How long do your components last?

rick_chasey

Edit - fat finger

gbsahne001

I've never checked for chain wear either, other than looking at the state of the chain and know that at or about the 3,000mile mark I can get away with changing the chain without the cassette. Much beyond this and I get issues with the cassette slipping.

I rarely change chain rings either, the last chain ring I changed had probably circa 20,000miles on it. The road bike has approx. 7,000miles on it at the moment.

cruff

gbsahne wrote:

I've never checked for chain wear either, other than looking at the state of the chain and know that at or about the 3,000mile mark I can get away with changing the chain without the cassette. Much beyond this and I get issues with the cassette slipping.

I rarely change chain rings either, the last chain ring I changed had probably circa 20,000miles on it. The road bike has approx. 7,000miles on it at the moment.

Chainrings are a bone of contention for me. Proper Ultegra and 105 last aeons (never used Dura-Ace so no personal comparison, but a mate of mine who is a former elite swears he got through two 53t Dura-Ace rings in a season cos they wear like they're made of toffee)

FSA, however, are, frankly, sh1te. Have worn two of them out after less than 10000 miles each - shark-toothed and slipping off under load. Never again.

rower63

ugo.santalucia wrote:

I never quite understood the point of measuring chain elongation. ... Secondly, the myth that an elongated chain will wear out other components quicker and lead to other catastrophic consequences is just that, a myth...

That elongated chains damage components, specifically rear sprockets, is not a myth.
Until recently I’d ride a chain and cassette together until the chain started skipping. These comprise most of the “2.5-2.7k mile” chains in my data.
The elongation at that point was generally 0.75-1%, measured when I laid the old and new side by side to check how many links to remove on the new one.
Putting a new chain on just such an old cassette resulted in continuous skipping, i.e. no drive at all in all the middle sprockets. I only tried this once, just before a longish weekend ride: I had to do the whole ride at one end of the cassette or the other. By the end of the ride, 3 hours or so, some of the sprockets that were not skipping to start with were by the end.
So out of curiosity I bought a chain-checker “calibrated” to slip through at, apparently, 0.5% and 0.75%. Obviously I measured it to see how accurate it was, I’d read they were a bit variable: it turned out that 0.5% on that tool actually slipped through at just under 0.4%.
I’m now in the process of finding out whether swapping chains when my checking-tool shows 0.5% results in my cassette lasting longer. It’s worth a try as Chorus 11s cassettes cost £80+, chains £20. If not, or even anyway, I might also try to rotate 3 chains on a single cassette.

rick_chasey

So I would imagine for a given power, lower rpm is marginally less wear than a high rpm.

ugo.santalucia

rower63 wrote:

ugo.santalucia wrote:

I never quite understood the point of measuring chain elongation. ... Secondly, the myth that an elongated chain will wear out other components quicker and lead to other catastrophic consequences is just that, a myth...

That elongated chains damage components, specifically rear sprockets, is not a myth.
Until recently I’d ride a chain and cassette together until the chain started skipping. These comprise most of the “2.5-2.7k mile” chains in my data.
The elongation at that point was generally 0.75-1%, measured when I laid the old and new side by side to check how many links to remove on the new one.
Putting a new chain on just such an old cassette resulted in continuous skipping, i.e. no drive at all in all the middle sprockets. I only tried this once, just before a longish weekend ride: I had to do the whole ride at one end of the cassette or the other. By the end of the ride, 3 hours or so, some of the sprockets that were not skipping to start with were by the end.
So out of curiosity I bought a chain-checker “calibrated” to slip through at, apparently, 0.5% and 0.75%. Obviously I measured it to see how accurate it was, I’d read they were a bit variable: it turned out that 0.5% on that tool actually slipped through at just under 0.4%.
I’m now in the process of finding out whether swapping chains when my checking-tool shows 0.5% results in my cassette lasting longer. It’s worth a try as Chorus 11s cassettes cost £80+, chains £20. If not, or even anyway, I might also try to rotate 3 chains on a single cassette.

When I was on Campagnolo, I too had a lot of grief from chain/sprockets interface... it all disappeared by buying budget Shimano components... I now run a mix of 105 and Tiagra, mixed with an XT derailleur and it's all very much bulletproof and flawless...
Maybe there is a lesson to be learnt there...

tgotb

Rick Chasey wrote:

So I would imagine for a given power, lower rpm is marginally less wear than a high rpm.

Why?

You may well be right, but I think we established on the previous page of this thread that we don't do "The answer is X because I think it is"...

rick_chasey

TGOTB wrote:

Rick Chasey wrote:

So I would imagine for a given power, lower rpm is marginally less wear than a high rpm.

Why?

You may well be right, but I think we established on the previous page of this thread that we don't do "The answer is X because I think it is"...

Assuming no breakage, surely there would be less friction as everything is moving less.

Now granted, if you take your simple friction equation, for a lower rpm and thus higher torque there is higher internal friction within the chain, but I would imagine that is counteracted and some by the friction of the chain coming on and off the sprockets.

cycleclinic

I think high rpm ( lower torque) means slower wear rates.

I have never found an issue with Shimano or campagnolo cassettes. If I used a lower gear I would probably get more miles from my chains and cassettes.

The one thing I have noticed cheap Shimano cassettes are just as good as the expensive ones.

Chainrings last ages though except my MTB rings. I have been through a few xtr rings

elbowloh

thecycleclinic wrote:

I think high rpm ( lower torque) means slower wear rates.

I have never found an issue with Shimano or campagnolo cassettes. If I used a lower gear I would probably get more miles from my chains and cassettes.

The one thing I have noticed cheap Shimano cassettes are just as good as the expensive ones.

Chainrings last ages though except my MTB rings. I have been through a few xtr rings

Do cassettes were out or is it just a few cogs out of 10 or 11?

Do people spend most of their rides in just 1 or 2 cogs?

Should we vary our RPM to reduce wear?

Is this post tongue in cheek or is it strangely insightful?

inbike

I haven't had to change a chain on my commuter since putting a very long front mudguard on my bike.

That was 5,000 miles / 20 months ago. It's still showing less than 0.5% wear on an ultegra 11s chain despite never being cleaned and only being lubed once every 1-2 months.

The mudguard is so long the flap almost touches the ground behind the front wheel.

Edit: the power meter shows I reach 800-1,000w pulling away from the lights and 600+ on most bridges thanks to the added weight of the child seat and toddler. I used to go through chains and cassettes every 3-6 months.

anonymousblackfg

All this just makes me realise how little I sort things until they explode.

Brake rotor worn so thin the pads cant grab it
Broken chain
Brake track blow out
Big ring implosion taking the crank spider with it

Else, it's normally replacing Sram BB's with new Sram BBs made of similar cheeses

tgotb

anonymousblackfg wrote:

Brake rotor worn so thin the pads cant grab it

How else are you supposed to know they need replacing?

This happens sufficiently infrequently that I always forget about it as a possible reason for brakes not working. Last time I wore a rotor out, I actually got as far as bleeding the (bleeding) hydraulics before the penny dropped...

timothyw

I think it's probably a decent idea to err on the side of caution with brake rotors.

They aren't particularly expensive, and if one did fail you could fairly easily lock up your wheel and cause quite a lot of damage, one way or another, to the bike or your face.

greenamex2

inbike wrote:

I haven't had to change a chain on my commuter since putting a very long front mudguard on my bike.

That was 5,000 miles / 20 months ago. It's still showing less than 0.5% wear on an ultegra 11s chain despite never being cleaned and only being lubed once every 1-2 months.

The mudguard is so long the flap almost touches the ground behind the front wheel.

Edit: the power meter shows I reach 800-1,000w pulling away from the lights and 600+ on most bridges thanks to the added weight of the child seat and toddler. I used to go through chains and cassettes every 3-6 months.

What chain lube do you use?

cruff

greenamex2 wrote:

inbike wrote:

I haven't had to change a chain on my commuter since putting a very long front mudguard on my bike.

That was 5,000 miles / 20 months ago. It's still showing less than 0.5% wear on an ultegra 11s chain despite never being cleaned and only being lubed once every 1-2 months.

The mudguard is so long the flap almost touches the ground behind the front wheel.

Edit: the power meter shows I reach 800-1,000w pulling away from the lights and 600+ on most bridges thanks to the added weight of the child seat and toddler. I used to go through chains and cassettes every 3-6 months.

What chain lube do you use?

A bloody good one, if there's less than 0.5% wear after 5000 miles...

UndercoverElephant

inbike wrote:

I haven't had to change a chain on my commuter since putting a very long front mudguard on my bike.

That was 5,000 miles / 20 months ago. It's still showing less than 0.5% wear on an ultegra 11s chain despite never being cleaned and only being lubed once every 1-2 months.

The mudguard is so long the flap almost touches the ground behind the front wheel.

I like big flaps and I cannot lie.

rick_chasey

So what’s the forum verdict on chain wear at different rpm but same power?

N0bodyOfTheGoat

Rick Chasey wrote:

So what’s the forum verdict on chain wear at different rpm but same power?

Spinners create more chain/chainring interactions, so more wear?

froze

Depends on how well you maintain your bike.

I don't have exact part by part break down, but I usually get about 4,500 miles (yes I'm in America) on tires, 10,000 miles on chains, 30,000 miles on rear gears and rims, 40,000 on chainrings, 6 to 7 seasons on cables, 60,000 miles on hub bearings, never had a headset bearing wear out or the BB wear out. I have one bike that has vintage Suntour Superbe components that have over 160,000 miles and never had to replace a bearing, just lube and go, nor replace a component.

Like I said if you maintain your bike there isn't any reason why you can't ride your bike for at least another 20 years before you need to upgrade parts due to wear out. People who only get 3,000 miles out of chains are doing something wrong, either they are cross chaining, or they don't keep the chain clean and lubed frequently enough. Typically your rear gears will last 3 times longer than the chain, but if you wait too long with replacing a chain you will wear out your gears faster, this is why I measure my chain twice a year.

jgsi

froze wrote:

Depends on how well you maintain your bike.

I don't have exact part by part break down, but I usually get about 4,500 miles (yes I'm in America) on tires, 10,000 miles on chains, 30,000 miles on rear gears and rims, 40,000 on chainrings, 6 to 7 seasons on cables, 60,000 miles on hub bearings, never had a headset bearing wear out or the BB wear out. I have one bike that has vintage Suntour Superbe components that have over 160,000 miles and never had to replace a bearing, just lube and go, nor replace a component.

Like I said if you maintain your bike there isn't any reason why you can't ride your bike for at least another 20 years before you need to upgrade parts due to wear out. People who only get 3,000 miles out of chains are doing something wrong, either they are cross chaining, or they don't keep the chain clean and lubed frequently enough. Typically your rear gears will last 3 times longer than the chain, but if you wait too long with replacing a chain you will wear out your gears faster, this is why I measure my chain twice a year.

Running a 7/8block?
No real wonder you get a chain life over 10 /11/now 12 speed components and the rest.
I use the agricultural 105 on my commuter and it takes a hammering at this time of the year on UK winter urban roads - constantly wet, filthy and gritty... and yes after such rides every single of the day it is time out of my precious free time to keep the bike up to standard so that I can rely on it in the morning.

rhodrich

froze wrote:

Depends on how well you maintain your bike.

I don't have exact part by part break down, but I usually get about 4,500 miles (yes I'm in America) on tires, 10,000 miles on chains, 30,000 miles on rear gears and rims, 40,000 on chainrings, 6 to 7 seasons on cables, 60,000 miles on hub bearings, never had a headset bearing wear out or the BB wear out. I have one bike that has vintage Suntour Superbe components that have over 160,000 miles and never had to replace a bearing, just lube and go, nor replace a component.

Like I said if you maintain your bike there isn't any reason why you can't ride your bike for at least another 20 years before you need to upgrade parts due to wear out. People who only get 3,000 miles out of chains are doing something wrong, either they are cross chaining, or they don't keep the chain clean and lubed frequently enough. Typically your rear gears will last 3 times longer than the chain, but if you wait too long with replacing a chain you will wear out your gears faster, this is why I measure my chain twice a year.

Ah - I'd have to ask you where in America you live? The UK, with its 'Rust Belt' maritime climate is a LOT tougher on bikes than a dry state. Over the winter, we salt our roads, and we salt them well! For about half the year, he roads never truly dry out, and a mixture of water/salt/grit is constantly attacking your bike and components. Under those conditions, even with mudguards, components get covered in a salty gritty gunge that's highly corrosive and abrasive. I ride almost exclusively fixed gear, and my chain is a 1/8", with a perfect chainline (no cross chaining to worry about!). Even so, 3,000 miles is the best I'm going to get out of one over the winter. Even if you take your chain off every evening to clean it, it'll be filthy again by the next day. The same goes for everything else. 30,000 miles on a rim? Only if you never ride in the wet!

mtb-idle

its a bit like the Strava Festive 500 (ride 500km between 24 to 31 December).

Now I love our American & Australian cousins but the year I slogged my guts out through cold, sleet and rain in southern England to just about hit 500km only to look at the leader board and see guys (and girls) riding 2,000km+ in sunny California or Adelaide made it seem a tad unfair #wholedifferentballgame

mtb-idle

(with apologies to @froze if you live in Portland or Seattle)

tgotb

The mileage you get from a set of rims (assuming rim brakes) will also depend how much braking you do. On the TT bike I expect my pads and rims to last effectively for ever, because I might only use the brakes 2 or 3 times a week, and can easily go 25 miles at a time without touching them at all.
At the other extreme, on the CX bikes I've worn right through a set of organic disc brake pads in half an hour flat (guessing 8 miles) and destroyed a set of hub bearings over about the same distance.

roger_merriman

TGOTB wrote:

The mileage you get from a set of rims (assuming rim brakes) will also depend how much braking you do. On the TT bike I expect my pads and rims to last effectively for ever, because I might only use the brakes 2 or 3 times a week, and can easily go 25 miles at a time without touching them at all.
At the other extreme, on the CX bikes I've worn right through a set of organic disc brake pads in half an hour flat (guessing 8 miles) and destroyed a set of hub bearings over about the same distance.

Not quite sure why but the gravel bike and CX bike before that, neither I did any CX on, bridleway and lanes, eats pads be that disk or rim far faster than the MTB which if anything is used in far worse conditions. Though it has Hydraulic vs Cable on the gravel/CX bikes.

The three bikes I have do seem have different wear some of it is maintainence ie the commute bike doesn’t get cleaned etc every ride.

ugo.santalucia

MTB-Idle wrote:

its a bit like the Strava Festive 500 (ride 500km between 24 to 31 December).

Now I love our American & Australian cousins but the year I slogged my guts out through cold, sleet and rain in southern England to just about hit 500km only to look at the leader board and see guys (and girls) riding 2,000km+ in sunny California or Adelaide made it seem a tad unfair #wholedifferentballgame

Still happening... I thought there was a rule on the Rapha challenge about being in the northern hemisphere, but the Strava thing is open to anyone

itboffin

i think they now have a north and south version, same as you MTB-Idle, i said never again that year of back to back storms and i meant it

ugo.santalucia

in the top 20 there are 4 Europeans... there are also loads of Australians...

rick_chasey

Surely Christmas is one of the few times of year when you really should have better things to do than cycle for hours?