Problems with Rear Mechs
Comments
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You talkin' to me? You talkin' to me? You talkin' to me?Pinno wrote:Long cable shouldn't be a problem - at least there are no kinks in it, unlike you.0 -
bompington wrote:
You talkin' to me? You talkin' to me? You talkin' to me?Pinno wrote:Long cable shouldn't be a problem - at least there are no kinks in it, unlike you.
No that VN bloke.
Sorted it yet?seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Shouldn’t being the operative word. The shortest route without too tight a radius and with no kinks is best. This is especially true if ever riding narrow singletrack as an errant bit of shrubbery can get caught in too long a loop. Not a problem with road riding I grant you and I have no idea if Bomp likes to get mucky.Pinno wrote:Long cable shouldn't be a problem - at least there are no kinks in it, unlike you.
I know you find that an unacceptable kink Piña.0 -
Veronese68 wrote:
The shortest route without too tight a radius and with no kinks is best.Pinno wrote:Long cable shouldn't be a problem - at least there are no kinks in it, unlike you.
No sh1t Sherlock but an extra long loop shouldn't cause that much friction.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Friction is not the problem, full length outers are not a problem. As above, in a bike intended for off road use snagging is to be avoided.Pinno wrote:Veronese68 wrote:
The shortest route without too tight a radius and with no kinks is best.Pinno wrote:Long cable shouldn't be a problem - at least there are no kinks in it, unlike you.
No sh1t Sherlock but an extra long loop shouldn't cause that much friction.0 -
Veronese68 wrote:
Friction is not the problem, full length outers are not a problem. As above, in a bike intended for off road use snagging is to be avoided.Pinno wrote:Veronese68 wrote:
The shortest route without too tight a radius and with no kinks is best.Pinno wrote:Long cable shouldn't be a problem - at least there are no kinks in it, unlike you.
No sh1t Sherlock but an extra long loop shouldn't cause that much friction.
Bompy's original concern was this:
"As for actual rear mech;s - any clues on what to do with one that is starting to get a bit sticky? Anyone ever actually totally disassembled a Sram mechª? "
I think we have eliminated the rear mech as the problem. He also commutes. Now I know it's Scotland and you think the whole of it is rural but we do have street lighting and Tarmac was even invented here, so I doubt he goes off road on his way to work.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
I’m not arguing, I agree it sounds like that bit of outer could be the issue. But it’s a cross bike, he might like to take it off road on occasion. I commute on my cross bike in London, but I take it off road as well just for fun or on trails if I take a longer commute. So I believe the best option would be to use a good cable with a sealed ferrule carefully routed. If he never takes it off road having the cable routing a bit neater will do no harm.Pinno wrote:I think we have eliminated the rear mech as the problem. He also commutes. Now I know it's Scotland and you think the whole of it is rural but we do have street lighting and Tarmac was even invented here, so I doubt he goes off road on his way to work.0 -
Veronese68 wrote:So I believe the best option would be to use a good cable with a sealed ferrule carefully routed. If he never takes it off road having the cable routing a bit neater will do no harm.
I don't disagree. I was trying to fix his sticky gear change. You are a PITA. You're turning into one of your customers. That one in Oz comes to mind.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Funny you should say that...Pinno wrote:He also commutes. Now I know it's Scotland and you think the whole of it is rural but we do have street lighting and Tarmac was even invented here, so I doubt he goes off road on his way to work.
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Don't let him know you've been off road, he thinks that's beyond a kink and an actual perversion. If he ever tried it and found he enjoyed it he'd have to don his hair shirt and flagellate himself for a week.bompington wrote:Funny you should say that...
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So I'm now at the stage of replacing cables. Can anyone tell me why it appears to be impossible to get a new cable into the hole that the old one came out of so easily?0
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It's like trying to get something back into a box it was delivered in. Which bit is proving difficult? Has the outer cable been crushed slightly? If so use an awl to make the hole round again. Check there are no sharp bits on the cut ends of the outer that can catch the inner.You don't have any ridiculous internal cable routing do you?0
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bompington wrote:Cheers Pinno. Christmas break over (no I wasn't being so lazy as not to get out at all - but not on this bike) so time to go back to the garage.
See if the mech moves freely (with the tension of the spring in mind) in all it's directions i/e down and across.
It does now - petrol & grease
Fraying of the gear cable around the BB
Fraying of the gear cable at the chain stay cable mount - it may not be apparent so put it into 1st gear to asses the cable at the point it may be rubbing in the liner/outer.
Cable looks fine the whole way through
Is the transmission needing a good clean?
Can see my face in it, literally
Is the chain worn out?
Probably not in the 10 minutes and 0 miles since it was fitted ;-)
If the upper jockey wheel is bunged up and the essential play in it is compromised, it may need cleaning/lubricating.
Clean, shiny and running free
Do your sti/ergo levers need lubrication?
All fine.
Basically everything cable-wise is running smooth and free - with the possible exception of the last stretch (the sheathed bit) from the seat stay mount to the mech.
The mech moves freely when not attached but there is palpable friction with the cable on. If I take the outer out of its stops then the cable feels as free as anything running through it: in fact I can't identify any friction anywhere.
So I thought - is it the bend of the cable at this point? It's always looked to me like the outer is a bit long here, forcing the cable into too wide a loop. Could this be the problem?
I can't see any comments regarding the pivots - if they are gunged up they would produce these symptoms. Until you've cleaned and re-greased these you can't really say that you've eliminated the mech as being the cause.FFS! Harden up and grow a pair
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I've pulled the old cable completely so we're talking about threading it into the shifter here (Sram Force). With the hood peeled back and in highest gear the hole is clearly visible - but the cable just goes in about 5mm then stops dead no matter how I shoogle it. So far all I've managed to do is fray the end a few times - there's a limit to how many times I can trim it...
@svetty - see the first comment, I have done that and the mech moves very freely now when not attached to anything. We've moved on to cabling issues now, as you can see if you read through...0 -
bompington wrote:@svetty - see the first comment, I have done that and the mech moves very freely now when not attached to anything. We've moved on to cabling issues now, as you can see if you read through...
Sorry, can't see anywhere that you'd dismantled and properly cleaned these out - apologies...FFS! Harden up and grow a pair0 -
Aah, not done a Sram one so can't say how awkward they are. Just had a quick Google and found this video in which the bloke seems to manage it irritatingly easily. Having watched it is the shifter in the right position for the cable to go through? Maybe trim the old cable and use that to make sure it goes through easily before putting the new one through.bompington wrote:I've pulled the old cable completely so we're talking about threading it into the shifter here (Sram Force). With the hood peeled back and in highest gear the hole is clearly visible - but the cable just goes in about 5mm then stops dead no matter how I shoogle it. So far all I've managed to do is fray the end a few times - there's a limit to how many times I can trim it...
Good luck with it.0 -
I snip the old cable at the mech end, just in front of the end cap, then push enough cable back to get the stopper at the brifter end available. Then snip the stopper off, epoxy the new cable to the old cable, and gently pull the new cable through the system, from the mech end of the( in situ ) old cable. I find it saves a lot of hassle. Once the new cable is in, snip the old cable off, just before the epoxy bit.0
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So, thanks for the suggestions people.
With snow and sub-zero temps forecast for Tuesday I really wanted to get the ice bike fixed on Monday night, so into the garage (temp about 4°) I went.
Using an old bit of cable (with the end dipped in superglue - man I was nervous about making sure it had dried) I was eventually able to get the shifter threaded: it did bring out a wee bit of gunge which might have been in the way.
Or alternatively, my spare cable is, I think (it's been sitting around for a while), Shimano which is apparently 1.2mm as against Sram's 1.1mm - internet opinion seemed to be that it should still fit.
Anyway, I then managed to thread the new cable: again I used the superglued end trick - but one strand still managed to get stuck.
With no backup I decided to try anyway, carefully peeling the loose strand all the way up the cable.
Net result was slightly better shifting. Not exactly the result I was hoping for.
The cable seemed to move totally freely at every point, the mech is moving as freely as you could wish for, but still sticky shifting.
Tues commute went fine, just had to be careful with shifting - actually a bit better on the road, perhaps the vibration helps it settle in the right place.
A bit more net searching, and the best suggestion I can find is to do with internal cabling: that the cable can cut into the plastic guide that runs inside the top tube.
This would fit with the observation that the gears need to be pushed further than one click to change in both directions.
So it seems the best suggestion seems to be to replace the guide. Read that STW thread and it starts to look like this is not getting any simpler: talk of drilling out, dropping forks for access....0 -
Can you get hold of a long length of outer and run a single piece of outer from shifter to mech, just cable tie it to the frame where necessary. It won't be pretty but will eliminate any other issues. Then look at fannying about with it when it's warmer.bompington wrote:So it seems the best suggestion seems to be to replace the guide. Read that STW thread and it starts to look like this is not getting any simpler: talk of drilling out, dropping forks for access....0 -
Yeah, maybe that. Did it with my old MTB years ago and it made a huge difference.Veronese68 wrote:
Can you get hold of a long length of outer and run a single piece of outer from shifter to mech, just cable tie it to the frame where necessary. It won't be pretty but will eliminate any other issues. Then look at fannying about with it when it's warmer.bompington wrote:So it seems the best suggestion seems to be to replace the guide. Read that STW thread and it starts to look like this is not getting any simpler: talk of drilling out, dropping forks for access....0 -
Hi! I’ve just bought an s-works sl6 disc. Great bike ...
There is however something strange about the Di2 gear shifting : I cannot use all 22 gears.
Now the bike shop tells me that this is no surprise because the disc causes the wheel to be wider and as a consequence not all gears can be ‘reached’. In fact, 6 of the gears cannot be used. As a single example the 2 smallest gears at the rear cannot be driven by the smallest front gear/sprocket.
Does anyone have any experience of this??
Dougal0 -
Is this the shop you bought the bike from, if so you’ve got problems. If not go to another shop.0
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Wot he said. Perhaps post in 'Workshop'. I am not that familiar with Di2.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0
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Impressive guide well done, can anyone help with a video on how to use the derailleur aligner tool? My one slightly deviates...0
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Hi there guys,
I'm in the process of moving my old ultegra 6700 into my brand new fuji sl frame. Installing the rear derailleur I came across this:
https://imgur.com/gallery/TWUVdyl
I can't remember if in my old Lapierre frame ithe fit looked like this, however it does not feel like it would push or lock properly with the hanger....
Any ideas? Suggestions? Am I being too paranoid and should go ahead with the installation? Thanks a million!0 -
When you say 'it doesn't lock', do you mean that the hanger isn't flush with the frame?
Can you elaborate?
Or are you referring to the fact that the thread of the mounting bolt only goes so far and the mech is not flush with the hanger on the mounting bolt?
If the mech is flush to the hanger, then it's fine but if there is a gap from the mech to the hanger, there's something amiss.
Lastly, is the pulley adjustment screw (refer to page 1 of this thread) catching on the hanger? It looks like you may need to rotate the body of the mech as you tighten the mounting bolt so that the adjustment screw is not interfering with the hanger.
There should be no compatibility problems, by the way. Any mech should fit the hanger of your new frame.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Thanks Pinno for your prompt reply, I really appreciate it. You will forgive me for my explanations, as you might imagine english is not my first language and when vocab gets technical I sound profoundly retarded
I have taken some more pics in better light conditions as yesterday I worked late on the bike (wonders of having toddlers around, you can't really spread your workshop in the garden).
https://imgur.com/gallery/tFRnWRr
As you can see the screw goes all the way in and is flush pressed with the hanger, however there is a kind of small "aperture" that does not really embrace the hanger, it just sits on it (however it looks alright to me).
The bit of metal and screw that holds and pushes the hanger from the back does not fully sit on it, however it looks like it's held properly.
Just in case I placed a bid on a new derailleur on ebay lol0 -
That looks cross threaded.
You may need a replacement hanger which are readily available.
They are made 'soft' as it's better to strip a hanger than a mech.
Try remounting it and if you fail, get a new hanger.
I hope your fleabay bid fails seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
It was the actual derailleur, I ended up updating to uktegra 6800 as a treat to myself.
Thanks for your help 0
