Boardman CX Owners Thread

arthur_scrimshaw

essex-commuter wrote:

Bubaloo wrote:

apreading wrote:

Sounds to me (although I am not sure from the way you phrased it) that you got what is called a pinch puncture, which is where you take a big impact at low pressure and as the inner tube gets squashed it punctures against the rim? Less likely to happen with higher volume tyres but if it does happen, suggests that you need higher pressure or to be more gentle with the bumps!

The hole was so close to the center to the inner tube on the rim side I can't see how it would have gotten pinched. the hole was close to the presta valve (within 3 spokes) so that when I fitted it back on the rim the spoke hole just looked like the culprit.

Any idea about repairing these inners with a standard repair kit or is my kit/teqhnique duff?

Replace the inferior rim tape with Velox tape, that should solve the problem.

Thought I might as well do this when the new tyres arrive, me being very lazy and Marathons being a pig to get on and off, do you know what width tape I need, they do 13mm, 17mm, 19mm or 22mm. I'm guessing it's 17 or 19?? :?

arthur_scrimshaw

Bubaloo wrote:

Any idea of the correct diameter? i've seen 10, 17 and 22mm. Guess at 17?

Ha - great minds and all that!!

apreading

Think its an 18mm rim, so presumably you are correct at 17.

arthur_scrimshaw

apreading wrote:

Think its an 18mm rim, so presumably you are correct at 17.

Yes 17mm according to the Ritchey website.

Bubaloo

[/quote]Yes 17mm according to the Ritchey website.[/quote]

Grand. Any idea as to why the patch didn't hold on the repair job other than ineptitude?

arthur_scrimshaw

Bubaloo wrote:

Yes 17mm according to the Ritchey website.[/quote]

Grand. Any idea as to why the patch didn't hold on the repair job other than ineptitude?[/quote]

Hard to say, area around the puncture needs to be prepared first by roughing up with emery or similar, make sure no oil or grease in the area. Check glue is still ok (it goes off) smear glue thinly over an area larger than the patch. Allow to dry so it becomes just tacky, firmly apply patch ensuring edges are pushed down. Apply chalk to the area to stop it sticking to the tyre if you intend to use it straight away. You can shove the tube straight back in the tyre but I leave mine 24 hours before using again.
If the patches are self adhesive, all of the above applies except applying the glue, chalk and waiting!

fret

The OEM rim tape is rubbish. Many on here have had punctures as it does not cover the spoke holes correctly, myself included. It moves when you inflate the tyres leaving the spoke holes exposed. New tape fitted = no punctures
Offset spokes are because of the almost flat profile of the spokes on the R?H side of the rear wheel because of the larger width 10sp ratios, or so I once read. Who knows?

And lo, we talketh about tyres and punctures. And on the 5th day the Lord Evil of Flint did indeed place an arrow shaped flint the size of Wales in the path of the Fretmobile and verily it punctured the rear. :evil:
1st puncture (apart from the rim tape ones) since November and the first in the 23mm Gatorskins in a year as I had them on the old CX9.

As an aside, since I part commute on a towpath I was wondering about investing in 30mm CX tyres (previous post) and hoping these would fit my 25-35 full SKS mudguards.

See above. I have SKS P35's and the OEM 32mm tyres fit, so 30's should easily

fret

Burndust wrote:

ok so i took the bike in to my LBS....however i left without getting it serviced...they didnt have the tyres i wanted and said that those of you running 23s and 25s shouldnt be!??...they also proceeded to say i neededa new chain....after 1500 miles...now i'm not saying they dont know what there doing and are just trying get extra money out of me..ive ordered the 28 gatorskins so i'll take bike back next week as per the original plan...the shop does come highly reccomended though...but i left thinkin hmmmm

23's will fit the rims no problem, as too will 25's. There are many items on the internet about tyre sizes and many contradict each other. You run the slight risk of damaging the rim if the tyres are too narrow, but that's it really. If the rim is WAYYYYY to wide then the beads may not seat properly at really high pressures.
TBH a 25 is as narrow as you need to go as they roll almost as fast as a 23 and even the pro pelotons are using them. 20mm tyres seem to be a thing of the past now. Wider tyres are less prone to pinch punctures, but keep them inflated to 110-130psi and you'll be fine. I only use the 23's as they were fitted to my road bike for the winter and it seems a waste to leave them hanging in the shed. They will be replaced with 25's when the time comes.
I had 28's fitted and as a mediocre cyclist I couldn't really tell much difference in speed, but that could be just me.

I'm still on the OEM chain after around 3500 miles. It should last a year easily. Chains will always seem loose on a 10sp bike due to the very nature of derailleurs.

Burndust

i think they were just coming from it from the point of view, we will fit smaller tyres if you want but if anything goes wrong, your on your own, they were banging on about tyre blowouts, popping of the rims etc...so i just opted for the 28s which sounds about right....still a bit miffed about the chain though...although despite cleaning and oiling it regularly it does sound a bit rough sometimes so there may be something to it, might get them to remove the chicken levers while its in i just dont use them. regardless though a good service and setup can make a hell of a difference, and i reckon the gator 28's will be a marked improvement over the marathons... i dont envy them trying to get them off the rims...dont think i'm gonna bother with the wheels tbh, as i'm getting a road bike anyway, just need to decide which one now

arthur_scrimshaw

I bought a park tool chain checker, just a 'go/no go' gauge which was about £7 I replace when the 0.75 point is reached, I'm on my second chain, replaced the first one at about 4000km with regular cleaning and lube, but I do use it for work every day through all weather.

Burndust

well suppose there could be something to it...mines is used daily too and ive done 1700 miles so may well need replacing

fret

Daily use, ridden practically every day since November, 18 miles each day, plus the odd weekend and a couple off off road sportives, still within tolerance. Around 2500-3000 miles at a guess.
But then I have ridden motorcycles for years and I guess I may know a bit about how to look after chains. I'm not saying I am "right" as any chain can wear more than the one next to it, especially if they have switched manufacturers when building the bikes.

essex-commuter

BB30 bottom bracket bearings supplied and fitted: £23. Get in you LBS.

8,700 miles on the old BB, can't complain.

meanredspider

essex-commuter wrote:

BB30 bottom bracket bearings supplied and fitted: £23. Get in you LBS.

8,700 miles on the old BB, can't complain.

It was the 13 miles on the first BB that upset me

Can't argue with £23

fret

That's good going.
I have a creak from the front end and have narrowed it down to the front wheel moving as I have constantly battled to get the QR so it won't work loose.

lardboy

The QR shouldn't need to be particularly tight. You do risk damaging the forks or bearings if you're too heavy handed.

Are you sure it's not the stem or fork bung/top cap issues? I get a little creaking around there when I'm yanking on the bars.

fret

Done the stem 2 months ago, but it could have worked loose again I guess.
The wheel does still work loose though and I have 3 sets of skewers for 2 sets of wheels.

It really needs a service (even though it gets constant attention) as I've had it 7 months now so I shall treat it to new brake pads, chain and grease everything in the next few weeks.

Bubaloo

Moving the BB5 top brakes
I like to have a stretched out position sometimes and have some aerobars which would fit on the handlebar but would require the brakes to be shifted outside of their current position by maybe an inch or so, would this require a major fiddle in order to preserve the brake set up? At the moment it all looks very tidy with the squishy black tape and the brakes work OK as is. Would I be entering a world of pain and frustration if I were to start fiddling about with this?

essex-commuter

Bubaloo wrote:

Moving the BB5 top brakes
I like to have a stretched out position sometimes and have some aerobars which would fit on the handlebar but would require the brakes to be shifted outside of their current position by maybe an inch or so, would this require a major fiddle in order to preserve the brake set up? At the moment it all looks very tidy with the squishy black tape and the brakes work OK as is. Would I be entering a world of pain and frustration if I were to start fiddling about with this?

CX bike / Aero-bars = FAIL

Sorry.

Bubaloo

[/quote]

CX bike / Aero-bars = FAIL

Sorry.[/quote]

Any reason? With full guards, slick tyres and panniers/racks its days as a true CX bike are numbered, its more of a robust road bike now.

jimmypippa

essex-commuter wrote:

Bubaloo wrote:

Moving the BB5 top brakes
I like to have a stretched out position sometimes and have some aerobars which would fit on the handlebar but would require the brakes to be shifted outside of their current position by maybe an inch or so, would this require a major fiddle in order to preserve the brake set up? At the moment it all looks very tidy with the squishy black tape and the brakes work OK as is. Would I be entering a world of pain and frustration if I were to start fiddling about with this?

CX bike / Aero-bars = FAIL

Sorry.

I saw a really rum bike the other day.

knackered bike with downtube shifters and the seat far too low, clipless pedals and aerobars and the guy riding it with a huge backpacking rucsac.

fret

You can move the brakes a small amount with no problems. I did when I fitted my lights.
Aero bars. Great for 1-2 mph more speed, great for time trials and no traffic.
BUT.
Aero bars are not a good idea on a normal road bike. You wobble far too much and you need as much control as possible when traffic is around you

arthur_scrimshaw

Some observations ref the panaracer paselas, these replaced a pair of Marathon plus tyres and what a difference! The new tyres make the bike feel much more alive, I'm getting out of the saddle more as it accelerates better and the ride is more comfortable. The inevitable trade off will be more frequent fairy visits, but in this respect the M+ is hard to fault, 8000 km without a visit. The paselas were a doddle to get on. Weight wise the old M+ front tyre which had the least wear came in at 750gms, the pasela is 320gms which is what they quote in the specs.

Burndust

must say i'm looking forward to seeing what difference the gators are going to make over the m+ on mine...wont find out for a few weeks though in canada at the moment....so lookin forward to tryin it out when i get back

fret

I have an annoying click that is in just one position of the crank and it's not my knees for a change.
It's not constant and I noticed a click/creak when putting the bike away tonight as well, possibly the front wheel or headstock.
Looks like a strip down and greasing session this weekend to try and eliminate it.

fret

Service done, took about 2 hours I guess.
All head and BB bearings stripped and re-greased.
Brakes greased and pads still well within wear limits after 7 months' use and 2500-3000 miles.
Cables checked, chain checked, cleaned and lubed. Found some carbon fibre spacers in the shed for the steerer that were left over from a previous road bike, so fitted those whilst it was in bits.
Fasteners tweaked.
Seatpost removed, greased and refitted. (Don't re-grease if you have carbon fibre )

R/H BB30 bearing was very dirty. Seems a bit gritty even after stripping and re-greasing so I'll keep my eye (or ear) on it.

Now to save for a Force shifter and mech kit.

samsbike

I have a related question on tires. For those that have moved on from M+ plus tires (which I currently use) what have you moved onto?

Also how have these affected, ride, speed etc

thanks

arthur_scrimshaw

samsbike wrote:

I have a related question on tires. For those that have moved on from M+ plus tires (which I currently use) what have you moved onto?

Also how have these affected, ride, speed etc

thanks

see my post above, Panaracer paselas, 28c. Much nicer ride quality and lighter.

fret

I had Sammyslicks on my CX9. Quite fast on the road at a decent pressure and coped off-road quite well too.
It all depends upon what you want the tyre for. Most of the road or touring tyres are excellent for year round commuting duties and will cope with off-road shenanigans as well. Let's face it, we never had knobbly tyres when we rods in the woods and off road when we were young and we coped, even if the average road/touring treaded tyre filled up with mud.

Those M+ tyres are just plain scary at almost a kilo apiece, when the Panaracers and most tyres come in around 350-500g.
There is such an array of tyres out there to try I don't think any of us will ever agree on the same one.

fret

Early prognosis of creaks is good. The bike is deadly quiet once again with just a small rattle from the front light (I keep one on all year round).
I thought I had the r/h crank creak but it's my cleat/shoes once again.

Let's hope the creaks have now vanished for good.