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Converting to a 1x11 geartrain

odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
edited April 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
I plan to convert my Anthem 2 2016 to a 1x11 geartrain.

Is the process as simple as just removing my Shimano SLX 24/38 chainrings, and fitting a Race Face 32T chain rIng to my existing SLX cranks? And then removing the front mech shifter and cables? My current cassette is a SHimano HG50 11x36. I read in an online guide that it is advisable to remove the 15 or 17 cog, and replace it with a 40t or 42t cog?

The rest of my current 2x10 drive train is:

Shifters Shimano SLX 20 speed
Front Derailleur Shimano Deore
Rear Derailleur Shimano SLX Shadow+
Brakes Shimano Deore 160mm
Brake Levers Shimano Deore 160mm
Cassette Shimano HG50 11x36
Chain KMC X10
Crankset Shimano SLX 24/38
Bottom Bracket Shimano PressFit

Do I need NEW shifters for the rear derailleur? And if I need a new shifter, I had a look on CRC for Shimano XT shifters, and I saw a lot of options:
Rear - I-Spec II -
Front - Bar Mount
Front - I-Spec B
Front - I-Spec II
Rear - Bar Mount
Rear - I-Spec B
Rear - I-Spec II
What the heck? What are all this options for a shifter?!

Will my existing Shimano SLX Shadow+ rear derailleur work? Dont know if its medium cage or long cage?

Many thanks
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Posts

  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,748
    You seem to have read many articles and got the information confused!

    To go to 1x11 from ten speed will need need shifter, rear mech, cassette and chain as well as the single specific (or better still narrow wide) chainring, none of the ten speed stuff will work for 1x11.

    To go 1x10 you can do by removing just the front shifting and fitting a chainring, if it's not narrow wide you will need a chain guide.

    The removing two sprockets and replacing with one is only if you are using 1x10 with an expander ring (otherwise you'd end up with 9 gears obviously), you can remove either one or better still both and replace with a 16t for better progression through the gears, but you have to start with an XT cassette.
  • odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
    The Rookie wrote:
    You seem to have read many articles and got the information confused!

    To go to 1x11 from ten speed will need need shifter, rear mech, cassette and chain as well as the single specific (or better still narrow wide) chainring, none of the ten speed stuff will work for 1x11.

    To go 1x10 you can do by removing just the front shifting and fitting a chainring, if it's not narrow wide you will need a chain guide.

    The removing two sprockets and replacing with one is only if you are using 1x10 with an expander ring (otherwise you'd end up with 9 gears obviously), you can remove either one or better still both and replace with a 16t for better progression through the gears, but you have to start with an XT cassette.

    Wow...

    Great reply.... thsnks...

    So, just to make sure I'm getting this right..

    I'm not fussed with 11 speed, so I'll go 1x10, alsoo to keep costs down.

    I'll order a race face narrow wide ring, 32t...remove my SLX crank arms and bolt them to the race face. Then just simply remove front shifter, front mech and cables?

    On CRC there are options for chainrings according to BCD, with 104mm bring the commonest, but I think the Shimano XT and SLX options are 96mm?

    Lastly, will I need to alter anything on the chain if I stay 1x10?

    Many thanks
  • ade555ade555 Posts: 216
    Have a look on superstar website for chain ring

    http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/s ... hainrings/
  • kirby700kirby700 Posts: 458
    Superstar chain rings are very good!
    Use 20eggs promo code for 20% off everything
    GIANT XTC 2.5
    BOARDMAN TEAM FS - NOW GONE
    NUKEPROOF MEGA TR 275 COMP
    YT INDUSTRIES CAPRA
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,748
    Most Shimano (except XTR) are 104, check out the Shimano tech docs for your specific crankset FC-Mxxx number will be stamped on the crank arm reverse.
  • odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
    So, can someone please confirm, before I pull the trigger:

    I'll get a compatible narrow-wide chain ring, from Superstar or Race Face

    Remove my exising double chainrings, bolt the new 32t Chainring to my existing SLX crank arms

    Remove front mech shifter and cables.

    Is that it?

    My current cassette is a Shimano HG50 11x36

    My current Rear Derailleur is a Shimano SLX Shadow+

    Will my reach mech and cassette be OK for 1x10 setup?

    Any change to my current KMC X10 chain?


    Many thanks
  • kirby700kirby700 Posts: 458
    Pretty much yes. When I converted mine I had an issue with centering the chain line but I blame my cranks. Just do it
    GIANT XTC 2.5
    BOARDMAN TEAM FS - NOW GONE
    NUKEPROOF MEGA TR 275 COMP
    YT INDUSTRIES CAPRA
  • odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
    kirby700 wrote:
    Pretty much yes. When I converted mine I had an issue with centering the chain line but I blame my cranks. Just do it

    Great, thanks

    Just as you were posting, I was checking out superstar website. It seems there are only 34t and 36t options.

    Considering I have a 11-36t cassette, which one would be a better one to order? I don't really climb much on my anthem?

    Thanks
  • jamskijamski Posts: 737
    odessouky wrote:
    kirby700 wrote:
    Pretty much yes. When I converted mine I had an issue with centering the chain line but I blame my cranks. Just do it

    Great, thanks

    Just as you were posting, I was checking out superstar website. It seems there are only 34t and 36t options.

    Considering I have a 11-36t cassette, which one would be a better one to order? I don't really climb much on my anthem?

    Thanks

    Personally 34t, but I couldn't get everywhere on that with the 36t on the back. Normally you get a 42t on the rear and a 32t up front. So with only a 36t on the rear I'd want a 32t max on the front. All depends how fit you are though.
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
    jamski wrote:
    odessouky wrote:
    kirby700 wrote:
    Pretty much yes. When I converted mine I had an issue with centering the chain line but I blame my cranks. Just do it

    Great, thanks

    Just as you were posting, I was checking out superstar website. It seems there are only 34t and 36t options.

    Considering I have a 11-36t cassette, which one would be a better one to order? I don't really climb much on my anthem?

    Thanks

    Personally 34t, but I couldn't get everywhere on that with the 36t on the back. Normally you get a 42t on the rear and a 32t up front. So with only a 36t on the rear I'd want a 32t max on the front. All depends how fit you are though.

    by 32t max, you mean, not to go lower than 32t, and higher would be better?

    I'm not very fit, so 34t, or even 36t would be safer?

    Thanks
  • odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
    The Rookie wrote:
    Most Shimano (except XTR) are 104, check out the Shimano tech docs for your specific crankset FC-Mxxx number will be stamped on the crank arm reverse.

    Just checked now, and I've got FC-M670/672/675/677 stamped on the back of my crankarm?

    Does that give a clue wether it is 104 or not?
  • jamskijamski Posts: 737
    odessouky wrote:
    jamski wrote:
    odessouky wrote:
    kirby700 wrote:
    Pretty much yes. When I converted mine I had an issue with centering the chain line but I blame my cranks. Just do it

    Great, thanks

    Just as you were posting, I was checking out superstar website. It seems there are only 34t and 36t options.

    Considering I have a 11-36t cassette, which one would be a better one to order? I don't really climb much on my anthem?

    Thanks

    Personally 34t, but I couldn't get everywhere on that with the 36t on the back. Normally you get a 42t on the rear and a 32t up front. So with only a 36t on the rear I'd want a 32t max on the front. All depends how fit you are though.

    by 32t max, you mean, not to go lower than 32t, and higher would be better?

    I'm not very fit, so 34t, or even 36t would be safer?

    Thanks

    No, smaller on the front is easier. Small front, large rear equalls easy. So 34t is harder than 32t. As for the correct size, take off a chainring and messier. Should take you 5 minutes.
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • kirby700kirby700 Posts: 458
    If your not very fit you'll need a 32, I do, and I'm fairly fit. If your normal rides are flat terrain you'll be ok with a 36. But as you seem to be asking a lot I'd guess not
    GIANT XTC 2.5
    BOARDMAN TEAM FS - NOW GONE
    NUKEPROOF MEGA TR 275 COMP
    YT INDUSTRIES CAPRA
  • odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
    kirby700 wrote:
    If your not very fit you'll need a 32, I do, and I'm fairly fit. If your normal rides are flat terrain you'll be ok with a 36. But as you seem to be asking a lot I'd guess not

    :)

    guess i'll have to go with the more expensive "Raptor" model, which is available in 32t
  • odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
    So I checked Shimano website for specifications of my SLX crankset, and there is a lot of infor there, but can't find my double 10 speed crankset there?
    This is what my crankset looks like exactly:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... -prod83170

    The only 10 speed SLX Crankset I found on Shimano website is a Triple crankset: FC-M7000-10-3
    Here:
    http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec/1.8/MTB/Crankset

    But it seems all BCD are 96/64
  • Should be the 104. You can verify it yourself by measuring the distance between the middle of the crank and middle of the bolt. 8mm should be enough of a difference to easily determine whether your cranks are 96 or 104.
    I'm not 100% sure but I believe that the 96mm is typically found on 29ers to fit a 30t chainring.
  • The Rookie wrote:
    You can fit a 30 to a 104 as well.......
    One with shifting teeth? I've only ever seen narrow/wide ones.
  • odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
    The Rookie wrote:
    As per Shimano tech docs I suggested checking it's a 104 which is by far and away the most common size.

    http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FC-M670-3396.pdf


    Thanks

    Ordered yesterday a Raptor NW 30t...just to be safe..

    :)
  • kevinharleykevinharley Posts: 554
    odessouky wrote:
    kirby700 wrote:
    If your not very fit you'll need a 32, I do, and I'm fairly fit. If your normal rides are flat terrain you'll be ok with a 36. But as you seem to be asking a lot I'd guess not

    :)

    guess i'll have to go with the more expensive "Raptor" model, which is available in 32t

    If you're struggling to find a 32 t NW chainring from Superstar, the On One Ringmaster is available in 32t for £20. I've had both and think the On One has lasted better.

    http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CROOTHTH/on ... -chainring

    You can just do it with your current cassette and chain (I did when I first converted to 1x10) but if your current drivetrain is quite worn, might be as well buying a new 11-40/42t cassette and new chain at the same time, won't break the bank.
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,748
    I had a ringmaster, not at all impressed.

    I have a J&L on my commuter, pretty decent quality for the price if you have some patience.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351761493352
  • odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
    odessouky wrote:
    kirby700 wrote:
    If your not very fit you'll need a 32, I do, and I'm fairly fit. If your normal rides are flat terrain you'll be ok with a 36. But as you seem to be asking a lot I'd guess not

    :)

    guess i'll have to go with the more expensive "Raptor" model, which is available in 32t

    If you're struggling to find a 32 t NW chainring from Superstar, the On One Ringmaster is available in 32t for £20. I've had both and think the On One has lasted better.

    http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CROOTHTH/on ... -chainring

    You can just do it with your current cassette and chain (I did when I first converted to 1x10) but if your current drivetrain is quite worn, might be as well buying a new 11-40/42t cassette and new chain at the same time, won't break the bank.

    Well, I'm embarassed to say that my gears are pristine, have been using my road bike much more...

    What do you think of the 30t option I ordered?

    I am having second thoughts now...??

    Slightly worried it might bee too underpowered?
  • odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
    The Rookie wrote:
    I had a ringmaster, not at all impressed.

    I have a J&L on my commuter, pretty decent quality for the price if you have some patience.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351761493352

    Do u think the 30t I ordered is a silly choice? I am having second thoughts, and worried I might be too underpowered noe? with a 11-36 cassette?
  • larkimlarkim Posts: 2,309
    My son who is superfit just went from a shimano triple up front to a 30T with 11-36 cassette at the back and he says its fine. He's played it safe, but as it's easy enough to swap and add a bigger front instead, it's not a huge risk.

    What you're losing is top end speed, but for that read road-type speed. 30/11 on a 27.5inch wheel is 19mph at a cadence of 90. Plenty fast enough to be going at a decent pace on a flat road on a full suss MTB. For comparison, a 34T front ring would get you to 21.5mph. Not a huge difference. How often do you find yourself in the front biggest ring and the back smallest ring on your current setup? Not often I'd guess.

    And what's the worse that can happen? You end up with one gear on your bike that you find slightly too easy (i.e. the 36 cassette cog at the back)? I'd rather have one spare "too easy" cog than not have it there at all.

    I'd say you've made a sensible cautious choice. Get it fitted, ride it, see what it's like.
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #3s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
  • odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
    larkim wrote:
    My son who is superfit just went from a shimano triple up front to a 30T with 11-36 cassette at the back and he says its fine. He's played it safe, but as it's easy enough to swap and add a bigger front instead, it's not a huge risk.

    What you're losing is top end speed, but for that read road-type speed. 30/11 on a 27.5inch wheel is 19mph at a cadence of 90. Plenty fast enough to be going at a decent pace on a flat road on a full suss MTB. For comparison, a 34T front ring would get you to 21.5mph. Not a huge difference. How often do you find yourself in the front biggest ring and the back smallest ring on your current setup? Not often I'd guess.

    And what's the worse that can happen? You end up with one gear on your bike that you find slightly too easy (i.e. the 36 cassette cog at the back)? I'd rather have one spare "too easy" cog than not have it there at all.

    I'd say you've made a sensible cautious choice. Get it fitted, ride it, see what it's like.


    wow..

    great reply..thanks..that's put my mind at ease..
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,748
    We're all different, I rode 1x9 with a 32t and an 11-34 for nearly 3 years (26" wheels) and was fine on 99% of rides, just longer rides it took a bit too much out of me to 'power' up steeper hills at a sensible cadence which is why I'm now 1x10 with a 34t and 11-40. On the 1x9 none of the hills at Cannock (to use a ready example) were any issue at all, with a 30t and 11-36 I'd probably be using second gear.

    But then many of my ride colleagues think I'm barmy as I like climbing hills while most of them only consider a climb as a way to get to a decent!
  • larkimlarkim Posts: 2,309
    I've only been to Cannock once, but I'd definitely struggle with 30/36 to get up the start of the Monkey (is it Lung Buster?). But then I'm lardy and have weak legs, and I expect to get off and walk from time to time - I can only sometimes make it up Double Steep at Llandegla even in my easiest gear on a triple!
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #3s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
  • odessoukyodessouky Posts: 264
    Quick question. To do this conversion, do I need to dismantle the whole crankset and then fit the NW chain ring?

    Or can I simply remove the crank arm on the drive side, remove the existing 2 chainrings, and then put the new chain ring and crank arm back while everything is still on the bike?

    If I need to remove the crankset, is it a simple job? Or will I need bottom bracket tools?

    My bike is an Anthem 27.5 2 2016, and according to giant website it uses a Shimano PF bottom bracket?

    Thanks
  • larkimlarkim Posts: 2,309
    Last weekend when i did my son's (on a Shimano triple crankset with a 96BCD) I managed it by removing the largest chainring (which bolted both the large and the middle together), and hoped I'd be able to get the middle off the crank spider without taking off anything else. Unfortunately I couldn't as the smallest ring got in the way, though I didn't have the right tools to take off the crank.

    I managed to undo the small chain ring too, and that gave just enough space to allow the middle ring to be nudged over the spider arms, and the new N/W chainring to be put into place (I had to remove the pedal too, but that is trivial).

    It was very close clearances, and in any ideal world I'd have removed the crank too. In fact, I've got the right tool arriving this weekend so that I can do just that so I can also get rid of the now redundant small chainring and complete the job "properly". I presume on a 2x setup you remove both of the chainrings and replace with the NW ring. Don't know if you need different length chainring bolts or any spacers as I understand the chainline may be different when you get it all back together. Less of an issue for me as the position of the middle cog on the triple was good for a central chainline.

    Obviously mine was a triple and a different BCD, so I don't know if the clearances will be the same as yours, but I suppose what I'm saying is try it without removing the crank first. If you do need to remove the crankset too, assuming it is a hollowtech one (which it looks like from the photos) as far as I can tell all you really need is the preload cap tool ( Tool is about £4 on ebay) and a suitable hex tool to remove the non-drive side crank and a rubber mallet to encourage it out. Though my experience with removing these is limited to watching a MBR video on it last weekend, so don't necessarily take my word for it!

    Actually, I think this video may be helpful for you - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5gXaJW7WJc - seems to be doing exactly what you're doing.

    HTH!
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #3s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
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