First road bike - advice neded
lurpak
Posts: 78
Hi guys,
I am looking for some advice on a first road bike for under £500. I plan to use it for sportive and triathlons so needs to be comfortable etc. Having had a look around the end of season sales and eBay a few bikes have caught my eye...
Giant contend 2
Specialized allez
Roux vercors r9
Vitus razor
Vitus Razor vr
Boardman Sport.
The roux is interesting me most at moment as heavily discounted and therefore offers shimano tiagra groups etc rather than the claris on most of the others. The problem is I can't find any reviews on them. Has anyone got any experience of them?
Any alternative suggestions welcomed.
I am looking for some advice on a first road bike for under £500. I plan to use it for sportive and triathlons so needs to be comfortable etc. Having had a look around the end of season sales and eBay a few bikes have caught my eye...
Giant contend 2
Specialized allez
Roux vercors r9
Vitus razor
Vitus Razor vr
Boardman Sport.
The roux is interesting me most at moment as heavily discounted and therefore offers shimano tiagra groups etc rather than the claris on most of the others. The problem is I can't find any reviews on them. Has anyone got any experience of them?
Any alternative suggestions welcomed.
0
Comments
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With Boardman on this list can I take it you are in the UK? The problem with the UK is that most of the roads are hell-hole potholed roughly surface dressed crap roads. In this case I'd seriously counsel you AGAINST any of the bikes on your list as they are aluminium alloy framed bikes. Also I'd never get a crapola Claris groupset, but Tiagra is a fantastic groupset for the money, also Sora is good too.
Of course Tiagra with a steel frame is going to cost a fair bit more, like minimum 1000 pounds, with bikes like the Genesis Equilibrium or some Konas, Bianchi Volpe etc. A bike that can be 'demoted' to being a winter bike/commuting/CX/bikepacking/fast touring bike. but will always have a proud place in your garage for certain types of riding.
If you ignore my suggestion get a bike with at least a Sora orTiagra groupset and put a carbon fibre seatpost on it.0 -
Yes I am in the UK. I currently ride a trek fx7.2 on the commute which has served me well for my first triathlon and some long weekend rides on good and bad roads. However with a rather hilly 100km ride coming up though I want to invest in something lighter/faster. I do like the sound of the roux for value...carbon fork, tiagra 4600 groupset, internal cable routing and shimano r500 wheelset but having not heard of them or seen any reviews I am bit apprehensive about what the bike will be like as it would be a online order0
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If this is your first road bike I'd be careful about buying it online unless you are absolutely certain that you know which geometry and size you need/want. If possible go to a LBS and try a few bikes for size and fit, it gives you the opportunity to see the bikes in the flesh so to speak. Also bear in mind if there are any minor problems with your purchase and you are not competent/confident in solving them yourself, you will have to use an LBS or send the bike back to the online retailer. Any major warranty issues you would probably need to send it back, unless the manufacture will allow you to take it to any of their retail branch network. I'd recommend you get a bike that will take 28c tyres and has mudguard mounts.0
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I am planning to go try the roux out at a lbs if they still stock it. I have ready tried the specialized in a 58 which felt comfortable hence the assumption on size needed. I have also thrown leg over the giant in a xl but not yet had chance to try it.0
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Crazy idea but hear me out.
Get British Cycling Ride membership and then 10% discounts at Halfords and Chainreaction.
You could then get the Boardman CX Comp for under £500, stick on slicks for your sportives and triathlons with the option to take it on trails.
Downsides are it's Halfords so not the most professional advice on sizing and their six week service may do more harm than good.0 -
Have you ever ridden a bike in the UK? There is absolutely nothing wrong with using an aluminium bike on UK roads. Tyre selection and pressure has a far greater impact on comfort than frame material.ZMC888 wrote:With Boardman on this list can I take it you are in the UK? The problem with the UK is that most of the roads are hell-hole potholed roughly surface dressed crap roads. In this case I'd seriously counsel you AGAINST any of the bikes on your list as they are aluminium alloy framed bikes. Also I'd never get a crapola Claris groupset, but Tiagra is a fantastic groupset for the money, also Sora is good too.
Of course Tiagra with a steel frame is going to cost a fair bit more, like minimum 1000 pounds, with bikes like the Genesis Equilibrium or some Konas, Bianchi Volpe etc. A bike that can be 'demoted' to being a winter bike/commuting/CX/bikepacking/fast touring bike. but will always have a proud place in your garage for certain types of riding.
If you ignore my suggestion get a bike with at least a Sora orTiagra groupset and put a carbon fibre seatpost on it.0 -
Bungle73 wrote:ZMC888 wrote:With Boardman on this list can I take it you are in the UK? The problem with the UK is that most of the roads are hell-hole potholed roughly surface dressed crap roads. If you ignore my suggestion get a bike with at least a Sora orTiagra groupset and put a carbon fibre seatpost on it.
Have you ever ridden a bike in the UK? There is absolutely nothing wrong with using an aluminium bike on UK roads. Tyre selection and pressure has a far greater impact on comfort than frame material.
While I agree with ZMC888's assessment regarding the quality of some of the roads in the UK, my first road bike is an alu. double butted frame with carbon fork/seatpost. I did fit a 23mm wide rim wheelset and 28c tyres/latex tubes and lowered the tyre pressures appropriately for my weight, this I found made the ride more comfortable than with the O.E. narrower rims and 23c tyres at higher pressures. I have read on BR that the Cannondale alu. frames are supposedly the smoothest alu. riding bikes?0 -
What is the difference between a triple and double butted frame? Will any of the bikes I have mentioned take the wider tyres?0
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Nothing. Its sales talk.lurpak wrote:What is the difference between a triple and double butted frame? Will any of the bikes I have mentioned take the wider tyres?
The Boardman Comp Cx will probably take the widest tyres0 -
DJ58 wrote:Bungle73 wrote:ZMC888 wrote:With Boardman on this list can I take it you are in the UK? The problem with the UK is that most of the roads are hell-hole potholed roughly surface dressed crap roads. If you ignore my suggestion get a bike with at least a Sora orTiagra groupset and put a carbon fibre seatpost on it.
Have you ever ridden a bike in the UK? There is absolutely nothing wrong with using an aluminium bike on UK roads. Tyre selection and pressure has a far greater impact on comfort than frame material.
While I agree with ZMC888's assessment regarding the quality of some of the roads in the UK, my first road bike is an alu. double butted frame with carbon fork/seatpost. I did fit a 23mm wide rim wheelset and 28c tyres/latex tubes and lowered the tyre pressures appropriately for my weight, this I found made the ride more comfortable than with the O.E. narrower rims and 23c tyres at higher pressures. I have read on BR that the Cannondale alu. frames are supposedly the smoothest alu. riding bikes?
Riding an alu frame/carbon fork with 28 mm tyres here (at an appropriate pressure), and over some pretty rough roads too. I'm willing to bet that most people are probably riding alu frames in the UK.0 -
lurpak wrote:What is the difference between a triple and double butted frame? Will any of the bikes I have mentioned take the wider tyres?
THREE GRADES OF Giant's ALUXX ALUMINUM TECHNOLOGY:
ALUXX SLR Giant's lightest, state-of-the-art aluminum frameset technology featuring our highest strength-to-weight ratios, most advanced forming methods, and unique welding techniques
Materials
•Exclusively features 6011A alloy for unprecedented strength-to weight ratio
Forming methods
•State-of-the-art butting results in 20 percent thinner (and lighter) tubes than ALUXX SL
•Features extensive Fluid Forming (sophisticated manipulation of tubeset shaping via an injection of high-pressure fluid) and some Press Forming (basic manipulation of tubeset shaping via direct mechanical pressure)
Welding techniques
•Features both Smooth (double-pass weld technique with hand-sanding to reduce stress risers) and Slim (custom-fit tube junctures to decrease weld material) welding techniques for minimal weight, maximum strength and the cleanest aesthetics.
ALUXX SL Extremely lightweight framesets featuring high-performance strength-to-weight ratios
Materials
•Predominantly features 6011 alloy for a high-performance strength-to-weight ratio
Forming methods
•Double butting results in lighter weight without sacrificing strength
•Features PressForming, WarmForming (advanced manipulation of tubeset shaping via an injection of high-pressure air) and FluidForming in select models
Welding techniques
•Features both Standard (double-pass weld technique without finish sanding/filing) and Smooth welding techniques for outstanding strength and weight.
ALUXX Lightweight framesets featuring optimized strength-to-weight ratios.
Materials
•6061 alloy for optimized strength-toweight ratios
Forming methods
•Single butting results in light weight without sacrificing strength
•Predominantly features PressForming
Welding techniques
•Predominantly features Standard and some Smooth welding techniques for optimized strength and weight.0 -
DJ58 wrote:lurpak wrote:What is the difference between a triple and double butted frame? Will any of the bikes I have mentioned take the wider tyres?
THREE GRADES OF Giant's ALUXX ALUMINUM TECHNOLOGY:
ALUXX SLR Giant's lightest, state-of-the-art aluminum frameset technology featuring our highest strength-to-weight ratios, most advanced forming methods, and unique welding techniques
Materials
•Exclusively features 6011A alloy for unprecedented strength-to weight ratio
Forming methods
•State-of-the-art butting results in 20 percent thinner (and lighter) tubes than ALUXX SL
•Features extensive Fluid Forming (sophisticated manipulation of tubeset shaping via an injection of high-pressure fluid) and some Press Forming (basic manipulation of tubeset shaping via direct mechanical pressure)
Welding techniques
•Features both Smooth (double-pass weld technique with hand-sanding to reduce stress risers) and Slim (custom-fit tube junctures to decrease weld material) welding techniques for minimal weight, maximum strength and the cleanest aesthetics.
ALUXX SL Extremely lightweight framesets featuring high-performance strength-to-weight ratios
Materials
•Predominantly features 6011 alloy for a high-performance strength-to-weight ratio
Forming methods
•Double butting results in lighter weight without sacrificing strength
•Features PressForming, WarmForming (advanced manipulation of tubeset shaping via an injection of high-pressure air) and FluidForming in select models
Welding techniques
•Features both Standard (double-pass weld technique without finish sanding/filing) and Smooth welding techniques for outstanding strength and weight.
ALUXX Lightweight framesets featuring optimized strength-to-weight ratios.
Materials
•6061 alloy for optimized strength-toweight ratios
Forming methods
•Single butting results in light weight without sacrificing strength
•Predominantly features PressForming
Welding techniques
•Predominantly features Standard and some Smooth welding techniques for optimized strength and weight.
Does that mean triple is meant to be lightest but offer same level of strength?0 -
Its a £500 bike none of them are any better than each other. Buy the one that fits best.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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Apart from the roux should be closer to a grand but I can find it for £400.thecycleclinic wrote:Its a £500 bike none of them are any better than each other. Buy the one that fits best.0 -
FFS buy a bike.lurpak wrote:What is the difference between a triple and double butted frame? Will any of the bikes I have mentioned take the wider tyres?
You are not untypiccal - Ask a question and ignore the advice. It pisses people off. You've been given adivce on frames that take wider tyres. What do you want to hear?
FFS buy a bike. You're overthinking this shit.0 -
PhilipPirrip wrote:
FFS buy a bike.lurpak wrote:What is the difference between a triple and double butted frame? Will any of the bikes I have mentioned take the wider tyres?
You are not untypiccal - Ask a question and ignore the advice. It pisses people off. You've been given adivce on frames that take wider tyres. What do you want to hear?
FFS buy a bike. You're overthinking this shoot.
I plan to
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Please. Please. Please.
I'm not wishing to be impersonal but your initial goal is there. You'l;l spend more money, guaranteed, but get out on the the bike first and foremost.0 -
PhilipPirrip wrote:Please. Please. Please.
I'm not wishing to be impersonal but your initial goal is there. You'l;l spend more money, guaranteed, but get out on the the bike first and foremost.
So if it was your money which would you go for?0 -
Probably your best bet is to waste the time of your local lbs trying different bikes, then buy off the internet, then in a couple of years time moan about your local lbs shutting down.0
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I bought a Mango Point R as my first road bike. I love it. However, if Facebook is anything to go by, the company has some serious customer service and communication problems. Or maybe that's just the "people experiencing issues are more likely to make noises than those that don't" phenomenon at work, as I never had any problems with them.0
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lurpak wrote:PhilipPirrip wrote:Please. Please. Please.
I'm not wishing to be impersonal but your initial goal is there. You'l;l spend more money, guaranteed, but get out on the the bike first and foremost.
So if it was your money which would you go for?
Choose between one of these 4
Giant contend 2
Specialized allez
Vitus Razor vr
Boardman Sport0 -
Yes freaking thousands of KMs in the UK, I'm an expat and spend 3 months a year riding in the UK in a good/bad year and even own a alu bike there, but hate using it, wish I had a ti or steel frame. Fact is the moment you leave the UK you get a massive shock, 'this is what actual roads should be like?' 'Rather than these 'austerity underfunded bollox cheese grater shite lunar-landscape crap?' Most of the roads in Asia and Europe are better, even in developing countries.Bungle73 wrote:
Have you ever ridden a bike in the UK? There is absolutely nothing wrong with using an aluminium bike on UK roads. Tyre selection and pressure has a far greater impact on comfort than frame material.ZMC888 wrote:With Boardman on this list can I take it you are in the UK? The problem with the UK is that most of the roads are hell-hole potholed roughly surface dressed crap roads. In this case I'd seriously counsel you AGAINST any of the bikes on your list as they are aluminium alloy framed bikes. Also I'd never get a crapola Claris groupset, but Tiagra is a fantastic groupset for the money, also Sora is good too.
Of course Tiagra with a steel frame is going to cost a fair bit more, like minimum 1000 pounds, with bikes like the Genesis Equilibrium or some Konas, Bianchi Volpe etc. A bike that can be 'demoted' to being a winter bike/commuting/CX/bikepacking/fast touring bike. but will always have a proud place in your garage for certain types of riding.
If you ignore my suggestion get a bike with at least a Sora orTiagra groupset and put a carbon fibre seatpost on it.
Sure the the Motorways and Dual carriage ways are pretty smooth (like normal roads in other countries), but the are either not safe or legal to ride on. Running less PSI and a wider tire if it will fit, and a CF seatpost will help, but basically they're just band-aids. Really the roads are that bad in the UK these days that I really couldn't recommend anyone have an alu frame in the UK. The only people that could ever recommend them would be bike shops selling product or people that own one and haven't tried any other kind of frame.0 -
ZMC888 wrote:
Yes freaking thousands of KMs in the UK, I'm an expat and spend 3 months a year riding in the UK in a good/bad year and even own a alu bike there, but hate using it, wish I had a ti or steel frame. Fact is the moment you leave the UK you get a massive shock, 'this is what actual roads should be like?' 'Rather than these 'austerity underfunded bollox cheese grater shite lunar-landscape crap?' Most of the roads in Asia and Europe are better, even in developing countries.Bungle73 wrote:
Have you ever ridden a bike in the UK? There is absolutely nothing wrong with using an aluminium bike on UK roads. Tyre selection and pressure has a far greater impact on comfort than frame material.ZMC888 wrote:With Boardman on this list can I take it you are in the UK? The problem with the UK is that most of the roads are hell-hole potholed roughly surface dressed crap roads. In this case I'd seriously counsel you AGAINST any of the bikes on your list as they are aluminium alloy framed bikes. Also I'd never get a crapola Claris groupset, but Tiagra is a fantastic groupset for the money, also Sora is good too.
Of course Tiagra with a steel frame is going to cost a fair bit more, like minimum 1000 pounds, with bikes like the Genesis Equilibrium or some Konas, Bianchi Volpe etc. A bike that can be 'demoted' to being a winter bike/commuting/CX/bikepacking/fast touring bike. but will always have a proud place in your garage for certain types of riding.
If you ignore my suggestion get a bike with at least a Sora orTiagra groupset and put a carbon fibre seatpost on it.
Sure the the Motorways and Dual carriage ways are pretty smooth (like normal roads in other countries), but the are either not safe or legal to ride on. Running less PSI and a wider tire if it will fit, and a CF seatpost will help, but basically they're just band-aids. Really the roads are that bad in the UK these days that I really couldn't recommend anyone have an alu frame in the UK. The only people that could ever recommend them would be bike shops selling product or people that own one and haven't tried any other kind of frame.
There seems to be a "grass is always greener" theme running through your post: some other bike frame than the one you have would be "better", and every other country's roads are "better" then the UK's (which they aren't, eg http://www.economicstogo.eu/2015/09/19/ ... n-germany/)
You realise that the "aluminium frames give a harsh ride" thing is a (almost) total myth right? A modern, well-designed. frame provides just as compliant ride as any other type of frame material. You don't have to take my word for it, this is explained in lots of places if you research it.
https://youtu.be/fs3dVILHw6k?t=1m40s
andDid you know that:
Aluminum frames have a harsh ride?
Titanium frames are soft and whippy?
Steel frames go soft with age, but they have a nicer ride quality?
England's Queen Elizabeth is a kingpin of the international drug trade?
All of the above statements are equally false.
There is an amazing amount of folkloric "conventional wisdom" about bicycle frames and materials that is widely disseminated, but has no basis in fact.
The reality is that you can make a good bike frame out of any of these metals, with any desired riding qualities, by selecting appropriate tubing diameters, wall thicknesses and frame geometry.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-mate ... l#aluminum
And you realise that pretty much all alu frames come with a carbon fork anyway now?0 -
Get a bike and ride!0
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Bungle73 wrote:ZMC888 wrote:
Yes freaking thousands of KMs in the UK, I'm an expat and spend 3 months a year riding in the UK in a good/bad year and even own a alu bike there, but hate using it, wish I had a ti or steel frame. Fact is the moment you leave the UK you get a massive shock, 'this is what actual roads should be like?' 'Rather than these 'austerity underfunded bollox cheese grater shite lunar-landscape crap?' Most of the roads in Asia and Europe are better, even in developing countries.Bungle73 wrote:
Have you ever ridden a bike in the UK? There is absolutely nothing wrong with using an aluminium bike on UK roads. Tyre selection and pressure has a far greater impact on comfort than frame material.ZMC888 wrote:With Boardman on this list can I take it you are in the UK? The problem with the UK is that most of the roads are hell-hole potholed roughly surface dressed crap roads. In this case I'd seriously counsel you AGAINST any of the bikes on your list as they are aluminium alloy framed bikes. Also I'd never get a crapola Claris groupset, but Tiagra is a fantastic groupset for the money, also Sora is good too.
Of course Tiagra with a steel frame is going to cost a fair bit more, like minimum 1000 pounds, with bikes like the Genesis Equilibrium or some Konas, Bianchi Volpe etc. A bike that can be 'demoted' to being a winter bike/commuting/CX/bikepacking/fast touring bike. but will always have a proud place in your garage for certain types of riding.
If you ignore my suggestion get a bike with at least a Sora orTiagra groupset and put a carbon fibre seatpost on it.
Sure the the Motorways and Dual carriage ways are pretty smooth (like normal roads in other countries), but the are either not safe or legal to ride on. Running less PSI and a wider tire if it will fit, and a CF seatpost will help, but basically they're just band-aids. Really the roads are that bad in the UK these days that I really couldn't recommend anyone have an alu frame in the UK. The only people that could ever recommend them would be bike shops selling product or people that own one and haven't tried any other kind of frame.
There seems to be a "grass is always greener" theme running through your post: some other bike frame than the one you have would be "better", and every other country's roads are "better" then the UK's (which they aren't, eg http://www.economicstogo.eu/2015/09/19/ ... n-germany/)
You realise that the "aluminium frames give a harsh ride" thing is a (almost) total myth right? A modern, well-designed. frame provides just as compliant ride as any other type of frame material. You don't have to take my word for it, this is explained in lots of places if you research it.
https://youtu.be/fs3dVILHw6k?t=1m40s
andDid you know that:
Aluminum frames have a harsh ride?
Titanium frames are soft and whippy?
Steel frames go soft with age, but they have a nicer ride quality?
England's Queen Elizabeth is a kingpin of the international drug trade?
All of the above statements are equally false.
There is an amazing amount of folkloric "conventional wisdom" about bicycle frames and materials that is widely disseminated, but has no basis in fact.
The reality is that you can make a good bike frame out of any of these metals, with any desired riding qualities, by selecting appropriate tubing diameters, wall thicknesses and frame geometry.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-mate ... l#aluminum
And you realise that pretty much all alu frames come with a carbon fork anyway now?
It sounds like you own an alu alloy frame, just like others fighting the corner for disk brakes in dry countries because they just spent coin on one. Have you ever ridden outside UK or ridden another frame other than alu alloy?
I own 3 steel frame bikes, one ti four alu alloy bikes and on my 2nd carbon fibre frame. I'm not pedalling some 'cycle myth' that goes against what you want to believe, but personal experience.
In the UK I'd run 28mm tires at 60-90psi, with a steel or carbon fibre frame probably a CX, because I like the higher BB because the roads are shite. Why most frames available in the UK are alu is beyond me, they're obviously just cheap to make and sell with a crushing 20% VAT. I just did nearly 2000kms in Devon and Herefordshire and the roads were shockingly poor.
That's just my OPINION. You can argue about it all you like.0 -
Think some people are maybe over thinking this bike riding game.
1. Buy a bike
2. Ride it
3. Buy a better bike if required
4. Ride better bike
5. Don't become a "cake stop" / "internet expert"
6. Don't sit on the same table at the cake stop as an "expert"
7. Ride solo then you don't have to listen to b-llshit from cycling "experts"
8. Clothes are clothes.
Don't get hung up, just enjoy the ride.0 -
Frank Wilson wrote:Think some people are maybe over thinking this bike riding game.
1. Buy a bike
2. Ride it
3. Buy a better bike if required
4. Ride better bike
5. Don't become a "cake stop" / "internet expert"
6. Don't sit on the same table at the cake stop as an "expert"
7. Ride solo then you don't have to listen to b-llshit from cycling "experts"
8. Clothes are clothes.
Don't get hung up, just enjoy the ride.
There's nothing wrong with giving an opinion to someone asking for it especially if you have direct experience about the subject. Others can give their own opinions and if they differ, that's fine, and address those to the OP.
Problems arise when other 'experts' see alternative opinions as a personal attack or 'wrong' as it contravenes their choice supportive bias https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choice-supportive_bias. Then cherry-picked internet facts are used as ammunition in a pathetic flame attack.0 -
ZMC888 wrote:Bungle73 wrote:ZMC888 wrote:
Yes freaking thousands of KMs in the UK, I'm an expat and spend 3 months a year riding in the UK in a good/bad year and even own a alu bike there, but hate using it, wish I had a ti or steel frame. Fact is the moment you leave the UK you get a massive shock, 'this is what actual roads should be like?' 'Rather than these 'austerity underfunded bollox cheese grater shite lunar-landscape crap?' Most of the roads in Asia and Europe are better, even in developing countries.Bungle73 wrote:
Have you ever ridden a bike in the UK? There is absolutely nothing wrong with using an aluminium bike on UK roads. Tyre selection and pressure has a far greater impact on comfort than frame material.ZMC888 wrote:With Boardman on this list can I take it you are in the UK? The problem with the UK is that most of the roads are hell-hole potholed roughly surface dressed crap roads. In this case I'd seriously counsel you AGAINST any of the bikes on your list as they are aluminium alloy framed bikes. Also I'd never get a crapola Claris groupset, but Tiagra is a fantastic groupset for the money, also Sora is good too.
Of course Tiagra with a steel frame is going to cost a fair bit more, like minimum 1000 pounds, with bikes like the Genesis Equilibrium or some Konas, Bianchi Volpe etc. A bike that can be 'demoted' to being a winter bike/commuting/CX/bikepacking/fast touring bike. but will always have a proud place in your garage for certain types of riding.
If you ignore my suggestion get a bike with at least a Sora orTiagra groupset and put a carbon fibre seatpost on it.
Sure the the Motorways and Dual carriage ways are pretty smooth (like normal roads in other countries), but the are either not safe or legal to ride on. Running less PSI and a wider tire if it will fit, and a CF seatpost will help, but basically they're just band-aids. Really the roads are that bad in the UK these days that I really couldn't recommend anyone have an alu frame in the UK. The only people that could ever recommend them would be bike shops selling product or people that own one and haven't tried any other kind of frame.
There seems to be a "grass is always greener" theme running through your post: some other bike frame than the one you have would be "better", and every other country's roads are "better" then the UK's (which they aren't, eg http://www.economicstogo.eu/2015/09/19/ ... n-germany/)
You realise that the "aluminium frames give a harsh ride" thing is a (almost) total myth right? A modern, well-designed. frame provides just as compliant ride as any other type of frame material. You don't have to take my word for it, this is explained in lots of places if you research it.
https://youtu.be/fs3dVILHw6k?t=1m40s
andDid you know that:
Aluminum frames have a harsh ride?
Titanium frames are soft and whippy?
Steel frames go soft with age, but they have a nicer ride quality?
England's Queen Elizabeth is a kingpin of the international drug trade?
All of the above statements are equally false.
There is an amazing amount of folkloric "conventional wisdom" about bicycle frames and materials that is widely disseminated, but has no basis in fact.
The reality is that you can make a good bike frame out of any of these metals, with any desired riding qualities, by selecting appropriate tubing diameters, wall thicknesses and frame geometry.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-mate ... l#aluminum
And you realise that pretty much all alu frames come with a carbon fork anyway now?
It sounds like you own an alu alloy frame, just like others fighting the corner for disk brakes in dry countries because they just spent coin on one. Have you ever ridden outside UK or ridden another frame other than alu alloy?
I own 3 steel frame bikes, one ti four alu alloy bikes and on my 2nd carbon fibre frame. I'm not pedalling some 'cycle myth' that goes against what you want to believe, but personal experience.
In the UK I'd run 28mm tires at 60-90psi, with a steel or carbon fibre frame probably a CX, because I like the higher BB because the roads are shite. Why most frames available in the UK are alu is beyond me, they're obviously just cheap to make and sell with a crushing 20% VAT. I just did nearly 2000kms in Devon and Herefordshire and the roads were shockingly poor.
That's just my OPINION. You can argue about it all you like.
I'm not talking about what I believe, I'm talking about facts. Facts that I just proved to you. How many more sources do you need me to quote?
The problem I have is that you coming on here proclaiming how terrible alu frames are and stating that no one should buy them (and therefore precluding 99% of the bikes someone looking for a first road bike would be looking at) because they are so terrible is hyperbolic in the extreme.
I think you're also being hyperbolic about the state of UK roads too tbh, because ime (judging from the roads I ride), while some are in quite a poor state, others are perfectly acceptable. You talk like every single road is full of pot holes the size of craters, and were that the case it would make no difference what frame one had, one would be better off with a fs mtb.0
