Tubeless road tires

cycleclinic

so it has to be the choice of tyre, choice of rims and sealant then. just because a manufacturer makes something and has a sales pitch does not mean it works.

All the rims I use with the tyres I use don't unseat at zero pressure. So it's not like its one combination it's many. That is telling you something it can be predicted. its not random if you know what to look for.
A tubeless standard exists. It has done since 2006. the fact it is not widely adopted just shows you the long tradition of manuafcturers just winging it, knowing that customers will buy anything if the marketing is right.

If you carried worms, thin and thick, then you could fix everything that is actually fixable. I bet you don't carry these and if you do it probably the thin ones only which can be too small for big cutsm, which is why you worry about punctures that won't seal. I carry them and am happily using them which is why I am not worried.

If you have tyres that unseat at zero pressure and don't carry worms then you should be using tubed tyres. if you are willing to change then tubeless is viable.

people give up on tubeless due to poor experience that is mostly due to the choices made not the technology. That it is well worn for road use in cars, trucks (these use high pressures) and motorcycles is something many forget. It is the same technology.

sampras38

Literally just entered the tubeless world after years with tubes. Currently on Giant Gavia AC's on 25mm and have ordered some of the larger worms. Will look at the IRC Roadlites after these have worn.

clickrumble

I've tried various tubeless tyres including the IRC roadlites. I haven't managed to get much more than about 1500 miles from any tubeless tyre before I get a cut that isn't repairable, so I 've gone back to tubed tyres as I can't afford to keep buying tubeless tyres. I don't think it's worth going for tubeless tyres if you want to do serious mileage on wet flinty roads.

cycleclinic

Most race oriented tubed tyres would be getting similar cuts then. The tubeless tyres you are trying are all race oriented tyres. I have yet to use a tubed tyre with the exception of the strada Bianca that did more than 1500 miles without being holed badly enough that the tyre is scrap. I ride on wet flinty roads too (as does everyone in Suffolk) and cover alot if miles every year so that statement you made is not quite true. Then again I don't use the roadlites much myself.

The IRC formula Pro X guard is more puncture resistant than the Roadlite. The good year eagle promises the same thing. Even the yskion UST tyres have coped with daily commuting use over winter on flinty roads.

Schwalbe durano's are cheaper though but why not fit the marathon plus and be done with it.

Your missing a trick or three I am sure. Since you've given up and advocate tubeless tyres are for dry weather seldom used summer bikes then there is not much point trying to help you.

Here's your ideal tyres.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mob ... -prod24544

zefs

It's true that the racing tubeless tires compromise on puncture protection a bit to be lighter, since the beads are made from stronger material for them to work, but I don't understand why people use racing tires for wet weather/commutes etc. then complain that they cut easily or there is no grip. The reason probably is that they think the sealant will fix any puncture, that doesn't make a racing tire a good choice for wet weather though.

w00dster

Generally I agree that people are using lighter, faster more supple tyres and wondering why they aren't lasting. From a "fast" tubed tyre perspective, my Michelin Power Comp are still going strong, no nics or cuts, done well over 2000 miles and plenty of life left in them. Only took them off to put heavier duty winter clincher tyres on.
I'd go tubeless for the winter if I had a choice, but unfortunately my rims aren't tubeless compatible. I only had the one flat last autumn/winter so touch wood.....