What's your powertap wheel build?

milese
milese Posts: 1,233
edited September 2013 in Training, fitness and health
I've decided to get a power meter, and think a power tap G3 is best for me, although I'm now torn on deciding on the right wheel build, to allow for use as a training and racing wheel.

I want something that is light but robust enough for using for training during winter.

I dont think I'm very hard on wheels, and my current training wheels are some (Very) cheap Shimano R501s that only have 24 spokes rear. My 'good' wheels (Easton EA90 SLX) are also 24 spokes on the rear, so I see no reason why 24 spokes isn't sufficient for my attempt at an all purpose wheel?

Any advice on what rim to go with would be good, I like the idea of sticking with something similar to the Easton I already have, so 25 or 27mm, in black, to be built with silver db spokes and red nipples.

How have others built their PTs into all purpose wheels, and how successful has it been as an all rounder?

Is it just a case of getting a less robust rim and resigning yourself to replacing it more regularly than if you otherwise would? What's the ball park cost of getting a wheel built? Are the hubs themselves quite robust?

Comments

  • gbr236
    gbr236 Posts: 393
    I bought the standard powertap g3 wheel from last year stock, so it's on the velocity 23mm wide rim.
    Train on i all winter then change to something nicer for the summer.....assuming it holds up.



    However buddy did the same, but couldn't get a continental tyre to fit straight, so he's already heading down the rebuild route...
  • amaferanga
    amaferanga Posts: 6,789
    Archetype rim. Or for the same money as the G3 + build just buy a Power2max and use any wheels you want.
    More problems but still living....
  • milese
    milese Posts: 1,233
    I like your idea of buying the pre built and rebuilding after winter, but then you're stuck with a 32 hole hub.

    As for using a crank based system, for me the problem is that my good bike has BB30, and my training bike hollowtech meaning I'd not be able to swap them.

    Its all compromises I guess!
  • amaferanga
    amaferanga Posts: 6,789
    Why not use a BB30 adapter? Rotor do a BB30 to BB24 adapter. Maybe not ideal, but I'd see that as less of a compromise than using one wheel for training and racing (I used to do that myself with a powertap - never again).

    Or this.
    More problems but still living....
  • shazzz
    shazzz Posts: 1,077
    I have mine (Pro+) built up with an Open Pro rim. Works fine as an all rounder. Cost me about £100 last time I had it rebuilt, including cost of the rim.

    If I were buying again I'm pretty sure I'd go crank based. Lack of wheel choice is starting to get me down. Also the bearings on my Powertap are so bad - they seem to last less time than the batteries! Maybe they are better now on the G3. I think you can also replace them with better bearings yourself, but I have never dared try to do this. Also, I use the turbo a lot in the winter and switching tyres (from a turbo tyre to normal) is a faff.

    If I were you I'd go BB30 crank based and treat myself to a new winter frame at the same time! Or use the best bike for training and sell the trainer...
  • mattclinton
    mattclinton Posts: 57
    Training wheel - Powertap on Open Pro, works every time!
    @MattyClinton
  • milese
    milese Posts: 1,233
    I've just been to my LBS and they recommended what seems to be the 'go to' choice of a 32 spoke open pro.

    Looking at this calculator, with decent spokes it should come out at about 925g.

    http://www.wheelbuilder.com/wheel-weigh ... lator.html

    Given that my current rear wheel is about 840g its not too bad, going 24 spoke would only save about 40g and at the moment only the 32 hole hubs are in stock, and they'll do it on the cycle to work scheme, so I think the writing is on the wall!!

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