Barrel Adjuster - Internal cable routing
I am down to 1 bike only now but I have 2 wheelsets as the frame can take both 650b and 700c.
My 650b wheelset has a SRAM 11-42 and my 700c road wheelset has a 11-34. The drivetrain is a SRAM Rival 1x
I find that when I switch wheelsets I get slight mis-alignment of the rear mech in some gears so I end up forgetting this fact and 5 mins into the ride I spend a good few mins messing about with the barrel adjuster on the rear mech to get it just right but then I will do a bit of single track at the weekend on the 650b wheelset and same issue again.
Not sure why this alignment happes I suppose it could be marginal differences in dish or cassette etc but I am not planning on buying new cassettes to test the theory.
So I have resigned myself to having to make these micro adjustments each wheel swap but if I can at least do it on the fly it would be better to that end I am thinking of fitting a Jagwire in-line adjuster.
Problem is my frame is internally routed with a short 8" section of exposed outer cable before it goes into the frame. As I don't want to mess about re-routing the internal cabling I thought I could just do the below
* Remove the internal shift cable leaving the housing in place
* Using my proper cable cutters chop out 1-2cm of cable outer about 2" from the point it exits the bar tape
* Install the in-line adapter and re-install the internal cable
* Re-index the rear mech if required
My theory is that the above should give me the micro adjustments required when switching wheels and all done from the bars - I could even put a small mark with a sharpie for each point on the adjuster almost like a switch
Will the above work - I have only installed a cable adjuster on a externally routed bike and much further down the outer cable
Thoughts?
My 650b wheelset has a SRAM 11-42 and my 700c road wheelset has a 11-34. The drivetrain is a SRAM Rival 1x
I find that when I switch wheelsets I get slight mis-alignment of the rear mech in some gears so I end up forgetting this fact and 5 mins into the ride I spend a good few mins messing about with the barrel adjuster on the rear mech to get it just right but then I will do a bit of single track at the weekend on the 650b wheelset and same issue again.
Not sure why this alignment happes I suppose it could be marginal differences in dish or cassette etc but I am not planning on buying new cassettes to test the theory.
So I have resigned myself to having to make these micro adjustments each wheel swap but if I can at least do it on the fly it would be better to that end I am thinking of fitting a Jagwire in-line adjuster.
Problem is my frame is internally routed with a short 8" section of exposed outer cable before it goes into the frame. As I don't want to mess about re-routing the internal cabling I thought I could just do the below
* Remove the internal shift cable leaving the housing in place
* Using my proper cable cutters chop out 1-2cm of cable outer about 2" from the point it exits the bar tape
* Install the in-line adapter and re-install the internal cable
* Re-index the rear mech if required
My theory is that the above should give me the micro adjustments required when switching wheels and all done from the bars - I could even put a small mark with a sharpie for each point on the adjuster almost like a switch
Will the above work - I have only installed a cable adjuster on a externally routed bike and much further down the outer cable
Thoughts?
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Ive used the side panel of a 4 pint milk bottle to make a shim for the same reason.