Squealing Ultegra disc brakes

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Comments

  • haydenm
    haydenm Posts: 2,997
    cougie wrote:
    Svetty wrote:
    mlan wrote:
    Looks like Plodder nailed it. Left some tissue in all day and took it out to find a fairly clear two piston pattern of leakage. So glad to have finally found the problem - it's been driving me nuts for ages! Will look into warranty but if it will take a while I'm just gonna buy new ones.

    Thanks for all the help!
    Glad you've arrived at a diagnosis. As someone who has yet to buy a disc braked bike, stories like this don't exactly encourage me to migrate from rim brakes but perhaps I am just a luddite?

    You and me both. Maybe it's a learning curve thing but rim brakes have always been so easy to sort in the past. I'm certainly not rushing to replace my bikes.

    This seems like a quieter place to have a more measured discussion on discs!

    I think part of it is learning curve and/or perception, these sorts of stories would garner a lot less fuss (not in a negative way) and the answer would probably come out quite quickly on the mtb forum (no evidence for this other than my genius guess on the 1st page).

    There is a much finer line between the pros and cons on shiny carbon bikes only used on dry days. Even as a disc advocate I don't have them on my new 'summer' bike, I'd like them but I'm not paying significantly more for it. I only bought my new bike because the frame was 40% of RRP and I wasn't buying new wheels or groupset at the time. If both full builds were the same price (and on a cracking deal) then I'd pick discs but there is definitely a balance.

    Also, on all of my mtbs in the last 10 years I have done nothing but change pads every so often, even on the basic shimano hydraulic discs on the OH's £500 hardtail. (I did have one set of sram brakes bled at the shop before a race actually, sram have a rep for being slightly unreliable in mtbs though). Fit and forget as far as I'm concerned, despite the battering they get. In contrast, the mechanical discs that came on my £1000 touring bike, and the inline rim brakes on my aero bike have been much more hassle (especially the stupid aero bike).
  • mlan
    mlan Posts: 15
    cougie wrote:
    Svetty wrote:
    mlan wrote:
    Looks like Plodder nailed it. Left some tissue in all day and took it out to find a fairly clear two piston pattern of leakage. So glad to have finally found the problem - it's been driving me nuts for ages! Will look into warranty but if it will take a while I'm just gonna buy new ones.

    Thanks for all the help!
    Glad you've arrived at a diagnosis. As someone who has yet to buy a disc braked bike, stories like this don't exactly encourage me to migrate from rim brakes but perhaps I am just a luddite?

    You and me both. Maybe it's a learning curve thing but rim brakes have always been so easy to sort in the past. I'm certainly not rushing to replace my bikes.

    Having almost always used discs I saw them as the familiar territory for me. I guess the hydraulics mean they are more of a pain in some ways but having experienced some cable Avids on a bike with drop outs I would never not go hydraulic!
  • simplyjoew4ll
    simplyjoew4ll Posts: 1
    @mlan thanks for your post on this - I've had to bite the bullet and get new calipers. I too had the issue of the retaining screw ceasing in the caliper - why would they design it like that?!?! Years and years of mtb disc brakes with no issues at all - is it because they're flat mounted I wonder?
    Any way, I hope your second set of calipers lasted better and I'm looking forward to quieter and stronger brakes again
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    The Shimano pad retaining bolts are made of cheese. It is very easy to mangle the flat head screw slot. You should put a bit of anti-seize on the thread before putting them in and tightening them. I’ve never had one seize having done this.

    PP
  • david37
    david37 Posts: 1,313
    pilot_pete said:

    The Shimano pad retaining bolts are made of cheese. It is very easy to mangle the flat head screw slot. You should put a bit of anti-seize on the thread before putting them in and tightening them. I’ve never had one seize having done this.

    PP

    This but with a suggestion that people use the right size screwdrivers and only then if they are in good nick.
  • plodder73
    plodder73 Posts: 326
    My pins also seized so replaced them with hex bolt ones. They sell them at Wiggle, they are called pad axles. Much better design

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