Felt AR rubbing behind chainring and wobbly front forks

jpower

Very interesting and now things make more sense.

The bung was sitting high:-



I looked inside to see if there was an allen key or something to loosen the bung, but its fully threaded and no allen so not sure how you remove this:-



By chance just thumping it by my hand I could make it seat flush, I then tried to lift it out but could not"-



Now I do not need the extra 3mm spacer it pre-loads with the existing spacers that came with the bike.

My only concern is if that bung is in place properly and that it would not push out again, but I have no idea how to loosen or tightened it.

Ben6899

Here you go: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/ques ... ug-removal

jpower

Ben6899 wrote:

Here you go: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/ques ... ug-removal

Perfecto. I don't want to mess anything up now I've got this far, so I need a long Allen key 3mm and that should allow me to loosen and tighten.

The problem on that link sounds exactly like mine, so rather then taking it out as its seated now would you suggest I just give it a quarter turn tighter to keep it in place?

JesseD

I had one of these expanding steerer clamps on my Felt Z85, IMO its a really poor design and would feel tight when you did it up by hand, then when you added the bolt for preload the bung would slip upwards as has happened to you.

I sorted it by buying one of Wiggles lifeline ones for about £5 if I remember correctly and it was worked perfectly with no slippage.

JesseD

Actually its this one for about £5.69

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-compre ... untryId=74

Bargin and has a carbon cap too (although you could probably recycle yours if you are attached to it!)

jpower

So we are going for bad design and better to replace it to stop the problem just reoccurring after a few rides?

JesseD

Either, it kept happening on mine so I replaced it, was speaking from experience!

Hopefully you won't have the same problem I did but if you do it's a cheap fix!

jpower

Got it. If it reoccurs I will just change the compression plug. I'm quite convinced it will, but lets see at least I feel better knowing the issue and I learnt some bike mechanics, very pleased with myself, thanks to all you folks.

jpower

Hey guys I'm back again :-(

It's not that bad, so there is no judder, however I have noticed when going over bad roads, the front end is so damn noisy, I know the headset movement has stopped, however could that noise still be coming from the headset? I'm seriously thinking to change it for the link provided above, but before I do this, is there qualities in headset because I really can't stand the noise.

jpower

No way, so after banging the bike around to try and re-create the sound, I don't think it's got anything to do with the front end, in fact I think the issue is my rear brake light, which is an under saddle one, but more to the point is one noisey bugger, even just shaking the unit by hand it's noisy, hence over the bumps it's worse, I think I just did not realise that the sound is coming from there. Will remove and try that on my next outing. Then I will need to figure out a light fitting for my huge aero post

Ben6899

I use this solution on one of my bikes. It's Cateye specific, but you might be able to get something similar for your light (or your light might be Cateye!).

It fastens across the saddle rails at the rear of the saddle...

https://goo.gl/images/f6SYzZ

phil485

I've asked the question in another thread, but does anyone know the spec of the top headset bearing on these bikes.
Can see the image on the first page. The one with the loose ball race.
Trying to source a replacement for mine.

jpower

Phil485 wrote:

I've asked the question in another thread, but does anyone know the spec of the top headset bearing on these bikes.
Can see the image on the first page. The one with the loose ball race.
Trying to source a replacement for mine.

Someone mentioned: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-compre ... arbon-cap/ if you do try this, be interested myself to know if it fits.

From the specs of AR1 (means nothing to me):-
FSA No. 382/DJ integrated, 1.125" - 1.25" sealed cartridge bearing with Felt VariableHeight Cone Spacers (20mm PC, 4.5mm aluminum), 2 x 5mm + 1 x 10mm PC headset spacers, Felt compression device, carbon fiber top cap and aluminum bolt

phil485

I'm ok with the bung, got mine tight and seems to sit ok.
Its the headset bearing that sits under the cover, with the loose ball race.

jpower wrote:

The ride today was quite hairy and very damn noisy.

So I have tried removing the cap you mention, did not help. I tried with one less spacer, didn't make any difference:-



Here another pic showing whats under the cover:-



I can take the whole lot out, but not sure what I should be looking for, I can see a lot of brown bits, so guessing there been some water ingress.

Any other steps for me, or is down to the workshop? Is a new headset expensive?

jpower

Got you, so I recall taking that out and there a number stamped on the ring, i'd assume thats the part number you need, I was thinking to take a ic of this but never did

phil485

Mine is so rusted i cant see the numbers

jpower

Yeah I do recall not taking the pic because the number was barely readable, I have sent an email to contact I had for felt as I had an issue on delivery, will let you know the response. I would say I'll take mine apart to have a read, but I would like to avoid that if I can, but worse case if I get no response I will take apart and get the number for you.

jpower

WOW impressed with Felt response time:-

FSA No.44 headset from model year 2014 and newer. It’s being sold as FSA Orbit C-33 and uses 1 1/8“ 45°/45° and 1 1/4“ 45°/45° bearings.

phil485

Blimey, will take a look and see what I can find. Thank you ..

phil485

Just to finish this off. I got a bearing from wych bearings which seems to fit ok.
Rode in to work this morning and no issues.

Wych part number ACB 4545 1125 Headset Bearing 30.5x41.8x7.9.

Just waiting for a new stem now and the refurb will be complete.

jpower

Phil485 wrote:

Just to finish this off. I got a bearing from wych bearings which seems to fit ok.
Rode in to work this morning and no issues.

Wych part number ACB 4545 1125 Headset Bearing 30.5x41.8x7.9.

Just waiting for a new stem now and the refurb will be complete.

Good to know and much better price. Happy riding.

me-109

That looks to me like it is the top bearing race protruding from the top of the headtube.

Jeproks123

jpower wrote:

The ride today was quite hairy and very damn noisy.

So I have tried removing the cap you mention, did not help. I tried with one less spacer, didn't make any difference:-



Here another pic showing whats under the cover:-



I can take the whole lot out, but not sure what I should be looking for, I can see a lot of brown bits, so guessing there been some water ingress.

Any other steps for me, or is down to the workshop? Is a new headset expensive?

I have the same bike as you have. I changed my headset bearings to fsa bearings and lately i changed the fsa top bearing cover to something that has deeper concave. It covered the gap and steers pretty smooth now. What i suggest you to do is just change the bearings and that will help you to get rid of the rattling. Felt ar headset stock bearings are not durable enough to last long. Hope this will help you

jpower

Thanks. So a few months back I decided to chop the stem to the right height, the Felt authorised shop I went to were amazing. I never mentioned about the headset as it seemed ok but still had the gap. I ha e no idea what they did but when I got the bike back, that gap is gone and even the bottom cover is tight now it does not spin around like it used too. Been this way a few months now and no issues at all.