Hope Floating Rotor with Hayes HFX-9

jam15457
jam15457 Posts: 55
edited January 2008 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi guys,
I'm new here and i want to as ka question. Have any of you ever tried Hope Floating Rotors with Hayes 9 brakes? I have bought some and have fitted them, but the rivet things that attach the floating bit to the spider in the middle rub on the caliper. Ist it OK if i just file the caliper to allow for the correct clearance or should I just return them and use my old rotors?
Thanks
jam15457
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Comments

  • to be perfectly honest it is probably best not to file the caliper as this can weaken the caliper and promote corrosion etc. use some old rotors or scour e-bay, you can pick up rotors for anything between 99p and £15 depending on what you are after. a2z are the best aftermarket wavey rotor at £13 each. :D
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • To file enough off I'd only have to file a couple of millimetres, maybe not even that off of the inside of the mounting blocks
    Thanks
    jam15457
  • Splasher
    Splasher Posts: 1,528
    Send them back.
    "Internet Forums - an amazing world where outright falsehoods become cyber-facts with a few witty key taps and a carefully placed emoticon."
  • Will the caliper be too weakened even if i just filed off a mill or so, it might be even less?
    Thanks
  • no , but it will promote corrosion and that will cause the caliper to weaken,
    you'd be better off either geting a new rotor or sending them back
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • OK. I'll try adjusting them again, see if that helps. If not I'll send em back.
    Cheers
  • If the caliper is aluminium, which it probably is, then the corrosion will simply create a protective layer preventing further corrosion. As far as taking off a mil or so, it shouldn't cause a problem. However, I would be weary of creating a weak point in the hydraulic chamber. Just shim the caliper out a bit until it clears the disc.
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    Couldn't you space them up a bit, or would you then lose the braking surface?
  • Actually that's not a bad one. But I do believe that the Hope brakes have a smaller surface. But, with a Moto rotor you'd be ok.
  • I think they are Aluminium, and I don't have to space them up, the rivet bits are hitting the inside of the caliper, so they have to move outwards. Can I do this by adjusting the brake, or do I have to file off some?
    Thanks for all the help so far
    jam15457
  • The only problem I can see is that then your pads may rub.
  • you cant adjust the caliper itself , only the pads. if you don't want to take the brake back file it but it realy could be a costly mistake. if i were you i'd buy a new rotor.
    did you buy the brake from a shop or second hand because if it was a shop they may be able to exchange the rotor for the hayes equivelent.
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • I managed to fix the rivet hitting the calipr problem, but now the pads grate a lot on the disc. I'm gonna take it into my LBS tomorrow, and ask them about it. Also, I rounded off the head of one of the other bolts on my bike, will they be able to get it out?
    Thanks
    jam15457
  • yes in my experience(halfords bikehut) it is a fairly straight forward thing to do.
    what sort of bolt is it?
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • Torx 25
  • we usualy first try tapping an old screwdriver into so the screwdriver gets stuck then usualy it undoes by that otherwise we drill it out and re-tap the thread
    hope this helps.
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • yeah, we (me and my dad: i'm 15) just tried the screwdriver method with a hacksaw, hammer and lots of loud noises. It didn't work, the bolt just looked too soft. is the what you do, just drill the bolt and re-tap it? I always wonderedhow you get out a rounded screw from when I first did it on an RC car.
    Thanks
    jam15457
  • if you don't have a tap just take it to your local bikehut or bikeshop and ask them to do it. . i know at work (bikehut) we have special extractor things for this purpose, but they are realy fiddly and its easier to drill it out and re-tap it.
    i'm only 16, the only way you learn is by experience
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • Awesome. I think i'll take it to Rutland Cycling tomorrow, itll probs be better for them to do it, but I'll ask if I can see what they do. Are you a mechanic at your bikehut?
    jam15457
  • whelieking27
    whelieking27 Posts: 341
    edited January 2008
    yes i am at halfords , its a great job. I advise you watch very carefully and if you are unsure why they do something , ask them , i'm sure they'll be happy to teach you how to do it and explain why they use the method they do.
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • i'm sure they'll let you see, they should be willing to show younger people their trade
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • Maybe I'm a little late, but try filing off two opposite edges and using pliers. (For the bolt)
  • what a great idea ! i've never actualy thought of that. :oops:, but you realy don't want to mess the bolt up too much as they may never be able to remove it.
    if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
  • Yeah, ive b*****ed up the bolt enough already, so i'll just take it into the shop
    cheers
    jam15457
  • Andy B
    Andy B Posts: 8,115
    Did you try pouring boiling water over the bolts before you started trying to remove them? It softens the threadlock & makes it a lot easier.

    You can also hammer a larger Torx bit into the bolt head if it's really knackered. Last resort is to carefully drill the bolt head till it collapses & then fold up the remnants of the bolt head & unscrew with pliers.
    2385861000_d125abe796_m.jpg
  • I took it to the shop and they did the screwdriver method, so now thats out ive attached the new rotor and discovered its the adaptor that attaches the caliper to the fork/frame thats rubbing, so i got 2 washers and am gonna put them between the hub and the fork/frame. Do you think this is an OK thing to do?
    thanks
    jam15457
  • Splasher
    Splasher Posts: 1,528
    Did you not ask them what they thought about running Hope rotors and Hayes discs in the shop?

    The simple fact is that HFX9s are bigger pads than Hope so you're braking surface is not designed to accomodate such big pads

    2204270006_4127893278.jpg

    The Hayes pad is about 18.0mm deep and the Hope 13.5mm.
    "Internet Forums - an amazing world where outright falsehoods become cyber-facts with a few witty key taps and a carefully placed emoticon."
  • What problems would that cause? The only reason its rubbing on the pads is because that rotor appears too thick for the gap in between the pads
    jam15457
  • Splasher
    Splasher Posts: 1,528
    It causes two problems. The first is that the caliper is much deeper and so fouls your rivets, the second is that the pads will overlap the braking surface and wear the connecting spoke, which is probably thick enough to cope on a floating rotor.

    The gap between the pads can be increased just by carefully prising them apart with a large flat thing like a large screwdriver.
    "Internet Forums - an amazing world where outright falsehoods become cyber-facts with a few witty key taps and a carefully placed emoticon."
  • It doesnt foul the rivets, but whats a connecting spoke?
    jam15457