Is buying British really better?
Comments
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Northwind wrote:I saw Brant mentioned on one of the Ragley blogs that he's been testing rear facing seat clamps and doesn't reckon it actually makes any difference. Can't say I ever had any problems with mine on my old bike either.
I don't think it does either.0 -
supersonic
On some carbon frames it does make a difference however. My carbon roadie has the seat clamp 'backwards'. Not sure why though. I imagine to help spread the stress or something... Who knows.Boo-yah mofo
Sick to the power of rad
Fix it 'till it's broke0 -
For structural purposes on some designs maybe, but for mud: nah.0
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Didn't realise that's what you meant.. :oops:
Must read all the posts next time!Boo-yah mofo
Sick to the power of rad
Fix it 'till it's broke0 -
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one reason for carbon frames to have the split on the other side is so the seat post clamp is still the normal way round.
As a lot of carbon frame makers state that the clamp and seat tube split MUST be 180 degrees opposed.
To give a uniform application of clamping pressure."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Mmmmmm didnt help my mate who taken his S works Stumpjumper
to Glentress frame snapped on the part that holds the seat post.
New frame time0 -
grantway wrote:Mmmmmm didnt help my mate who taken his S works Stumpjumper
to Glentress frame snapped on the part that holds the seat post.
New frame time
I fail to get to point of that.
I have seen lots of broken bikes trail riding.
sometime the frames are over used or just poor. Things break."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Just that was where the frame fractured
Need to buy something well made and strong one would say0 -
many don't have crud catcher bosses and forward facing seat slots
I fail to see the point in the first, and the second, in testing, we've found is worse too. Let me expand.
Crud Catcher bosses require a hole/braze on fitting in a critical area on the bike - close to the headtube downtube joint. This is THE most stressed area on most bikes - the point that fails in a large majority of frame failures. Additionally, bolting on the Crudcatcher means it won't move on the frame in the event of a crash. To compromise both of those situations just to avoid having to use some rubber O rings (allowing tool-less removal), to limit some degree of frame scratching, seems a bit silly to me (that's to me, maybe not you, but to me).
Secondly - from what I've seen, a forward facing slot can causes a tearing type failure from stress propagation, or requires a longer extension above the top tube, and makes no difference at all to the amount of muck/goop that gets in your frame. The best way to guard against that, if it concerns you, is to make some sort of little boot out of inner tube, above and below the seatclamp. Though frankly how anything can get through the 0.1mm or less sliding fit, I've no idea.0