Disc or no disc?
Comments
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I'm old school as far as disk brakes are concerned; I do have hydraulic disk on my MTB; but wouldn't buy a road bike with disk brakes. Oh and your maintenance bill will increase with disk brake parts levers and the rest of the equipment .
No disks for me!!0 -
Mstyn wrote:I'm old school as far as disk brakes are concerned; I do have hydraulic disk on my MTB; but wouldn't buy a road bike with disk brakes. Oh and your maintenance bill will increase with disk brake parts levers and the rest of the equipment .
No disks for me!!
And how often do people replace levers on a disc or non disc bike? I’ve never replaced a lever (on either type) through wearing it out or crashing. Scratched a few up mind...
The only brake parts I’ve ever replaced are pads (on both types) and cables on rim brakes, but not on disc.
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Mstyn wrote:Oh and your maintenance bill will increase with disk brake parts levers and the rest of the equipment .
No disks for me!!0 -
Winter bike just coming to the end of its 6th winter, original pads still have plenty of meat on them, still on original rotors. If I'd been using rims brakes I would have had to replace pads, probably more than once, and rims would be looking a bit secondhand by now0
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Mstyn wrote:I'm old school as far as disk brakes are concerned; I do have hydraulic disk on my MTB; but wouldn't buy a road bike with disk brakes. Oh and your maintenance bill will increase with disk brake parts levers and the rest of the equipment .
No disks for me!!
Maybe you should give them a go seeing as though your reasoning behind not having them is complete tosh. Been using disc brakes on road bikes for three years now and only had to replace pads.
Had three crashes and no new levers needed. Rotors last year's and cost peanuts so I'm struggling to see where all this added expense comes in.argon 18 e116 2013 Vision Metron 80
Bianchi Oltre XR Sram Red E-tap, Fulcrum racing speed xlr
De Rosa SK pininfarina disc
S Works Tarmac e-tap 2017
Rose pro sl disc0 -
6 winters, still on original disc rotors, probably 3 (or at most) 4 sets of pads. Chain Reaction doing them at £2.99 a set, for sintered... :roll:
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When or if I get a nice new road bike Id look at getting a disc brake version. I would only look at frames that are thru axle front and rear. I dont think standard QR drop outs are fit for disc brake torque forces, especially at the fork.Caveat - I buy and ride cheap, however, I reserve the right to advise on expensive kit that I have never actually used and possibly never will0
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For me its not about cost, ive spend lots of money on my hobby anyway. Its all about my safety and practicality, being father of 2 without rich dad i cant afford to stay away from my job. As far as about the weight, come on guys, i bet my infinto that the majority here they are at least 1kg overweight, everyone can find those extra grams from losing some belly.0
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I don't get why discs are safer - rim brakes on alloy rims are ample to lock the back wheel and send me over the bars with the front - in terms of modulation I actually prefer them - I find discs a bit dead and offering less feedback.[Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]0
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I have no issues with rim brakes what so ever and don’t consider myself a vocal supporter of discs, but I’ve always found the performance and the confidence from the disks to be significantly better. Coming down from wet mountain passes I just feel more confident with disks. It may be the fact that I run 32mm tyres and the disks combined that gives the better feel, but anyway it works for me.
For majority of my rides though rim brakes would (and are) absolutely fine. I’m looking forward to getting back on my lighter rim brake bike which I will do in the next couple of months.0