Lower back discomfort (new bike)

ridgeway_swiss
ridgeway_swiss Posts: 146
Recently switched from a classic CX bike (higher front end and shorter) that was overall very comfortable to a Cervélo C3 (endurance/light gravel) about 7wks back and set it up as close as possible to my CX bike position although in truth it was still quite different, more stretched out (longer stem), lower front end and overall a better road position where wind is an enemy unlike in the forest, fields where it's less of an issue.

I found a nice saddle position and kept the stem quite high with a view to slowly lower that over time. Actually I started with the saddle about 20mm lower than what seemed the perfect height and gradually increased it over a few weeks.

Since the start i had some back discomfort which i assumed would go after i got used to the new position, actually this hasn't gone away at all although hasn't got worse either. I do sort of adapt to it over time on long rides (long for me is +3hrs). But this usually requires me back stretching every half an hour or so as i feel simply too bent down.

Overall i feel it probably just down to my aged 48yr frame that isn't as flexible as it should be but my question how long should i wait to see if i adapt to this new position vs changing it now or plan B should would i be better to start some specific back flexibility exercises ?

Any thoughts on this

Comments

  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    Assuming you have no pre existing condition Check your saddle is level when bike is on level ground. If it is angled upwards this puts pressure on the lower back.

    When on the bike in your normal riding position see where you hands naturally fall. This will guide you to a good bar position, including on the hoods or in the drops. Best to be aware of your bodies natural flexibility and not fight against it.
  • Kajjal wrote:
    Assuming you have no pre existing condition Check your saddle is level when bike is on level ground. If it is angled upwards this puts pressure on the lower back.

    When on the bike in your normal riding position see where you hands naturally fall. This will guide you to a good bar position, including on the hoods or in the drops. Best to be aware of your bodies natural flexibility and not fight against it.

    Thanks.

    Yes back is normally OK. Saddle has a very slight nose down (really slight though) so will look at some back flexibility exercises :shock:
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    Do you feel your pelvis rocking like trying to reach for the pedals when clipped in? if so try to lower the saddle a bit, by 3mm increments and test if it works.
    Try to get a torso angle of about 45-50 degrees when on the hoods.
    Also make sure you are not sliding on the saddle (happens if there is too much tilt down) or over reaching to the bars, you need to feel stable on the saddle and not like you are using your neck or hands to keep you upright (those should feel relaxed).

    Always test one change at a time to find the culprit.
  • zefs wrote:
    Do you feel your pelvis rocking like trying to reach for the pedals when clipped in? if so try to lower the saddle a bit, by 3mm increments and test if it works.
    Try to get a torso angle of about 45-50 degrees when on the hoods.
    Also make sure you are not sliding on the saddle (happens if there is too much tilt down) or over reaching to the bars, you need to feel stable on the saddle and not like you are using your neck or hands to keep you upright (those should feel relaxed).

    Always test one change at a time to find the culprit.

    I was careful to make sure that my saddle position wasn't too high, in fact i may be able to higher it slightly so i'm pretty sure there's no pelvis wobble, but i will check by asking No3 daughter to cast an eye over it.

    Will check on the torso angle, that's a good point.

    I do naturally move forwards on my seat but i have done on every bike i've ridden, perhaps i need to accept a more mid saddle position rather than being right at the back of it.

    Yogo for my back may also be an idea :shock:
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    Or consider a professional bike fit.
  • zefs wrote:
    Or consider a professional bike fit.

    Yes that's a good call, been thinking about that for a while at my LBS as they offer the service, not cheap but could be well worth it.
  • If I read your first post correctly, you're more stretched out because a longer stem is fitted? If that's the case why wouldn't you fit a shorter stem to match your former position? Sorry if I'm missing something.
  • jessand wrote:
    If I read your first post correctly, you're more stretched out because a longer stem is fitted? If that's the case why wouldn't you fit a shorter stem to match your former position? Sorry if I'm missing something.

    Thanks for the feedback on this. Yes correct the new bike is slightly more stretched out vs the CX bike but i was hoping to adapt to that position rather than shorten the stem and have something too upright. I did slightly rotate the bars up as a small compensation factor (this was done from the start).

    Actually as time has gone on i have less and less discomfort and this is even after a dropped the stem by 5mm as this was set at the max height. Overall it's improving and i'm hoping i can still adapt to a more road rather than upright CX position, so far so good.
  • Ben6899
    Ben6899 Posts: 9,686
    I'd recommend a bike fit, to be honest, but what does the new saddle setback look like compared to on the old bike? Could be to do with pelvis rotation and then engaging lower back muscles to make the reach.
    Ben

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  • I had a few aches on my new bike and paid £100 for a fairly basic bike fit from an experienced guy... best £100 I spent. Getting somebody to stand back and look is a real help. I ended up with no issues and didn’t even have to buy anything new, we just adjusted the seat up and back and then set the cleats to suit. I’d never have got there on my own