Hope Floating Rotor with Hayes HFX-9

2

Comments

  • Splasher
    Splasher Posts: 1,528
    The tabs that connect the braking surface to the rivets. On a normal rotor they are thin spokes.
    "Internet Forums - an amazing world where outright falsehoods become cyber-facts with a few witty key taps and a carefully placed emoticon."
  • jam15457
    jam15457 Posts: 55
    In that case I'm sure it doesn't wear the connecting spoke, and I've tried pushing the pads apart with the plastic wedge thing I got with them, and that hasnt worked. I'm gonna take it into my LBS (again!) and ask them about it.
    jam15457
  • whelieking27
    whelieking27 Posts: 341
    they will probably say to get a new rotor. the only other thing i could suggest, is to remove a really small amount of brake fluid, which will releive the pressure on the pistons, allowing you to push the pads out creating room for the rotor. but in all honesty the new rotor option will be less time consuming and cheaper.
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • jam15457
    jam15457 Posts: 55
    Yea, theyre proving to be a real hassle. I'll see what can be done, if not I mite sell them on eBay, cos I don't think the shop'll have them back cos they look like theyve been used. Just out of interest, how much do you think my Hayes' would fetch on Ebay bearing in mind that theyre only about 8-10 weeks old, and havent had much use?
    Thanks for all your help guys
    jam15457
  • whelieking27
    whelieking27 Posts: 341
    are they a pair , if so the average price is only about £45 as i have been looking for ages for my little brother. if it is only one, about £30.
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • jam15457
    jam15457 Posts: 55
    No, i've got 2. I've just looked on the CRC website (where I got them from) and seen the rotors that Hope designed for the Mono mini/m4. I've got the ones for the mono 6, are these thicker, cos if they are im gonna kick myself silly till my legs are black, blue and red. I read on a review that the ones meant for the mono 6 saying that they are slightly thicker than the ones meant fot the mini, so they might cure the rotor/pad rubbing issue. please could someone give me more info??
    jam15457
  • whelieking27
    whelieking27 Posts: 341
    the ones for the m6's are thicker as they are meant for downhill / freeride , whereas the mini is really for trials/ xc , so the thicker rotor (the m6 rotor) will provide sharper and more responsive braking, which is needed for dh/fr.
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • jam15457
    jam15457 Posts: 55
    I dont really do DH/FR, so if i fitted the Mono Mini ones would that cure the problem of the brakes always dragging?
    Thanks
    jam15457
  • whelieking27
    whelieking27 Posts: 341
    most probably, what sort of mini rotor is it , is it the floating type (like you have now ) or a normal type?
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • jam15457
    jam15457 Posts: 55
    You mean which one would I buy? Floating
    jam15457
  • whelieking27
    whelieking27 Posts: 341
    to be perfectly honest it would be a bit of a gamble buying floating. why not look at some similar rotors, the floating ones tend to be for more aggresive riding, personally i prefer the normal type as they weigh slightly less and they tend to be cheaper if you damage them.
    take a look at the hayes v8/ v7 rotors. i have just purchased a pair and the difference between them and normal rotors is phenomenal. also these are gauranteed to work with your calipers.
    the cheapest i have found these rotors is £24 each ,through work (halfords bikehut)
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • jam15457
    jam15457 Posts: 55
    Yeah but do you think that the thinner ones would fit if I did buy them? I'll be going into my LBS 2moro so I can ask there but any info you could provide would be helpful. BTW, did u have to train to become a mechanic at Bikehut, and if so for how long?
    jam15457[/url]
  • whelieking27
    whelieking27 Posts: 341
    edited January 2008
    i personally didn't , i don't beleive you require training. just background knowledge
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • whelieking27
    whelieking27 Posts: 341
    it really helps if you have a bit of background knowledge.eg. basic skillslike being able to repair v brakes, knowing what parts do what ,etc.
    by the sounds of things you have a fair bit of knowledge.

    things like building/ trueing wheels come with practise.
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • jam15457
    jam15457 Posts: 55
    Is wisbech near Peterborough, is that where you work? I live 30mins from Peterborough and 25mins from Oakham, about in the middle of the 2, my LBS is Rutland Cycling.
    jam15457
  • whelieking27
    whelieking27 Posts: 341
    edited January 2008
    your nearest store is probably the peterborough one. try going in and asking about a job.
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    jam15457 wrote:
    I took it to the shop and they did the screwdriver method, so now thats out ive attached the new rotor and discovered its the adaptor that attaches the caliper to the fork/frame thats rubbing, so i got 2 washers and am gonna put them between the hub and the fork/frame. Do you think this is an OK thing to do?
    thanks
    jam15457

    in a word NO as it puts every thing out of line. if you have to do anything get the adaptors machined.

    But in all honesty you have 2 options lose the new rotors as they are not compatable for many reasons or buy some suitable Hope brakes.

    If you want to chat use a medium suited for it ie MSN.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • whelieking27
    whelieking27 Posts: 341
    true, the washer will put everything out of line and will probably accelerate wear on the drop outs
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • jam15457
    jam15457 Posts: 55
    OK, I'll ask the shop to machine a bit off the mounts. @nicklouse: sorry.
    jam15457
  • Splasher
    Splasher Posts: 1,528
    Am I the only person wondering what's wrong with your original rotors?
    "Internet Forums - an amazing world where outright falsehoods become cyber-facts with a few witty key taps and a carefully placed emoticon."
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Lol, nope!
    GT ZASKAR CARBON TEAM

    VOODOO CANZO

    Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
  • jam15457
    jam15457 Posts: 55
    Nothing, I just felt like upgrading them. There isn't anything wrong with that is there?
  • Splasher
    Splasher Posts: 1,528
    Well upgrading is where you change a part to one that performs better in some way than the one you had. In the case of brakes that could be stops you better, weighs less, disperses heat better whatever.

    I think what you've done is best described as a downgrade. Put the old rotors back on and get out and ride.
    "Internet Forums - an amazing world where outright falsehoods become cyber-facts with a few witty key taps and a carefully placed emoticon."
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    Splasher
    agreed as the braking surface is smaller now the available power will be less.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Has anyone ever heated a bike rotor so much that it warps in normal use?
    GT ZASKAR CARBON TEAM

    VOODOO CANZO

    Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    yes. a Hope one.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • whelieking27
    whelieking27 Posts: 341
    yes, an old hayes hmx1 rotor.

    i have to say i agree about the fact you have reduced the braking surace. also you will probably find, as the brake / pads are not designed for use with such a rotor , the brake will go through pads twice as quick as if you were to use a normal rotor.
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • jam15457
    jam15457 Posts: 55
    By less braking area do you mean all the holes in the rotor? Because the standard Hayes rotor has just as much holey bits in it. And it should stop me better because its a bigger rotor than the old one.
    jam15457
  • whelieking27
    whelieking27 Posts: 341
    the thickness of the rotor and the amount of pad material that comes into contact with the rotor
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • jam15457
    jam15457 Posts: 55
    All of the pad contacts rhe rotor as far as Im able to tell, and the rotors just a bit thicker

Categories