Lynskey Sportive Disc
Comments
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I would be quite happy with 9kg. My 'summer bike' (actually all year bike) weighs in at 11kg
Let's see some pictures of the finished product!0 -
Wastegate86 wrote:blinddrew wrote:Very nice indeed. A bike for life :¬)
Thats the hope 8)Harry-S wrote:Yeah, - I thought the stock cables might be turn up short seeing as they've further to go. I've got the Shimano cables that came with the groupset so should be able to use those as well, - I doubt whether there's any performance difference, - just a little bit twitchy about getting the brakes to work as well as possible, and Jagwire seems to be everyones fave.
I'll post up the finished weight, it'll be interesting to compare it with my carbon framed bike. With a slightly heavier frame, bigger tyres and heavier wheels it's not going to be lighter, - but winter bikes aren't meant to be!
Ended up using stainless clarks cables on the front brake.....was actually more impressed with that than the jagwires
As said earlier without any accessories mines a tad over 9kg
Id say 8kg is obtainable but you're looking at alot more expensive wheels and groupset
Possibly a bit of a waste for a winter bike
You have among the lightest hubs for discs, pretty light rims and reasonably light spokes, you can probably shave another 200 grams tops, but not much more. I have the same wheels and they are pretty lightleft the forum March 20230 -
Wastegate86 wrote:I then proceeded to build the bike up
Frame: Lynskey Sportive Disc
Forks: Lynskey CX
Bars: Ritchey WCS
Stem: Deda Zero
Headset: Chris King
Bar Tape: Fizik Soft Touch
Shifters: Ultegra 6700
Cables: Jagwire
Front Mech: Ultegra 6700
Rear Mech: Ultegra 6700
Brakes: Avid BB7
Seat: Charge Knife
Seat Post: Ritchey WCS
Seat Post Clamp: Lynskey
Crank: Ultegra 6700
Chain: KMC
Cassette: Ultegra 6700
Pedals: Speedplay Zero Stainless
Bottom Bracket: Ultegra 6700
Wheels:
Handbuilt by Ugo
Rim: Velocity A23
Spokes: double butted Alpina spokes
Hubs: Novatec 711/712
Tube: Vittoria
Tire: Vittoria Rubino Pro
Accessories:
Mio 305
Blackburn Chicane Stainless Bottle cages
Weight: 10kg
I'm in love
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Interesting thread. I decided along similar lines a few months ago and opted to have the Hope hydraulic system and Di2 from the outset (this is my winter miles bike and can't be faffed with cables any more). I picked up my Sportive Di2C frame from Mosquito last night (after a few months wait), so will be building it up this afternoon. I'm already questionning my wheels and plan to build up a second set of wheels with a dynamo hub and Hope rear on grey Archetypes.
Here's my spec:
Frame: Lynskey Sportive Di2c
Forks: Lynskey Endurance
Bars: Ritchey / Deda (TBA)
Stem: Oval 900 Carbon
Headset: Chris King
Bar Tape: Fizik Soft Touch
Shifters: Ultegra 6700 Di2
Cables: Ultegra 6700 Di2
Front Mech: Ultegra 6700 Di2
Rear Mech: Ultegra 6700 Di2
Brakes: Hope V-twin on floating 160mm SLX rotors
Saddle: Selle Italia SLR
Seat Post: Van Nicolas Titanium
Seat Post Clamp: Lynskey
Crank: Ultegra 6600
Chain: KMC
Cassette: Ultegra 6600
Pedals: Shimano SPD
Bottom Bracket: Ultegra 6700
Wheels:
Handbuilt by me
Rim: Mavic A317 32H
Spokes: Sapim Laser
Hubs: XT M785 centrelock
Tube: Continental
Tire: Continental GP4000s0 -
sounds interesting
is it like this one?
Have been interested in di2 but just not sure i want that kind of setup through the winter
Aren't you tempted to buy the shimano hydro shifters?0 -
Wastegate86 wrote:sounds interesting
is it like this one?
Have been interested in di2 but just not sure i want that kind of setup through the winter
Aren't you tempted to buy the shimano hydro shifters?
Nice rims, probably retail in excess of the bike...
I am interested in the hydro shifters, but not just yet and I hope they will do a version for mechanical gears. In a couple of years when there is a bit of choice, I'll look into thatleft the forum March 20230 -
Yes, very similar to that one except mine isn't painted, will have the hydraulic master cylinder and calipers and mudguards.
I am tempted by the hydraulic Ultegras, just haven't seen any for sale yet. It's a planned future mod.0 -
I had a long think about hydraulics, but came to the conclusion that it's still too expensive. It'll come down in price, and maybe then I'll think about an upgrade, - it's probably not a bad way to approach it, at the moment I don't know how the cable set up will ride.
Electronics were also on my shopping list, but with no internal cable routing on this frame, I decided against it. The D-A electronics look better, and also have an internal seatpost battery, but is pricey. In my opinion the bike above looks a bit messy with the downtube battery, wiring and chunky front mech.
I'm almost there with mine now, I just have to fit the STIs, chain and cables, I'll put a few pix up once I'm done.0 -
I went through the same process of thought and decided that, in five years, there won't be any cable gears (at least not at DA / Ultegra level) so I might as well make the jump now. I contacted Don at Lynskey and they waived the charge to adapt the frame for internal Di2 and delete the cable stops, so my frame is going to be internal routing - thanks Don!!. I'll go with the external battery for now, but plan to swap this when the hydraulic levers come out.
I've had Hope hydraulics on MTBs since 2001 and know them inside out so didn't consider cable discs.
One annoyance is that the seat tube is oversize with a shim inserted in it to bring it down to 27.2. As such, I've had to order a 34.9mm front mech braze on adaptor.0 -
Well, I cracked that beer, and selected some music, - Django Djangos new CD was in there, and although a fine album it is, it's not one for building bicycles, so in went Ludwig Vans 9th, and out came the Parktools (and swearbox). And as Wastegate said, 'I proceeded with the build'.
It came in (as photographed) at a shade under 9kg.
Cable wise I eventually went for Gore Ride On for the gears, - I've used these before and really liked them, and as Gore have discontinued them, there's the odd bargain around. Jagwire Race for the braking. I'd intended to leave the Lynskey decal on the seatpost, but it didn't survive the clamp on the work stand. For that money, I reckon it should be etched.
Wheels were put together by the boys at Strada, and I think they look very nice. I don't think I've ridden on that many spokes since I had a paper round.
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Nice!left the forum March 20230
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Having seen this frame in the flesh, and having had a look at various road disc wheelsets and braking systems at NEC yesterday, I am now sold on this kind of build.
Defo the frameset and Wheelset I will be going for.
Hoping to fit TRP HY/RD calipers.
Yours is definitely the high benchmark to aspire to. Very Very Nice.0 -
tim wand wrote:Having seen this frame in the flesh, and having had a look at various road disc wheelsets and braking systems at NEC yesterday, I am now sold on this kind of build.
Defo the frameset and Wheelset I will be going for.
Hoping to fit TRP HY/RD calipers.
Yours is definitely the high benchmark to aspire to. Very Very Nice.
Go for it...!!
Have you seen the new Archetype in slate colour? I think they would look awesome on the Lynskey
http://paolocoppo.drupalgardens.com/med ... ail/16/556left the forum March 20230 -
Did you have any problems with brake squeal Wastegate?
In the dry the front makes a real racket on the final few metres of a full stop. Back is ok.
In the wet, both brakes howl so much I'm thinking about earplugs.
I rode about 90+ miles yesterday, the first half in the dry, the second half in heavy rain, - so the brakes should be bedded in ok by now, but they were no quieter at the end of the ride then they were at the beginning. I was meticulous in the set up, and gaps etc still look ok.0 -
I ride with wastegate quite a lot and only ever notice his brakes squealing when its wet, Although he's just fitted some trp hyrd's.0
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yep as said they're loud in the wet but fine in the dry, figure some uprated pads over standard would sort the problem
Here's the new trp's plus mudguards are now fitted until next year (sorry ugo)
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The hydro set up looks neat Wastegate, - nice one. How does it compare to the cable set up you had on originally?
I've just spent a couple of hours adjusting and readjusting almost every component in the BB7 setup, and will give it a spin tomorrow, although I'm not too optimistic. I'll get on the web in a 'mo and order some organic pads and give them a try next week.
It'll be a solo ride tomorrow though, - the noise they were making yesterday was embarrassing, it sounded like a rutting buffalo. My bike had the horn.
I also need to get the (SKS) mudguards on. It looks like the spacer you put on the front negotiated the caliper pretty well, - I'm thinking of bending the stays and trying to keep the spacer to a minimum, I guess it just depends on how much spare metal there is.
I had a bike fit (Retul) during the week, - it was interesting to see how different the set up was compared to that on my spesh tarmac, - with a 10mm longer stem and replacing the 25mm setback seatpost with a zero setback. It was very comfy, if noisy, yesterday.0 -
Well i just rode into work and the hyrd's feel like a noticable improvement over the bb7's
They feel smoother so far with no noise what so ever
Found the bb7's would often make a tinging noise where the pad hits the rotor. I think this is caused from the pads not being held very securely in the caliper....not the case with the hyrd's!
I'm rather hoping i dont need to do so much adjusting now but only time will tell. Luckly their is a cable adjuster knob fitted to the caliper
Overall I'm happy so far, yes the calipers are a little bulky but for the price they're great, plus weight wise the hyrd's are only about 10grams heavier per caliper
Oh and a heads up to anyone looking into the TRP's they come with both 140 & 160mm brakets in each caliper box
Plus i managed to haggle my LBS to sell the whole setup to me for £200 so worth haggling
Eventually I'll likely upgrade the whole setup to Sram Hydraulic to totally remove the cable feel but will need to see the price come down a bit first
Think the calipers look alot more subtle plus i actually really like the look of the shifters now0 -
Oh and harry the spacer i used was only becauce the bb7's have such a large profile, guesing your SL's are the same?
The hyrd's now fit almost flush so just a couple washers will probably do the job, ill probably change it next week.
The annoying thing about the lynskey fork is the mounting point for gaurds is slightly dipped making it near impossible to fit the plastic ended sks rods without any spacing 0 -
Well i had a chance to cycle in light monsoon weather today (16miles)
My verdict is that these brakes are FANTASTIC in the wet!
The braking power is still just as powerful as on a dry ride. Plus whats more not even one squeek when i applied the levers! Gives you so much confidence knowing that using the brakes are'nt going to deafen you and the people around you
The only complaint is that becauce the pads run sooooo close to the rotor that you get the odd faint grind noise from brake dust and grit getting caught
Overall very please can highly recommend them to any road disc user 8)0 -
Well, it went against the grain, but the BB7s beat me.
I had them apart several times, experimented with different pads, altered the clearances, cleaned the discs, sanded the pads, crossed my fingers, faced Mecca and considered hitting the booze. Nothing really made much difference, - I can't complain about the stopping power, it was definitely a step up from rim brakes, but the noise was too much. Touching the brakes lightly while moving at speed was fine, but as the pressure increased and the speed dropped the noise went up, and up.
I've never been into CX or MTB'ing, so discs are new to me, but I'm struggling to get my head around how these BB7s work, - I was sure I misunderstood at first!
There's a disc rotating at speed, and the outer pad is activated by the lever and cable, this then presses the rotating disc onto the inside pad. ie the inside pad does no 'squeezing' it's just there to receive the disc. Obviously, for the disc to contact the inner pad and be braked it has to be 'bent' inboard by the outer pad. So we now have an oscillating disc. Which sounds like bollocks to me, no wonder they make a noise, that's almost a description of a tuning fork. I reckon the fact that there's so much advice out there, and from Avid, about bedding in pads, cleaning with alcohol, varying clearences etc, shows the system is not quite right.
Anyway, I got a pair of the TRP Hy/Rd, and have got to agree with you Wastegate, they are The Business, and whisper quiet. They're also very shiny. I was a bit concerned at first about reports/reviews of the long lever travel, and they were right, the brake lever does throw a long way. This seemed to be more of a concern when the bike was on the stand after fitting, - I couldn't squeeze the lever all the way to the drops, but nearly could, it was only about 15mm away from touching the bars. On my other (rim braked) bikes I have the pads and levers set up so just a tickle on the lever has the pads on the rim, and full lever movement is only an inch or so. So I was a bit worried about the TRP set up. However on the road it's a different story, even though there's a long throw to the lever, the pads are making contact very early in the movement, which means there's shed loads of modulation, which feels fantastic. It took no time at all to get used to. I don't think you could apply a full throw of the lever without either your eyeballs coming out or stripping the tyres!
So the bikes changed a bit since the pics, - new stem, zero offset seatpost, mudguards on, and of course a change in brakes. It rides like a dream, I'm well pleased. Eventually. It shows how one component can make or brake a build though. (err, sorry about the pun...)0 -
Harry-S wrote:Well, it went against the grain, but the BB7s beat me.
I had them apart several times, experimented with different pads, altered the clearances, cleaned the discs, sanded the pads, crossed my fingers, faced Mecca and considered hitting the booze. Nothing really made much difference, - I can't complain about the stopping power, it was definitely a step up from rim brakes, but the noise was too much. Touching the brakes lightly while moving at speed was fine, but as the pressure increased and the speed dropped the noise went up, and up.
There is a fundamental flaw in your argument... that the caliper has anything to do with the noise your brakes make. It's 100% down to the pads and conditions. Sintered pads are nosier than organic ones and in the cold and especially in the wet all pads are noisy. There are days where they make no noise at all and other days when they squeak like mad.
Probably your TRP pads are on the softer/organic side, hence they are quiet(er). There is a window of temperature where the pads are noisier (kind of 5-10 degrees), while they are quieter at higher or lower T... no idea why.
You could have achieved the same result by fitting some good quality organic pads to your BB7 (which I did successfully in the past)left the forum March 20230 -
It does say he tried different pads with the BB7s.0
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Nairnster wrote:It does say he tried different pads with the BB7s.
Maybe never the right ones. Think about it... how can the caliper have anything to do with the noise produced by the friction between a pad and a disc of steel? The caliper is merely a slave that pushes one against the other. Disc design (drillings etc.) can have more influence than the caliperleft the forum March 20230 -
I understand what you are saying.
Calipers can have an effect, or at least positioning can.
What about copper grease on back of pads like on cars /motorbikes? Is that something done on bike disc brakes?0 -
Yes, I tried organic pads, and it made no difference at all.
I changed the rotor along with the caliper at the front, but kept the Avid rotor on the rear. The only thing that is different on the rear now is the caliper (and pads), and now it's silent. I experimented a bit on the front too, and logic indicated that the caliper was the problem, - but that's not quite what I was hinting at in my post, - I reckon it's the lop sided method of squeezing the disc that was causing the noise by setting up a resonance. The resonance was so strong it was hard to say where it was, or wasn't.
I'm with you on the copperslip method Nairnster, I've done that many times with cars and it was the first thing I tried on the bike, but had no luck.0 -
Nairnster wrote:What about copper grease on back of pads like on cars /motorbikes? Is that something done on bike disc brakes?
Why on the back?left the forum March 20230 -
Anyway, here's the final iteration (and I've never said that before, M'lud...)
Dodged out for a quick 30 miles this afternoon, and I've got to say it's probably the nicest bike I've ridden. Smooth, predictable handling, very quiet, and really comfortable. Light enough to still feel lively, and the Ti just looks great!
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What mudguards are you using? Unusual to see light between tyre and mudguard!0
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