I need help with buying a new bottom bracket (BB30)

vault94

I was biking last week and halfway through my ride my bottom bracket area starting making a noise, I carried on and did another 10 miles and it gradually got worse, every couple of turns was a really loud squealing sound.

I know sometimes it can be other problems like loose bolts, pedals etc. But either way I took of the crank (which was seized up, I needed to get my compressor out and oil to get it out)

Inside the bearings were all rusted, not what I expected from something with less than 3,000 miles of use.

I'm just going to replace the bottom bracket bearings, I have never done this before so I'm pretty clueless about what i should be buying.

I have a ParkTool press already and I have ordered a bb30 removal tool. I just don't know what bottom bracket to order

Here are a few photos of my bottom bracket.
https://imgur.com/a/7wj744U

It's a FSA Gossamer Crank set, the bike is a 2015 Boardman team carbon

The black bottom bracket ring says
BB30 B3155

The white bearings say
BB30
6806-2RS
MR149

The Crank says
0116S

The removable washers say
MS233

I was looking at this

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/fsa-pf30-road- ... b+Networks

or something like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/FSA-BB30-Road- ... 48&sr=8-16


Thanks

sungod

image shows pf30 (bb30 bearing in a larger plastic shell that is then pressed in, pf == press fit)

simplest is get the complete pf30 one you link to on wiggle

that corrosion on the axle isn't good, try to clean it without further damage to the areas where it contacts the bearings, when fitting smear axle and bearing inners with waterproof grease

bearing seals aren't perfect, water will get behind the shields and then seep in, some frames may allow water to enter the bb shell and pool, then it also gets in from the inner side of the bearings

packing the bearings with a good waterproof grease can extend the running time - by default bearings aren't fully packed with grease, and the grease may not be that good in the wet - if you pack them, some excess grease will ooze out of time, that's fine

if you ride in the wet a lot, may as well fully grease the new ones before fitting

you can clean/regrease bearings in-place...

remove the outer seal on a bearing using a fine pick, be careful not to bend/tear the seal

if they are dry/dirty, use a solvent spray to flush out the old grease and dirt, then leave until the solvent has evaporated

squish in the new grease

replace the seal and press it gently into place all the way around


btw 6806-2RS is the code for bearing size and shield type (6806 is the size, 2rs == two rubber seals), if you wanted to replace just the bearings you can use this code to order from bearing suppliers

vault94

sungod wrote:

image shows pf30 (bb30 bearing in a larger plastic shell that is then pressed in, pf == press fit)

simplest is get the complete pf30 one you link to on wiggle

that corrosion on the axle isn't good, try to clean it without further damage to the areas where it contacts the bearings, when fitting smear axle and bearing inners with waterproof grease

bearing seals aren't perfect, water will get behind the shields and then seep in, some frames may allow water to enter the bb shell and pool, then it also gets in from the inner side of the bearings

packing the bearings with a good waterproof grease can extend the running time - by default bearings aren't fully packed with grease, and the grease may not be that good in the wet - if you pack them, some excess grease will ooze out of time, that's fine

if you ride in the wet a lot, may as well fully grease the new ones before fitting

you can clean/regrease bearings in-place...

remove the outer seal on a bearing using a fine pick, be careful not to bend/tear the seal

if they are dry/dirty, use a solvent spray to flush out the old grease and dirt, then leave until the solvent has evaporated

squish in the new grease

replace the seal and press it gently into place all the way around


btw 6806-2RS is the code for bearing size and shield type (6806 is the size, 2rs == two rubber seals), if you wanted to replace just the bearings you can use this code to order from bearing suppliers

Thank you for your help. I have gone ahead and ordered the full bottom bracket along with one of these bearing removal tools which I think removes the bearings

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa ... -prod36371

I already have a park Tool HHP-3

Do the plastic cups that hold the bearings come out easily or is there a tool for that?

I will clean the rust off the crank with some steel wool and re-grease. Do you think FinishLine Teflon grease will be okay? I have ordered some copper grease for the chainring bolts however I'm not sure if it's for moving parts.

Thanks

sungod

pf30 removal/fitting https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... rvice-pf30

don't use steel wool on an aluminium crank, tiny bits of steel may embed, then if it gets wet they'll corrode and pit the surface

the contact surfaces are a precision fit, you need to avoid damaging them

try scrubbing the rusty area with coca-cola (maybe there's enough phosphoric acid to help), wouldn't use anything more than a scotch brite/similar plastic scouring pad, and be gentle with that

copper loaded grease is not for moving parts, on a bike main use is as anti-seize between dissimilar metals, especially parts that are likely to have years between disassembly

the finish line might be ok, never tried it though, fwiw i use skf lghp2 (sram/others recommend this) a cartridge will last a long time... https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p2101 ... _info.html

pinno

Someone has nicked the shift and full stop buttons from Sungod's computer.