Cheap, reliable runaround car or future classic
Comments
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Pinno wrote:Another detailing job.
...and a very, very happy customer. No machines were used in the making of this detail. In fact, it was previously machine polished and despite that, there were a lot of missed bits. You could feel it under the clay bar. After all, the clay bar if done properly, covers every square millimetre of the paintwork.
This worries me a bit.
Claying and Polishing are two different processes. Claying is generally part of the preparation for polishing.
Claying removes surface contaminants. Nothing more or less. This includes things like tar, stuck on bugs, old wax etc.
Polishing removes a nano thin layer of paint in order to restore to a smooth surface. This would remove the swirl marks clearly visible in the photo here if done properly.
If you polish without claying then your polisher will be working those contaminants over the surface of the car hence why you remove them with clay first.
They arent the same thing and your post worries me that you seem to think they are.
That car looks like it needs a good polish to remove the swirl marks, then a product like poorboys black hole to fill any remaing marks before a good coating of wax.
If it has just been machine polished then you are correct that they did a poor job though...0 -
I polished it by hand - Fusso soft wax after the clay bar. Unless I know the paint is free of contaminents, I always clay bar.
I also use clay bar on glass and alloys - if you don't believe it has any merit, try some T cut on your car light lenses. Clay bar has the same effect without stripping other bits un-necessarily.
I would have used Bilt Hamber high gloss but the Fusso will protect it better over winter. Not as glossy but longer lasting. It is getting driven regularly.
It is the original paint (28 years old) and there is no lacquer layer, so the whole process was gently gently. The contrast between before and after was quite remarkable for paintwork that looked pretty good in the first place.
Point out the swirls, 'cos I cannot see many. There was a hell of a lot of reflection off the lens in the low sun.
And with the Fusso wax, you will have to provide me evidence that it removes a nano layer of paint. It's not 'Mer', it's a PTFE polymer based wax.
Without clay barring, good adhesion of this and other waxes (Carnauba based for example) is poor. Proof that the previous machine polish was sub-standard and does not necessarily prepare the paint as good as clay bar or a chemical based swirl remover (3m 3 stage system for example). Machine polishers cannot access those intricate areas. This was especially so below the rear spoiler and along the front of the car around driving/fog lamps and air intakes.
I could have used the Turtle Wax premium T147 polishing compound but why? The clay bar is far less aggressive.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Getting to the point. How much time is spent getting that finish on a car of that vintage?Pinno wrote:Another detailing job.
...
Takes me most of a day on a relatively new car. To achieve a worse finish. :oops:The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
PBlakeney wrote:
Getting to the point. How much time is spent getting that finish on a car of that vintage?Pinno wrote:Another detailing job.
...
Takes me most of a day on a relatively new car. To achieve a worse finish. :oops:
https://www.autofinesse.co.uk/how-to-use-a-clay-bar/
Buy a clay bar from fleabay. Inexpensive. You don't need a dedicated 'lubricant'. Car shampoo or my preference - household detergent; it removes grease and oil, diluted in a plastic bottle with a trigger.
Run the back of your hand on even shiny looking paintwork. If it is not as smooth as a baby's bum, the paint has surface contamination.
The clay bar removes the contamination and light swirls. Never go in circles.
If the paint is smooth, then the wax adheres and polishes the paint so much easier. That Fusso, if applied properly, lasts a year (probable less in our damn weather).
It means that you can use just the lance (do not use the brush; it's filthy) to clean your car as the dirt does not adhere to the paint readily after the waxing. I can do my Merc for £1! Saves standing in the cold on the driveway.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
apreading wrote:Pinno wrote:Another detailing job.
...and a very, very happy customer. No machines were used in the making of this detail. In fact, it was previously machine polished and despite that, there were a lot of missed bits. You could feel it under the clay bar. After all, the clay bar if done properly, covers every square millimetre of the paintwork.
This worries me a bit.
Claying and Polishing are two different processes. Claying is generally part of the preparation for polishing.
Claying removes surface contaminants. Nothing more or less. This includes things like tar, stuck on bugs, old wax etc.
Polishing removes a nano thin layer of paint in order to restore to a smooth surface. This would remove the swirl marks clearly visible in the photo here if done properly.
If you polish without claying then your polisher will be working those contaminants over the surface of the car hence why you remove them with clay first.
They arent the same thing and your post worries me that you seem to think they are.
That car looks like it needs a good polish to remove the swirl marks, then a product like poorboys black hole to fill any remaing marks before a good coating of wax.
If it has just been machine polished then you are correct that they did a poor job though...
If you find any of this worrying...then you may have missed the point that pinno is an expert in car detailing, don’t try this at home folks, call pinno he is a top buffer, ambidextrous too
my isetta is a 300cc bike0 -
Pinno wrote:I polished it by hand - Fusso soft wax after the clay bar. Unless I know the paint is free of contaminents, I always clay bar.
I also use clay bar on glass and alloys - if you don't believe it has any merit, try some T cut on your car light lenses. Clay bar has the same effect without stripping other bits un-necessarily.
I would have used Bilt Hamber high gloss but the Fusso will protect it better over winter. Not as glossy but longer lasting. It is getting driven regularly.
It is the original paint (28 years old) and there is no lacquer layer, so the whole process was gently gently. The contrast between before and after was quite remarkable for paintwork that looked pretty good in the first place.
Point out the swirls, 'cos I cannot see many. There was a hell of a lot of reflection off the lens in the low sun.
And with the Fusso wax, you will have to provide me evidence that it removes a nano layer of paint. It's not 'Mer', it's a PTFE polymer based wax.
Without clay barring, good adhesion of this and other waxes (Carnauba based for example) is poor. Proof that the previous machine polish was sub-standard and does not necessarily prepare the paint as good as clay bar or a chemical based swirl remover (3m 3 stage system for example). Machine polishers cannot access those intricate areas. This was especially so below the rear spoiler and along the front of the car around driving/fog lamps and air intakes.
I could have used the Turtle Wax premium T147 polishing compound but why? The clay bar is far less aggressive.
I am sorry but you have just got this even more wrong.
Fusso is not a polish, it is a wax/sealant. It doesnt polish anything and it doesnt remove swirls. It doesnt touch the paint, thats the whole point. It seals it.
Claybar doesnt touch the paint either, it removes contaminants stuck to it.
Neither of them will do anything to 'correct' the paint or remove swirls. That needs a polish which does so by removing a thin layer of paint to bring the whole thing back to the same level as the swirls.
And the swirls are plain as day just below the glint of the sun in that shot, like cobwebs radiating out.0 -
apreading wrote:And the swirls are plain as day just below the glint of the sun in that shot, like cobwebs radiating out.
Where?! Which picture?
To say that it doesn't add a deep shine to the paint and it is just a sealant is testament to you having never used it.
From: http://www.soft99.co.jp/english/product ... ?pid=00298
"Fusso Coat 12 Months Wax
Features
Fluorine polymer, which has a sufficient anti-fouling ability effectively protects the car surface from rain, dirt and other unwanted residue. Its thick hard coating repels water strongly, as water smoothly runs down and off the car surface. The effects will last up to 12 months and keep the car in a good condition for a long period of time. Furthermore the hard paste wax can create clear gloss on the car body*."
*But - you have to get the surface clean if you want to get that gloss.
Don't take the manufacturers word for it. Jump on the Detailing world forum and have a read of the reviews and use of the Soft 99 wax. In fact, here's the link:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... p?t=327782
It's not a wax yet it is called 'soft wax' and it doesn't polish yet it gives a deep gloss (provided the paint prep is good) and you have to polish it after application but it isn't a polish. WTF?
Also, I could 'fake' the fine scratches with a colour wax or 'poorboys black hole' but I am not putting the Fusso wax on top of that.
It only covers swirls, it does not remove them.
The car is for regular use, not show.
Until you have used it and gone and done some research, it seems like you are being pedantic and you are starting to appear like a troll.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
I would be more worried about getting it on a jig and checking the chassis. From the surface reflections it looks like it's been in an accident.team47b wrote:apreading wrote:Pinno wrote:Another detailing job.
...and a very, very happy customer. No machines were used in the making of this detail. In fact, it was previously machine polished and despite that, there were a lot of missed bits. You could feel it under the clay bar. After all, the clay bar if done properly, covers every square millimetre of the paintwork.
This worries me a bit.
Claying and Polishing are two different processes. Claying is generally part of the preparation for polishing.
Claying removes surface contaminants. Nothing more or less. This includes things like tar, stuck on bugs, old wax etc.
Polishing removes a nano thin layer of paint in order to restore to a smooth surface. This would remove the swirl marks clearly visible in the photo here if done properly.
If you polish without claying then your polisher will be working those contaminants over the surface of the car hence why you remove them with clay first.
They arent the same thing and your post worries me that you seem to think they are.
That car looks like it needs a good polish to remove the swirl marks, then a product like poorboys black hole to fill any remaing marks before a good coating of wax.
If it has just been machine polished then you are correct that they did a poor job though...
If you find any of this worrying...then you may have missed the point that pinno is an expert in car detailing, don’t try this at home folks, call pinno he is a top buffer, ambidextrous too0 -
Nothing wrong with the chassis or the body panels for that matter CC. They are all straight, I can assure you. Anyway, that high gloss finish reflected everything.
It was hard trying to take good shots in that low sun.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
darkhairedlord wrote:
I would be more worried about getting it on a jig and checking the chassis. From the surface reflections it looks like it's been in an accident.team47b wrote:apreading wrote:Pinno wrote:Another detailing job.
...and a very, very happy customer. No machines were used in the making of this detail. In fact, it was previously machine polished and despite that, there were a lot of missed bits. You could feel it under the clay bar. After all, the clay bar if done properly, covers every square millimetre of the paintwork.
This worries me a bit.
Claying and Polishing are two different processes. Claying is generally part of the preparation for polishing.
Claying removes surface contaminants. Nothing more or less. This includes things like tar, stuck on bugs, old wax etc.
Polishing removes a nano thin layer of paint in order to restore to a smooth surface. This would remove the swirl marks clearly visible in the photo here if done properly.
If you polish without claying then your polisher will be working those contaminants over the surface of the car hence why you remove them with clay first.
They arent the same thing and your post worries me that you seem to think they are.
That car looks like it needs a good polish to remove the swirl marks, then a product like poorboys black hole to fill any remaing marks before a good coating of wax.
If it has just been machine polished then you are correct that they did a poor job though...
If you find any of this worrying...then you may have missed the point that pinno is an expert in car detailing, don’t try this at home folks, call pinno he is a top buffer, ambidextrous too
Even after consuming this years entire harvest from the Douro I can still see that is a fairly poor attempt at a wind up
my isetta is a 300cc bike0 -
That's just CC, I can put up with him - in fact he said he was taking me out for a beer in my toodling town at some point.
Now that is either a deep sense of adventure or pure lunacy. I suspect it's the latter.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
darkhairedlord wrote:I would be more worried about getting it on a jig and checking the chassis. From the surface reflections it looks like it's been in an accident.
Would definitely check it, I think someone has put the engine in the wrong end.0 -
diplodicus wrote:darkhairedlord wrote:I would be more worried about getting it on a jig and checking the chassis. From the surface reflections it looks like it's been in an accident.
Would definitely check it, I think someone has put the engine in the wrong end.
Ah but the one's with the engine's in the correct end are pricey and difficult to handle.
Remind you of anyone?seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
I think we can all agree that if anyone has a helmet that needs polishing, Pinno is the man for the job.0
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Ballysmate wrote:I think we can all agree that if anyone has a helmet that needs polishing, Pinno is the man for the job.
Did you co write the Carry On films?seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Pinno wrote:Ballysmate wrote:I think we can all agree that if anyone has a helmet that needs polishing, Pinno is the man for the job.
Did you co write the Carry On films?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVrm6Qc6neM0 -
exatamente certo
He has a special buffing sock, alledgedly.my isetta is a 300cc bike0 -
Pinno wrote:apreading wrote:And the swirls are plain as day just below the glint of the sun in that shot, like cobwebs radiating out.
Where?! Which picture?
To say that it doesn't add a deep shine to the paint and it is just a sealant is testament to you having never used it.
From: http://www.soft99.co.jp/english/product ... ?pid=00298
"Fusso Coat 12 Months Wax
Features
Fluorine polymer, which has a sufficient anti-fouling ability effectively protects the car surface from rain, dirt and other unwanted residue. Its thick hard coating repels water strongly, as water smoothly runs down and off the car surface. The effects will last up to 12 months and keep the car in a good condition for a long period of time. Furthermore the hard paste wax can create clear gloss on the car body*."
*But - you have to get the surface clean if you want to get that gloss.
Don't take the manufacturers word for it. Jump on the Detailing world forum and have a read of the reviews and use of the Soft 99 wax. In fact, here's the link:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... p?t=327782
It's not a wax yet it is called 'soft wax' and it doesn't polish yet it gives a deep gloss (provided the paint prep is good) and you have to polish it after application but it isn't a polish. WTF?
Also, I could 'fake' the fine scratches with a colour wax or 'poorboys black hole' but I am not putting the Fusso wax on top of that.
It only covers swirls, it does not remove them.
The car is for regular use, not show.
Until you have used it and gone and done some research, it seems like you are being pedantic and you are starting to appear like a troll.
You just dont get it. Polishing in terms of car detailing does not mean the motion of waving a cloth back and forward on a surface. It means grinding (in the most delicate sense) the surface that has scratches and imperfections in it back to a level where it is all flat and smooth. Same as polishing a diamond.
To get the best gloss you dont just need a clean surface but also a smooth one, with the imperfections removed.
There is a whole part of the process that you just dont seem to get and/or acknowledge. And you misunderstand the parts that you are doing.
A clear gloss on top of a scratched surface will only add a layer of 'wetness' it wont stop the sun and other light sources from highlighting the fine scratches and swirls.
'Waxes' used to all be canauba but now is a generic term for sealant/protectant/depth enhancement and many of them are modern polymers etc. Some are even ceramic.
I have used it (Fusso) and many other products. I dont do it for a living because a) I dont want to and b) I am not an expert. But surprisingly I seem to understand the physics and the process and terminology better than someone who professes to be an expert and charges for his services.
I really didnt want to get into an argument with a prolific and respected member of the community here but I couldnt watch people being fed misinformation from you and take it as gospel.
You clearly are passionate about car detailing and you put alot of effort in - this Porsche seems to have been a good job of cleaning and protecting with some added gloss. But to poo poo the concept of polishing, the use of machines and imply that what you are doing is the same is just wrong and had to be corrected.
I respect what you do but if you are going to do it professionally then you need to learn more.
I will say no more because if you wont accept this then no amount of speaking the hard truth will get through so no point wasting my breath. I am trying to help but you wont listen.0 -
apreading wrote:Pinno wrote:apreading wrote:And the swirls are plain as day just below the glint of the sun in that shot, like cobwebs radiating out.
Where?! Which picture?
To say that it doesn't add a deep shine to the paint and it is just a sealant is testament to you having never used it.
From: http://www.soft99.co.jp/english/product ... ?pid=00298
"Fusso Coat 12 Months Wax
Features
Fluorine polymer, which has a sufficient anti-fouling ability effectively protects the car surface from rain, dirt and other unwanted residue. Its thick hard coating repels water strongly, as water smoothly runs down and off the car surface. The effects will last up to 12 months and keep the car in a good condition for a long period of time. Furthermore the hard paste wax can create clear gloss on the car body*."
*But - you have to get the surface clean if you want to get that gloss.
Don't take the manufacturers word for it. Jump on the Detailing world forum and have a read of the reviews and use of the Soft 99 wax. In fact, here's the link:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... p?t=327782
It's not a wax yet it is called 'soft wax' and it doesn't polish yet it gives a deep gloss (provided the paint prep is good) and you have to polish it after application but it isn't a polish. WTF?
Also, I could 'fake' the fine scratches with a colour wax or 'poorboys black hole' but I am not putting the Fusso wax on top of that.
It only covers swirls, it does not remove them.
The car is for regular use, not show.
Until you have used it and gone and done some research, it seems like you are being pedantic and you are starting to appear like a troll.
You just dont get it. Polishing in terms of car detailing does not mean the motion of waving a cloth back and forward on a surface. It means grinding (in the most delicate sense) the surface that has scratches and imperfections in it back to a level where it is all flat and smooth. Same as polishing a diamond.
To get the best gloss you dont just need a clean surface but also a smooth one, with the imperfections removed.
There is a whole part of the process that you just dont seem to get and/or acknowledge. And you misunderstand the parts that you are doing.
A clear gloss on top of a scratched surface will only add a layer of 'wetness' it wont stop the sun and other light sources from highlighting the fine scratches and swirls.
'Waxes' used to all be canauba but now is a generic term for sealant/protectant/depth enhancement and many of them are modern polymers etc. Some are even ceramic.
I have used it (Fusso) and many other products. I dont do it for a living because a) I dont want to and b) I am not an expert. But surprisingly I seem to understand the physics and the process and terminology better than someone who professes to be an expert and charges for his services.
I really didnt want to get into an argument with a prolific and respected member of the community here but I couldnt watch people being fed misinformation from you and take it as gospel.
You clearly are passionate about car detailing and you put alot of effort in - this Porsche seems to have been a good job of cleaning and protecting with some added gloss. But to poo poo the concept of polishing, the use of machines and imply that what you are doing is the same is just wrong and had to be corrected.
I respect what you do but if you are going to do it professionally then you need to learn more.
I will say no more because if you wont accept this then no amount of speaking the hard truth will get through so no point wasting my breath. I am trying to help but you wont listen.
@Apreading
This really is beyond the pale. I can't let this stand without passing comment.respected member of the community Pause 0 -
Ballysmate wrote:This really is beyond the pale. I can't let this stand without passing comment.respected member of the community Pause
To be fair, he is right about the 'member' bit "I spent most of my money on birds, booze and fast cars: the rest of it I just squandered." [George Best]0 -
apreading wrote:Pinno wrote:apreading wrote:And the swirls are plain as day just below the glint of the sun in that shot, like cobwebs radiating out.
Where?! Which picture?
To say that it doesn't add a deep shine to the paint and it is just a sealant is testament to you having never used it.
From: http://www.soft99.co.jp/english/product ... ?pid=00298
"Fusso Coat 12 Months Wax
Features
Fluorine polymer, which has a sufficient anti-fouling ability effectively protects the car surface from rain, dirt and other unwanted residue. Its thick hard coating repels water strongly, as water smoothly runs down and off the car surface. The effects will last up to 12 months and keep the car in a good condition for a long period of time. Furthermore the hard paste wax can create clear gloss on the car body*."
*But - you have to get the surface clean if you want to get that gloss.
Don't take the manufacturers word for it. Jump on the Detailing world forum and have a read of the reviews and use of the Soft 99 wax. In fact, here's the link:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... p?t=327782
It's not a wax yet it is called 'soft wax' and it doesn't polish yet it gives a deep gloss (provided the paint prep is good) and you have to polish it after application but it isn't a polish. WTF?
Also, I could 'fake' the fine scratches with a colour wax or 'poorboys black hole' but I am not putting the Fusso wax on top of that.
It only covers swirls, it does not remove them.
The car is for regular use, not show.
Until you have used it and gone and done some research, it seems like you are being pedantic and you are starting to appear like a troll.
You just dont get it. Polishing in terms of car detailing does not mean the motion of waving a cloth back and forward on a surface. It means grinding (in the most delicate sense) the surface that has scratches and imperfections in it back to a level where it is all flat and smooth. Same as polishing a diamond.
To get the best gloss you dont just need a clean surface but also a smooth one, with the imperfections removed.
There is a whole part of the process that you just dont seem to get and/or acknowledge. And you misunderstand the parts that you are doing.
A clear gloss on top of a scratched surface will only add a layer of 'wetness' it wont stop the sun and other light sources from highlighting the fine scratches and swirls.
'Waxes' used to all be canauba but now is a generic term for sealant/protectant/depth enhancement and many of them are modern polymers etc. Some are even ceramic.
I have used it (Fusso) and many other products. I dont do it for a living because a) I dont want to and b) I am not an expert. But surprisingly I seem to understand the physics and the process and terminology better than someone who professes to be an expert and charges for his services.
I really didnt want to get into an argument with a prolific and respected member of the community here but I couldnt watch people being fed misinformation from you and take it as gospel.
You clearly are passionate about car detailing and you put alot of effort in - this Porsche seems to have been a good job of cleaning and protecting with some added gloss. But to poo poo the concept of polishing, the use of machines and imply that what you are doing is the same is just wrong and had to be corrected.
I respect what you do but if you are going to do it professionally then you need to learn more.
I will say no more because if you wont accept this then no amount of speaking the hard truth will get through so no point wasting my breath. I am trying to help but you wont listen.
Now we know where Mr Miyagi went. Wax on wax off.0 -
Sorry apreading:
First of all, I never, ever posted anything that claimed that I was an expert.
Second, am I really going to bore anyone to death with a long winded explanation of every stage of a detail?
I use various products for scratch removal. I do not 'poo poo' machine polishers but you have (and there is no evidence) that doing the whole process by hand is sub standard in any shape or form.
The proof is in the pudding as they say and so far I have done a half dozen details for various people. It's just part time, I have yet to advertise and every single one of the my 'customers' have been very happy with the results.
Perhaps they are not as discerning as others one could argue but again, you have no evidence of that.
Anyway, I produce what I think is a good finish with the limited experience I have in a safe way - with the absolute minimum of risk to the paintwork.
I don't charge much (£75 to £100) per car (I don't detail interiors - just a general clean), I do the body work, alloys and glass. Sometimes some bumper black.
I have no idea why a) you are 'worried' and b) why it bothers you so much that I charge people for the service.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Never thought of Pinno as the karate kid either learning from the master, Apreading.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fULNUr0rvEc0 -
£100 thats cheap! Of the 2 car of mine that i have detailed id want £300 to do it to someone else's!
Both cars took about 20 hours not including the drying time for wheel sealant - carpro dlux.
Anyway, good effort on the porker.
I need a new wash mitt as my lambswool on fell apart, and clay bar - any recommendations?
I use the farecla claymitts from halfords, buy them on 3for2 when they have their offers on, but no good for wheels/tight spaces.
Last year i detailed my MK3 Focus ST Estate. Tar removed, clayed, machine polish with a DAS6 pro, sealed with carpro cquartz and waxed with fusso.
The wax lasted about 6 months and it needs doing again, just not had time.
Wheels off and full clean to spotless and sealed with the dlux, again, that needs redoing.
I need some more sealants so again, any recommendations?My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...0 -
Fudgey wrote:£100 thats cheap! Of the 2 car of mine that i have detailed id want £300 to do it to someone else's!
Both cars took about 20 hours not including the drying time for wheel sealant - carpro dlux.
Anyway, good effort on the porker.
I need a new wash mitt as my lambswool on fell apart, and clay bar - any recommendations?
I use the farecla claymitts from halfords, buy them on 3for2 when they have their offers on, but no good for wheels/tight spaces.
Last year i detailed my MK3 Focus ST Estate. Tar removed, clayed, machine polish with a DAS6 pro, sealed with carpro cquartz and waxed with fusso.
The wax lasted about 6 months and it needs doing again, just not had time.
Wheels off and full clean to spotless and sealed with the dlux, again, that needs redoing.
I need some more sealants so again, any recommendations?
Underbody sealants or bodywork sealants?
Underbody - Tetrosyl spray. Very easy to use.
I have never used mitts but I found the Halfrauds microfibre cloths to be not that good TBH. I like the Autoglym micro fibre cloths much better:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOGLYM-High ... Swn-tZHhkv
Very good value. Autoglym do mitts too.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
I like the Meguiars lambswool wash mitt. Mine seem to last for ages and the back has a mesh for getting bugs off the windscreen that seems to work well.
For clay bars, the Bilt Hamber ones are well regarded and dont need any special lubricant, just water.
Fusso or Collinite are my favourite sealants - both long lasting rather than ultra glossy. You can top them with something more glossy though, like King of Gloss which is great for dark cars.
Now is a good time to put a good sealant on - to protect it from all the salt etc they are spreading for the next couple of months.0 -
Pinno wrote:Fudgey wrote:£100 thats cheap! Of the 2 car of mine that i have detailed id want £300 to do it to someone else's!
Both cars took about 20 hours not including the drying time for wheel sealant - carpro dlux.
Anyway, good effort on the porker.
I need a new wash mitt as my lambswool on fell apart, and clay bar - any recommendations?
I use the farecla claymitts from halfords, buy them on 3for2 when they have their offers on, but no good for wheels/tight spaces.
Last year i detailed my MK3 Focus ST Estate. Tar removed, clayed, machine polish with a DAS6 pro, sealed with carpro cquartz and waxed with fusso.
The wax lasted about 6 months and it needs doing again, just not had time.
Wheels off and full clean to spotless and sealed with the dlux, again, that needs redoing.
I need some more sealants so again, any recommendations?
Underbody sealants or bodywork sealants?
Underbody - Tetrosyl spray. Very easy to use.
I have never used mitts but I found the Halfrauds microfibre cloths to be not that good TBH. I like the Autoglym micro fibre cloths much better:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOGLYM-High ... Swn-tZHhkv
Very good value. Autoglym do mitts too.
I'm a Tetrosyl waxoil fan it's 500ml spray can is very handy -- the fine spray gets to every dark corner and the can empties every drop even without heating it ( although it goes on better heated a little ) whereas hammerite waxoil is 400ml can -- more expensive and is like spraying butter even with heating it real hot it won't empty the can. Using a Sprayer with 5ltr can is awful messy and a false economy ( on a domestic scale ) I've found.0 -
Cowsham wrote:Pinno wrote:Fudgey wrote:£100 thats cheap! Of the 2 car of mine that i have detailed id want £300 to do it to someone else's!
Both cars took about 20 hours not including the drying time for wheel sealant - carpro dlux.
Anyway, good effort on the porker.
I need a new wash mitt as my lambswool on fell apart, and clay bar - any recommendations?
I use the farecla claymitts from halfords, buy them on 3for2 when they have their offers on, but no good for wheels/tight spaces.
Last year i detailed my MK3 Focus ST Estate. Tar removed, clayed, machine polish with a DAS6 pro, sealed with carpro cquartz and waxed with fusso.
The wax lasted about 6 months and it needs doing again, just not had time.
Wheels off and full clean to spotless and sealed with the dlux, again, that needs redoing.
I need some more sealants so again, any recommendations?
Underbody sealants or bodywork sealants?
Underbody - Tetrosyl spray. Very easy to use.
I have never used mitts but I found the Halfrauds microfibre cloths to be not that good TBH. I like the Autoglym micro fibre cloths much better:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOGLYM-High ... Swn-tZHhkv
Very good value. Autoglym do mitts too.
I'm a Tetrosyl waxoil fan it's 500ml spray can is very handy -- the fine spray gets to every dark corner and the can empties every drop even without heating it ( although it goes on better heated a little ) whereas hammerite waxoil is 400ml can -- more expensive and is like spraying butter even with heating it real hot it won't empty the can. Using a Sprayer with 5ltr can is awful messy and a false economy ( on a domestic scale ) I've found.
TBH, most people don't give a monkeys about "detailing" whatever that is. I "believe" (correct me if i'm wrong) it is purely for single young men to take some personal responsibility "polishing the motor" after hanging out at the local tesco carpark. Eventually they meet a girl, have babies and buy a house so the "responsibility" switches to important things, like DIY, feeding the family, hiding in the shed, running away.0 -
I met a girl, we had babies and I have a house and the "responsibility" switched to important things, like DIY, feeding the family, hiding in the shed, running away.
Detailing isn't necessarily about blinging your pimp ride up, it's just a way of making some cash on the side for me. So I am cashing in on other people's vanity or their desire to show off their Audicedeswagon. All of my customers so far have been over 35 - it's the only one's that can afford it. I did an Audi A6 that looked terrible. It had the remains of badly removed advertising decals all over it and I approached the owner in a super market car park and said that I could 'sort the paint work'.
I don't think he thought it was possible but he gave it a go. So it went from tired, unloved, covered in bits of decals and adhesive to a well presentable car - he was over the moon.
I bought an old Merc. It was a bit tired looking. I clay barred it. I then sealed it and waxed it. It made an old car look fantastic. I won't have to clay bar it again for a few years and wax it for another year. In the meanwhile, due to the repellent nature of the soft wax, I can take it down to the local car wash and with a lance, clean the thing for a £1 (3 minute cycle) and not put the brush anywhere near it (I never use the brush - it's always filthy). It's far quicker and more convenient than trawling all my pressure washer bits and bobs out and the hose and tidy the mess on my drive...
So 'detailing' for me in terms of paint work is simply the process of restoring and enhancing the existing paintwork without spending a fortune.
I clay barred my Transit van. You may wonder why - it was because I was getting the sills done and 2 new wings. The reason I did it was because I didn't want a massive difference between the old paintwork and the partial re-spray.
So that's detailing for a completely different reason.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
darkhairedlord wrote:Cowsham wrote:Pinno wrote:Fudgey wrote:£100 thats cheap! Of the 2 car of mine that i have detailed id want £300 to do it to someone else's!
Both cars took about 20 hours not including the drying time for wheel sealant - carpro dlux.
Anyway, good effort on the porker.
I need a new wash mitt as my lambswool on fell apart, and clay bar - any recommendations?
I use the farecla claymitts from halfords, buy them on 3for2 when they have their offers on, but no good for wheels/tight spaces.
Last year i detailed my MK3 Focus ST Estate. Tar removed, clayed, machine polish with a DAS6 pro, sealed with carpro cquartz and waxed with fusso.
The wax lasted about 6 months and it needs doing again, just not had time.
Wheels off and full clean to spotless and sealed with the dlux, again, that needs redoing.
I need some more sealants so again, any recommendations?
Underbody sealants or bodywork sealants?
Underbody - Tetrosyl spray. Very easy to use.
I have never used mitts but I found the Halfrauds microfibre cloths to be not that good TBH. I like the Autoglym micro fibre cloths much better:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOGLYM-High ... Swn-tZHhkv
Very good value. Autoglym do mitts too.
I'm a Tetrosyl waxoil fan it's 500ml spray can is very handy -- the fine spray gets to every dark corner and the can empties every drop even without heating it ( although it goes on better heated a little ) whereas hammerite waxoil is 400ml can -- more expensive and is like spraying butter even with heating it real hot it won't empty the can. Using a Sprayer with 5ltr can is awful messy and a false economy ( on a domestic scale ) I've found.
TBH, most people don't give a monkeys about "detailing" whatever that is. I "believe" (correct me if i'm wrong) it is purely for single young men to take some personal responsibility "polishing the motor" after hanging out at the local tesco carpark. Eventually they meet a girl, have babies and buy a house so the "responsibility" switches to important things, like DIY, feeding the family, hiding in the shed, running away.
When your talking waxoil your meaning preservation -- which is what you do when you've got to the kids bit.0
