SRAM Force disc caliper pin stuck
Comments
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One thing to try is to hammer a Torx head bit into the rounded off bolt if you've got one of a suitable size. The extra splines on the Torx bit can often give you more grip/purchase to shift the siezed bolt.
I'm assuming that you've tried all the usual WD40 soaking strategies already?0 -
I hadn't tried freeing oil on it but I've now done so and see it it frees up.
Good idea about the torx head.0 -
Drill it out is the only solution that's ever worked for me0
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Pointy mole grip / vise grip pliers clamped on the section of pin between the pads. You might need a new pin afterwards depending on how scored it gets, given that pads may not get that close together.0
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This is pretty much the only fixwobblebob said:Drill it out is the only solution that's ever worked for me
1mm drill down tge centre then a 3mm to get the rest out0 -
This is a spare pin - the shaft is 2.5mm in diameter.
I don't think there is enough space to get a tool that would turn a slippery 2.5 mm shaft.me-109 said:Pointy mole grip / vise grip pliers clamped on the section of pin between the pads. You might need a new pin afterwards depending on how scored it gets, given that pads may not get that close together.
I've tried drilling and managed to break my drill bit
I think even if I managed to drill it out I would probably destroy the threads.
So I've ordered a new caliper and will try drilling out when it arrives so I have a backup in case the drilling goes wrong.
I've also extracted the rear pin and put some copper slip on the threads so I don't get a repeat of the problem.
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It is a delicate task drilling itpaulbnix said:This is a spare pin - the shaft is 2.5mm in diameter.
I don't think there is enough space to get a tool that would turn a slippery 2.5 mm shaft.me-109 said:Pointy mole grip / vise grip pliers clamped on the section of pin between the pads. You might need a new pin afterwards depending on how scored it gets, given that pads may not get that close together.
I've tried drilling and managed to break my drill bit
I think even if I managed to drill it out I would probably destroy the threads.
So I've ordered a new caliper and will try drilling out when it arrives so I have a backup in case the drilling goes wrong.
I've also extracted the rear pin and put some copper slip on the threads so I don't get a repeat of the problem.
When you go to the bigger drill the heat generated tends to get it moving befire you get right through .I've done a few and always managed to keep the threads intact .0 -
Turns out that I can't use the bike until the new caliper arrives.
Set off this morning and zero braking at the front.
The freeing oil must have corrupted the pads so I might as well give the drilling out another try.0 -
Having failed completely to drill out the pin I have spent £75 and fitted a new caliper.
Definitely copperslip on this one.
Just waiting for the weather to moderate and make riding outdoors a pleasure rather than a pain.0