Creaking Crank on Allez
flying_fish
Posts: 24
Hello all,
I picked up my new Allez 2 weeks ago, and have covered about 100 miles on it so far. When out on Sunday I noticed that the left crank creaks whenever I start putting power into it.
I have to go back to LBS in a few weeks for a service so will bring it up then, but wanted to know if something like this was common, or what could be wrong with it before going back. I want to make sure that if it is a real issue that I don’t get fobbed off with a default answer!
Thanks for you help.
I picked up my new Allez 2 weeks ago, and have covered about 100 miles on it so far. When out on Sunday I noticed that the left crank creaks whenever I start putting power into it.
I have to go back to LBS in a few weeks for a service so will bring it up then, but wanted to know if something like this was common, or what could be wrong with it before going back. I want to make sure that if it is a real issue that I don’t get fobbed off with a default answer!
Thanks for you help.
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Comments
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Could be it needs tightening up - in which case the sooner the better. But could also be something else eg seat mounts - worth checking these are secure.0
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ian_s wrote:Could be it needs tightening up - in which case the sooner the better. But could also be something else eg seat mounts - worth checking these are secure.
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I got a new Ribble 7005 with Tiagra group and I have the same issue. The drive train creaks when I put any kind of power on. It's been like it from the start and it seems to be getting worse, although it doesn't seem to have any actual bearing on the performance of the bike, nothing seems to be loose.
My dad's pretty good with bikes, although not so good with modern external bottom brackets etc but he couldn't work out what it was. I've heard other people mention creaking drive trains on here.... What could it be?
Ribble have said that they will take the bike back for a check over but it's just a pain - it will probably be with them for a couple of weeks or something, so I'll have to use one of my other bikes...Do not write below this line. Office use only.0 -
I've read a few reports of creaking cranks on HTII external bearing systems. General advice seems to be to remove the non drive side crank, clean and grease the interface with the spindle, and replace it. Make sure to preload the bearings by tightening the plasic end cap using the proper tool, then progressively tighten the pinch bolts to the recommended torque.
I have a 105 HTII crankset and it's never creaked. Still took it to bits to see how it worked though0 -
keef66 wrote:I've read a few reports of creaking cranks on HTII external bearing systems. General advice seems to be to remove the non drive side crank, clean and grease the interface with the spindle, and replace it. Make sure to preload the bearings by tightening the plasic end cap using the proper tool, then progressively tighten the pinch bolts to the recommended torque.
I have a 105 HTII crankset and it's never creaked. Still took it to bits to see how it worked though
I must admit, the creak does appear to come from the non drive side. May be this is it....Do not write below this line. Office use only.0 -
With creaks what i like to do it try and find roughly where the creak is comeing from. then take apart the simplest point for a creak to be comeing from and grease as needed and put back together, go for a ride and if it still creaks then you go the next easyest part to strip and rebuild. keep working like that till the creak stops.
Last one i has was when i put power on the left crank. TUned out to be the pedal needed its thread greasing to stop it.
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If the shop is worth its salt and you give them a call they will more than likely want you to bring the bike in asap. I noticed the slightest wobble from the rear wheel of my Allez less than a week after purchase and phoned the shop I purchased from and they said bring it in and they sorted it on the spot, despite being a busy saturday afternoon.Allez 16 - bad weather / turbo trainer
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I had one and it turned out to be a slightly loose pedal, removed during the first service greased and tightened up, and bingo no more power induced creaking0
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I am usually happy to take things apart myself, but as I have only had it for 2 weeks I dont really want to risk damaging it. Also I am assuming that the LBS should sort it out under warranty so I will call in on saturady and see what they say.
Thanks for your help.0 -
definately check the pedal first before anything else. i know a few people who have had bottom brackets replaced and then discovered it was the pedalBurning Fat Not Rubber
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Hollowtech 2 chainset problem. As said repeatedly (by me amongst others) remove LH crankarm, regrease splines, refit, snug down bearing cap, tighten pinchbolts-problem solved.
Only a mug would take it back to the shop- can do a better job yourself.0 -
I've got the opposite problem ie a cranking creak on an allez.
I took my bb off and greased and oiled. My allez was 2nd hand tho.The dissenter is every human being at those moments of his life when he resigns
momentarily from the herd and thinks for himself.0 -
sturmey wrote:Hollowtech 2 chainset problem. As said repeatedly (by me amongst others) remove LH crankarm, regrease splines, refit, snug down bearing cap, tighten pinchbolts-problem solved.
Only a mug would take it back to the shop- can do a better job yourself.
Only a mug would risk voiding their warranty when they can get something fixed for free.0 -
Only a mug would risk voiding their warranty when they can get something fixed for free
Only a mug would rely on bike shops to fix his/her bike.0 -
I was convinced that I had a BB creaking problem.
Following a bit of advice read here I simply torqued up the seatpost and seat clamp.
Voila! Gone.
Simple and will only take a couple of minutes. Give it a try to eliminate it.None of the above should be taken seriously, and certainly not personally.0 -
My creak is definitely coming from the drive train/bottom bracket somewhere.... Definitely not the seat post etcDo not write below this line. Office use only.0
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My creak is definitely coming from the drive train/bottom bracket somewhere.... Definitely not the seat post etc
This is so simple to fix ,I can assure you.
The thought of returning it to a bike shop, especially mailing the bike back to Ribble, is laughable.
If you want any further advice just ask.0 -
sturmey wrote:My creak is definitely coming from the drive train/bottom bracket somewhere.... Definitely not the seat post etc
This is so simple to fix ,I can assure you.
The thought of returning it to a bike shop, especially mailing the bike back to Ribble, is laughable.
If you want any further advice just ask.
Cheers. I'm pretty useless at bike maintanence... I know how to clean it, fix a puncture, adjust the brakes etc but not much more than that. Not an engineering type and have no interest in how things work. Far more interested in fitness, nutrition and how the human body works, the bike is just a means to and end for me. I have emailed some quotes from this thread to my dad to see if he can sort it out for me (he's my bike engineer). One question, on the LH crank arm there's a little sticker that says the cranks has to be tightened with a torque wrench to a certain number, is this absolutely necessary? I don't think I know anyone with a torque wrench!Do not write below this line. Office use only.0 -
Not strictly neccessary; The plastic tool used to tighten the end cap (which preloads the bearings) is designed to be finger tight. I just tightened my clamp bolts using a standard allen key and a bit of common sense. No creaking so far.0
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My left crank arm was creaking quite badly last night, so I tightened the bolts, one of which was not hand tight, regreased the pedal threads and all's well again.http://www.youtube.com/user/Eurobunneh - My Youtube channel.0
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Just follow the example of these guys .
You may get away without taking the crankarm off if you're worried about going that far. Just loosen the pinchbolts then tighten them progressively good and tight- you don't need to see the whites of your knuckles or anything daft like that. But you don't need a torque wrench- guarantee a lot of shop mechanics won't use one apart from maybe on carbon components.0 -
Thanks all. How do I get hold of the tool to tighten the end cap mentioned by keef66? Can someone post a picture or link to CRC or a place that sells it? Just in case I need to remove the crank arm.Do not write below this line. Office use only.0
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It's one of these:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... delID=3785
£2.99 and next day postage.0 -
That's where I got mine!0
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I took my crank apart, checked pedals, and in the end I put some special carbon grease on my seatpost and all was sorted!0
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Thanks all.... I'll take the bike to my dad and we'll work it out. I'll probably be riding home through some busy junction and the left crank arm will fall off.... Fingers crossed...Do not write below this line. Office use only.0
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You really need to learn how to fix stuff - bikes aren't technical.
Just a few allen keys generally cover most things.
Check pedals, chain rings, cranks are tight, BB shells are on tight, saddle, seat post.0 -
pedal/cleat/shoe junction can often be the source of creaks, which sound like they are coming from the cranks
don't know what pedals you have, but try pedalling unclipped for a minute and it see if it goes away0 -
Had exactly the same issue on my 09 Allez. Just as some of the other posters mentioned, took off the left arm, regreased and tightened - all ok now.0
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fossyant wrote:You really need to learn how to fix stuff - bikes aren't technical.
Just a few allen keys generally cover most things.
Check pedals, chain rings, cranks are tight, BB shells are on tight, saddle, seat post.
I know it's just so much easier to take it home to my dad. He knows a lot about older style bikes though, not that great with more modern stuff like this. I've got 4 bikes at the mo, 2 of them were built by my dad. Some people take their washing home to their mums, I take my bikes home to my dad... Next time I'll have to actually watch what he does when he fixes it!Do not write below this line. Office use only.0