Bought my first ever road/adventure bike.

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Comments

  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Sandyballs wrote:
    Whilst the wink is friendly it’s hardly a succinct answer to a newbie asking for advice unfamiliar with road geometry.

    You can't argue it wasn't succinct. It certainly was. Clearly not complete to yours or the OP's satisfaction though...
  • Bongofish wrote:
    So I got the boardman ADV 8.8 yesterday at my local Halfords for £550. They added discounts on top of discounts so can’t go wrong!

    Anyway on the website it states that large was for my height size (6 foot) but I was surprised to see that on the bike where it says large underneath it , it says 55.5? When I was looking at road bikes it looked like I needed a 58cm bike for my height size from other manufacturers.

    Any reason why boardman suggests 55.5 to be the right size for 6 foot? Are there sizing a different? Are adventure bikes different to road bikes in terms of what size you need?

    https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/ ... 3GEALw_wcB

    Cheers

    Bike sizing and fit is fairly complex and depends on several parameters If you get a proper geometry chart there will be a load of figures on it. The two figures that give a good indication of the bike’s relative size and fit are the stack and the reach figures. There are one or two other measurements which are useful as well but stack and reach are usually considered the best baseline figures to use as a comparison as far as relative fit goes.

    please ignore this.

    Why would they ignore this, you massive cockroach. Obviously you have no clue about anything, in common with about 4 of your clown boyfriends. You have no experience, you have no knowledge, why don’t you just fcuk off?

    Has anyone here ever managed to get some one to actually fúck off merely by telling them to do so? Often in a situation where I want or require someone to fúck off, its usually much more efficient for me to fúck off myself. But then I never have been one for dealing with people. It will end up with me losing my temper and smacking someone so that is why its better for me to do the off fúkcing. Ignore features are a useful tool on most forums too.
  • Bongofish wrote:
    Ok....I’m sure you all have your points and the forums has some ‘trollss’ But to get the thread back on point,

    I went out on my first proper ride today on it. Well 15 miles at least and totally worked out I was doing it wrong my first try. I thought I had to ride with my hands on the drops all the time. This time I figured out that riding on top of the drop bars was much easier and still had access to brakes and gears and then when going downhill and gaining speed I would go to drops for more Aerodynamic position and then back on top for 90%. My only issues are the brakes they are just not very good. I’m used to hydraulic brakes on all my bikes so this might be doing me no favours. But even if I squeeze these hard it’s hard to make the tyres actually skid. Just a relatively fast slow down but wouldn’t stop you in a emergency. I feel I have bedded them in properly too. Also secondly riding on top of the drop bars I do have access to the brakes but just enough to pull them with like 2 fingers and definitely can’t get any power on pulling the brakes.

    Any recommendations for these issues?

    Also I absolutely loved my ride today, hills felt so much easier, still tired but not bouncing a bike around, every stroke feels like it propels the bike forward.

    I ride on the drops pretty much all the time. I simply prefer it that way, even when commuting. Must be a personal thing altho I do like to be more aero when road riding.

    In my experience, poor braking is down to brake levers or brake calipers that are not very good. Changing brake pads can make a significant improvement but if the brake system itself is crap, then nowt will work.

    Some things to check:

    Brake pad clearance
    Brake caliper alignment
    Braking surfaces are clean and free of contaminants. Even just a bit of WD40 can completely ruin pads, requiring replacement. Use brake cleaner to clean rims/discs if you suspect this before installing new pads.
    Rim brakes are supposed to be rubbish in the wet :)

    You say your used to hydros, cable brakes will often feel inadequate by comparison. I have hydros on my MTB and cable brakes don't generally feel as good. However the 105 cable brakes on my Ceepo road bike feel pretty close altho still rubbish in the wet.
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Has anyone here ever managed to get some one to actually fúck off merely by telling them to do so?

    Unfortunately not. However, in the case of 'yournemesis' - not even banning him is working. He's been banned eight times now, and still he keeps coming back...
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Which is hilarious, given my experience and knowledge,

    Spot on. Your 'experience and knowledge' is utterly hilarious. As you keep on proving...
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,866
    Bongofish wrote:
    I went out on my first proper ride today on it. Well 15 miles at least and totally worked out I was doing it wrong my first try. I thought I had to ride with my hands on the drops all the time. This time I figured out that riding on top of the drop bars was much easier and still had access to brakes and gears and then when going downhill and gaining speed I would go to drops for more Aerodynamic position and then back on top for 90%. My only issues are the brakes they are just not very good. I’m used to hydraulic brakes on all my bikes so this might be doing me no favours. But even if I squeeze these hard it’s hard to make the tyres actually skid. Just a relatively fast slow down but wouldn’t stop you in a emergency. I feel I have bedded them in properly too. Also secondly riding on top of the drop bars I do have access to the brakes but just enough to pull them with like 2 fingers and definitely can’t get any power on pulling the brakes.

    Any recommendations for these issues?

    Also I absolutely loved my ride today, hills felt so much easier, still tired but not bouncing a bike around, every stroke feels like it propels the bike forward.
    That sounds more like it, I also ride on the hoods most of the time. The brakes will never be as good as those on an mountain bike, but they should work better than it sounds like at the moment. You could adjust the brakes a little to see if you can get a better angle on them. I find a bit of free play means that the kever comes in a bit closer so I can pull on it harder if necessary. Although this may or may not be possible depending on your set up. Hope that makes sense.
    Not much I can say about the derailments, carry on ignoring them as you are is the best bet. Hopefully others wil lfollow suit.
  • lakesluddite
    lakesluddite Posts: 1,337
    I find that with disc brakes, I can usually get away with braking from the hoods, but with a long or steep downhill section, then I would need to get into the drops to create more leverage and braking power. This is for both rim and hydro brakes that I have on different bikes.
    Also, as someone else posted, I do 90% of my riding on the hoods - only ever in the drops when in the situation above, or trying to get a bit more aero (although some would argue that grabbing the hoods and dropping the elbows down so that they are parallel with the road works better).
    Not sure what width of bars came with the ADV, but if you still find them too narrow, you can always swap them out for wider bars.