New handlebars width, shape. Carbon or alloy?
Comments
-
If you ride on the tops I.e with your hands on the flat bit of the bars do you get any discomfort.0
-
Yes. We have been constantly bombarded with all the marketing info. For example, i went browsing bike fitting services around here. Apart of the price difference there is also a different technology, special machines, length of the appointments, whether the fitter is a physician or not. This is soo confusing.First.Aspect said:Agree with all of PP's post. And RC's. This is a really good thread to illustrate the brainwashing the industry gives new entrants to the sport.
The narrow/wide bar thing is a fad from the pro ranks to get more aero. It will have minimal if any effect on comfort. Different types of bikes have much wider bars for better control - yet gravel or cross bikes aren't considered uncomfortable as a consequence.
Then there is the looming spectre of a bike fit. The magic bullet that removes all cycling discomfort. Throw £200 at a hobbit in a dark room filled with inspiring photos of the alps and intriguing bits of cycling kit and a laptop. The hobbit knows more about phyisology than a hospital consultant and can diagnose anything.
The news is, things hurt when you get tired. You sag, hunch and start to rock on the bike. You start to use muscles that don't make you go forward, because the ones that do have cried enough. A bike fit doesn't make you fitter.
And even if your fit is a bit off - and if you went to a shop and had a rough fit, and tried a couple of sizes, it will only be a bit off - then iteratively adjust it and apply the "is it better or worse" approach. If its better, go further, if its worse or the same go back.
You can do things like tilt the bars, flip the stem, change the number of spacers under the stem and judge if it is helping. You can raise the saddle, lower the saddle, move it back and forwards a bit (to mimic getting a shorter stem), tilt it. You can move your cleats around on the shoes.
If none of that helps, you may need some new parts, but going through the process of actually trying things rather than guessing will help inform which parts you might need.
My back, bam and neck hurted massively after last Saturday 5 hours ride. It wasn't this bad last year. Ok, it was my second ride this season. Maybe that is the reason?l then? But then, if I can improve it somehow by better fit, isn't it a good idea?
At the moment I considering fitting and then replacing some parts of needed. I really want to make my bike perfect in this respect, so I could enjoy the ride, knowing I've done everything possible to improve it.
Question is - which fitting service exactly? Should I go for a fancy 250-300 pounds, 3d image something other Fancy stuff or just to go for a solid 150 pounds 3 hours option.
Don't want to pay 250-300, but if it with it? Is it?
Thanks0 -
I'm afraid it will take ages to play around with different settings. Especially from what I've read, correct me here please, that proper bike fit will feel uncomfortable for a first few rides. So it would take ages to figure out right fit and still I won't be sure that it is the best setting. I could've just enjoy the ride al this time if I knew it set up best all that time instead.First.Aspect said:Agree with all of PP's post. And RC's. This is a really good thread to illustrate the brainwashing the industry gives new entrants to the sport.
The narrow/wide bar thing is a fad from the pro ranks to get more aero. It will have minimal if any effect on comfort. Different types of bikes have much wider bars for better control - yet gravel or cross bikes aren't considered uncomfortable as a consequence.
Then there is the looming spectre of a bike fit. The magic bullet that removes all cycling discomfort. Throw £200 at a hobbit in a dark room filled with inspiring photos of the alps and intriguing bits of cycling kit and a laptop. The hobbit knows more about phyisology than a hospital consultant and can diagnose anything.
The news is, things hurt when you get tired. You sag, hunch and start to rock on the bike. You start to use muscles that don't make you go forward, because the ones that do have cried enough. A bike fit doesn't make you fitter.
And even if your fit is a bit off - and if you went to a shop and had a rough fit, and tried a couple of sizes, it will only be a bit off - then iteratively adjust it and apply the "is it better or worse" approach. If its better, go further, if its worse or the same go back.
You can do things like tilt the bars, flip the stem, change the number of spacers under the stem and judge if it is helping. You can raise the saddle, lower the saddle, move it back and forwards a bit (to mimic getting a shorter stem), tilt it. You can move your cleats around on the shoes.
If none of that helps, you may need some new parts, but going through the process of actually trying things rather than guessing will help inform which parts you might need.
So it's not that white and black.
To be honest I'm confused much with all of it now.
BR0 -
So you did 5 hours for your second ride of the year and things hurt. So if you walked for 5 hours today how do you think you will feel.1
-
Not immediately, but after some time if I try keep it like this for some time. After 2 hours into ride it is uncomfortable even for few minuteswebboo said:If you ride on the tops I.e with your hands on the flat bit of the bars do you get any discomfort.
0 -
Sounds reasonable. Maybe your point is 100% is correct. Thing is it was not all that comfortable even last year. Plus I've been staying active between seasons like running a lot and the gym. Not sure if it should affect cycling position comfort tho.webboo said:So you did 5 hours for your second ride of the year and things hurt. So if you walked for 5 hours today how do you think you will feel.
0 -
Probably best avoid buying a mountain bike - they come with handlebars around 75-80cm wide!denispearl said:
Still believe that 42 handlebars are too wide for my 38 shoulders width.pilot_pete said:
Indeed, but the OP isn’t apply8ng common sense, he wants to buy narrower bars because he has convinced himself these will make a difference. In my opinion they will make sod all difference if the only change is the width.rick_chasey said:
Yeah. TBH, if you don't want to fork out the money (I have never felt I should), there are plenty of videos on youtube which are very helpful.webboo said:I wonder how any of us ever managed to ride to the end of the street in the days before bike fits.
If you can work out what the sensations are that are causing the discomfort, a lot of it is common sense.
To me it is the reach/ drop and levers position that is most likely wrong. But it could theoretically stem (no pun intended!) from an incorrect saddle position putting too much weight forwards.
You can only apply common sense if you have a little knowledge. It sounds like the OP has very little knowledge on correct bike positioning and would therefore be best advised to seek the advice of someone who does have a clue about it, or he is going to be spending money in the vain hope of sorting the problem but then finding each component he changes makes no difference as his position is fundamentally the problem, not the specific components.
If he wants any opinions he would be better off posting some pictures side on, or him on the bike with his closest pedal at the bottom of the pedal stroke, then at the ‘3 o’clock’ position, riding on the hoods, then on the drops. Some of us could offer an opinion on the basics before he shells out cash on potentially pointless component changes.
Your thoughts?
1 -
Haha. No MTB still has its place in my heart. Road bike handlebars is a different story i suppose.mrb123 said:
Probably best avoid buying a mountain bike - they come with handlebars around 75-80cm wide!denispearl said:
Still believe that 42 handlebars are too wide for my 38 shoulders width.pilot_pete said:
Indeed, but the OP isn’t apply8ng common sense, he wants to buy narrower bars because he has convinced himself these will make a difference. In my opinion they will make sod all difference if the only change is the width.rick_chasey said:
Yeah. TBH, if you don't want to fork out the money (I have never felt I should), there are plenty of videos on youtube which are very helpful.webboo said:I wonder how any of us ever managed to ride to the end of the street in the days before bike fits.
If you can work out what the sensations are that are causing the discomfort, a lot of it is common sense.
To me it is the reach/ drop and levers position that is most likely wrong. But it could theoretically stem (no pun intended!) from an incorrect saddle position putting too much weight forwards.
You can only apply common sense if you have a little knowledge. It sounds like the OP has very little knowledge on correct bike positioning and would therefore be best advised to seek the advice of someone who does have a clue about it, or he is going to be spending money in the vain hope of sorting the problem but then finding each component he changes makes no difference as his position is fundamentally the problem, not the specific components.
If he wants any opinions he would be better off posting some pictures side on, or him on the bike with his closest pedal at the bottom of the pedal stroke, then at the ‘3 o’clock’ position, riding on the hoods, then on the drops. Some of us could offer an opinion on the basics before he shells out cash on potentially pointless component changes.
Your thoughts?0 -
Bikefit James in Richmond (have a look on Y-Tube) and Cyclefit on Macklin St in London. They are not Evans.denispearl said:
Had one last year at Evans cycles. Basic one. Other ones are soo expensive. (Iam. In london)Also how would I know that they are not on same level as the Evans does?brian.paneurope7I7wolqz said:Have a proper bike fit. Compared to the cost of a bike it is cheap and you shouldn't have any discomfort when riding.
0 -
I suspect that the discomfort is just from lack of time on the bike. I can go for a ride with my mates for six hours and feel fairly fresh. However if did 8 hours on my own I would be hurting in places I didn’t know I existed.1
-
Shoulder width as a predictor of suitable bar width is a complete red herring with no science behind it. If a bar is comfortable, then the width is not relevant.denispearl said:Still believe that 42 handlebars are too wide for my 38 shoulders width.
Your thoughts?
1 -
Running will do little for your cycling comfort and some gym work will cause discomfort especially if you are riding the following day.denispearl said:
Sounds reasonable. Maybe your point is 100% is correct. Thing is it was not all that comfortable even last year. Plus I've been staying active between seasons like running a lot and the gym. Not sure if it should affect cycling position comfort tho.webboo said:So you did 5 hours for your second ride of the year and things hurt. So if you walked for 5 hours today how do you think you will feel.
1 -
I used a chap in Amersham. https://amershambikefit.co.uk/ looks like its currently £125 inc saddle fit - I paid £100 for the fit but I didn't need the saddle fit.denispearl said:
Thanks. Where was it? Looking for decent price and quality in london and surroundingsedward.s said:At the risk of trotting out the same old text, get a bike fit first. I bet you'll spend as much on changing parts to no effect than you would on a fit.
I had a similar issue to you with shoulder pain, a trip to the bike fitters cured it for £115 including a new, shorter stem. Bars up 10mm and back 10mm so my arms weren't locking out was all it took, but I couldn't see the reason myself. The fitter could, 'cause he's experienced and is looking at you from the outside.0 -
This is one of those threads where the OP has pretty much made his mind up and is looking for comments that support this.
Clear advice is that it isn't the bars per se. It could be how you are riding, how long you are riding, how hard you are riding. Could be bike fit but before you get a professional one done, or buy new parts, try adjusting your bike.
Looking on YouTube or even posting pics here might help.
Or just go ahead and buy a 38cm bar.1 -
For his second ride of the year the op does 5 hours and then wonders why he or she is not comfortable. It must be the width of the handle bars, there can be no other explanation.First.Aspect said:This is one of those threads where the OP has pretty much made his mind up and is looking for comments that support this.
Clear advice is that it isn't the bars per se. It could be how you are riding, how long you are riding, how hard you are riding. Could be bike fit but before you get a professional one done, or buy new parts, try adjusting your bike.
Looking on YouTube or even posting pics here might help.
Or just go ahead and buy a 38cm bar.1 -
I've only ever cycled for that long a couple of times in my life. It is getting on for 90+ miles.webboo said:
For his second ride of the year the op does 5 hours and then wonders why he or she is not comfortable. It must be the width of the handle bars, there can be no other explanation.First.Aspect said:This is one of those threads where the OP has pretty much made his mind up and is looking for comments that support this.
Clear advice is that it isn't the bars per se. It could be how you are riding, how long you are riding, how hard you are riding. Could be bike fit but before you get a professional one done, or buy new parts, try adjusting your bike.
Looking on YouTube or even posting pics here might help.
Or just go ahead and buy a 38cm bar.1 -
300gbp. ouch. Really worth it? Thanksamrushton said:
Bikefit James in Richmond (have a look on Y-Tube) and Cyclefit on Macklin St in London. They are not Evans.denispearl said:
Had one last year at Evans cycles. Basic one. Other ones are soo expensive. (Iam. In london)Also how would I know that they are not on same level as the Evans does?brian.paneurope7I7wolqz said:Have a proper bike fit. Compared to the cost of a bike it is cheap and you shouldn't have any discomfort when riding.
0 -
Thanks. Looks reasonable. Might pay a visitedward.s said:
I used a chap in Amersham. https://amershambikefit.co.uk/ looks like its currently £125 inc saddle fit - I paid £100 for the fit but I didn't need the saddle fit.denispearl said:
Thanks. Where was it? Looking for decent price and quality in london and surroundingsedward.s said:At the risk of trotting out the same old text, get a bike fit first. I bet you'll spend as much on changing parts to no effect than you would on a fit.
I had a similar issue to you with shoulder pain, a trip to the bike fitters cured it for £115 including a new, shorter stem. Bars up 10mm and back 10mm so my arms weren't locking out was all it took, but I couldn't see the reason myself. The fitter could, 'cause he's experienced and is looking at you from the outside.
0 -
No. Not worth it.denispearl said:
300gbp. ouch. Really worth it? Thanksamrushton said:
Bikefit James in Richmond (have a look on Y-Tube) and Cyclefit on Macklin St in London. They are not Evans.denispearl said:
Had one last year at Evans cycles. Basic one. Other ones are soo expensive. (Iam. In london)Also how would I know that they are not on same level as the Evans does?brian.paneurope7I7wolqz said:Have a proper bike fit. Compared to the cost of a bike it is cheap and you shouldn't have any discomfort when riding.
0 -
Hey. Thanks. Yes, spot on. Those narrow bars thing got me started with that topic as well as a neck pain. I think hence I've had a basic fit last year and not much changed since then, I'd rather pay another visit to a fitter instead of playing with it much myself. Yes it will cost a bit but at least il have a clear picture and set up ( i Hope). If narrow bars are not suggested then - let's be it.First.Aspect said:This is one of those threads where the OP has pretty much made his mind up and is looking for comments that support this.
Clear advice is that it isn't the bars per se. It could be how you are riding, how long you are riding, how hard you are riding. Could be bike fit but before you get a professional one done, or buy new parts, try adjusting your bike.
Looking on YouTube or even posting pics here might help.
Or just go ahead and buy a 38cm bar.0 -
Hehe. Not really what I had in mind when complaining . Narrower bars thing is just a side thing to itwebboo said:
For his second ride of the year the op does 5 hours and then wonders why he or she is not comfortable. It must be the width of the handle bars, there can be no other explanation.First.Aspect said:This is one of those threads where the OP has pretty much made his mind up and is looking for comments that support this.
Clear advice is that it isn't the bars per se. It could be how you are riding, how long you are riding, how hard you are riding. Could be bike fit but before you get a professional one done, or buy new parts, try adjusting your bike.
Looking on YouTube or even posting pics here might help.
Or just go ahead and buy a 38cm bar.0 -
This.webboo said:
For his second ride of the year the op does 5 hours and then wonders why he or she is not comfortable. It must be the width of the handle bars, there can be no other explanation.First.Aspect said:This is one of those threads where the OP has pretty much made his mind up and is looking for comments that support this.
Clear advice is that it isn't the bars per se. It could be how you are riding, how long you are riding, how hard you are riding. Could be bike fit but before you get a professional one done, or buy new parts, try adjusting your bike.
Looking on YouTube or even posting pics here might help.
Or just go ahead and buy a 38cm bar.
You stay 5 hours in any position (even changing from drops to bar to hoods) is going to ache, particularly when you're not used to it.
I've never had a bike fit, it just seems a complete waste of money to me. I just set up my bike using basic guidance i found on line about saddle height etc and then made adjustments after i tried it, changing one thing at a time until i got what i thought worked for me.
You could have a bike fit and they come up with what your bike should be set up as, but it might not actually feel comfortable in practice.1 -
Thanks. Could you possibly give some details why it's so expensive and why not worth it as well? ThanksFirst.Aspect said:
No. Not worth it.denispearl said:
300gbp. ouch. Really worth it? Thanksamrushton said:
Bikefit James in Richmond (have a look on Y-Tube) and Cyclefit on Macklin St in London. They are not Evans.denispearl said:
Had one last year at Evans cycles. Basic one. Other ones are soo expensive. (Iam. In london)Also how would I know that they are not on same level as the Evans does?brian.paneurope7I7wolqz said:Have a proper bike fit. Compared to the cost of a bike it is cheap and you shouldn't have any discomfort when riding.
0 -
And the last bit is soo confusing. The whole thread is actually. Some say do a fit before changing parts, some say just change the parts or adjust the set up of what you already got in the bike.elbowloh said:
This.webboo said:
For his second ride of the year the op does 5 hours and then wonders why he or she is not comfortable. It must be the width of the handle bars, there can be no other explanation.First.Aspect said:This is one of those threads where the OP has pretty much made his mind up and is looking for comments that support this.
Clear advice is that it isn't the bars per se. It could be how you are riding, how long you are riding, how hard you are riding. Could be bike fit but before you get a professional one done, or buy new parts, try adjusting your bike.
Looking on YouTube or even posting pics here might help.
Or just go ahead and buy a 38cm bar.
You stay 5 hours in any position (even changing from drops to bar to hoods) is going to ache, particularly when you're not used to it.
I've never had a bike fit, it just seems a complete waste of money to me. I just set up my bike using basic guidance i found on line about saddle height etc and then made adjustments after i tried it, changing one thing at a time until i got what i thought worked for me.
You could have a bike fit and they come up with what your bike should be set up as, but it might not actually feel comfortable in practice.0 -
If it makes you feel better, back in 2014 I was on the hunt for 36cm bars and I really struggled to find any that weren't track bars or uber cheap super heavy bars meant for single speed run arounds.
To the point where I gave up and am still on my 38cms.0 -
Thanks. Would you recommend to. Go for 38 down from 42rick_chasey said:If it makes you feel better, back in 2014 I was on the hunt for 36cm bars and I really struggled to find any that weren't track bars or uber cheap super heavy bars meant for single speed run arounds.
To the point where I gave up and am still on my 38cms.0 -
I would recommend you ride your bike gradually building up the time and distance you do and in 3 months time you won’t even be aware what width your bars are.1
-
No, he wants a 38cm bar. Recommend he buys one.webboo said:I would recommend you ride your bike gradually building up the time and distance you do and in 3 months time you won’t even be aware what width your bars are.
1 -
Ok. I'll try that. Thankswebboo said:I would recommend you ride your bike gradually building up the time and distance you do and in 3 months time you won’t even be aware what width your bars are.
0 -
To me, 'bar width isn't about aero or any of that rubbish that clubbies go on about.
its about being comfy and compact - I don't like having my arms forced outwards by 'bars that feel wide, I don't like chest constriction by 'bars that are too narrow. some don't mind it, its a personal Stang thang.
centre of shoulder to centre of shoulder - I'm 40cm, so that's what I'll use and they feel nice.
re bike fit at £hundredsX? nah.
sit on bike. raise saddle up/lower saddle down. borrow a range of stems - bike too stretched, fit shorter and try out and vice versa. when comfy, buy nice stem in correct length.
fit spacers under if too low, take out if too high.
sorted, innit, fam..The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
1
