Anti-seize vs standard grease.

alomac
alomac Posts: 189
edited December 2012 in The workshop
Is there any situation where it would be better to use a specialist anti-seize compound rather than something like marine grease? If so, is there any particular type to go for?

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    When you don't want something to seize - a non moving part, as opposed to lubricating.
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  • alomac
    alomac Posts: 189
    Sorry, I realise that distinction, but it seems that in a lot of those cases (preventing non-moving parts from seizing) people still use normal grease or marine grease rather than anti-seize per se. I'm basically wondering if there's any situations where this isn't a good idea.
  • Blue Meanie
    Blue Meanie Posts: 495
    If you're going to the bother of using a purposed grease then you're probably going to re-visit/service whatever you're fettling - i which case just use cheap grease (whatever you have).

    If you're that keen that you strip your (and friends') bikes often then lots of different compounds for different applications is nice. I laugh when friends are servicing CV joints on cars and ask if I've got any CV grease - "What proportion of chromium to molybdenum are you requiring for your viscous lubricant?" /chortle
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  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Don't use lithium grease on static parts though.
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  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    alomac wrote:
    Sorry, I realise that distinction, but it seems that in a lot of those cases (preventing non-moving parts from seizing) people still use normal grease or marine grease rather than anti-seize per se. I'm basically wondering if there's any situations where this isn't a good idea.
    many people do. and i have had to fix a lot where people have used the wrong stuff.

    even to coppa paste where grease should have been used.

    for a short term fit anything is better than nothing on a thread but on a bearing surface....
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  • Underscore
    Underscore Posts: 730
    supersonic wrote:
    Don't use lithium grease on static parts though.
    Interesting; why is that?

    I bought a tube of white lithium grease after I was able to remove the BB without anything more than a breaker bar from my commuter after many thousand miles and found that the bike shop had used the stuff. I've used it ever since but I'm now concerned that might not have been a good thing...

    _
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    In my experience it dries out and bonds metal parts together, as well as rots seals. Is meant to be used for dynamic applications.
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Underscore wrote:
    I bought a tube of white lithium grease after I was able to remove the BB without anything more than a breaker bar from my commuter after many thousand miles and found that the bike shop had used the stuff.
    _
    It was because they had used the stuff you couldn't get it apart!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Underscore
    Underscore Posts: 730
    The Beginner wrote:
    Underscore wrote:
    I bought a tube of white lithium grease after I was able to remove the BB without anything more than a breaker bar from my commuter after many thousand miles and found that the bike shop had used the stuff.
    _
    It was because they had used the stuff you couldn't get it apart!
    You miss read: I was able to get it apart more easily than I expected...

    _
  • Big_Paul
    Big_Paul Posts: 277
    If it's not meant to move, I use moly grease, if it's meant to move, I use Keenol.
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Underscore wrote:
    The Beginner wrote:
    Underscore wrote:
    I bought a tube of white lithium grease after I was able to remove the BB without anything more than a breaker bar from my commuter after many thousand miles and found that the bike shop had used the stuff.
    _
    It was because they had used the stuff you couldn't get it apart!
    You miss read: I was able to get it apart more easily than I expected...

    _
    So why were you using a breaker bar? My 1/2" ratchet is normally more than enough for a BB.

    Actually for BB's the biggest thing is stopping moisture getting in, do that and the chances of it seizing are small.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Underscore
    Underscore Posts: 730
    The Beginner wrote:
    So why were you using a breaker bar? My 1/2" ratchet is normally more than enough for a BB.

    Well, it was the first thing I tried as my 1/2" socket set wasn't easily to hand - I only use 1/4" and 3/8" as a matter of course - but the breaker bar was. However, from recollection, I think that the T-bar would still have been a struggle - which, given the torque that you're supposed to tighten them to, is not too surprising given how long (and in what conditions) it had been in there.

    _

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