Lynskey Sportive Disc
Comments
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I hear you dodgy, I hear you.
The mudguards are SKS P35s, and the mounting bracket is already bottomed out on the bolt, - have a look at the pic. I'll need to do a bit of headscratching to see how I can drop it down a bit, - if anyone knows of a quickfix, let me know.
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Wow, that's some serious clearance! I have the opposite problem, the forks on my Lynskey Sportive don't give quite enough, I have to stop now and again to clear leaf mulch in autumn, or mud at other times.
This is the fork by the way True Temper Alpha Q Comp 25 carbon fork.0 -
Ha figured it was only time before the bb7's beat you mate
It is a real shame as those Sl's looked awesome against the Ti0 -
Wastegate, if you are having problems with the A 23 and rim tape (as I did)... I have recently tried Stan's one tubeless (the 21 mm one), it works very well for tubed as well... two layers if you use road tyresleft the forum March 20230
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I like all the technical bits everyone has said - classic frame / disc brakes, etc. But how comfortable have you found it to ride? I am looking for a relatively upright ride for longish days in the saddle. I get back pains if I am too low down.0
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Harry-S wrote:I hear you dodgy, I hear you.
The mudguards are SKS P35s, and the mounting bracket is already bottomed out on the bolt, - have a look at the pic. I'll need to do a bit of head-scratching to see how I can drop it down a bit, - if anyone knows of a quickfix, let me know.
I had exactly the same problem with the front mudguard on my Sportive di2c. I found a flat piece of steel from the SKS bag and just extended the bracket, then clamped it until my light. Looks a bit gash, but you can't really see it because the light is in the way. Works a treat though, there is no spray off the front wheel. It does make me wonder why Lynskey make the fork like this.
Hopefully these pics will show it (yes, I know my bike needs a clean).
Regarding brake squeal; I have Hope X2 calipers and there is seemingly a completely random correlation between noise and temperature / moisture. Sometimes they squeal when they're not, sometimes they don't. I've come to realise that it's just something to get used to.
RolandK: My Sportive has a fantastic ride. I recently snapped the front off my stem (see my thread for gratuitous photos) and had to ride with a -10deg 120mm stem for a while. I swapped the stem for a 0deg 110mm and it's transformed the bike, it's now so easy to ride and inspires confidence. For me, the beauty of these is that they don't look 'showy' which is what counts if you don't want any 'Imperial entanglements'.0 -
Hey Guys,
Looking for some feedback/opinion on your Lynskey endurance carbon fork. Is it stiff enough, or a noodle? Overall, are you pleased with it? Thanks!0 -
The fork is okay for the money. At present there is little or nothing better. I find it plenty stiff enough for steering and braking. The alloy steerer makes it quite heavy and it has enormous clearance between the tyre and fork crown, which makes fitting a mudguard difficult. Also, there is a recess which means that to fit a light you need to spacer it out. There are brake hose saddles on the caliper side. It would be nice to have them on both sides to allow a dyname cable to be clipped, this is an 'endurance' fork after all.0
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Thanks Ledeev, - yep I did exactly the same with my mudguard, sounds like I even used the same bit of metal. I've only put a few hundred miles on it so far, with 85/90 being the longest ride, and it's very comfortable. Roland if you're getting back pain then you need to look at your bike geometry and your back, - see a physio and get a proper bike fit.
Front forks seem good to me, I've been working on some hill reps lately, and this has given me a good opportunity to test the handling, loading up the front of the bike on a downhill bend, and I've been really impressed. They're beefed up to take the disc, and this probably makes them very stiff.
Brake squeal is almost non existent now, wahaay!! - I had some while riding in a downpour, but it soon stopped. I'm getting into the habit of keeping the discs clean by giving them a wipe with some isopropyl alcohol every now and then, and I think this helps.
I'm down to do Leige-Bastogne-Leige next year and had intended on riding my carbon bike, but I'm enjoying riding this one so much I might stick with it despite the 2kg+ penalty. It's a long day in the saddle, and I might be thankful of the smoother ride.0 -
That fork is so high, you'd probably have to slam the stem down otherwise you'd be all 'sit up and beg'?0
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Yes. That's true. Stems should be slammed anyway, if they aren't, your bike is the wrong size.
That's my opinion for what it's worth.0 -
You know, that's what I thought too. On my Spesh Tarmac the stem is slammed, yet on the Lynskey I've got about 30mm of spacers, I almost overcooked it when I trimmed the steerer. Both bikes went through a retul bike fit using the same parameters, so the frame geometry must be big factor here. Body wise, I'm in more or less the same position.0
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Yes, okay, maybe a little extreme. I just hate seeing people ride around with -17deg stems on 50mm worth of spacers. Arrrggghhhh.
The Sportive is no race bike and the tall fork suits the relaxed geometry.0 -
The only way you can guarantee having a slammed stem is if:
1. You don't mind a bad fit
2. You luckily suit the frame as supplied by the manufacturer
3. The frame is custom made
Spacers are the perfect way of micro adjusting height fit at the front of the bike, that's why they exist. In the same way that saddle height is adjustable
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A quick update on the brakes.
I've probably put over 1K miles on the bike now I guess, and have been generally very impressed with the TRP brakes. As mentioned earlier, they make for a longer lever travel, but I quite liked this. Anyway, in the interests of science and spending money I changed the stock TRP pads for a set of Swissstop D15 Organics. Not that I was unhappy with the standard issue, but just to see if there's much difference between types.
There is a huge amount of difference. The lever travel is now as you would expect with a tightly set up rim brake, ie after about a cm of travel it's almost full on. And when it's full on, it really is full on. They are also very quiet, - the standard ones were too, but were prone to a short squeal if they hadn't been used for a few miles and it was wet. No big deal. The Swissstops seem quiet in all conditions, all the time.
If you prefer a short lever, try the Swissstops.0 -
Hello folks,
Thanks for posting all the pics and thoughts, its a really helping me to decide on the upcoming new bike, especially as I'm very new to sportive so still finding my pedals...... At the moment I'm on an 12kg ali bike with a 12-26 at the back and 52/42 at the front and whilst I can manage most hills there are a few on Dartmoor which force me out of my saddle :oops:
I see some of you are also Devon based so wondering if I can tap into your experience and ask which cassette and chainset I should be looking at for Dartmoor and to generally run through the spec - The aim is for this to be my summer bike and retire my current bike to wet winter usage. My intension is for a non-carbon endurance bike with hyraulic disc brakes, all to last quite a few years.....happy to take advice on any/all of it as i'm not plugged in to the technology.... yet :-)
So, this is how its currently looking - the price is currently about right but of course happy for it to go down rather than up :-).... (I was looking to go with the SRAM RED22 fully hydraulic kit but I don't think this is going to be back in time for the summer - hence the HOPE V-Twin). Thanks for any thoughts.
FRAME LYNSKEY XL SPORTIVE DISC
FORKS LYNSKEY ENDURANCE DISC CARBON
HEADSET CANE CREEK
SEATPOST SHIMANO PRO tharsis
STEM SHIMANO PRO plt
HANDLEBAR SHIMANO PRO vibe
BOTTOM BRACKET ULTEGRA 6800
CHAINSET ULTEGRA 11
FRONT MECH ULTEGRA 11
REAR MECH ULTEGRA 11 6800 TO 32t
CASSETTE ULTEGRA 11
CHAIN ULTEGRA 11
PEDALS ?
SHIFTERS ULTEGRA 11
WHEELS HOPE HOOPS
BRAKES HOPE V-TWIN HYDRAULIC CONVERTER
GRIPS/TAPE BONTRAGER GEL CORK
TUBES/TUBELESS CONV BONTRAGER 48MM
TYRES BONTRAGER RXL HARD CASE AW
SADDLES BONTRAGER AFFINITY R
WHEEL Q/R HOPE Q/R0 -
Riding a 2013 Lynskey Sportive Disc, it is stiff. Changed 4 saddles looking for comfort, wish I could use a setback post (cobble gobbler) to take the vibration. By my measurements the seat post angle appears to be 72 degrees not 73, making it a difficult fit. Purchased a 2000 LItespeed Tuscany, problem solved, all saddles work with that bike.0
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I know that this thread is stale, but I think my question fits here.
Lynskey's web site says that the maximum tire width for the frame is 28 mm with fenders. From the photos, it looks like 32 mm tires will easily fit in the fork. How about the rear wheel? How big a tire would fit with frenders?
Any revisons to your opinions of your bikes, Wastegate86, Harry-S & Ledeev?
Ron
Vancouver, BC0 -
I rode this bike in the Tour Of Flanders sportive this year Ron, and put 28mm tyres (Conti 4Seasons) on with no problems, - I've not tried 32 but there looks to be plenty of clearance. Fenders are SKS Chromoplasics. After a lot of miles, my opinion has kept improving, it's a great bike to ride. I've ridden the TOF a few times on a carbon bike (Spesh SL3), and on the cobbles there was no comparison. Changing from BB7 to TRP Hy/Rd calipers made a big difference, as did changing the stock TRP pads to Swissstop D15 Organics. The Lynskey Endurance fork is good, with bags of clearance (though a mate has had disc fouling problems with the Lynskey Pro Carbonfork). Great bike.0
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Very encouraging, Harry-S. I have to figure out how to get the money together.0
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Barely ridden this since joining the RAF nearly 4years ago!
But now its back...almost
Decided to upgrade to full hydraulic Sram Force 1
Decided it was easier to buy a whole bike instead of parts.
Already started swapping parts over
Plan is to swap all the parts over
The On One will be a second/wifes bike0 -
pretty much finished
8.6kg without pedals
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Current spec:
Cassette -SRAM PG1170 11 Speed Cassette / 11-32T
Chain -SRAM PC1170 Chain
Chainset -SRAM Force CX1 Chainset 172.5mm 42T
Rear Mech -SRAM Force CX1 2.1 Medium Cage
Shifters/Brakes - SRAM Force CX1
Wheels -HED Ardennes Plus SL Centerlock Disc
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Nice look looking bicycle
Mudguards are advisable for commuter
Isn't chain on short side
Why no FD? Now you are slow on flat and grind uphill unless 10-42 block
That gear outer stopper looks lonely on the downtube0 -
No longer have a long commute, takes me 5 minutes on my mtb.
The roadie is just for weekends so no mudguards required.
The chain is a little short but the rear cx mech always runs tight due to clutch system.
The plan is to change the cassette to either 11-40 or 11-42, new chain is already ordered.
That will give me very similar climbing gears as the ultegra set up.
I looked briefly at the 10-42 setups but I think they need a special hub and the cassettes are a lot more to buy.
Surprisingly though the 42 chainring is quick on the flats only spins out down hill, I get between 25-30mph which enough for me. I may change to a 46t but undecided,
No need for the FD on the 1x11, I personally prefer the clean look anyway.
It may look odd to people now but I'd say give it 5-10 years and loads of bikes will be using it.
It was like that with disc road bikes.
I bought mine 6 years ago and loads of people thought they were stupid, now look how many disc road bikes there are!0 -
On a side note the bike feels seriously quick on the HED wheels, lower rolling weight kicks arse!0
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30mph @ 100rpm seems fair
I loved disc brakes from get go, those clean seatstays and forks are lovely. I lost my Cooper CX Disc to some hungry person who had to resort to thieving and I wanted to replace my sweet Pro Cross for disc version but nowadays it comes with the godawful twisty downtube.0 -
A few picks with my MTB
And some of the bike I was left with
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