm-l leds. Bought them from a UK supplier, used them at least on four night rides and the battery life is appalling :evil:
40 minutes tops on full and max an hour on just the one led, can't say I'm too chuffed tbh.
Might want to scroll up the page a bit on the previous page then as we've been discussing why that type of light isn't spectacular.
3 XML's will gobble through your batteries three times quicker so it would make sense for the manufacturer to include them with two battery packs (either 4 cell or 6 cell "endurance" packs) and a splitter cable to join them together for longer running times.
Look on the bright side, you could of ended up spending hundreds of pounds on boutique lights that don't throw out as much light and also don't run for that long either. At least with these Chinese lights you end up learning the limitations of current lighting technology without a great big hole in your wallet. I don't think you'll find any light that throws out 3000 lumens of light that runs for more than an hour on just four 18650 cell batteries, even if you spend £500 upwards, which is the hard way to learn these things.0 -
RandG wrote:Not been following this topic that closely but thought I'd post up about my cree 3x xm-l leds. Bought them from a UK supplier, used them at least on four night rides and the battery life is appalling :evil:
40 minutes tops on full and max an hour on just the one led, can't say I'm too chuffed tbh.
I got that light from Lightmalls and as Ouija has said scroll back through the last few pages to see links to the splitter power cable to connect more than one battery to the light. The battery packs that come with these lights, and the cheap spare battery I also bought from Lightmalls, are pretty poor and have got nowhere near the stated capacity but I've got both batteries connect to the light now and it lasts over 5 hours in low mode (1 LED). I was out for 4 hours last night with it mostly in low with medium and high mode used for the gnarly stuff and it was fine. Low mode is plenty bright enough for most uphill and flat riding and the medium and high modes are stupidawesomebright so although the light is flawed I'm still happy with it.
My advice is to get one of those splitter cables and hook it up with a Magicshine MJ-6010 battery.0 -
Guys, what would I have to search for to find the gadget that splits a 501b so the body can be somewhere separate to the head? I've seen a few as part of a headband but thats no use with a bike helmet...0
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adrenalinemunki wrote:Guys, what would I have to search for to find the gadget that splits a 501b so the body can be somewhere separate to the head? I've seen a few as part of a headband but thats no use with a bike helmet...
Never seen them sold separately. I imagine you could simply remove them from the headband....
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OK ... its a lonnnngg thread this ... I've kept my eye on it over the weeks, and both sought and offered advice. The deals seem to keep getting better, so what I want advice / views on, is what is currently the best Magic-shine type bike light, single LED XML, with external battery pack currently available?
Its for my son (I'm always having to lend him my second light these days ... and I do quite like having two to myself!). Needs to be around £30, ideally UK seller / delivery from UK; ideally orange peel lens (my second light, which has a mirror finish is to spotty), decent battery life (ie rated to 3 hours on full power).
Not asking anyone to do my research for me ... but opinions or personal experience of lights that offer 50 000 Lumens and last 4 hours, for £25 are most welcome ...!!
8)0 -
kevinharley wrote:
Needs to be around £30, ideally UK seller / delivery from UK; ideally orange peel lens (my second light, which has a mirror finish is to spotty), decent battery life (ie rated to 3 hours on full power).
Doesn't exist......
Next....0 -
You can nearly get that... would just have to frost the lens, as above.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CREE-XML-XM-L ... 20c5013dc90 -
I have missed this frosted thing, what's the reason for frosted lens ??0
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To diffuse the light.0
