50T Chainring fitted - Struggling to change rear cog :-(

daniel_b

Imposter wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Imposter wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

For reasons best known to me, I decided to shelve the connector link, and simply popped a pin not all the way out, and then hooked it back, up, and drove it back into the new section of chain - seemed to work fine.

That was a bit silly....

Well you know, if you are going to do it, do it properly ;-)

Have ordered this, which is effectively the same as the pic I think\hope.

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Birzman-BMX-Freewheel-Remover_86832.htm

Dumb question - once I remove the freewheel, will the wheel still fit normally, or do I need to get something to plug the space.......?

You don't need to cover the hub threads, if that's what you mean. I'd also buy another chain and fit it properly. Chain failures at the velodrome rarely end well...

Fair enough, sounds good, and yes that was what I meant.

And yes I agree, don't want to end up in A&E (And take others with me) for the sake of a fiver.
Might even have a suitable new chain sat around from a PX order.

daniel_b

Afternoon,

just to update this after a couple of months - I have finally changed the chain!


My £2 PX chain does appear to fit the bill, and this time I actually used the quicklink!

Still pretty galling to have to remove a brand new chain :?
I've hung it in the garage as a piece of art.

I have not ridden on the Velodrome since my last post, as a close family bereavement made it untenable, but they messaged last week to say the next accrediation was on, so I'm heading down there tomorrow, for the 2nd of hopefully 5 sessions.

I'll update with what the new gearing felt like..........

Thankyou for all the help on here, very very much appreciated, as well as the well justified jibes

Dan

imposter2.0

I notice you're on Michelins - not sure which velodrome you will be riding at, but some have a 'No Michelin' policy. Well worth checking with wherever you are going...

daniel_b

Imposter wrote:

I notice you're on Michelins - not sure which velodrome you will be riding at, but some have a 'No Michelin' policy. Well worth checking with wherever you are going...

Cheers for that - I have heard that too (Calshot and Newport to name but two), and I think it does apply to indoor wooden ones, but this is an outdoor one, so they don't seem to have an issue with them happily.

imposter2.0

Daniel B wrote:

Imposter wrote:

I notice you're on Michelins - not sure which velodrome you will be riding at, but some have a 'No Michelin' policy. Well worth checking with wherever you are going...

Cheers for that - I have heard that too (Calshot and Newport to name but two), and I think it does apply to indoor wooden ones, but this is an outdoor one, so they don't seem to have an issue with them happily.

no probs - as you say, outdoor should be fine.

johnmiosh

Daniel B wrote:

Imposter wrote:

I notice you're on Michelins - not sure which velodrome you will be riding at, but some have a 'No Michelin' policy. Well worth checking with wherever you are going...

Cheers for that - I have heard that too (Calshot and Newport to name but two), and I think it does apply to indoor wooden ones, but this is an outdoor one, so they don't seem to have an issue with them happily.

The issue is that Michelins are dual compound tyres; the middle section is harder and with less grip to give better rolling resistance and longer life. Unfortunately this less grippy part is in contact with the track as you hit maximum force on the bends. The usual velodrome recommendation (I only have experience of Manchester and Derby) is Continental, Schwalbe, Tufo or Vittoria. The recommendations for outdoor tracks may be different, but I wouldn't risk Michelins with a 250m outdoor track.

Gearing wise, SQTs are generally restricted to 88" which is 50x15, stock velodrome bikes are 86" 49x15. Endurance riders in competition will use slighter higher, sprinters higher still. I am also surprised they allowed you to keep the sprocket on the non-drive side; potentially lethal if the bike spins through the air.

amrushton

Daniel B wrote:

Afternoon,

just to update this after a couple of months - I have finally changed the chain!


My £2 PX chain does appear to fit the bill, and this time I actually used the quicklink!

Still pretty galling to have to remove a brand new chain :?
I've hung it in the garage as a piece of art.



Dan

Buy a quick link (or 2) for the old (new) chain?

daniel_b

amrushton wrote:

Buy a quick link (or 2) for the old (new) chain?

Trouble is I don't know which one is the re-pushed in link, and I've since pushed another one out ot remove it.

Frustratingly, after having a chat with the expert group and coaches at the Velodrome last night, they informed me that the quicklink I fitted to the new chain is incorrect, as in it is not a one way connection, in theory it could be undone, by hand, or by resisting the pedals.
One of the guys kindly said he would bring a correct one along next week to swap out.

And even more so, is the fact that they told me fitting a 1/8" chain, by popping a pin out and back in is fine on those chains, but not on the 3\32" chains - I don't know why, but that's what hey go with apparently.

First ride back on fixed since April, but managed not to fall off, or struggle too much.
The difference between a 42 and a 50 is considerable, but i did struggle a bit on the warm up, as one in the line was a bit too eager, and would ramp the pace up before peeling off - so I ran out of puff a lap before the end, but hoping that is something I can work on on the turbo, perhaps with some more concentrated lower cadence work to build strength up.

After that we had follow my leader, which I really liked, slalom, which was also ace, and a more difficult one was stacking 6 high, and then riding at walking pace, person at the top brakes to a virtual standstill, and drops down to the bottom of the track - my first few efforts went fine, and then on the last one, a lapse in concentration meant I pointed the bike down at the steepest part of the track, and I was gone, no way I could slot in

We also tried some madison changes, pretty tricky, but did get better at it - never realised quite how much of a slingshot can be generated from watching on the TV, or even in person.

Oh and there was at least one other person there on Michelins which was comforting :-)

And my bike garnered quite a lot of positive attention!

daniel_b

Ok gents, needs some more help :-(

Ordered and recieved a 52 front, and a 15 and 14 rear.

Wanted to start off with the 50\15 combo as the coaches are saying I am well under geared at the moment, on an 82" gear, and getting destroyed week in week out!

I removed the lock ring for the rear cog, and stupidly thought the cog would simply slide off, I slide the new one on, tighten up the lock ring again, and refit......
No of course not.

The rear cog is fixed on solid, and I can't figure out how it is, or how to remove it.

The GCN video shows it simply slipping off :?

I attach pics below, and hopefully you guys will be able to advise, otherwise I am going to have to stick with the 16 (Need the bike tomorrow night), and lump the 52 on the front - not ideal really.

I have tried to tap it off from behind
Tap it down with a screwdriver, if it was threaded
Wrap my hand around it using a cloth and see if I can unscrew it
Attempted to use a chain wrench, but the diameter is too small for it to get any purchase

Anyone give any advice?

I do also have a chap in a van nearby who carried out maintenance jobs, quite tempted to give him a call at the moment.

Seems to be my calling card, think a job will be fairly quick and easy, and never turns out to be.





New cog:

imposter2.0

It's a screw-on track cog - you'll need a 1/8 chain whip to get it off. Unscrews anti-clockwise, opposite to the lockring. Alternatively, if you have a vice handy, clamp the wheel by the sprocket and turn the wheel by hand to unscrew it that way - not ideal as you risk damaging the teeth..

daniel_b

Thanks Imposter.

Some continued googling, turned up this article:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VC9_IYARcsw

The bit I went for, was from approx 4:30 in, against my better judgement, and somehow it worked...........

So I'm almost certainly going to be changing the rear cog again, and don't want to be going through that method more than once, so assume I need something like this?
https://www.evanscycles.com/fwe-1-8-chain-whip-EV183197

Or this one potentially looks better, as it has the lockring removal tool integrated as well:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-pro-track-chain-whip/rp-prod155419

Afternoon of fettling, langster now has new bright yellow tyres, 15T on the rear, new look pedals (Hand me downs), longer correctly orientated stem, and Arione saddle fitted.

Will see how it fairs tomorrow.......

daniel_b

Any idea if this one would work.......?

https://www.evanscycles.com/lezyne-classic-chain-rod-chain-whip-inc-lockring-tool-EV163186

I can get 10% BC discount, plus extra discount from work, so it wouldn't work out that much more expensive than the £10 jobbies from CRC etc - and I can collect from store.

imposter2.0

Assuming your track drivetrain is 1/8, then the Lezyne tool will not work, but the x-tools will.

daniel_b

Imposter wrote:

Assuming your track drivetrain is 1/8, then the Lezyne tool will not work, but the x-tools will.

Cheers, tis ordered.