Voodoo bizango carbon rear wheel wobble

Hi.

Has anyone got a bizango carbon as ube recently purchased one and I've had a rear wheel wobble. I know 0 about bikes but the spokes and cones have been tested and the wheel runs true. Its been back to halfords who have replaced the wheel and said the hub casing(could be wrong term) was loose but they are saying that because of the boost axle and the spindle being loose its causing a wobble. Ive got this bike on cycle2work and also paid for 3 years servicing but they are saying that there is nothing they can do. I refuse to belive that this sort of bike has a rear wheel that moves 3 to 5 mm. Going down a steep hill the bike nearly threw me off as it was all over the place. Has anyone got any ideas or advice. Im not sure how to post a video but I have a video of me moving the rear wheel side to side when stationary
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Comments

  • I have got a link to a YouTube of me moving the tire

    https://youtu.be/fBgxhj0RMuU
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited August 2020
    Regardless of what the issue is, the response from Halfords saying 'nothing they can do' isn't good enough and it must be fixable but if they keep saying it isn't don't accept it, demand a new bike or get a refund.

    Can't watch the video but when you pull a wheel from side to side there will be a normal amount of flex but excess play and knocking from the hub is not acceptable.

    Take the bike back to them and demand it is sorted. Halfords problem to fix whatever it takes, not yours Pal.
  • danx
    danx Posts: 27
    That's not right and needs fixing, replacing under warranty or refunding.

    Does it make the rear brake rub when riding? If so check out the pads for wear and get them replaced as part of the same warranty claim.
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    Halfords are talking rubbish. No wheel should have that amount of free play. Either the rear thru axle is loose, the hub bearings are loose or possibly the thru axle receiver (the black threaded block on the drive side drop out) is loose.
    If Halfords replaced the wheel then that should have negated the loose hub bearing possibility. I'd question them though and confirm whether they did replace the wheel with a new one or merely take off and then refit the original wheel.
    Take the bike back to Halfords and ask them to have another look at it and try and sort it out. If they can't/won't then reject the bike and ask for a replacement.

    If they have another Bizango Carbon in the shop have a look at it and see if the rear wheel has the same wobble as your bike. If it hasn't then that's your evidence that something is wrong with your bike.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    edited August 2020
    That most certainly doesn't look normal or acceptable.

    Is the clunking noise from the hub?

    From Spec sheet "Alloy, 12x148mm, Boost, Sealed Bearing" which suggests easily adjustable cup and cone bearings.

    If it' C2W raise the issue with your employer who you are currently 'renting' the bike from (as per ride to work tax rules).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Andygayle83
    Andygayle83 Posts: 36
    edited August 2020
    Its definitely a new wheel on there. They said the hub casing(possibly wrong term was loose) there is no other bizango carbon in the whole country at halfords to compare it too. No the brakes don't seem to be rubbing to be fair. It isn't that noticeable(with my limited knowledge) until I went down a steep hill and hit 25mph and the rear was all over the place and felt like a rodeo bull(only way I can describe it)
  • Andygayle83
    Andygayle83 Posts: 36
    edited August 2020
    I'll try to get a better video(someone to hold camera whilst I move wheel) but I would say there is 3 to 5mm movement either side so a movement of 6 to 10 mm in total. I will probably take it to an independent shop but the waiting list is long and considering I've paid 1k for this bike(2 months ago)and also 240 cycle care for 3 years I'm reluctant to fork out more money
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited August 2020
    When you rock a back wheel from side to side the frame, rim and even tyre will deflect and this is normal.

    You could compare your rear wheel to any bike not just another Voodoo. The difference in lateral movement between two back wheels may not be noticeable but a slight knocking noise or sensation will indicate a problem.

    As Halfords have already admitted there is an issue with the hub and say there is nothing they can do only suggested the hub is defective in some way or they would easily be able to adjust, replace or fix the bearings whether they are cup and cone or sealed cartridge type.

    Either way it is still not your responsibility and you shouldn't contemplate any other alternative options that will cost you money.

    If Halfords are saying 'nothing they can do about it' with regards fixing you rear wheel you should ask to see a manager and demand a full refund and I'm sure they would find a way instead of fobbing you off with lies or excuses.



  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    The OP can't demand a refund as it's not his bike. It was purchased under the cycle2work scheme and therefore belongs to his employer.

    If two rear wheels have displayed the same fault then either both were from a faulty batch or the problem is with the frame or dropouts.

    Watching that video again there doesn't appear to be any movement of the cassette when the wheel is flexed so maybe the attachment points are ok.

    A better video showing more angles will help.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited August 2020
    I've never used cycle to work scheme so know nothing about the legalities of it, having said that does that mean the OP has no recourse and should just accept a defective product or exchange for the same defective product regardless of what the defect is?
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,452
    Ref the law, it is doubtful that the Halford people know it either. As far as they are concerned the OP is their customer. How does it profit Halfords to pi$$ him off, only to have to deal with a much bigger fish shortly afterwards?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You need to be clear if its the wheel rim moving (it shouldn't) or just the tyre deflecting on the rim.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Its not the tyre on the rim. Its the whole wheel moving.o will put up new video so I can show what I mean but ive tried to do this with other bikes in the shops and the rear wheels hardly move. I cam move my rear wheel a few mm each way. The reason o know its not the tyre moving in the rim is because I have also held my hand under the rim and still.the whole wheel moves. I will post a new video tomorrow once I ha e daylight and better angles. Thanks for all your help so far
  • Andygayle83
    Andygayle83 Posts: 36
    edited August 2020
    I've uploaded a new video.once my son comes here ill get him to hold camera and ill do all angles. But just to add there is a noise when I move it and I think its the brake disk. The wheel has so much lateral movement the disk is touching the pad on either side when I move it although I don't get any brake squeal when riding but maybe my weight suppresses the movement although sometimes it does feel as if the bike suddenly slows down and many a time have I checked to see if I've got a puncture. As I said I only really noticed it when I went down a steep decline and hit 25mph or slightly more. I was on the pavement but the rear was so skittish I felt like it was going to throw me off
  • Also the wheels are definitely not the same batch..the bike came from halfords Beckton but halfords chadwell heath replaced the wheel under warranty and its not the same brand that was on there before so its not that.
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited August 2020
    I've seen the second video. Wow! You you can rule out flex! Something is very loose or very wrong. That looks dangerous and wouldn't even attempt to ride it until Halfords or someone has a look at it.

    Get on YouTube if your not sure and give yourself and idea of what to do and how hubs are set up things like this for example:-

    https://youtu.be/omBmkFMM_Xw

    https://youtu.be/SEGeLYPmem4

    Check to see if the thru axle is even been tightened properly, take the wheel off and wiggle the axle ends and get video of the hubs while you film it.

    If the bearings are cup and cone there should be two narrow nuts that lock together on both sides of the hub and see if they a loose and you can turn them by hand.

    Whatever you do don't ride it like that for now as it could get worse or fail which could cause damage
    to the rear of your bike frame.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    So lets look at this step by step.
    1/ Is the rear through axle tightening up properly, can you feel the torque required to load it go up as it tightens on the axle?
    2/ When the wheel moves are the cassette and brake disc moving as well? Neither video is very clear for this

    Could it be a 142x12 wheel in a 148x12 frame? That would give just under 6mm a slop (the through axle will pull the sides of the frame in slightly. Perhaps take the wheel out and measure the axle length.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    Something is definitely not right there.
    It sounds like something is loose so I'm still erring towards a drop-out issue. Either something has not been tightened properly or as Rookie says maybe a 142mm wheel in 148mm drop outs.

    Any chance of another video of the drop out areas as you move the wheel?
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • dabber
    dabber Posts: 1,975
    No bike shop can say that is right. Some suggestions as to what exactly is the cause but regardless of that, there is something wrong. I wouldn't consider riding it like that.
    If local Halfords won't/can't fix it or replace the whole bike then an escalation is required.
    “You may think that; I couldn’t possibly comment!”

    Wilier Cento Uno SR/Wilier Mortirolo/Specialized Roubaix Comp/Kona Hei Hei/Calibre Bossnut
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    dabber said:

    No bike shop can say that is right. Some suggestions as to what exactly is the cause but regardless of that, there is something wrong. I wouldn't consider riding it like that.
    If local Halfords won't/can't fix it or replace the whole bike then an escalation is required.

    Exactly that.👍The voice of reason. 👍👍Not something a forum can fix by advice online. It will require taking it to a bike shop.
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,452
    I can hear it rattling!
    Bad, bad bad. How on earth can Halfords say that is OK and there is nothing they can do!!!!
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185

    I can hear it rattling!
    Bad, bad bad. How on earth can Halfords say that is OK and there is nothing they can do!!!!

    In Halfords defence......urmmm......hmmmm.........The local branch has a decent cafe across the way which does a nice Latte. 🤣😂
  • Thank you all so much for your help. I Will put a few new angles of video once I have someone here to hold camera. But I am completely useless at anything manual and dont really even have tools(too many years as an office boy im afraid) hence why i also took out the 3 year cycle plan which covers all eventualities. Ill try a local bike shop but when I was trying to get my boys bike serviced it was a 2 month wait lol. Im reluctant to start doing anything myself as the bike is covered under warranty and also the cycle plan so if I do something and snap a bolt or something then it would void any warranty. I knew if I posted on here I would get some good advice. Im not looking to fix it I just wanted to see if it was a problem that some people may say is common and it sounds like it isnt. Problem being is I couldn't argue as I dont know what I was talking about
  • I found a video that explained about the axles

    https://youtu.be/miAHAfLFSU4

    I'll have a look but as I said im reluctant to do anything as knowing my luck ill snap something and invalidate the warranty but I can see what you mean about the lengths
  • Andygayle83
    Andygayle83 Posts: 36
    edited August 2020



    I think I have found the problem. If you hold the frame(where it says bizango c and squeeze the frame moves a few mm like it hasnt been tightened so it looks like it isnt the wheel thats moving but the frame loose but for love nor money can I loosen that axle. I dont know if its possible but could it have been over tightened and cross threaded the frame and now the frame is loose and the axle stuck(could be impossible)


  • 1st pic frame normal.no space around the axle



    2nd pic is with the frame pressed there a
    Is a 2mm gap around the axle. Its like it was tightened and sprung back

  • I don't know what a thru axle is but looks like its not gripping the frame to the wheel then?
    If so then like has been said, wrong wheel in frame or bolt through part too long and bottoming out before it is able to grip the frame against the wheel.
    If you have a few washers too hand you could put them between frame and wheel and see if that enables it to be gripped together?
    Good luck