BB30A to 24mm Shimano

Kieran.f
Kieran.f Posts: 9
edited June 2019 in Road buying advice
Hi all hoping for a bit of help...

Is anyone here using an adapter or aftermarket BB to run Shimano cranks (24mm) on a BB30A bike? E.g Cannondale Caad 12. If so which are you using?

I've seen lots of posts on different forums with people trying to answer but most are confusing BB30 and BB30A.

Apologies if i'm dragging up something previously done to death..
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Comments

  • bristolpete
    bristolpete Posts: 2,255
    Kieran.f wrote:
    Hi all hoping for a bit of help...

    Is anyone here using an adapter or aftermarket BB to run Shimano cranks (24mm) on a BB30A bike? E.g Cannondale Caad 12. If so which are you using?

    I've seen lots of posts on different forums with people trying to answer but most are confusing BB30 and BB30A.

    Apologies if i'm dragging up something previously done to death..


    BB30 is 68mm.

    BB30a is 73mm.

    A on BB30a stands for assymetric which repsresents the split seat tube on synapse and the delta (wider) junction at the BB on newer evo and caad bikes. Note this is not the same 73mm you could use on an MTB as one side of the bike 'fatter' than the other.

    I had a C-Bear BB30a ceramic BB installed on a synapse in 2016 and was superb. Great price and super smooth. I ran Dura Ace on a BB30a - no issues. I currently have another c-bear BB on my Pinarello. Superb.

    Buy direct from Velotech.

    http://www.velotechservices.co.uk/shop/ ... sp?cat=367

    Hope this helps.

    Pete.
  • BB30 is 68mm.

    BB30a is 73mm.

    A on BB30a stands for assymetric which repsresents the split seat tube on synapse and the delta (wider) junction at the BB on newer evo and caad bikes. Note this is not the same 73mm you could use on an MTB as one side of the bike 'fatter' than the other.

    I had a C-Bear BB30a ceramic BB installed on a synapse in 2016 and was superb. Great price and super smooth. I ran Dura Ace on a BB30a - no issues. I currently have another c-bear BB on my Pinarello. Superb.

    Buy direct from Velotech.

    http://www.velotechservices.co.uk/shop/ ... sp?cat=367

    Hope this helps.

    Pete.

    Great background information, but I'd like to think ( :o :shock: ??) that there are more cost effective options than that!!
  • bristolpete
    bristolpete Posts: 2,255
    BB30 is 68mm.

    BB30a is 73mm.

    A on BB30a stands for assymetric which repsresents the split seat tube on synapse and the delta (wider) junction at the BB on newer evo and caad bikes. Note this is not the same 73mm you could use on an MTB as one side of the bike 'fatter' than the other.

    I had a C-Bear BB30a ceramic BB installed on a synapse in 2016 and was superb. Great price and super smooth. I ran Dura Ace on a BB30a - no issues. I currently have another c-bear BB on my Pinarello. Superb.

    Buy direct from Velotech.

    http://www.velotechservices.co.uk/shop/ ... sp?cat=367

    Hope this helps.

    Pete.

    Great background information, but I'd like to think ( :o :shock: ??) that there are more cost effective options than that!!

    Yes, non ceramic available. You can buy other options too, but my research led me to this back in 2016.
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    So, can you actually change the bearings in this bear thingie? or do you have to buy another whopping £100 plus ??
  • bristolpete
    bristolpete Posts: 2,255
    JGSI wrote:
    So, can you actually change the bearings in this bear thingie? or do you have to buy another whopping £100 plus ??

    Appear capped with push in bearings, but perhaps ring them if you are that concerned.
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    Another vote for cBear BBs. I’ve got two of them fitted to Colnago Threadfit 82.5 bottom brackets. They really are superb, silent, spin forever and very sturdy. No creaking whatsoever compared to the original Rotor 4130 press fit bearings I initially installed but which rusted quickly due to no centre tube, thus the bearings were exposed on the inside of the BB shell.

    They are pricey, but so far I think they are superb. In fact they have gone up quite a bit since the pound dropped in value against the euro a year or so back...

    PP
  • kleinstroker
    kleinstroker Posts: 2,133
    No need for any of the above if bearings are already installed. FSA do a 24mm reducer, the green one, costs £15 and works really well. Have done the same on a synapse
  • indyp
    indyp Posts: 735
    concur with above....have FSA green adaptors after fitting standard BB30A to Supersix HM frame with no problems. I followed Cannondale advise and used Loctite 609 + activator
  • ayjaycee
    ayjaycee Posts: 1,277
    Just seen this and apologies for the late response. I've also got a C-Bear BB on my BB30a Synapse allowing me to fit an Ultegra 6800 chainset. Works as it should, no creaks and easy to fit, even for a mechanical numpty like me. On bearing replacement, I asked the question before I bought it and C-Bear said that they are not replaceable and a new BB would be required if I ever needed it.
    Cannondale Synapse Carbon Ultegra
    Kinesis Racelight 4S
    Specialized Allez Elite (Frame/Forks for sale)
    Specialized Crosstrail Comp Disk (For sale)
  • Wheels manufacturing INC, do all the conversations you will ever need. Ceramic and non-ceramic available and all serviceable. They are based in USA but loads of resellers on ebay.
    I have the standard BB30 ceramic version and they were top notch.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    edited September 2018
    Token do a BB30A BB. On that point I must reorder them.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Hi .

    I am using one if the FSA green adapters on my CAAD12 Bb30a . When I put it on I have to use a spacer on the drive side to correct chainline and also reduce the axle sticking out the other side. My issue is when I tighten the preload cap on the non drive side arm it the whole assembly no longer sound freely, feels like there is a lot of drag . Anyone else had this experience or know how to remedy it ?

    Thanks
  • trailflow
    trailflow Posts: 1,311
    stupatz wrote:
    Hi .

    I am using one if the FSA green adapters on my CAAD12 Bb30a . When I put it on I have to use a spacer on the drive side to correct chainline and also reduce the axle sticking out the other side. My issue is when I tighten the preload cap on the non drive side arm it the whole assembly no longer sound freely, feels like there is a lot of drag . Anyone else had this experience or know how to remedy it ?

    Thanks

    Sounds like the spacer is too thick or not needed.

    What happens if you don't add the spacer ? Do you have a thinner spacer to try ?
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    stupatz wrote:
    Hi .

    I am using one if the FSA green adapters on my CAAD12 Bb30a . When I put it on I have to use a spacer on the drive side to correct chainline and also reduce the axle sticking out the other side. My issue is when I tighten the preload cap on the non drive side arm it the whole assembly no longer sound freely, feels like there is a lot of drag . Anyone else had this experience or know how to remedy it ?

    Thanks

    Are the push fit bearings pushed all the way home? I’ve seen this before where they (well, one side to be exact) needed pressing a little further in to be fully seated. Caused exactly the issue you are experiencing, but remedied with a bearing press.

    PP
  • skeetam
    skeetam Posts: 178
    Pilot Pete wrote:
    stupatz wrote:
    Hi .

    I am using one if the FSA green adapters on my CAAD12 Bb30a . When I put it on I have to use a spacer on the drive side to correct chainline and also reduce the axle sticking out the other side. My issue is when I tighten the preload cap on the non drive side arm it the whole assembly no longer sound freely, feels like there is a lot of drag . Anyone else had this experience or know how to remedy it ?

    Thanks

    Are the push fit bearings pushed all the way home? I’ve seen this before where they (well, one side to be exact) needed pressing a little further in to be fully seated. Caused exactly the issue you are experiencing, but remedied with a bearing press.

    PP

    I've used the green adaptor too. My problem was the other way. When I screwed the preloader cap all the way in on my Shimano cranks there was still some play. I had to add the flat spacer to the non-drive side. The instructions aren't particularly helpful.
  • creampie
    creampie Posts: 19
    Hi. I also have a Caad 12. I have used C- Bear in the past nice and smooth but still the intolerable creaking. The only solution that worked for me was to loctite a Wheels manufacturing alternative with the outboard bearing , which are serviceable and use Enduro bearings . worth a shot imo. good luck fella.
    .
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    creampie wrote:
    Hi. I also have a Caad 12. I have used C- Bear in the past nice and smooth but still the intolerable creaking. The only solution that worked for me was to loctite a Wheels manufacturing alternative with the outboard bearing , which are serviceable and use Enduro bearings . worth a shot imo. good luck fella.
    .

    Thats good to know (sort of) ..
    My frame is yet to be built and I have got the C bear adapter but have been looking at it thinking, ok this still a press fit so called solution.
    Judging by your reply , I may have squandered my money and the threaded alternative is
    https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Wheels ... ranks/KZ7X

    just another £80 ....
  • pmannion9
    pmannion9 Posts: 280
    JGSI wrote:
    creampie wrote:
    Hi. I also have a Caad 12. I have used C- Bear in the past nice and smooth but still the intolerable creaking. The only solution that worked for me was to loctite a Wheels manufacturing alternative with the outboard bearing , which are serviceable and use Enduro bearings . worth a shot imo. good luck fella.
    .

    Thats good to know (sort of) ..
    My frame is yet to be built and I have got the C bear adapter but have been looking at it thinking, ok this still a press fit so called solution.
    Judging by your reply , I may have squandered my money and the threaded alternative is
    https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Wheels ... ranks/KZ7X

    just another £80 ....

    I have just had the equivalent Wheels Manufacturing one fitted to BB30 Cannondale (Supersix 2011).
    Seems like a great piece of kit...
    I have fitted an Ultegra chainset - New 11 speed one - However with the increased width of the external bearings there is now slight chain alignment issues in certain gears...
    Anyone else have this issue - any solution?

    Thanks..
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    You did fit the BB30 to Shimano adapter?
    Caad12s have the cursed BB30a with its extra 5mm width .
  • skeetam
    skeetam Posts: 178
    pmannion9 wrote:
    JGSI wrote:
    creampie wrote:
    Hi. I also have a Caad 12. I have used C- Bear in the past nice and smooth but still the intolerable creaking. The only solution that worked for me was to loctite a Wheels manufacturing alternative with the outboard bearing , which are serviceable and use Enduro bearings . worth a shot imo. good luck fella.
    .

    Thats good to know (sort of) ..
    My frame is yet to be built and I have got the C bear adapter but have been looking at it thinking, ok this still a press fit so called solution.
    Judging by your reply , I may have squandered my money and the threaded alternative is
    https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Wheels ... ranks/KZ7X

    just another £80 ....

    I have just had the equivalent Wheels Manufacturing one fitted to BB30 Cannondale (Supersix 2011).
    Seems like a great piece of kit...
    I have fitted an Ultegra chainset - New 11 speed one - However with the increased width of the external bearings there is now slight chain alignment issues in certain gears...
    Anyone else have this issue - any solution?

    Thanks..

    I fitted the FSA reducers to the standard bearings and I have issues with the front mech on my Shimano cranks grrrr
  • pmannion9
    pmannion9 Posts: 280
    I think issue is these older frames....
    Yes it is right adapter...
  • skeetam
    skeetam Posts: 178
    edited June 2019
    pmannion9 wrote:
    I think issue is these older frames....
    Yes it is right adapter...

    I've used the green FSA adaptors with my 2018 Synapse and they work really well. I followed Shimano's procedure for setup of the r8000 front mech and all seems to work rather well now. It is annoying that BB30a is 5mm wider and stops you using Praxis m30 based cranks.
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,569
    So to try and summarise as best I can for my own benefit as much as anyone - when looking at a BB30A frame, the options are:

    Premium: C Bear - £155ish
    https://velotechservices.co.uk/shop/vclose2.asp?prd=236307&cat=367
    PIm_bb30a-86-r.jpg
    Great quality (Ceramic option), still pushfit - original BB needs to be removed.

    Medium priced: Wheels Manufacturing - £80ish
    https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Wheels-Manufacturing/BB30A-to-Outboard-Bottom-Bracket-for-24mm-Cranks/KZ7X
    Wheels-Manufacturing-BB30A-to-Outboard-Bottom-Bracket-for-24mm-Cranks.jpg
    Looks to be good quality, and is also screwfit, so potentially helps with squeaky pushfit only BB's?
    Original BB needs to be removed.

    Next cheapest option: BBright adapter - £30ish
    https://wheelsmfg.com/bbright-adapter-for-shimano-cranks.html
    bbright_1.jpg
    This plugs into the existing BB, or is a direct replacement - wasn't too clear on this one.

    Cheap as chips option: FSA 24 Reducer - £15ish
    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/fsa-bb30apf30a-24-reducer-nbd-el213/
    prod129932_NC_NE_01?wid=586&hei=498
    Plugs into existing pushfit BB, so if there is any creaking would need a new one as well.
    Potentially more likely to get continued creaking with this one?

    Are the FSA and BBright essentially the same approach?

    Hopefully some of the above I have compiled is near accurate :shock:
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • Alejandrosdog
    Alejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    Wheels do a screw in BB30a BB now which fits the caad12.

    buy it, fit it , no creaks. Ive fitted a few of these things and never bothered with loctite or any bonding compounds and theyve just worked perfectly. You can change the bearings easily too.
  • Fitted a c-bear last October to a caad12, lasted until March before creaking. Got the wheels manufacturing standard bearing as a replacement and seems a much better option. Hambini has some great options but unfortunately at the time none of them would work with the internal wiring on the caad.
  • creampie
    creampie Posts: 19
    Hi. I agree with Milemuncher1, the inly proviso would be to loctite the B/B into place. As it is an outboard bearing you can easily remove and replace them. There is no need to ever remove the internal sleeve which is why i chose said B/B. Still relatively pricey but a lot cheaper than C-Bear which I also tried but presented a creak. May caad12 is silent at last. Trust me it works. Good luck
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    No BB should cost £80 let alone £150 that's just nuts
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    itboffin wrote:
    No BB should cost £80 let alone £150 that's just nuts

    It is what it is, but you are correct.
    If only mainstream bike manufacturers cared what their amateur customers thought, but they dont - its all about being fckn pro.
  • Fitted a c-bear last October to a caad12, lasted until March before creaking. Got the wheels manufacturing standard bearing as a replacement and seems a much better option. Hambini has some great options but unfortunately at the time none of them would work with the internal wiring on the caad.

    Not quite true. For a price, Hambini can custom-machine a necked version of the BB30A bottom bracket to work alongside the internal cable routing. I know, because I’ve got one. A fantastic one-piece solution and unrivalled in terms of stiffness, alignment, durability and build quality.