The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
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Yes I've tried quite a few, I keep coming back to the 501 mainly because its usually one of the cheapest. Has good balance of size to weight and I have lots of spare parts. I like the C8s too, but they are better for a 2 light set-up.
My most common mod is drilling the reflector out to get more of the led in the hole.
It would be good if someone would produce some twin cell (side/side) cheepo's with C8 sized head to give you better current over longer periods a bit like the fenix tk-45 but at a sensible price. Failing that some ultra compact (drop in and a lens) lights that can mount like those from lights on with a remote cell. Perhaps using the handlebars as a heat sink?0 -
blablablacksheep wrote:
Also, out of interest, the weight of those torches, (120g) not including batterys, might be a tad heavy to run with for 6 hours on my head, anyone got one on their helmet maybe could comment on this?
These are sub 70g 18650 XML-T6 torches:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fandyfire- ... 650-110277
It's a SMO, but they're floody as hell (in this host-type) at any rate - With a TF Flame in it you're looking at about ~ 110g overall. (Think there's a lesser driven T6 OP version aswell - plenty of choice). Headtorches-wise, I run two Ultrafire C3's (XRE Q5) on my Road-helmet - 33g each without batts - with batts, about 53-60g each (14500 or Nihm AA). You can also get an XPG R5 Ultrafire C3 - it's floodier and slightly ''brighter'' (re. floody illumination) than the Q5 version. As ever, take spare batterires with you on your rides/runs - (I run a 3 x XML-T6 torch setup (two 502b's and a C8 XML-T6) on my road bike, and carry 3 spare 18650's in addition to some spare Vapetech 2900 maHs).0 -
blablablacksheep wrote:suggestions?(not sure if a XML style like my T6 on my bike be a good type due to small spot beam)
It depends on the host - a T6 emitter in a small diamter/shallow head with an OP reflector will give you a massive floody wall of light - conversely, a T6 emitter in a big diameter/deep head with a SMO will give you much more spotty throw.0 -
diy wrote:It would be good if someone would produce some twin cell (side/side) cheepo's with C8 sized head to give you better current over longer periods a bit like the fenix tk-45 but at a sensible price.
I think you mean a Fenix TK-35 as the 45 is a triple headed xp-g but someone does make what you are looking for. Check this out http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S020017 for about £23ish it looks awesome and no flashing modes unless you choose them by pressing switch for over 2 seconds.
I know in the past KD had some probs with slow shipping but my last order with them took 3 weeks and that included the Christmas week.0 -
Or one of these:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fandyfire- ... 8650-91136
Three useful modes, and the high setting is truly awesome!0 -
supersonic wrote:Or one of these:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fandyfire- ... 8650-91136
Three useful modes, and the high setting is truly awesome!
I remember the beamshots you posted before and the high setting does look truly awesome but surely running 3 xm-l's with only 2 batteries will give a lower run time that a single xm-l and a single battery? This is the only reason I would not buy one.
Whereas a single xm-l with 2 batteries should run for twice as long especially as the TK-35 is current regulated and hopefully the clone is too?0 -
I got one of the Fandyfires above and yes, as Super said, it was too long and bulky when on the bars. So I set about it with the Araldite and my soldering iron:
Then with the purchase of a 4 x 18650 battery pack, a charger, a Magicshine battery bag, Magicshine O-rings & a decent handlebar Clamp from Halfords I've turned it into this:
Life is well over 2 hours and the light output is stunning (as per Super's beam shots).
Total cost, including the torch = £66!!0 -
That is friggin amazing - well done. my only enhancement would be to go with a pack with removable cells.0
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night_porter wrote:Check this out http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S020017 for about £23ish it looks awesome and no flashing modes unless you choose them by pressing switch for over 2 seconds.
Pity about the driver 1.8A not really worth the bother of dual cell. But yes that is what I was thinking of.0 -
More than friggin amazing.....why didn't I think of that. I have the skyray 3x xml.....what a perfect mod for it. Please PM me with any further details of this mod so I can get this done with mine before the lighter nights arrive. WELL DONEProutster wrote:I got one of the Fandyfires above and yes, as Super said, it was too long and bulky when on the bars. So I set about it with the Araldite and my soldering iron:
Then with the purchase of a 4 x 18650 battery pack, a charger, a Magicshine battery bag, Magicshine O-rings & a decent handlebar Clamp from Halfords I've turned it into this:
Life is well over 2 hours and the light output is stunning (as per Super's beam shots).
Total cost, including the torch = £66!!kendoddsdadsdogsdead0 -
Im currently working on something similar with my trusfire 3t6. Im going to use one of the remote pressure switch tailcaps to allow control of modes from the grip and avoid needing to drill/make holes in the torch to connect the power supply.0
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scoobywrx wrote:More than friggin amazing.....why didn't I think of that. I have the skyray 3x xml.....what a perfect mod for it. Please PM me with any further details of this mod so I can get this done with mine before the lighter nights arrive. WELL DONE
YGM0 -
How are you going to connect the batteries to the pressure switch. Will you be using one of the 18650 batterycase holders for four batts.?leaflite wrote:Im currently working on something similar with my trusfire 3t6. Im going to use one of the remote pressure switch tailcaps to allow control of modes from the grip and avoid needing to drill/make holes in the torch to connect the power supply.kendoddsdadsdogsdead0 -
Im going to cut one of the wires between the tailcap and the switch, and solder the battery wires to it. I haven't decided whether to stick with 2 cells or go for 4 as the route I usually do at night isnt that long.0
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Some great work there, just got to sort mine! Got the battery pack and charger, just need to get my modding hands out!0
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I'm not the most handy of people and my biggest worry was burning myself with the soldering iron, so if I can do it - anyone can!!supersonic wrote:Some great work there, just got to sort mine! Got the battery pack and charger, just need to get my modding hands out!0 -
Mettan wrote:blablablacksheep wrote:
Also, out of interest, the weight of those torches, (120g) not including batterys, might be a tad heavy to run with for 6 hours on my head, anyone got one on their helmet maybe could comment on this?
These are sub 70g 18650 XML-T6 torches:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fandyfire- ... 650-110277
It's a SMO, but they're floody as hell (in this host-type) at any rate - With a TF Flame in it you're looking at about ~ 110g overall. (Think there's a lesser driven T6 OP version aswell - plenty of choice). Headtorches-wise, I run two Ultrafire C3's (XRE Q5) on my Road-helmet - 33g each without batts - with batts, about 53-60g each (14500 or Nihm AA). You can also get an XPG R5 Ultrafire C3 - it's floodier and slightly ''brighter'' (re. floody illumination) than the Q5 version. As ever, take spare batterires with you on your rides/runs - (I run a 3 x XML-T6 torch setup (two 502b's and a C8 XML-T6) on my road bike, and carry 3 spare 18650's in addition to some spare Vapetech 2900 maHs).
Thanks for the advice, though some of it went over my head as i not that clued up on the "tech" side of things with torches today as i used to be. :P
If the torch you linked to is "floody" ie more than my Bike light T6 Cree XML then that would be perfect, as the bike light i have would be too spotty for running.
What is the differance then between the linked torch and the XPG R5 C3 then? as you said that one is brighter and more floody.(ofc with all these torches i would get some decent batteries ie not the ones the come with)London2Brighton Challange 100k!
http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners0 -
I don't understand why you don't just get the Petzl like the one you linked to? You will be running not riding a bike, you will be on roads not offroad, you will have someone next to you who will also have a light. The sort of lights suggested on here are for something completely different than what you need if for, the people here know what they need for riding and it doesn't seem to be the same as your need.
Google the name and you might even get it cheaper.
The torches suggested here do not come with batteries and unless you choose one with AA's or AAA's then you will probably need to buy a charger and special batteries as well.
Ebay has plenty of cheap torches than run off of suitable batteries but if you have read reveiws that tell you others are happy with their setup for the same type of activity that you are going to do then go with that.
If you want to use the headlamp for biking afterwards then you need to read further through this thread and fully understand your needs and which would be the best compromise(s) for you.0 -
night porter i dont think you relise what running in the dark is like to be honest.
I never said the running i am doing is on the roads from what i know about the event that i am doing and from the runs i have done, i will need a torch which will give out the same light as the ones i use on my bike, but more flood rather than spot.(a small light is ok for road running with road lights on, but anything along a country road it is near 100% darkness)
I only linked to the Petzi as it had lots of reviews done by running mags, but i know from bike mags ie bike light reviews, that they tend to stay away from dx style lights as they not made by well known companies ie exposure ect, so would guess the same goes with running mag reviews on their lights.London2Brighton Challange 100k!
http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners0 -
As before, the Petzl is not very good. 60 lumens in quite a tight beam just doesn't cut it for running. And the price for it is disturbing!0
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As before, make one and stop being a girl
Same setup as these stubbies being discussed just strip the stubby to the bare drop in only. 0 -
What would you say is an average lumen count?
When im out its fairly light but starts to turn to dusk when i head down a country lane not open to traffic so no lights to light the way then my return journey when dark is down another country road open to traffic...
and as im getting out more and more having to ride on pavement and stop every so often is a real nuisance.
So i need a light that will light up much of the road ahead on the closed lane but not dazzle drivers on the open lane and also has to be a good price... but there is just so much out there its hard to choose.
Wat would you go for?0 -
viewtopic.php?f=20005&t=12660193PaulC7 wrote:What would you say is an average lumen count?
When im out its fairly light but starts to turn to dusk when i head down a country lane not open to traffic so no lights to light the way then my return journey when dark is down another country road open to traffic...
and as im getting out more and more having to ride on pavement and stop every so often is a real nuisance.
So i need a light that will light up much of the road ahead on the closed lane but not dazzle drivers on the open lane and also has to be a good price... but there is just so much out there its hard to choose.
Wat would you go for?
The bit in red at the bottom.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
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Parktools0 -
Thats great and very reasonable indeed...being able to take it off and use it to see what im doing should i get a puncture in the dark on a country road for the second time would be so beneficial...
first time it happened took me 90 mins to fix and get going again.
How about rear lights... is there much difference when it comes to them?0 -
On my road bike for night riding I use a couple of 501bs (see my sig for links) attached to the bars pointed down. I run them on low mode sometimes on medium. That is approx. 90 Lumen on low 250-300 on medium. * 2. I use two simply to give me a greater light presence in traffic. I only need one, An XM-L on Medium (250-300 Lumen) is plenty of light for road use.
For light off road, in darker situations, I would say two is plenty. For more technical single track/ trail riding I go with 3-4. For longer enduros I go with up to 6, just to increase the run-time.
I only tend to go full beam on my lights when I am riding proper purpose built trails.
For the rear, on the road bike I use 2-3 mini smart cheapo lights which cost about £3 each. IMO its about lots of little flashy things to point out your outline. Off-road you only need one, just in case your mates can't see where you have gone.0 -
Can anyone recommend some good bar mounts? I have an Ultrafire Cree torch and it gets transfered between two bikes. I have a cheap mount on each, which I got from DX, but one of them just doesn't hold at all. I don't mind taping it up, but it turns into a right pain when you're moving it from bike to bike each day.0
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I like this mount:
http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/universal-bicycle-mount-for-gadgets-p-3418
Very cheap, from manafont so quicker delivery than DX, and is very sturdy. It holds my ~500g trustfire 3t6 nicely without modification, so it will definately be fine with a 501b or similar.
I have tried other mounts, such as this one http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/360-degree-adjustable-bike-flashlight-mount-25mm30mm-p-6186. The first one is far better.0 -
Cheers Leaf, that looks just the ticket. Te other one looks very similar (if not the same) to the ones I have, and the way it clips up just lacks a little sturdiness and refuses to lock at all on one of them.
Are Manafont still based in Hong Kong?0 -
Yep, Manafont are still in HK as are Lightmalls.
I quite like the look of this although it doesn't allow horizontal adjustment and would need some inner tube or similar for grip and to stop scratches
EDIT: doesn't look like it'll work0 -
I dont get that one - surely the light and bars need to be a 90degrees to each other and here they are inline - with no obvious way for that to be set properly?Neal_ wrote:Yep, Manafont are still in HK as are Lightmalls.
I quite like the look of this although it doesn't allow horizontal adjustment and would need some inner tube or similar for grip and to stop scratches > http://www.lightmalls.com/2-75-practica ... cycl-black0
