Anti-seize vs standard grease.
alomac
Posts: 189
Is there any situation where it would be better to use a specialist anti-seize compound rather than something like marine grease? If so, is there any particular type to go for?
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When you don't want something to seize - a non moving part, as opposed to lubricating.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
Sorry, I realise that distinction, but it seems that in a lot of those cases (preventing non-moving parts from seizing) people still use normal grease or marine grease rather than anti-seize per se. I'm basically wondering if there's any situations where this isn't a good idea.0
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If you're going to the bother of using a purposed grease then you're probably going to re-visit/service whatever you're fettling - i which case just use cheap grease (whatever you have).
If you're that keen that you strip your (and friends') bikes often then lots of different compounds for different applications is nice. I laugh when friends are servicing CV joints on cars and ask if I've got any CV grease - "What proportion of chromium to molybdenum are you requiring for your viscous lubricant?" /chortleFCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer
FCN4 - Fixie Inc0 -
Don't use lithium grease on static parts though.0
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alomac wrote:Sorry, I realise that distinction, but it seems that in a lot of those cases (preventing non-moving parts from seizing) people still use normal grease or marine grease rather than anti-seize per se. I'm basically wondering if there's any situations where this isn't a good idea.
even to coppa paste where grease should have been used.
for a short term fit anything is better than nothing on a thread but on a bearing surface...."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
supersonic wrote:Don't use lithium grease on static parts though.
I bought a tube of white lithium grease after I was able to remove the BB without anything more than a breaker bar from my commuter after many thousand miles and found that the bike shop had used the stuff. I've used it ever since but I'm now concerned that might not have been a good thing...
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In my experience it dries out and bonds metal parts together, as well as rots seals. Is meant to be used for dynamic applications.0
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Underscore wrote:I bought a tube of white lithium grease after I was able to remove the BB without anything more than a breaker bar from my commuter after many thousand miles and found that the bike shop had used the stuff.
_Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
The Beginner wrote:Underscore wrote:I bought a tube of white lithium grease after I was able to remove the BB without anything more than a breaker bar from my commuter after many thousand miles and found that the bike shop had used the stuff.
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If it's not meant to move, I use moly grease, if it's meant to move, I use Keenol.Disc Trucker
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Underscore wrote:The Beginner wrote:Underscore wrote:I bought a tube of white lithium grease after I was able to remove the BB without anything more than a breaker bar from my commuter after many thousand miles and found that the bike shop had used the stuff.
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Actually for BB's the biggest thing is stopping moisture getting in, do that and the chances of it seizing are small.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
The Beginner wrote:So why were you using a breaker bar? My 1/2" ratchet is normally more than enough for a BB.
Well, it was the first thing I tried as my 1/2" socket set wasn't easily to hand - I only use 1/4" and 3/8" as a matter of course - but the breaker bar was. However, from recollection, I think that the T-bar would still have been a struggle - which, given the torque that you're supposed to tighten them to, is not too surprising given how long (and in what conditions) it had been in there.
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