Rockshox front lockout
nbuuifx
Posts: 302
I have rockshox recon 351 u turn coil forks on my MTB.
I had a couple of niggles with them. I think I've sorted most things out but have one niggle left.
The blue crown that you turn to lockout is too easy to turn. It works correctly. If I turn it to unlock the fork goes all the way up and down. If I turn it to lock then it just moved a small amount as expected.
My problem is that because it moves so easily it changes the setting whilst going over bumps. It only ever seems to lock itself, but then I go over bumpy ground with it unlocked. I took the circlip off hoping to see something but the circlip just holds the blue adjuster onto the top of a nut. That nut is still easy to turn with fingers.
I had a couple of niggles with them. I think I've sorted most things out but have one niggle left.
The blue crown that you turn to lockout is too easy to turn. It works correctly. If I turn it to unlock the fork goes all the way up and down. If I turn it to lock then it just moved a small amount as expected.
My problem is that because it moves so easily it changes the setting whilst going over bumps. It only ever seems to lock itself, but then I go over bumpy ground with it unlocked. I took the circlip off hoping to see something but the circlip just holds the blue adjuster onto the top of a nut. That nut is still easy to turn with fingers.
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Comments
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Pop an O-ring underneath it to add friction.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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The Rookie wrote:Pop an O-ring underneath it to add friction.
I've got rebound set as fast as possible does that sound correct? If I put it on slow rebound it makes a squelch sound when rebounding. I've also got it set at max length for travel.0 -
No rebound shouldn’t be set as fast as possible, why otherwise is there adjustment? Around mid way is a good place to start.
Squelching can be a low damper oil level or due to water contamination, or cavitation just happens, of itself it’s not an issue.
Yes the o-ring is there to add friction so the knob doesn’t turn uninrtentionally as yours is doing now you’ve taken it out, again it’s there for a reason.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0