Boardman CX Owners Thread

newtonuk

bigmul wrote:

You probably could use it again so long as you tape it when finishing the wrap, but I used some new gel tape, feels much nicer!

Thank you!

tincaman

newtonuk wrote:

Has anybody ventured into removing the bar tape that the 2014 Team model is supplied with? Before I try to remove the "interrupter" brake levers, I'd like to know if I'm facing self adhesive tape or if it's re-wrappable.

Every new bike I have had including a couple of Boardmans, the tape is always wrecked when removing

fret

michaelede wrote:

fret wrote:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/velox-rim-tape-cloth/rp-prod426
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/s?q=rim+tape

Thanks for trying to help Fret but which one? I assume the 19mm one as the 16mm is too narrow? (I am assuming the 18 in 18-622 refers to the width of the rim being 18mm internally?)

The 19mm one. it may come up the sides a bit, but that's not a problem.
Also, put some insulating tape around the wheel first as it helps the rim tape stay in place, even the plastic stuff.

I removed the OEM tape from the bars carefully and then refitted. No problems really, but some of the adhesive did lift. Years ago we didn't have luxuries like self adhesive bar tape
For the price you may as well buy new.

michaelede

Thank you!

magnus4ever

Hi there,

I'm currently ruling out the right Size for me in order to buy a 2014 Boardman cx comp as soon as it is available on wiggle. As i'm german, i unfortunately can't take a ride to halfords.....

I'm 1.83m with an inseam of 85cm. Or 6' with an 33.5" inseam.
I already determined that I'm most comfortable with a 56cm top tube and a ~100mm stem.
This would end up in a size M cx comp (555mm toptube), but unfortunately crank length and handlebar size is more fitting on the L size. (I don't think i'd be comfy with a 420mm wide handlebar, as my shoulder width is roughly 450)

Is there anyone with similar size as myself that can help me in my decision? Question is whether to go with M and deal with cranks and handlebar or to buy an L and swap the stem for a 80-90ish one which would be easy.

Thanks already for your help

Benjamin

arthur_scrimshaw

I'm the same size as you and opted for a large, the medium was too small. I've fitted a slightly shorter stem (110mm) my bike is a 2113 model, not sure if they have changed the geometry?

newtonuk

I'm 5' 11" and found the M too short. The L measured similar to my Cannondale but the SRAM shifters felt longer on the hoods. I'm happy with the L now, but it did feel long for a good while.

upsfon

magnus4ever wrote:

I'm 1.83m with an inseam of 85cm. Or 6' with an 33.5" inseam.
I already determined that I'm most comfortable with a 56cm top tube and a ~100mm stem.
This would end up in a size M cx comp (555mm toptube), but unfortunately crank length and handlebar size is more fitting on the L size. (I don't think i'd be comfy with a 420mm wide handlebar, as my shoulder width is roughly 450)
Benjamin

Hi,
I have similar parameters: 181 cm height and 84 cm inseam. I went for CX PRO 2013 in M size. The fit is perfect!
Don't get into a trap with Wiggle advice on sizing: L will be too long for you!
A general rule: if you are on the border of 2 sizes (like you and me), go for a smaller frame. You can always swap a stem for a bit longer one, if you may want to extend your sitting position. But you can't easily swap your frame for 1 size smaller
Going for longer stems, e.g. from 100 mm to 120 or even 130, is more preferrable than vice versa, e.g. to 80 or 90 mm, from a bike riding stability and responsiveness point of you...
The 172.5 cm cranks and 420 mm handlebars will be absolutely OK for you, don't worry.
I hope this helps.

fret

Good points. The CX frame does have a long top tube.
Mark Cavendish is riding a 49cm frame this year, smaller than usual and could be stiffer too.
I've ridden as small as 51cm frames and just extended the seat tube and stem to suit. 280 miles in 3 days with no aches either. A shorter crank rather than a longer one is also better.

I rode the Planet X to work today as it was dry and it feels much quicker in steering due to the shorter wheelbase, despite having CX tyres still fitted.

arthur_scrimshaw

Well just off for a short ride as been off the bike for over a week and can't sit here with all this sunshine! Chance to check out everything is working and bed in all the new stuff. Had to strip down my rear brake in the end, I think one of the ball bearings had come out of its location which was causing the actuator pad not to seat correctly. The whole calliper was gunked up with brake dust so thorough clean out and greased all the bits that are supposed to be! Got to say the SRAM service PDF was next to useless, supposed to cover the bb5 and 7 but only really related to the 7 so did it all by instinct and bizarrely it seems to have worked.

magnus4ever

Thx for your tips so far...

i might add that i want to use this bike more as a commuter/tourer rather than a full-time sports-cx-bike.
So i guess i'm better off with a more upright position. If the M-Size might be a little short i can still opt for a 120-130mm stem which complements to the main purpose of the bike.

newtonuk

Back again for more advice, this time on the BB5 calipers. When braking, my front BB5 (and the one of the previous bike) sounds like a bag of spanners as my speed slows down, just before I come to a stop. It's almost as though, and I don't know how these things work, there is a ball bearing(s) (BB) that is/are grinding around without any grease, but I'm not sure that this could be the case as the pads etc. aren't revolving, only the rotor.

Anybody have any thoughts?

arthur_scrimshaw

it's probably the pads, the ball bearings in the brake are simply the actuators for the braking action. They don't rotate as in a conventional bearing but are held captive in three ramped grooves and as you apply the brake they move along the ramp which forces the pad inwards against the rotor. I'd check your pads first and make sure the rotor isn't being forced against the calliper.

fret

Mine are loud as well. The pads DO move a bit in the calipers and the noise is amplified by the forks and magic fairies with amplifiers.

newtonuk

fret wrote:

Mine are loud as well. The pads DO move a bit in the calipers and the noise is amplified by the forks and magic fairies with amplifiers.

I can't find a "Like" button so I'll quote it instead

arthur_scrimshaw

Well a lovely ride, rivers still running high though

Russvphoto

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

Well a lovely ride, rivers still running high though

River Lavant, on one of my regular rides.

arthur_scrimshaw

Russvphoto wrote:

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

Well a lovely ride, rivers still running high though

River Lavant, on one of my regular rides.

Well spotted!

tincaman

My CX is now 2 1/2 years old and maybe time to comment on a few of the upgrades.

The R/H SRAM Rival shifter broke internally on my other bike about a year ago and a replacement was well over £200 at the time. It turned out to be a common problem and even trying to find a second hand R/H shifter proved fruitless. So I ended up changing over to Shimano 105.

I liked the Shimano system so much I decided to change the CX over to it as well. Once the APEX was sold and the 105 shifters and rear mech purchased the total cost to change overall worked out at £40. The APEX shifters fetched a very good price on Ebay.

@ures so far with no tyre cuts also. My commute is mainly countryside so apart from potholes the roads are fairly good.

I changed the wheelset to the Kinesis CXDisc in January so its early days yet, but apart from the 500g saving it does change the feel of the bike. My 28mile round commutes comes in at 2800 feet of climbing so any weight saving is great, it certainly does change how the bike feels on the hills. One of the rear cartridge bearings failed early but but I easily replaced that at a cost of £6, it wasn't worth returning the wheel back to the online Retailer for them to sort out.

I have also changed the BB5 brakes to BB7 about 18months ago, that was worth it just for the ease of setting them up, I was forever having to adjust the BB5's. Braking power was about the same. I have just replaced the front BB7 for a TRP HyRd. Very easy to set up and now I shouldn't have to adjust it again until the pads wear out due to the hydraulic pad centering. Braking power at the front has increased with less force required on the levers also, also very good modulation. I have always favored the interrupter levers for the big downhill sections because they generate more power for less effort, but with the HyRd fitted I know feel they could finally be removed as the shifter braking is very much improved.

Lighting is taken care of with a Solarstorm X2 with a battery pack installed in the front bottle cage, this battery pack is ABS with removable 18650 batteries.
Rears are a Magicshine MJ818 coupled with a custom made 2 cell 18650 pack mounted behind the downtube, a Smart Lunar R2 and a Fibreflare strapped to rear of my helmet

Russvphoto

Was in Halfords yesterday waiting to view a medium frame & watching the "mechanic" change a rear wheel tube for another customer, after fitting the tube he was struggling to get the wheel in with the derailleur, not knowing where the chain should go. After a few minutes of wiggling and pacing up and down I suggested that I do it for him, the look of relief on his face was amazing. Are they trained?
Took away a cx team medium in the box, i wasn't going to let him near it. Due to a couple of scratches he let me have it for £450 with the British cycling discount.
Anyone looking for a Large CX Team 2013 with 120km excellent condition contact me.

newtonuk

Nice write-up Tincaman.

arthur_scrimshaw

newtonuk wrote:

Nice write-up Tincaman.

I've just swapped the Apex on mine for 105 and enjoying the experience much more. I've noticed I'm changing gear more often! After running various tyres on the bike including Marathon plus (impregnable but sucked the life out of the ride) to Pasellas which were light and lovely but as tough as paper, I've settled on Vittoria Randonneur Pro 2 in a 32. They come up small, more like a 30, are folding so quite light and are comfortable with good resistance to the p fairy. I've ditched the interrupter levers and braking with the 105 levers is fine so far. Other small changes, fitted a 10mm shorter stem I had kicking around and a Charge Spoon after the original saddle broke. i use the bike for bad weather, commuting and Audax and so have fitted a Carradice Super C Audax saddlebag and support. I run two back lights, main one is a PDW Radbot hanging off the bag and fitted a PDW fenderbot in place of the reflector on the SKS Chromoplastic rear mudguard. Both lights have reflectors built in so no loss of visibility. Up front I have tried a few different lights, a few Chinese specials which are great but a bit dazzling for oncoming traffic and have now got an Exposure Strada mk5 with a remote, this is awesome!

meanredspider

From my pretty brief experience with the CX (having started this thread back in the day), I'd say Tincaman has done pretty much exactly what I'd have done if I still had the bike. 105 is so much nicer to use, I use HyRd on my Volagi (I only got so far as to swap to BB7 on my CX) and the wheels were heavy. I also swapped the saddle too.

arthur_scrimshaw

meanredspider wrote:

From my pretty brief experience with the CX (having started this thread back in the day), I'd say Tincaman has done pretty much exactly what I'd have done if I still had the bike. 105 is so much nicer to use, I use HyRd on my Volagi (I only got so far as to swap to BB7 on my CX) and the wheels were heavy. I also swapped the saddle too.

It's been a very popular thread, given it's a one bike subject! And thirded or whatever regarding the 105, totally different experience to Apex.

essex-commuter

Yep same here. Waited for rear wheel to wear out (pulled spoke) before changing though! Still on original hubs (maintained at regular intervals), just stuck a new Mavic rim on.

Now running 105, BB7's and a Charge Spoon on top.

Can't see the frame for mud and grime but drivetrain gets looked after weekly.

Running a Durano up front and a Marathon Plus on the rear, have been using this set up for many years now. Not the best of rides but trouble free.

Tortec Velocity rack, SKS full guards and an Ortlieb front roller pannier completes the picture.

LiveGiantly

I am a Giant person with no intention of purchasing a Boardman CX BUT I enjoy reading this thread....

essex-commuter

LiveGiantly wrote:

I am a Giant person with no intention of purchasing a Boardman CX BUT I enjoy reading this thread....

The frames do come up large so you shouldn't rule them out.

fret

It seems to me that many here have done VERY similar things to their bikes over the original supplied item.

The jury is still out on changing from the SRAM Red/Force groupset to 105 or even Ultegra. I think I would actually get quite a good price for it though. The action on Sram is superb for off road and winter use when you have thick gloves on, but then I've been riding for years with Shimano before that anyway.
Apart from that, the only thing I may change is the brakes now.

newtonuk

essex-commuter wrote:

LiveGiantly wrote:

I am a Giant person with no intention of purchasing a Boardman CX BUT I enjoy reading this thread....

The frames do come up large so you shouldn't rule them out.

LiveGiantly

essex-commuter wrote:

LiveGiantly wrote:

I am a Giant person with no intention of purchasing a Boardman CX BUT I enjoy reading this thread....

The frames do come up large so you shouldn't rule them out.

**holds Giant even closer**