Need new tyres.

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Comments

  • Infamous
    Infamous Posts: 1,130
    That was an ordeal.
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Infamous wrote:
    That was an ordeal.

    He's even paid me for the tyres already, I could do a runner with his money now :lol:
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  • Bhima
    Bhima Posts: 2,145
    Rubino Pros are not as puncture resistant as the standard Rubinos. They're also almost double the price too. They do have lower rolling resistance though, which will help you raise your average speed by about 0.1k (I know that's very important to you :lol:).

    The rolling resistance on Krylion tyres is awful in my opinion - that's the "sluggishness" you're experiencing. Of course, higher pressures increase rolling resistance too. A tyre is supposed to feel soft and the "fastest" pressure will be one which makes the bike's tyres feel permanently glued to the ground. You'll really notice an increase in speed if you go on poor surfaces and cobbles with lower pressures.

    Back to your original question - like I said, I am on thin low-rolling-resistance summer race tyres with some pretty severe cuts but they're bombproof over glass at 60 PSI. For 23mm tyres, as a general guide, if you're about 70-80kg, 70-85 PSI will mean you can ride with less chance of a puncture if you MUST ride on the tyres. You seem pretty desperate to ride on them, otherwise you wouldn't have started this thread...
  • More Bhima genius... You are aware that 60psi nearly half what you ought to be running your tyres at?
    "In many ways, my story was that of a raging, Christ-like figure who hauled himself off the cross, looked up at the Romans with blood in his eyes and said 'My turn, sock cookers'"

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  • freehub
    freehub Posts: 4,257
    edited December 2009
    Bhima? Have you ever tried Krylions? IMO They've got good RR. I prefer Krylions (my red ones at least) to Open Corsa's, I did'nt like the feeling of them, that's why I've only ever done 50 miles on em.
  • softlad
    softlad Posts: 3,513
    More Bhima genius... You are aware that 60psi nearly half what you ought to be running your tyres at?

    nobody is 'meant' to be running tyres at 120psi, if that's what you're implying. I might not go as low as 60psi, but I have run 25mm as low as 80 with no problems whatsoever. What Bhima is saying is actually pretty reasonable - although as I said, 60psi does sound low to me...
  • freehub
    freehub Posts: 4,257
    It's personal preference, some people like them hard, some people like them soft.
  • Bhima
    Bhima Posts: 2,145
    More Bhima genius... You are aware that 60psi nearly half what you ought to be running your tyres at?

    Not 26mm tyres. That's the minimum recommended on the sidewall.
  • Bhima
    Bhima Posts: 2,145
    freehub wrote:
    It's personal preference, some people like them hard, some people like them soft.

    But what about your average speed, that you love to constantly monitor? A softer tyre which keeps your body weight glued to the road will always give you faster speeds for a given power. At speeds above ~40k on a rough road, where you're (sometimes unconsciously) bouncing around a lot, i'm talking about a significant improvement in power transfer. I'm just informing you of the facts, not trying to change your opinion on what hardness you "like".
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Bhima wrote:
    But what about your average speed, that you love to constantly monitor? A softer tyre which keeps your body weight glued to the road will always give you faster speeds for a given power. At speeds above ~40k on a rough road, where you're (sometimes unconsciously) bouncing around a lot, i'm talking about a significant improvement in power transfer. I'm just informing you of the facts, not trying to change your opinion on what hardness you "like".

    Jesus Christ, Bhima is nearly talking sense.

    Although at lower pressures the tyre deforms more, and so there is more energy absorbed due to the deformation. However you do have to weigh that against retaining the pneumatic quality of tyres.
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  • paul64
    paul64 Posts: 278
    Of the suggested winter alternatives i.e.:

    Vittoria Rubino Pro
    Continental Gatorskin
    Schwalbe Marathon Plus
    Vittoria Open Pave
    etc.

    are any known to be easier to get on and of the rims or is that simply down to the rims?

    On my old CXP30 I could change Gatorskins with my fingers and pretty quickly, however this could have been down to the sheer number of times I had done it (making the Gatorskins more pliable along the way) as these were lightly ridden and on for probably 5 years.

    In contrast, my first flat on my Easton EA50SL and Rubino Pro this summer was a nightmare, I had to give up and call the 'team car' and then sort it out at home in slower time. When I say nightmare I actually chipped the end off of a Park tyre lever, despite being careful and not stupid with technique. I dread a flat in these lower winter temps, unless the Rubinos will ease up but these wheels sit on my preferred bike .

    If none of this is relevant and it's purely down to the rims then I'm ckufed and will think about some new winter wheels leaving the Eastons for warmer rides.

    (can't do the obvious thing and swap between wheels BTW as one is Shimano 9-speed and the other is SRAM 10-speed and compatability would require a cassette change, then STI upgrade, then rear mech etc. hence cheaper to change wheels if necessary). You rarely see much comment on the ease of changing tyres but whilst not glamorous it's up there with puncture resistance for me.

    Not intended to be a thread hijack but focus on another aspect of choosing between the reocmmendations.
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Eastons and Campag rims are known to be hard to get tyres on or off. I've not found a tyre yet that's easy to get on and off my Campag rims.
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