Tubular or tubeless for racing

Hello,
I am a junior cyclist and am looking for a new wheelset. I am planning on using it exclusively for racing because I have already got a alloy wheelset for training. I have a rim brake bike and I am looking at carbon wheelsets. I am wondering whether I should buy a tubular or a clincher/tubeless ready wheelset. I know that tubular wheelsets are lighter and maybe safer when it comes to punctures but I can see that the market is moving away from tubulars. I want a light wheelset since I like climbing, but I have heard that a tubeless setup has a lower rolling resistance. Does the lower rolling resistance outweigh the higher weight and what is your advice for a race specific carbon rim brake wheelset - tubular or tubeless? Thank you.
I am a junior cyclist and am looking for a new wheelset. I am planning on using it exclusively for racing because I have already got a alloy wheelset for training. I have a rim brake bike and I am looking at carbon wheelsets. I am wondering whether I should buy a tubular or a clincher/tubeless ready wheelset. I know that tubular wheelsets are lighter and maybe safer when it comes to punctures but I can see that the market is moving away from tubulars. I want a light wheelset since I like climbing, but I have heard that a tubeless setup has a lower rolling resistance. Does the lower rolling resistance outweigh the higher weight and what is your advice for a race specific carbon rim brake wheelset - tubular or tubeless? Thank you.
0
Posts
run flat, lighter, easier to use.
if worried about punctures just dlsm some sealant in
i whacked sealant in mine 3 years ago. all is still fine.
its a bicycle tyre not the space shuttle
Tubular.
If it is a race wheel, then personally I would proritise stiffness/aero over weight or rolling resistance as this will give you the best efficiency with watts saved. Something around 45mm rim depth would be a good sweet spot IMO.
Wee bottle of Tufo Extreme Sealant and a CO2. Job done.
nah
tape 'em on
perfect and takes 5 mins per tub
sounds like operator error.
#isthatatubinyourpocketorareyoupleasedtoseeme,?
#ifthatswhereyourwhangeristhenyoushouldseeaspecialist
Whichever you use - if you puncture - your race is likely to be over anyway...
As a junior racer maybe someone a bit older might help you get the hang of glueing tubs or I suppose tape is another option - probably easier.
You can use sealant in tubs - not sure how it affects rolling resistance if at all .
tubular taped on with sealant
quicker
easier
gets you laid
#allboxesticked
a) the sealant might not seal sufficiently. I had sealant in a tub once, which began to blow out once it was inflated over 70psi - and while 70psi might get you home, I wouldn't want to be starting a race on it.
b) given the above - none of the tub repairers will touch a tub if it has sealant in it. So unless the sealant repairs the hole adequately, you might as well chuck £70-80 down the drain every time you puncture.
tubs rock
tubs get you laid
use tubs
Personally I just use clinchers and tubes as I just find them simple - I did train and race on tubs for a while though back when I first got into cycling it's doable but these days I just like to ride the bike and I seem to enjoy fettling much less than I used to.
I'll probably get round to trying tubeless on my MTB at some point and if I like it maybe the road bike.
I think the OP should look at the most reliable option, you really don't want to drive (or be driven) 50 miles to a race, have a flat in the first 5 miles and drive back home wondering why you didn't use tubeless...
tubeless is offering nothing more than any other option - you're going through one of your obsession stages