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c'dale Supersix evo pf30

chatlowchatlow Posts: 824
edited 10 April in Workshop
Hi All

I give in, I've had to create a quick thread to confirm my setup and options. I apologise as prob been covered to death

I have a 2014 Supersix evo (Sram). Frame says BB30, but the shell shows press-fit 30. Great start.

Anyway, my LH bearing is rough and needs replacing. Had hoped I could whack it out with a hammer and replace with a 6806 Enduro bearing I have in the shed. I'm noticing some type of small cup or lip on each side, which I guess these bearings are pressed into.

Can they be knocked out without touching the black cup or does the whole thing need removing? And with the new bearing, do I need to press it into the cup somehow before using my BB tool to press both into the frame?

Appreciate any advice

Thanks

Posts

  • ugo.santaluciaugo.santalucia Posts: 26,430
    I am not an expert on BB standards, but it's BB30 a press fit?
  • chatlowchatlow Posts: 824
    Both are press fit but I'm reading pf30 have a small shell or cup they go in to that presses into the frame

    I was just trying to work out if my LH bearing could be replaced without using a special tool to remove both bearing and its housing also
  • david37david37 Posts: 1,313
    the frame says BB30 loud and proud but i can assure you its PF30

    Re the black cups. the whole PF30 design required removal of the cups. cheap bike shops employing children or couldnt care less chancers will tell you that you only need replace the bearings.

    This is the route to creaks

    Some bike shops bond the cups in, Specialized i believe encouraged its shops to do just that. since their frames were so pants having driven down costs at Merida their manufacturer.

    However you have a cannondale frame. BANG out the cups and replace with a Wheels mfring bottom bracket. Creak free longevity.

  • chatlowchatlow Posts: 824
    edited 12 April
    Cheers, yeah happy it's PF30. Is there a specific tool you need to knock the cups and bearings out or can you hit each side of the cups a few times?

    Had hoped to just re-use the same cup with new bearing. The RH bearing is fine.

    Never had any creaks from this setup and praying it stays that way after replacement
  • david37david37 Posts: 1,313
    after replacement you may well get creaks, try it and see, you might be lucky. the cup

    to get the cups out you need to use one of those headset cup removal tools, (cyclindrical with the ends cut to splay them out). Feed it through the bearing to the other side so the splines click out behind the cup.

    Put your faith in god and hit it out. You may find you have to use far more force than you think necessary for your delicate bike but it will be fine. especialy so if some helpful person at a shop glued it in there in the first place.

    Its a job for the 24oz ball pein hammer thats been looking menacingly at you . Make sure you dont mis and hit the frame...........

    or you can spend tons of money on a cup extractor press
  • ugo.santaluciaugo.santalucia Posts: 26,430
    david37 said:

    after replacement you may well get creaks, try it and see, you might be lucky. the cup

    to get the cups out you need to use one of those headset cup removal tools, (cyclindrical with the ends cut to splay them out). Feed it through the bearing to the other side so the splines click out behind the cup.

    Put your faith in god and hit it out. You may find you have to use far more force than you think necessary for your delicate bike but it will be fine. especialy so if some helpful person at a shop glued it in there in the first place.

    Its a job for the 24oz ball pein hammer thats been looking menacingly at you . Make sure you dont mis and hit the frame...........

    or you can spend tons of money on a cup extractor press

    I keep greasing my BB threads in the hope I will never need to buy a PF fitted frame
  • david37david37 Posts: 1,313

    david37 said:

    after replacement you may well get creaks, try it and see, you might be lucky. the cup

    to get the cups out you need to use one of those headset cup removal tools, (cyclindrical with the ends cut to splay them out). Feed it through the bearing to the other side so the splines click out behind the cup.

    Put your faith in god and hit it out. You may find you have to use far more force than you think necessary for your delicate bike but it will be fine. especialy so if some helpful person at a shop glued it in there in the first place.

    Its a job for the 24oz ball pein hammer thats been looking menacingly at you . Make sure you dont mis and hit the frame...........

    or you can spend tons of money on a cup extractor press

    I keep greasing my BB threads in the hope I will never need to buy a PF fitted frame
    haha :) theyre not as bad as their reputation. I'm sure a lot of it is that theyre not fitted properly. Frame alignment issues where they exist are a product of the manufacturer not caring about quality control, driving down unit cost price. Given they pushing up the cost of the bikes at the same time the whole thing is criminal.

  • chatlowchatlow Posts: 824
    quick update and question - have had to replace the BB entirely. Removing just bearings from the cups wasn't an option with the shop. Cheap enough for a new one and its lasted years so meh!

    I've now got a FSA pf30. The SRAM pf30 had 2 bearing covers that kind of click into the cup then 2 thicker plastic covers followed by a spacer on DS and adjustable pre-load on NDS. FSA came with a think cover, a wavy washer and 2 bearing covers.

    Am I okay to just use the original SRAM bits I had before? Shouldn't need the wavy washer as Ive got the adjustable pre-load spacer

    Thanks
  • david37david37 Posts: 1,313
    the standard in terms of sizes and outside diameter should be the same irrespective of manufacturer. they may well achieve that in different ways.

    Stick with the kit that comes with your new bottom bracket.
  • chatlowchatlow Posts: 824
    edited 22 April
    Yeah, I thought the same and I'd much rather use what the new BB provides. Unfortunately it doesn't include the black plastic seals that my SRAM did (although they do still fit) and really not sure if this wave washer is needed given I have sram force cranks with adjustable preload washer. Outer covers are about the same so I'm ok with them

    Pic below of what's in the pack.

  • chatlowchatlow Posts: 824
    read more and it appears the wave washer is for either bb30a with wider setup and/or cranks that don't have an adjustable preload.

    Seeing as mine does, I'm just using the FSA provided bearing outer covers (not adding the SRAM bearing seals) for now

    Needed to screw the adjuster a fair bit in but seems good and will keep an eye on it

    thanks
  • chatlowchatlow Posts: 824
    edited 23 April
    just realised my big torque wrench is in my van which is being serviced, so I've had to use mini torque wrench that goes up to 25nm not 40. Will be careful during test ride
  • david37david37 Posts: 1,313
    chatlow said:

    just realised my big torque wrench is in my van which is being serviced, so I've had to use mini torque wrench that goes up to 25nm not 40. Will be careful during test ride

    i tend to use a torque wrench because its there looking at me but I'm not sure its necessary. 40nm is tight but not swinging like a gorrila tight. A bit of common sense should be fine.

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