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Lubricating a new chain

munkstermunkster Posts: 819
edited April 2019 in Workshop
I’ve decided to start using dry ceramic lube (Finish Line) and was wondering how long to leave it before using it on a brand new chain on the “dry/summer” bike. I’ve done 100ish miles on it now wondering how long to rely on the factory lube before degreasing and starting with the ceramic stuff.

I’m sure people will have strong opinions on this lube but I want to try it, particularly since it will go on a brand new chain that’s only going to get used in dry conditions...

So I suppose I’m asking: how long does the factory lube last for usually do we think? Opinions on the lube welcome too! (Bracing myself) :D
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  • mangliermanglier Posts: 707
    In dry conditions I would lube the chain every couple of hundred miles (Squirt) so I guess you're about halfway there. I recommend a thorough chain cleaning before you switch just to make sure that the only lube in the links is the one you choose.
  • rafletcherrafletcher Posts: 1,235
    When it starts to squeak. After that, you'll probably have to use a ceramic lube every 1-200 miles, it's awful stuff (IMO) :D
  • munkstermunkster Posts: 819
    TBF I think I’d be re-lubing a chain every 3 or 4 rides anyway so 1-200 miles sounds fine to me!
  • okgookgo Posts: 4,368
    You are meant to degrease the chain straight away from the factory as that lube is not only very slow, but also sucks up ALL the censored from the road. Having looked into squirt recently, it needs to be topped up every 100 miles, and left to dry.

    Though the first time you put it on a clean chain you need to put a lot on, leave it for a while to dry, then put another bit on to get a base layer, then just top up as above. The factory lube is grim, though I can see how its tempting to leave it on. We have all done it.
    Blog on my first and now second season of proper riding/racing - www.firstseasonracing.com
  • svettysvetty Posts: 1,904
    okgo wrote:
    You are meant to degrease the chain straight away from the factory as that lube is not only very slow, but also sucks up ALL the shoot from the road. Having looked into squirt recently, it needs to be topped up every 100 miles, and left to dry.

    Though the first time you put it on a clean chain you need to put a lot on, leave it for a while to dry, then put another bit on to get a base layer, then just top up as above. The factory lube is grim, though I can see how its tempting to leave it on. We have all done it.

    You forgot to add the 'IMO' to this

    Others have different views.......
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • okgookgo Posts: 4,368
    svetty wrote:
    okgo wrote:
    You are meant to degrease the chain straight away from the factory as that lube is not only very slow, but also sucks up ALL the shoot from the road. Having looked into squirt recently, it needs to be topped up every 100 miles, and left to dry.

    Though the first time you put it on a clean chain you need to put a lot on, leave it for a while to dry, then put another bit on to get a base layer, then just top up as above. The factory lube is grim, though I can see how its tempting to leave it on. We have all done it.

    You forgot to add the 'IMO' to this

    Others have different views.......

    The above isn't opinion, it's fact.
    Blog on my first and now second season of proper riding/racing - www.firstseasonracing.com
  • svettysvetty Posts: 1,904
    okgo wrote:
    svetty wrote:
    okgo wrote:
    You are meant to degrease the chain straight away from the factory as that lube is not only very slow, but also sucks up ALL the shoot from the road. Having looked into squirt recently, it needs to be topped up every 100 miles, and left to dry.

    Though the first time you put it on a clean chain you need to put a lot on, leave it for a while to dry, then put another bit on to get a base layer, then just top up as above. The factory lube is grim, though I can see how its tempting to leave it on. We have all done it.

    You forgot to add the 'IMO' to this

    Others have different views.......

    The above isn't opinion, it's fact.
    Mwahahahahaha....
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    okgo wrote:
    svetty wrote:
    okgo wrote:
    You are meant to degrease the chain straight away from the factory as that lube is not only very slow, but also sucks up ALL the shoot from the road. Having looked into squirt recently, it needs to be topped up every 100 miles, and left to dry.

    Though the first time you put it on a clean chain you need to put a lot on, leave it for a while to dry, then put another bit on to get a base layer, then just top up as above. The factory lube is grim, though I can see how its tempting to leave it on. We have all done it.

    You forgot to add the 'IMO' to this

    Others have different views.......

    The above isn't opinion, it's fact.


    yeah, right

    #yeah,right
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • okgookgo Posts: 4,368
    What are you disputing?

    The original lube is slow, and picks up loads of censored .
    Blog on my first and now second season of proper riding/racing - www.firstseasonracing.com
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    nah. its as "fast" as anything else, doesn't pick up trash any better or any worse than anything else, is perfectly fine - in fact some say its the best coating.

    if PRO teams don't feel the need to degrease it off it proves its fine.

    how much "faster" is your lube out of interest? please quantify your "faster" and provide solid, source evidence. "the bloke at the shop/club told me" isn't good enough.

    #nah
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • imposter2.0imposter2.0 Posts: 11,028
    okgo wrote:
    You are meant to degrease the chain straight away from the factory as that lube is not only very slow, but also sucks up ALL the shoot from the road.

    If this was even vaguely accurate (which it isn't) you'd think that new chains would come with instructions to this effect...
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    but thats what the bloke at the shop who sold him the lube said and its what all the fast lads at the club on the Sunday run and use and the stuff that comes on the chain slows you down so much

    #speedychain
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • svettysvetty Posts: 1,904
    okgo wrote:
    You are meant to degrease the chain straight away from the factory as that lube is not only very slow, but also sucks up ALL the shoot from the road.

    I always wondered what 'chain-suck' meant and now I know :roll: :roll: :lol::lol:
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • joey54321joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    nah. its as "fast" as anything else, doesn't pick up trash any better or any worse than anything else, is perfectly fine - in fact some say its the best coating.

    if PRO teams don't feel the need to degrease it off it proves its fine.

    how much "faster" is your lube out of interest? please quantify your "faster" and provide solid, source evidence. "the bloke at the shop/club told me" isn't good enough.

    #nah

    What makes you think pro teams don't degrease the manufacturing grease off? Tbh, given the relationship between groupset sponsors and teams I'd be very surprised if the chains the pro teams used have ever gone anywhere near the same factory grease that the commercially bought chains have on.
  • imposter2.0imposter2.0 Posts: 11,028
    joey54321 wrote:
    What makes you think pro teams don't degrease the manufacturing grease off? Tbh, given the relationship between groupset sponsors and teams I'd be very surprised if the chains the pro teams used have ever gone anywhere near the same factory grease that the commercially bought chains have on.

    They use the same chains, from the same production line - so no reason to think they are treated any different. How individual mechanics deal with the chains once the bag is opened is another matter entirely...
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Imposter wrote:
    joey54321 wrote:
    What makes you think pro teams don't degrease the manufacturing grease off? Tbh, given the relationship between groupset sponsors and teams I'd be very surprised if the chains the pro teams used have ever gone anywhere near the same factory grease that the commercially bought chains have on.

    They use the same chains, from the same production line - so no reason to think they are treated any different. How individual mechanics deal with the chains once the bag is opened is another matter entirely...

    as imposter said but as no one has ever reported on anything like you say ever ever then we all think you are wrong.

    #wrong
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    still waiting for your evidence on fastnesd by the way.

    #fast
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • I use Squirt on my bikes and always thoroughly and completely degrease/remove factory grease then apply to sparkling clean chain. Then clean chain rings, cassette and jockey wheels. Then put new, freshly Squirted chain on bike.
  • Dry lube is rubbish.

    Wet lube all year round...
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I used to think the factory applied stuff was mainly to keep the shiny new chain corrosion free in storage / distribution. In spite of its gloopy nature and tendency to attract muck I never bothered stripping a new one because I thought it was probably doing a good job lubricating the internal parts of the chain. If / when it got mucky I'd just wipe it down with a bit of white spirit on a rag, and once it started sounding noisy I'd start to lubricate it, sparingly, with a light oil.

    Had a couple of experiments with dry lubes many years ago and wasn't impressed.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    I use Squirt on my bikes and always thoroughly and completely degrease/remove factory grease then apply to sparkling clean chain. Then clean chain rings, cassette and jockey wheels. Then put new, freshly Squirted chain on bike.

    Do you recommend Squirt?
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • I use Squirt on my bikes and always thoroughly and completely degrease/remove factory grease then apply to sparkling clean chain. Then clean chain rings, cassette and jockey wheels. Then put new, freshly Squirted chain on bike.

    Do you recommend Squirt?

    Yep, I'm sure there's other stuff equally as good but seems good to me and keeps chain clean. Not recommended for wet use but as I mainly only ride in the dry it's good.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    cool - have you used it for long? recommended from a friend?
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • cyclecliniccycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    I leave the factory lube on always. Rock n roll gold for me. I relube every few hundred km when it's dry. In fact i last lubed then Sarto 700km ago. No squeaks yet. Got a 320km audax tomorrow
    So that will be a 1000km I might relube after that.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • donboogiedonboogie Posts: 75
    How do you apply the Rock n Roll Gold? Seems quite thin to try to apply to each link individually. Do you just dump it on the cassette while reverse spinning the cranks?
  • cool - have you used it for long? recommended from a friend?

    About 3 years, saw a recommendation on the RCUK forum and thought I'd try it. So far so good, quiet and clean and various tests show it as good if not better ie less drag than wet lube. That's not the reason I use it though as differences in drag coefficient are marginal so that's not going to be crucial for me. I like it because it's environmentally better and is cleaner on the bike. If you read various reviews etc some people swear by it and others don't rate it at all. Pretty much like most things in life! Anyway, seems good to me so I'll use until something definitely better comes along.
  • cyclecliniccycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    The instruction are on the bottle. apply while back pedalling, get the chain wet with it. You don't need to apply much then wipe clean while back pedalling. Shine up each link. I think my campag 11 speed chain on the Sarto/campag promo bike has 3500 km on it it not worn out yet.

    RnR lubes maybe thin bit they seem to work. Oil to me is worst thing to put on an exposed Chain. Fine on enclosed chains like a car timing chain.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • andyh01andyh01 Posts: 571
    I was about to ask best advice /lube for a new ultegra groupset.

    I've always been under the impression from new chain will be at its best lubed clean state and get worse from there.
    I'm always dubious about deep cleaning chains on the basis it'll be difficult to fully get the lube back in all the pins.

    So wet or dry lube for this time of year on a commuting bike?
  • shirley_bassoshirley_basso Posts: 3,677
    Jesus Christ.

    Apply lube. When chain dries out apply some more. Maybe clean the chain if it gets gunky if not it's no big deal.
  • AlejandrosdogAlejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    Jesus Christ.

    Apply lube. When chain dries out apply some more. Maybe clean the chain if it gets gunky if not it's no big deal.

    This :)
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