wednesday larry unimpressed by new cabinet

webboo

oxoman said:

homers_double said:

And I sit here typing this from a petrol station 15 miles from home, soaking wet with a pair of flat inner tubes…

You could always go tubeless. Shhh, not had a visit in a long time. Comutted for yrs on gaterskins and only an issue with ice or diesel on the road. Current go to tyres are IRCC formula pro x-guards, good but pricey.

Don’t you spend most of your time running. It’s nice to know they now do tubeless running shoes as it’s a pain when your Nike Air Max deflate.

seanoconn

Could go marathon plus? Absolutely bomb proof. Slow as a big slow thing and absolutely joyless but bomb proof. Much rather change the odd puncture than ride with that Sh!t again.

homers_double

I was thinking that however I need to see if my rims will work…

homers_double

Which it looks like they are, DT Swiss RR511db

So my next question to the knowledgable ones is… HOW?

SG? Unless you’re under the influence of zee bubbellz.

thistle_

homers_double said:

Which it looks like they are, DT Swiss RR511db

So my next question to the knowledgable ones is… HOW?

SG? Unless you’re under the influence of zee bubbellz.

On a mountain bike:
swap the rim tape for some gorilla tape
buy a tubeless valve and stick it in the rim
pour some tyre sealant in the tyre before you get it completely on
pump it up like hell until the tubeless tyre pops into the bead and makes a seal
go for a ride and spread the sealant around so it fills up any tiny leaks

sungod

me? ok...

imo tubeless at road pressure is asking for screaming death when it burps on a rough bit at high speed

manufacturers: many combinations, little/no compatibility commitment, zero liability acceptance

rim...

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/components/rims-road/performance/rr-511

put some tyres with tubes on it

if you want conti, use whatever's the cheapest conti with black chilli, maybe 'grand prix' (gp without the 5000)

mrs s out with ladies of much wine, me half a glass of bubbly left, after a pause will follow with a 20 yr tawny

orraloon

oxoman said:

thistle_ said:

homers_double said:

Which it looks like they are, DT Swiss RR511db

So my next question to the knowledgable ones is… HOW?

SG? Unless you’re under the influence of zee bubbellz.

On a mountain bike:
swap the rim tape for some gorilla tape
buy a tubeless valve and stick it in the rim
pour some tyre sealant in the tyre before you get it completely on
pump it up like hell until the tubeless tyre pops into the bead and makes a seal
go for a ride and spread the sealant around so it fills up any tiny leaks

Near enough, you could use a co2 inflator to get it to pop. You don't need to run at 100psi either, 80psi plenty imho.

Bit of soapy water to help get the tyre over the rim.
If it won't 'pop' into place and seal, take it down the LBS and get them to use their high pressure gadget.

And fingers crossed typing this, past 5 years on tubeless on roadie and graveller, no problems bar one glassing, big gouge, banged in tyre worms and got reinflated enough to ride back on a tyre that then got binned. Sealant is good.

veronese68

Which sealant are people using? I tried Stan's first and had lots of flats that wouldn't seal, apparently the standard one isn't very good. Stan's Race is better, I tried Mariposa from Cycle Clinic as he seems to know his stuff. Lots of flats running about 70-80psi, the sealant would spray everywhere until the pressure dropped to below 30 and it would finally seal. This was with Panaracer Gravel King which get good reviews.
Tyres felt fast, not remotely draggy. But suffered way too many flats.
Now on Vittoria Voyager Hyper with tubes, don't want to tempt fate, but so far so good.

beansnikpoh

sungod said:

after a pause will follow with a 20 yr tawny

Oooh. Winter is coming.

pinno

homers_double said:

@webboo thats the sort of feedback I've been hearing, 500 miles and ready for the bin.
I'm going to be using one bike through winter this year as one is going to be on the turbo.
I'm leaning towards the 4 seasons, gatorskinz were an option but the grip isn't supposed to be the best due to a harder compound which is OK for riding to work in a straight line but possibly not for real riding.

@homers_double

Gatorskins roll like glue. Good for the Turbo but not a lot else.

I have had so few punctures since switching to Vittoria's some... 7 to 8 years ago(?). Corsa 2.0 Graphene + latex inner tubes. Mine are due for renewal and i'll go for the upgrade 'TLS' version. Pricey though.
I know from experience that the GP4000's roll well but I wouldn't swap (the perception) for the puncture resistance of the Vittoria's. No punctures this year (and i've done a lot of miles).

pinno

oxoman said:

thistle_ said:

homers_double said:

Which it looks like they are, DT Swiss RR511db

So my next question to the knowledgable ones is… HOW?

SG? Unless you’re under the influence of zee bubbellz.

On a mountain bike:
swap the rim tape for some gorilla tape
buy a tubeless valve and stick it in the rim
pour some tyre sealant in the tyre before you get it completely on
pump it up like hell until the tubeless tyre pops into the bead and makes a seal
go for a ride and spread the sealant around so it fills up any tiny leaks

Near enough, you could use a co2 inflator to get it to pop. You don't need to run at 100psi either, 80psi plenty imho.

Can't be @rsed with tubeless and I ride at 60-65 psi.
Yep, as low as that.
I'm actually still trying to think when I last had a puncture.

tlw1

pinno said:

oxoman said:

thistle_ said:

homers_double said:

Which it looks like they are, DT Swiss RR511db

So my next question to the knowledgable ones is… HOW?

SG? Unless you’re under the influence of zee bubbellz.

On a mountain bike:
swap the rim tape for some gorilla tape
buy a tubeless valve and stick it in the rim
pour some tyre sealant in the tyre before you get it completely on
pump it up like hell until the tubeless tyre pops into the bead and makes a seal
go for a ride and spread the sealant around so it fills up any tiny leaks

Near enough, you could use a co2 inflator to get it to pop. You don't need to run at 100psi either, 80psi plenty imho.

Can't be @rsed with tubeless and I ride at 60-65 psi.
Yep, as low as that.
I'm actually still trying to think when I last had a puncture.

But you are lighter than a fairy cake

pinno

tlw1 said:

pinno said:

oxoman said:

thistle_ said:

homers_double said:

Which it looks like they are, DT Swiss RR511db

So my next question to the knowledgable ones is… HOW?

SG? Unless you’re under the influence of zee bubbellz.

On a mountain bike:
swap the rim tape for some gorilla tape
buy a tubeless valve and stick it in the rim
pour some tyre sealant in the tyre before you get it completely on
pump it up like hell until the tubeless tyre pops into the bead and makes a seal
go for a ride and spread the sealant around so it fills up any tiny leaks

Near enough, you could use a co2 inflator to get it to pop. You don't need to run at 100psi either, 80psi plenty imho.

Can't be @rsed with tubeless and I ride at 60-65 psi.
Yep, as low as that.
I'm actually still trying to think when I last had a puncture.

But you are lighter than a fairy cake

This is correct(ish).
Last weigh in: 65kg's.
I end winter iro 66-67kgs and normally loose weight over the summer down to as little as 62 but this year has been different, despite the miles. I embarked on a very scientific approach: eat as much as I can.

homers_double

I've gone for conti 4 seasons and sticking with tubes, even DT suggest tubeless for gravel and cyclocross only.
Thanks for the input chaps and anyone who decides not to identify either way.