2010 Chorus change for lower gears

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My wife needs lower gearing (our house is at 2900 meters!). She has a Wilier with 2010 Chorus, 11 speed, compact (50 - 34) and 12 - 27 cassette. I figure the easiest alternative is to swap the cassette for a 12 - 32 which would require a new medium length Chorus derailleur. My question is whether this would necessitate a new shifter. I have heard that Campy made some changes around 2015 and the new shifter is not compatible with the older derailleur. Is this true? Also, I am assuming that a new Centaur 12 - 32 cassette would work fine with the new Chorus derailleur.
I suppose the other option is to replace the entire unit with Centaur, but then she would have a bike half Chorus and half Centaur and that would be a little funky!
Thanks for any suggestions. She won't be riding anytime soon ... it's still snowing today!
I suppose the other option is to replace the entire unit with Centaur, but then she would have a bike half Chorus and half Centaur and that would be a little funky!
Thanks for any suggestions. She won't be riding anytime soon ... it's still snowing today!
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To get a 32 tooth sprocket to work you need new levers and derailleurs. Your choice is between new Chorus 12-speed, 2nd hand Chorus 11-speed, and Centaur 11-speed.
Left field is a derailleur extender. Not recommended but supposed to work. You'll need a 14-32 cassette to work though. The derailleur can only cope with an 18 tooth difference. An 11-29 for example.
I am not sure. You have no chance.
I am not sure. You have no chance.
If it all works out, I'll update my post, although that won't be until June!
For full disclosure, I went for Centaur but that is purely because I wanted silver finishing. Nothing to do with cost of the levers and derailleurs. The cost of 12-speed chains and cassettes however...
I am not sure. You have no chance.
The other option you have is to buy, or borrow for now, the 32 cassette and try and see if you have enough adjustment in the b-screw to make this work - you may find it's possible. It may not be perfect shifting but may assist for now at least.
The other option then if that doesn't work is to go for a miche cassette with a 30 tooth max and do the same - would that give a low enough ratio do you think?
If you do end up going for a post 2015 shifter and mech then it's worth noting that if you can't find a chorus rear mech with a medium cage then you can switch the pulley cage from the same era potenza medium mech as they are the same part number across potenza/chorus/record - RD-RE102M.
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/campagnolo-chorus-11-speed-rear-derailleur-rear-medium-cage-rd-ch002m
I am not sure. You have no chance.
Looking back through it again the only 11 speed with anything other than a short cage rear mech is the athena triple version. Centaur was only available with a medium cage in 10 speed.
All new Chorus stuff is 12-speed.
I am not sure. You have no chance.
Out of genuine interest and in relation to Campagnolo, which other parts do you believe should be or are different?
expensive but v cool and if they do the job then its worth it.
MTB crankset just set up as a double?
I'm sure they are very good and know loads more about this than you or I, but I really don't see how they can physically make a chainring with the diameter of the teeth that is less than the BCD in a double chainring set up.
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/miche-graff-sub-compact-chainset-double
i personlly don't know how people can make a robot with an inbuilt camera, fly it a million miles in a rocket, land it, drive the robot out and shooooom it around send pictures back to earth but they do.
To be honest and not trying to belittle individual experience 34*29 (which I think would work with the existing set up) is a pretty low gear for road use - I'm not convinced going to 34*32 is going to make much difference unless she's riding a lot of short very steep Honister type gradients where you just want the lowest gear you can get. I'd probably be thinking of fitting a 32 too if it went straight on I'm just not sure it's worth extra expense as I don't think it'll solve the problem*.
If it's just loads of climbing at more "normal "gradients to an extent that just requires the ability to produce power to weight over decent periods and an e-bike is going to help with that.
* Hopefully that doesn't sound like me saying anyone that can't climb on a 34*29 should give up.
I've never measured this but will when I get home. The mounting point for the top
jockey wheel must be lower relative to the pivot on the medium cage than on the short cage therefore making the top jockey wheel lower and therefore giving the added clearance.
The short/medium cages are stamped either -29/-32.
And I think @alwaystimetotorque has it nailed, as the Campy rep said. Thanks!
I would have less confidence in my opinion if the Campy rep said it "will" work rather than "should". I will not go as far as to say that I will show my rear end on the town hall steps if it does but I still don't think it will.