Barrel Adjuster - Internal cable routing
I am down to 1 bike only now but I have 2 wheelsets as the frame can take both 650b and 700c.
My 650b wheelset has a SRAM 11-42 and my 700c road wheelset has a 11-34. The drivetrain is a SRAM Rival 1x
I find that when I switch wheelsets I get slight mis-alignment of the rear mech in some gears so I end up forgetting this fact and 5 mins into the ride I spend a good few mins messing about with the barrel adjuster on the rear mech to get it just right but then I will do a bit of single track at the weekend on the 650b wheelset and same issue again.
Not sure why this alignment happes I suppose it could be marginal differences in dish or cassette etc but I am not planning on buying new cassettes to test the theory.
So I have resigned myself to having to make these micro adjustments each wheel swap but if I can at least do it on the fly it would be better to that end I am thinking of fitting a Jagwire in-line adjuster.
Problem is my frame is internally routed with a short 8" section of exposed outer cable before it goes into the frame. As I don't want to mess about re-routing the internal cabling I thought I could just do the below
* Remove the internal shift cable leaving the housing in place
* Using my proper cable cutters chop out 1-2cm of cable outer about 2" from the point it exits the bar tape
* Install the in-line adapter and re-install the internal cable
* Re-index the rear mech if required
My theory is that the above should give me the micro adjustments required when switching wheels and all done from the bars - I could even put a small mark with a sharpie for each point on the adjuster almost like a switch
Will the above work - I have only installed a cable adjuster on a externally routed bike and much further down the outer cable
Thoughts?
My 650b wheelset has a SRAM 11-42 and my 700c road wheelset has a 11-34. The drivetrain is a SRAM Rival 1x
I find that when I switch wheelsets I get slight mis-alignment of the rear mech in some gears so I end up forgetting this fact and 5 mins into the ride I spend a good few mins messing about with the barrel adjuster on the rear mech to get it just right but then I will do a bit of single track at the weekend on the 650b wheelset and same issue again.
Not sure why this alignment happes I suppose it could be marginal differences in dish or cassette etc but I am not planning on buying new cassettes to test the theory.
So I have resigned myself to having to make these micro adjustments each wheel swap but if I can at least do it on the fly it would be better to that end I am thinking of fitting a Jagwire in-line adjuster.
Problem is my frame is internally routed with a short 8" section of exposed outer cable before it goes into the frame. As I don't want to mess about re-routing the internal cabling I thought I could just do the below
* Remove the internal shift cable leaving the housing in place
* Using my proper cable cutters chop out 1-2cm of cable outer about 2" from the point it exits the bar tape
* Install the in-line adapter and re-install the internal cable
* Re-index the rear mech if required
My theory is that the above should give me the micro adjustments required when switching wheels and all done from the bars - I could even put a small mark with a sharpie for each point on the adjuster almost like a switch
Will the above work - I have only installed a cable adjuster on a externally routed bike and much further down the outer cable
Thoughts?
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Comments
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There's no reason that wouldn't work, it doesn't matter where in the cable the adjuster sits. You'll want it to be on a fairly straight section though, if the cable currently curves all the way along the exposed run, the adjuster may force some sharp bends. I'd probably suggest fitting a new inner cable as well, the point you clamp it will almost certainly change unless you get the amount you cut out of the outer perfect, and they're only a couple of quid.0
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when you pull the internal cable through the outer you will damage the liner inside the outer because of the bit that has been clamped on the rear mech will be distorted. Best to do as suggested above and use a new inner. Make sure you cut the old one just in front of the rear derailleur before removing it for the reasons I have mentioned.Colnago Addict!0
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Just remove the cassette that sits slightly further in and cut out a shim to space the cassette further out.
Ive used the side panel of a 4 pint milk bottle to make a shim for the same reason.0
