My Bike build (Pictures)

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  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    gkerr4 wrote:
    you puttin the chainset together? - got any pics??

    Not on the bike, still haven't got the frame back, I was just trying to make sure I've got all the tools for the job - especially if I had to find a way of cutting an allen key or ordering that campag tool.

    I managed to get the torque to 35Nm, but I suppose it should be easier when the chainset is actually on the bike.
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  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    aracer wrote:
    I just used a junior hacksaw when I did mine. Don't go too fast to avoid heating it up and spoiling the heat treatment. Finished it off with a file to make it bit cleaner (since I used the cut end in the bolt, the other end of mine having a ball on!)

    I just tried to cut an allen key - the teeth on the saw just smoothed off and didn't make a dent on the allen key.
    Either your hacksaw blade is rubbish, or your allen key is a lot harder than mine (keys are a cheapish set from Halfords, but proper ball ended Chrome Vanadium, and seem to work fine without rounding). I think if the hacksaw hadn't worked I'd have got the Dremel out, but that would have heated it up rather a lot! Glad to see you've found a solution though.
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    aracer wrote:
    Either your hacksaw blade is rubbish, or your allen key is a lot harder than mine (keys are a cheapish set from Halfords,

    The allen key was from a set decent Roebuck ones, the hacksaw was about 99p though.

    So allen key of hardened steel and cheap hacksaw - probably wasn't a good idea.
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  • robbarker
    robbarker Posts: 1,367
    Try to make sure the hex socket is fully engaged int he bolt when you're applying high torque like this - a partial engagement is likely to result in a rounded hex bit or socket!
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    robbarker wrote:
    Try to make sure the hex socket is fully engaged int he bolt when you're applying high torque like this - a partial engagement is likely to result in a rounded hex bit or socket!

    I decided that the tolerances I had were too narrow too avoid what you mention, so I've got the UT tool ordered and on it's way.
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  • gkerr4
    gkerr4 Posts: 3,408
    Probably the best - I have ordered the UT tool too - it's only £7 and the cutting allen key thing sounded a faf....
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    Took 10 minutes - quite a good rate of pay for £7! Anyway I like the sense of satisfaction from making my own tools (have in the past made a puller to remove a stuck DT freehub body, lockring pin tools etc.)
  • gkerr4
    gkerr4 Posts: 3,408
    I see what you are saying - but I just couldn't see one of my rather cheap hacksaws cutting through my rather pricey allen key set - they seem pretty hard!
  • heavymental
    heavymental Posts: 2,091
    What you doing about taping those bars of yours Red? I've got some FSA K-Wings and have recently noticed that the idea is to tape the drops but leave the rest naked. I think that'll look a bit odd so I'd quite like to tape the whole bar but apparently as they are so wide on the tops, one length of tape won't do each side as per normal. I can't really see in your pics, they might not be as wide as mine.
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    What you doing about taping those bars of yours Red? I've got some FSA K-Wings and have recently noticed that the idea is to tape the drops but leave the rest naked. I think that'll look a bit odd so I'd quite like to tape the whole bar but apparently as they are so wide on the tops, one length of tape won't do each side as per normal. I can't really see in your pics, they might not be as wide as mine.

    My bars are 46cm (outside-to-outside) so the widest available. I wasn't planning on taping the tops - but there's nothing to hold the cable underneath the tops so I'm going to tape it all. I've got the fizik gel pads aswell to put on the drops and tops so need the tape for that aswell.

    I was worried that the tape wouldn't be long enough so I did a practice tape on sunday night - the fizik tape I've got easily has enough to go all the way along the tops.

    Of course it all depends on how much overlap you do, I overlap only about 1/3 of the tape (off the top of my head).
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  • heavymental
    heavymental Posts: 2,091
    Hmm, I don't think yours can be as wide as mine then (I mean the width of the bit where it says 'Cinelli' on yours). I think it would be a struggle to tape the whole bar with just one lot according to the discussions on other forums. I don't want to tape it with minimal overlap because I did that on my other bike (first ever tape job) and it developed gaps after a few rides. I'll tape it and see how far a roll goes before deciding I suppose.
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    No, I don't think mine are that wide, how wide are the FSAs?

    dsc00535oe6.jpg
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  • Man. I wish you'd get on with it RD. I dying to see the finished article... :)
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Man. I wish you'd get on with it RD. I dying to see the finished article... :)

    I'm still waiting to get the frame back from the LBS - tomorrow hopefully!
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  • heavymental
    heavymental Posts: 2,091
    The FSA are about the same actually. Maybe a mm or 2 under, I only measured them roughly though. The stuff I've read after googling "taping fsa k-wing" suggests its not a goer to tape it all but I guess maybe there's variation in how much tape you get in a pack? I dunno, just have to see how it goes and go from there when I get to the bar taping stage..
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    When I did my first taping job I was really worried that I'd run out of tape - but that was largely unfounded and there's normally more than enough tape in the boxes.

    I just taped mine again to see if I was doing it right. It's difficult when you're not actually sticking the tape down but I've managed it.

    dsc00537ck0.jpg

    Obviously I've still got to run cables and gel bits underneath the tape, but it'll be easier to pull the tape tight when I've got the sticky stuff exposed. I reckon there's enough there to be on the safe side.
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  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    The pic looks awful, and I've probably taped it up wrong - but I did it in a rush.
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  • heavymental
    heavymental Posts: 2,091
    Yeh, plenty of spare there by the look of it. Cheers for that Reddragon. Hopefully my Deda tape will do ok too.

    I must say I can tell you're loving your bike build mission. We're getting plenty of pics and posts! Its all good!
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    I must say I can tell you're loving your bike build mission. We're getting plenty of pics and posts! Its all good!

    Hopefully the proper build will start tomorrow night (and probably finish early Thursday morning meaning I'll be knackered for work - but happy that I've got a decent bike at last.)

    More Pics to Come Soon.....
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  • Mog Uk
    Mog Uk Posts: 964
    Going of that photo, If it was me personally I wouldn't tape the tops, looks much much better untaped....

    Of course that's just my opinion..
  • Harry B
    Harry B Posts: 1,239
    I must say I can tell you're loving your bike build mission. We're getting plenty of pics and posts! Its all good!

    Hopefully the proper build will start tomorrow night (and probably finish early Thursday morning meaning I'll be knackered for work - but happy that I've got a decent bike at last.)

    More Pics to Come Soon.....

    I exect to see more pics when I come into work tomorrow morning :) The finished article perhaps :?
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Mog Uk wrote:
    Going of that photo, If it was me personally I wouldn't tape the tops, looks much much better untaped....

    Of course that's just my opinion..

    I planned on not taping the tops, but there's nothing I can do to reliably hold the cables to the bars. I'd end up with wires going everywhere without the tape.
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  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    I've rung up the LBS and it should be done for 3pm today, I'll pick it up after work today and the build shall commence (at last)!
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