Replacing 7yr old Mavic Ksyriums: Campagnolo Shimal Ultra or ? or same again ?
My 2015 Canyon Ultimate CF SL 9 Ultregra Mavic Ksyrium (rim brake) wheels are starting to show their age.
One of our guides on a recent Alps trip recommended Campagnolo Shamal Ultras as a good replacement option.
There's a 2017 bikeradar forum post on this comparison here, but I am wondering if things have moved on in the intervening 5 years ?
I do a lot of hilly solo riding rather than spending hours on the front in groups, and around 70Kg.
Budget up to £1,000.
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any reason why you want to stay ali rimmed shallow?
Perfect opportunity for some phat rim carbons, Prime or similar....The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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I currently have Ksyrium SL on my training bike and have had Shamal's before. Both are very similar wheels and some of the best alu clinchers around. Having said that, the price of both has gone up massively. I paid £380 for the Mavic in 2018 and they now retail for £755!! Obviously you can get both under rrp online.
If you like hills, a deeper carbon rim will be stiffer and have an aero benefit on flat and downhill. I have some aero 38mm from Derek at Wheelsmith. They are my favourite wheels, and I have owned a fair few sets over the years. Lots of carbon options under £1k like Prime as MF says. Might be worth looking at other options.0 -
Thanks for the replies. I've ridden with people on deep carbon rims and they were really really noisy. Is that just some carbon rims though ?
Early morning country rides are super quiet.
On pricing, indeed, that's why I'm only replacing the wheelset and not the whole bike!
It cost £2,100 in 2015, and a similar replacement now would be well north of £4,500. Which would be a waste as the bike is fine, and I'm not fussed about disks. eBay price for selling would be £1,000 ish.
Also need to replace the rear mech and bar tape. Chainwheel de-bonded from the spider last year so is new. BB is fine even after > 30,000Km.
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How you mean noisy? freewheel click noisy nor mega whooompf whooompf noisy?
agree 100% - no need for discs and no need to replace bike. that would be daft.
whack on new mech, tape. does it need cassette and chain? do it all in a oner..The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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By noise I mean road rumble.
I've been replacing chains as they wear, generally around 3,000Km. So cassette is still fine.
On Ultegra the rear gear cable has gone twice too (always at the really tight radius in the right hand brifter). Last time I needed to replace it in a hurry and put in a Halfords standard one. It caused really crap shifting on the rear mech. Local bike shop recommended some polished 'slick' ones (Shimano I think). Put that in and it's back to normal again. Every day is a learning day !0 -
road rumble? then again, if you like your current Kyseriums, just go for the same again - they're good wheel. if it ain't broke ....
Halfords cable will have been fine. its just cable, same as Lifeline, Clarkes, Shimano from the box, etc. Loads of people use them with no pronlem.
if its one of the Shimano ones with the funny coating keep an eye on it as the coating peels off and clogs everything up.
you did change inners and outers atthe same time, yah?.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Hi Matte, Inners will be replaced with the bar tape. Job for the winter. Issue with the Ultegra is where the cable exits the out to the rear mech is a really sharp angle.
And yes, the LBA showed me a customer's PTFE cable which had completely seized up with the PTFE 'fluff'. So they advise against using that.
It was a Clarke's cable from Halfords. With that cable, kept not shifting then jumping 2 or 3 cogs. Replaced with the better inner and it's back to normal.0 -
There should not be a sharp angle of any description.yertez said:Hi Matte, Inners will be replaced with the bar tape. Job for the winter. Issue with the Ultegra is where the cable exits the out to the rear mech is a really sharp angle.
Someone has installed your outer cable incorrectly.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
sounds like too short a loop out of the rear mech, should be swooping, like a speeding gazelle.
Which model of Ultegra? Any piccies of mech?
Clarkes cables are fine tbh, and not just sold (or even made,,) by Halfords, so not really fair blaming the big H.
.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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I agree with the above, I usually use whatever cable is cheap and easy to get my hands on, never noticed one type to be any better than another. More likely an issue with the outer cable that runs to the rear mech - not enough of a loop, or not using the extra flexible outer if the cable is internally routed and exits the frame at the end of the stay which results in a tight angle.1
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Plain steel cables with good outers. Screw the PTFE stuff.
As for wheels - I never had an issue with Zondas, now available in wide rim version (C17)1 -
In my experience the Lifeline gear cable last a year. Maybe a bit more.
The Jagwire ones last considerably longer. You makes your choice and pays your cash.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Jagwire polished slick inners are great.
As for wheels no experience of Zondas but I do have a set of Ksyrium Exalith SLR wheels for sale - some minor wear to the brake track but in very good condition for age as been sat not getting used for last few years hence the sale. DM if interested.0 -
PTFE coated cables = eventually peeling off and gumming up to the point it's difficult to pull the cable from the outer to replace it. I was astounded by how bad it was when I did my son's 6800 equipped bike
Shimano's Optislick cables are a better replacement of you want something reassuringly expensive with allegedly less drag than a standard steel inner.
My own bikes get just bog standard Shimano SP41 outers / SS inners.
(Had a bad experience with a Clarkes inner once; concluded the nipple wasn't quite the correct size / shape and was jamming in the shifter. Presumably just a rogue cable otherwise the interweb would be awash with such tales, but I play safe and use only Shimano now)0 -
As MF as said loadsbefore: Simano inners and outers from The Big Box on the lbs shelf, however no real issues in LifeLine/Clarkes.
Except if you are SRAM or Campy then deffo use specific cables for thrm..The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Hmmm.MattFalle said:As MF as said loadsbefore: Simano inners and outers from The Big Box on the lbs shelf, however no real issues in LifeLine/Clarkes.
Except if you are SRAM or Campy then deffo use specific cables for thrm.
I've not had any issues using Jagwire in Campagnolo. You do get specific versions though.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
mf wasn't saying there is an issue using jag in campag just that you have to us campag specific cables as the gear cable nipples are different from Shimano.
SRAM gear cables are also different so use SRAM ones.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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The main thing with some Shimano shifters (including some Ultegra) is changing the rear inner regularly as one of the quirks (like the chainsets coming unglued) is they can fray in the shifter and are quite hard to get out if the snap.[Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]0
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quirks or failures?.
The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Gotcha. Specific cables for the lever end.MattFalle said:mf wasn't saying there is an issue using jag in campag just that you have to us campag specific cables as the gear cable nipples are different from Shimano.
SRAM gear cables are also different so use SRAM ones
Quite correct.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.1 -
.
The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Angle is sharpest in the smallest or largest cog, photo is in highest gear.i.bhamra said:I agree with the above, I usually use whatever cable is cheap and easy to get my hands on, never noticed one type to be any better than another. More likely an issue with the outer cable that runs to the rear mech - not enough of a loop, or not using the extra flexible outer if the cable is internally routed and exits the frame at the end of the stay which results in a tight angle.
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I meant the bend in the outer cable (shouldn't have said angle!) not chain line.0
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I don't use Shimano but that cable doesn't look optimal to me.i.bhamra said:I meant the bend in the outer cable (shouldn't have said angle!) not chain line.
The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.1 -
have you got a side on shot please?.
The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Will do a side shot later.
On the original topic, friend of mine highly rates Hunt wheels. 32mm deep carbon rims front, 40mm deep carbon rims rear, 19mm width, 25mm tyre.0 -
Hunts.
oh no, here we go again......
.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Oh sorry, I see what you meanMattFalle said:Hunts.
oh no, here we go again......
https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13114684/hunt-wheels/p91 -
😀😀🤣🤣yertez said:
Oh sorry, I see what you meanMattFalle said:Hunts.
oh no, here we go again......
https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13114684/hunt-wheels/p9.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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