Steel bike frames
Comments
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I may as well add a little input as I've gone back to rim brakes for winter use, The frame is a Sword Reynolds 853 by Tim Leicester, Dura Ace shifters and derailleurs, Ultegra crankset, 105 rim brakes and Flinger mudguards which are fitted to proper eyelets. I know there are loads of arguments both ways for which brakes to use but I just enjoy how simple it is.
I should probably coat the inside with some anti-corrosion spray swag before it melts.
I might even give it a fresh paint with a colour out of the Farrow and Ball colour chart.0 -
If I want to assemble a similar set, how much can it cost approximately?sungod said:
it's a cinelli xcr, the original version with bb30 and no paint, i got it in 2010, still happyMidlandsGrimpeur2 said:Cheers SG. Do you mind if I ask who made your frame?
in terms of feel, it certainly isn't flexy, no brake rub standing/sprinting, just a nice ride, reviews often say 'zingy'
current rim brake version is this...
https://www.cinelli-milano.com/collections/xcr/products/xcr-frame-set0 -
Thanks for all the comments.
I have been doing a fair bit of research and shopping around. Many of the frame builders have long lead times at present.
Having done a bit more digging around steel, I am slightly hesitant about rust. The general advice is to strip the frame and use an internal rust protector each year which seems like a lot of faff to me but not a deal breaker (plus I am guessing most people with a steel bike do not actually do this?).
In terms of options right now it looks like the following (based on availability and budget)
Condor Super Acciaio
Meteor Works custom (lead time is about 6 weeks)
Ribble Endurance 725
Trek Emonda ALR
The other tricky bit is groupset. I have a full force 22 unused and a barely used campag 11 speed chorus.
I have also been offered a new chorus 12 speed at a good price with one of the frames but that takes me above my planned budget.
The force is obviously the cheaper option. Chorus 11 speed would require a new outer chain ring and hub conversion as all my wheels are shimano at present. I also think steel looks better with campag and a chunkier alloy frame with sram.
I think my choice really is Trek Emonda ALR with the unused sram force or the Condor SA with campag.
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If my memory serves me correctly you won't need to change your 11-speed shimano hubs to run Campag 11-speed. Campag 11 speed will work fine with an 11-speed Shimano cassette.
Some may balk at a hybrid set-up but it will save you £££ in the long run.2 -
Cheers for that @arlowood. Yes, would definitely save me a decent amount of cash long term.0
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Try it and see.
I use my Campag equipped bike on my trainer with a Shimano cassette. The barrel adjusters need a tweak but all good once set.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.1 -
I might be persuaded to take the 11 speed chorus off your hands, if you decided to go with the force 22.
If not and fwiw, chainring cross compatibility is also much better than the manufacturers would have you believe. I have Campag 10sp on one bike with a Shimano compatible after market 11 sp chainset up front. No issues at all with it.1 -
Cheers @First.Aspect . Yes, I'd definitely be interested in that if I use the Force 22. I will make a decision in the next couple of weeks and DM you either way.0
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How much are Meteor charging for a frameset?MidlandsGrimpeur2 said:Thanks for all the comments.
I have been doing a fair bit of research and shopping around. Many of the frame builders have long lead times at present.
Having done a bit more digging around steel, I am slightly hesitant about rust. The general advice is to strip the frame and use an internal rust protector each year which seems like a lot of faff to me but not a deal breaker (plus I am guessing most people with a steel bike do not actually do this?).
In terms of options right now it looks like the following (based on availability and budget)
Condor Super Acciaio
Meteor Works custom (lead time is about 6 weeks)
Ribble Endurance 725
Trek Emonda ALR
The other tricky bit is groupset. I have a full force 22 unused and a barely used campag 11 speed chorus.
I have also been offered a new chorus 12 speed at a good price with one of the frames but that takes me above my planned budget.
The force is obviously the cheaper option. Chorus 11 speed would require a new outer chain ring and hub conversion as all my wheels are shimano at present. I also think steel looks better with campag and a chunkier alloy frame with sram.
I think my choice really is Trek Emonda ALR with the unused sram force or the Condor SA with campag.
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How much are Meteor charging for a frameset?
Depends on tubing and paint, but realistically around £1800 as a starting price.0 -
Presumably a bit more money than your other options then but local to you?MidlandsGrimpeur2 said:How much are Meteor charging for a frameset?
Depends on tubing and paint, but realistically around £1800 as a starting price.0 -
Presumably a bit more money than your other options then but local to you?
I reckon it would run to around £1k more than the Trek/Force 22 option, so quite a bit of a jump but still feasible.
Yes, fairly close to me. I know Lee who runs Meteor/Velo Atelier. Buying direct from someone you know and trust defintely has its advantages.0 -
I know you're now well down the line with this, but from what you have said, I think you should pay more attention to the finished weight and mudguard capabilities.MidlandsGrimpeur2 said:I have been mulling over a new winter/training bike for a while. Currently on the Caad12 which is now well used (and has a seized seatpost which I cannot get out as you may have seen from my other thread).
I have been thinking about a custom rim brake steel frame for a while (or off the peg if something decent is available). Partly this is just because I like the idea of having something made for me and I know steel is still relatively well priced compared to custom Ti or carbon options.
The main issue holding me back is frame weight. I have had two steel frame bikes (spesh allez and a ridley cross bike). Both perfectly decent bikes but budget end and quite heavy. I ride a lot of hills and tend to be out of the saddle and in big gears, this is where I notice a heavy bike as it can feel as though you are dragging it up the climbs.
Essentially, would there be a big difference in weight and responsiveness between a cheaper budget steel bike such as my allez and a lighter higher end frame, or is the difference going to be minimal?
One of the best things I ever did was buy a Dolan Dual as a carbon winter bike. With Fend-Off alumium mudguards it's well under 9 kg and much lighter than my previous alu winter bikes, so much so, it almost feels like cheating and is a joy to ride.
You don't want a heavy bike, and I would forget steel, it's not all that and it will rust. You missed the boat with cheap Titanium rim brakes with last year's bargain PX Spitfire (no mudguard eyelets though). I'm with you in that discs are a PITA, but would choose the Vitus Venon if I was to go for a versatile disc brake winter bike, but for rim, as the Dolan Dual is no more, I'd probably go for the somewhat over priced, Ribble Endurance SL.
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If you do want to consider titanium then the Dolan ADX is available as a frameset for ~£1000 and has mudguard eyelets. The geometry is a little bit more relaxed and upright than some of the others you are considering so you'd need to consider if that works for you. I got the disc version and it's reasonably light and feels nimble enough despite the geometry. I compensated for the tall head tube with a longer stem with negative rise and chopping down the steerer tube all the way. My first titanium framed bike and I definitely feel like the ride is smoother than all my other current and previous carbon and Alu framed bikes (even the rim braked ones!). For me, proper mudguards are a must for a winter bike.1
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I've a Shand Stoater, steel with disc brakes. I used it for a cross Europe tour earlier this year. Komoot took me on a lot of gravel roads rather than tarmac (Komoot's software seems to be focused on minimising time in traffic).
My road bike is a Ti rim brake from 10 years ago. At the time I was convinced that rim brakes were still the thing to have. If I were buying my Ti bike now it would be discs all round. The GRX groupset on the Stoater is excellent.
I love the Stoater and can really recommend Shand for frame and paint quality. All hand made to order and no need to do a custom fit unless you are very different in body/limb proportions.1 -
Thanks all.
Weight is definitely a factor for me, as I am light and do not have massive power, anything above 9kg seems to be about the limit for me. I would be trying to get something as close to 8kg as possible which I know can be an issue with steel (although not insurmountable).
@bobones I missed out on the Planet x last year, they had sold out of small otherwise I would have brought one. I have to admit I had discounted titanium as I just assumed cost put it out of reach. Having seen @i.bhamra suggestion that is an option. I have also found the Reilly T325 which is available, although just slightly over £2k for a frameset, it is a bit above budget.
I am in London in a few weeks and am going into Condor to have a look at a couple of frames in person. Went in Ribble to look at stuff, it seems decent enough but nothing really caught my attention enough to buy it.0
