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Frame Respray- DiY Can Recommendations

Might have a go at a small project over the Autumn- removing some paint graphics on a carbon frame.

I'd then like to either spray the areas black, or leave raw and spray a clear coat on.

Any recommendations for decent rattle cans for this type of work? Any UV resistant finishing coats etc?

Posts

  • I'm part way through a refurb of a Kinesis T2 aluminium frame. I've had it dipped to strip and have now primed it ready for colour and am using an old fork for a test piece.

    Have a look at EtoE youtube channel for some very handy tips and recommendations which I have taken and can recommend the following myself.

    SprayMax 2k (2 part) primer/filler
    SprayMax 2k (2 Part) clearcoat
    Montana Gold cans for your colour - very good quality and loads of colour choice should you decide to do something other than black.

    I know other people that have used and would recommend spray.bike cans

    Like all things paint though the key is the meticulous preparation of the frame and primer using 800grit wet sanding.
  • Having just repainted my Tarmac (https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/comment/20679899#Comment_20679899), I can recommend the Montana Gold paint (don't get the Montana white or Black though).

    I got most of my paint from https://www.dcpaintsolutions.com/ as they could mix to pantone colours, for which there are millions of options.

    I used ProXL paints, so an etch primer to start, then base coats (montana gold and acrylic mixed by DC), then I had it lacquered by a local bodyshop.

    Normal rattle can lacquer isn't very good and goes dull and chips very easily. Ideally it needs to be done in 2K but only if you have the right PPE (air fed mask, proper extraction etc) as the isocyanate in 2k paint can cause very serious health issues (to you and anyone in the area).
  • lesfirthlesfirth Posts: 1,147
    I repainted a frame using cheapo E bay spray cans.Colour and clearcoat. The finished job looked excellent ( I have a bit of expertise from the car trade ). However the paint was far too soft and marked very easily. I would advise you to only use spray cans that have been recommended and you know will give the result you want. As said above meticulous preparation is needed. You can never cover anything up with the top coat.
  • davidofdavidof Posts: 2,446
    edited September 2020
    This is the job I did using rattle cans, 1K colour coat, 2K clear coat



    I did a carbon frame with 2K matt clear coat at the same time

    Where a FP2 mask or better and goggles, as said above 2K is nasty stuff to get in the lungs or eyes.

    As always with painting, preparation is everything. Make sure you work somewhere with no wind and cover everything up to avoid it getting pain particles.
  • I resprayed my old Boardman using chameleon aerosol paints from here:

    https://perfectpearlsandpigments.co.uk/product-category/mixed-paints-and-aerosols/chameleon-basecoat-paints/

    You can see the project here:

    https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13107309/boardman-team-comp-winter-project#latest

    Paint is still in perfect condition, I just used a black base layer and aerosol clearcoat and have had no bother with it.

    Its a great winter project and a lot of fun - best of luck.
  • Cheers for all the advice! Will look into all the recommendations, and heed the advice!

    TBH, it's (hopefully), a very small job I'm considering undertaking- not a full frame n forks re-spray. Basically, got an old Foil I still use as 2nd bike (still love it), and am just tired of the dated green/ yellow Kamm-Tail accents on back of the seatpost, seat-tube and seat stays. I'd like to remove this and just have it black to match rest of the majority of the frame.

    I experimented a bit yesterday with the seatpost below the inserted point- used the razor blade method to scratch the paint and clear coat off the back and gave it a bit of a wet n/ dry rub with 400. Surprised how easy this method is tbh! I'd need to get finer grit I guess to get it better. The seatpost at least looks like it can be sanded back and just given a lacquer as it doesn't appear to be painted. Back of the seat-tube/ stays will probably require black paint on a primer then lacquer...



    If you get what I mean from the pic? (I'm not bothered about the other yellow fine line detail)

    I guess trialling the seatpost first is a good idea!

  • Hammerite and 6" brush.
  • sungodsungod Posts: 13,526
    i used a u-pol clearcoat to redo the insertion/clamping area on an ax lightness seatpost - it needs removing/refitting every time i travel with the bike, over a few years the original coating was being worn away

    did it 2017, just two 'dusting' coats, still ok, imo it's tougher than the original was
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009G1AU3Q

    they do coloured coatings as well...
    https://www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/products/aerosols-uk/power-can-aerosols

    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • Cheers- will look at those too. Ordered (and received), some various grade wet n' dry paper. Just need to strip the bike down now...
  • Brief update- not gotten very far with this "project", yet other than removing the green n yellow paint from the tubes with a razor blade (then sanding lightly with 600/2000 wet n dry).

    I'll probably wait til it's a bit warmer to attempt the paint bit...


  • incidentally, what would folk class the gloss level of that original black paint/ laquer in the pic a few posts up? Full gloss? Semi-gloss or satin?
  • dannbodgedannbodge Posts: 964
    Full gloss.
    It's shiny
  • MattFalleMattFalle Posts: 4,118
    go to your local paint factor and they will sell you whatever you want in whatever colour you want, offer advice as to strip, prep and finish the frame and advise on gloss levels, etc.
  • david37david37 Posts: 1,313
    Nice project to do, and a nice bike!

    As an observation I don't know how you would get the paints in such a large part of the bike to match seamlessly with the rest if you're doing it with rattle cans in the shed. Would it not be more ocd satisfying to bite the bullet and do the whole thing? It's a nice bike built up with DA, it would look lush. And then you could use some of the funky new colours.

  • david37 said:

    Nice project to do, and a nice bike!

    As an observation I don't know how you would get the paints in such a large part of the bike to match seamlessly with the rest if you're doing it with rattle cans in the shed. Would it not be more ocd satisfying to bite the bullet and do the whole thing? It's a nice bike built up with DA, it would look lush. And then you could use some of the funky new colours.

    That's essentially what the guy at Carbonreincarnation has said- he wouldn't be happy trying to "blend-in", the paint up to a line with the yellow lettering on the seat tube. I'm not bothered about the lettering tbh, but didn't realise blending black into black would be so tricky?

    He's quoted me £300 to do the whole f&f if I strip the rest myself...
  • david37david37 Posts: 1,313

    david37 said:

    Nice project to do, and a nice bike!

    As an observation I don't know how you would get the paints in such a large part of the bike to match seamlessly with the rest if you're doing it with rattle cans in the shed. Would it not be more ocd satisfying to bite the bullet and do the whole thing? It's a nice bike built up with DA, it would look lush. And then you could use some of the funky new colours.

    That's essentially what the guy at Carbonreincarnation has said- he wouldn't be happy trying to "blend-in", the paint up to a line with the yellow lettering on the seat tube. I'm not bothered about the lettering tbh, but didn't realise blending black into black would be so tricky?

    He's quoted me £300 to do the whole f&f if I strip the rest myself...
    best you get rubbing then :) time for some funky paintwork....... before during and after photos please!
  • pippi_langsamer-2pippi_langsamer-2 Posts: 1,398
    edited 8 February
    Still not started lol. Still confused by some cm conflicting advice as to what is needed in terms of a primer for the raw carbon.

    Some have said no primer is necessary on unpainted carbon, some recommend etch primer, and another recommends a high-build primer...oh, and also a recommendation for epoxy primer!

    What gives?

  • MattFalleMattFalle Posts: 4,118
    edited 9 February
    Its carbon - normal base primer (whatever colour you choose).

    no need for etch.

    you need a primer for the pain to hold onto.

    go and see dudes at the paint factor and they will sell you primer, paint and lacquer plus anything else you need in one hit.

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