My Planet X Exocet 2 TT budget bike build thread

daniel_b

Morning all,

planning to tackle this build of a brand new frame and parts on Monday.

Built a couple of CR1's in the past, so not anticipating any major issues.
Assuming I will need to chop down the steerer, and thinking about it I've not checked to see if it comes with a starnut or similar, hopefully.

The only thing I have never worked with before are the bar end shifters and the odd little brake levers.

Any tips and tricks on those?

david37

just make sure you have plenty of time, are not working to a deadline and be prepared to fiddle a bit. Im not sure on the cable routing of those frames but a couple of spare cables might be handy, as might a good length of cable guide tube.


The levers and the bar end shifters are both super simple and shouldnt present any problems.

use a torque wrench!

daniel_b

david37 said:

just make sure you have plenty of time, are not working to a deadline and be prepared to fiddle a bit. Im not sure on the cable routing of those frames but a couple of spare cables might be handy, as might a good length of cable guide tube.


The levers and the bar end shifters are both super simple and shouldnt present any problems.

use a torque wrench!

Yep no deadlines to work to really - should have 2 full days available, so hopefully can methodically work through it.
I think I have everything, although thinking about it I am pondering if i have enough cable outers......
I have torque wrenches :-)

Good to hear the bar ends and brakes should be simple - that's what we like to hear!

I just found this video on youtube that will hopefully cover all I need to know about that part of it.

https://youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=9eCha9M6Llc

The rest of the kit is mostly 105, and it's a budget TT bike, so nothing too extravagant.

daniel_b

Afternoon all,

made a start on this yesterday - had to remove the Mavic Cosmics from my Foil, and have now also managed to fit the EZ Disc rear cover which wasn't too much hassle, so they are ready to go.

Unpackaged the frame this morning, and the first issue of sorts is there is no BB.
PX website suggests it is a push fit BB30 - any recommendations for a decent one that is not silly expensive?
Or are they all much of a muchness?

I have a Vision Trimax Pro TT 52/38 BB30 crankset for it that set me back £56:
https://chainreactioncycles.com/vision-trimax-pro-tt-bb30-crankset/rp-prod104400

Any issues you can see there at all?

Another issue that I am probably going to have to go to an LBS for is fitting the crown race.
I bought an entire tool fitting kit when I built the CR1's, but this fork flares massively at the bottom of the steerer, and none of the adapters will make the difference.
I tried the plastic pipe 'solution' last time, and it simply didn't work for me, think it depends on quite how tight the fit is.

ugo.santalucia

But more to the point, are you going to race it?

daniel_b

Just found this in the Vision box.


Use it, or go aftermarket?

daniel_b

ugo.santalucia said:

But more to the point, are you going to race it?

Race is perhaps rather too generous

Both local clubs run a shed load of TT's, so definitely planning to take part during this year. Also keen to do my own unscientific research on the times I could achieve on my CR1, my Foil and then this as well, also using different kit and helmet etc.

ugo.santalucia

daniel_b said:

ugo.santalucia said:

But more to the point, are you going to race it?

Race is perhaps rather too generous

Both local clubs run a shed load of TT's, so definitely planning to take part during this year. Also keen to do my own unscientific research on the times I could achieve on my CR1, my Foil and then this as well, also using different kit and helmet etc.

So basically overthinking it...

Some club series are very good, with high turnout and the odd guest-start showing up to show people how you do a 10 in 19 minutes.
Other club series are quite dull, with the usual dozen folks showing up and always the same leader board.

Try an Open as well, they are quite exciting, always well attended!

elbowloh

daniel_b said:

Just found this in the Vision box.


Use it, or go aftermarket?

If its the right standard (which i think you said it is), use it.

daniel_b

Also just found these that came with the frame - any ideas.........?
Pen for size reference.

ugo.santalucia

washers of some sort, maybe they go where the cables enter the frame?

Or where you would screw in bottle holders

daniel_b

ugo.santalucia said:

washers of some sort, maybe they go where the cables enter the frame?

Odd looking parts, suspect I will end up with them in the 'left overs' pile......
Might try and e-mail PX to see if they know, but they don't make the frame anymore, so entirely possible that's a no.

Re overthinking - yes without a doubt, but I enjoy the stats and process with this kind of thing. I know I won't be anywhere near the pointy end, but will enjoy it for what it is, a challenge against yourself.

One of our club founders & another member holds (I believe) the mixed tandem 15 & 25 mile national records, so plenty of people to give advice.

ugo.santalucia

daniel_b said:

One of our club founders & another member holds (I believe) the mixed tandem 15 & 25 mile national records, so plenty of people to give advice.

A time trial is a fairly simple endeavour... famously, Alf Engers when asked what was the secret to go that fast, he said he was pushing on those bugger pedals as hard as he could... and that's pretty much all there is to it, aside from the quest for the ultimate drag coefficient.
Punters are typically nice, even the top guys are very approachable... the same cannot be said about other cycling disciplines

MattFalle

Alf Engers? Alf Engers you say?

NOOOOOOOOOOOO!

david37

daniel_b said:

Just found this in the Vision box.


Use it, or go aftermarket?

yes, youre using bb30 cranks so use use the included BB30 bearings. unless the frame is actually Press fit 30 / PF 30. in which case they'll not be the right thing.

How can you tel I hear you say.........

PF30 has a 46mm shell and BB30 has a 42mm shell
both use the same bearings but in pf 30 theyre pressed in a cup which is pressed into the frame.

daniel_b

Thanks @david37, 99% sure it's a stock BB30 as opposed to PF30, especially as it has the groove for the retaining clip.

Oh and also the PX site states as much.

As I bought all these various parts some years ago now, this is quite a stroke of luck that the enclosed bb looks likely to actually fit the frame!

david37

sounds like a result!

daniel_b

Evening all,

not gotten as far along with this as I had planned - sigh.

Looking to fit the headset and BB tomorrow, happy with the BB, have some loctite 461 and my press, but was wondering whether the drop in bearings should have a touch of grease where they will sit in the headtube?

There's no metal 'liner' sleeve like there is in the BB.

I have searched extensively, and opinion seems to be rather divided.

pilot_pete

You may find the BB30 bearings don’t last that long especially if you ride it in the wet. I went through a few sets like that before changing to a sleeved BB ( https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bb30 ) as with just a circlip fitted in the shell there is no protection other than the bearing seal from water in the BB area, which you do get.

david37

re the headset, i tend to put some grease on. any excess would get squidged out anyway. if you have any good thick grease thats best for headsets but dont worry if you dont.

daniel_b

pilot_pete said:

You may find the BB30 bearings don’t last that long especially if you ride it in the wet. I went through a few sets like that before changing to a sleeved BB ( https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bb30 ) as with just a circlip fitted in the shell there is no protection other than the bearing seal from water in the BB area, which you do get.

Thanks @pilot_pete - in theory it won't get ridden in the rain much, but it's bound to happen.

From your link, I assume if I wanted to stick with the current crankset I would go for:


But if I wanted to swap to a 24mm axel, then I could use this one instead as an 'adaptor'?

david37 said:

re the headset, i tend to put some grease on. any excess would get squidged out anyway. if you have any good thick grease thats best for headsets but dont worry if you dont.

Thanks David, that is what I will do - think I have some reasonably thick stuff, so just a thin smear.

daniel_b

Have managed to bag a Zipp Vuka basebar for £53, and some Zipp carbon extensions for £20 - had to spend a bit more (£90) on the arm rests, zero offers anywhere really, although this ended up being 30% off I think, and I'll be able to sell the aluminium extensions.

daniel_b

Well embarrassingly, and not that shockingly, I have managed to progress this no further!

My bro is staying with us for a few months, and is probably more handy than I am currently with bike mechanics.

I'm going away on a family holiday shortly, and he's offered to spend some time (whilst he house sits for us) trying to get it built up - I'll pay him of course.

Tomorrow we'll try and get the BB in and the forks too - I think I have found everything with the exception of the chain, hoping I can find that before I go, but worst case I can order one from Halfords or similar.

Hopefully some part built pictures soon......

trevor.hall12

daniel_b said:

Evening all,

not gotten as far along with this as I had planned - sigh.

Looking to fit the headset and BB tomorrow, happy with the BB, have some loctite 461 and my press, but was wondering whether the drop in bearings should have a touch of grease where they will sit in the headtube?

There's no metal 'liner' sleeve like there is in the BB.

I have searched extensively, and opinion seems to be rather divided.

Avoid using locktite on the bb ,make sure it's nice and clean and use a good quality grease on the bb shell and a small layer on the bearing outside race where it touches the shell .BB 30 are notorious for creaking .
Same process on the headset ,grease on the frame and a thin layer on the bearing ,Ip where I am it can be wet so I put a good bit of grease in the headset to protect the bearings .Few pics to show what I do ,this bike is fully integrated so it's well packed to make the bearings last as long as possible as its a pita changing headset bearings on fully integrated bars

daniel_b

What's the rationale for not using the 461 loctite?

I read several posts that suggested it might avoid the dreaded creak.

Liking the look of all that grease, makes sense to me.

What bike is that on by the way, TT bike?

trevor.hall12

It MIGHT avoid the creak is the reason not to Imo .If it dosnt its a pita getting it back clean again with a nice flat surface ..Without it if it creaks its easier removed cleaned and regreased ,which has sorted any creaking.BB 30 creaks ,it just needs more frequent maintenance .Just a normal drop bar road bike

daniel_b

Ok ta, well I just went with your advice, and used some decent grease - we made a fair bit of headway today, I'll leave all the parts with my bro and see how far he can get.

Not sure how easy/difficult threading cables through the frame will be.

trevor.hall12

Cables are alot easier without the crank and BB in

pangolin

Trevor would you use grease first time around for a press fit bb in a carbon frame where the bb is in direct contact with carbon (no alu sleeve or anything)?

daniel_b

trevor.hall12 said:

Cables are alot easier without the crank and BB in

Ah t0ss, oh well, not a big deal to remove the crankset I guess, I'll let him know tomorrow.

Won't be removing the BB for obvious reasons.

Are we saying some of the cables will go through the bb area?
I guess they must do, just struggling to picture it right now.

trevor.hall12

If its internal mechanical there will be cable guides running in the BB to go to front and rear
The pic is from an internally routed cadd 12 with BB30 .
Crank off only should be fine as there's no sleeve for the bb to get in the way