Steering Tube/Stem Help
Comments
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If by tool you mean an appropriately-sized allen key - surely you must have one of those? You simply push the 'silver' part of the assembly into the steerer, tighten it, then the top cap fastens down into that in order to give you the correct headset preload.0
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Imposter wrote:If by tool you mean an appropriately-sized allen key - surely you must have one of those? You simply push the 'silver' part of the assembly into the steerer, tighten it, then the top cap fastens down into that in order to give you the correct headset preload.
Yeah don't have one that is that long, I am going to get one tomorrow but the mechanic at the shop said its vital that it is 7nm.
I need a 4mm allen key that is long enough and compatible with my torque wrench.0 -
KevinA wrote:Imposter wrote:If by tool you mean an appropriately-sized allen key - surely you must have one of those? You simply push the 'silver' part of the assembly into the steerer, tighten it, then the top cap fastens down into that in order to give you the correct headset preload.
Yeah don't have one that is that long, I am going to get one tomorrow but the mechanic at the shop said its vital that it is 7nm.
I need a 4mm allen key that is long enough and compatible with my torque wrench.
OK lets take this from the top. What Imposter says is correct. Unscrew the bolt you have and separate the black part of the assembly from the bottom (silver) bit. The bolt you can see in your picture holds the two parts of the assembly together but does not expand the bung. This bolt screws into the expanding part of the bung which is locked in place in the steerer tube by using an allen key in the bung bit of the assembly (normally a larger diameter than the bolt which screws into it).
1. Just put the expanding part into the steerer tube and tighten the bung in place using a normal allen key, just tighten enough to lock in place, no need for 7Nm or a torque wrench.
2. Now slide the stem onto the steerer using spacers as required to position the stem at the required height.
3. Now put the top cap on and use the bolt to connect it to the bung.
4. Tighten it until there is no play in the headset (put front brake on and rock back and forth to feel for play).
5. Now make sure stem is aligned with front wheel and do the stem bolts up evenly a bit at a time using your torque wrench (its these clamp bolts that require the wrench).
6. job done.Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
Van Raam 'O' Pair
Land Rover (really nasty weather
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bbrap wrote:KevinA wrote:Imposter wrote:If by tool you mean an appropriately-sized allen key - surely you must have one of those? You simply push the 'silver' part of the assembly into the steerer, tighten it, then the top cap fastens down into that in order to give you the correct headset preload.
Yeah don't have one that is that long, I am going to get one tomorrow but the mechanic at the shop said its vital that it is 7nm.
I need a 4mm allen key that is long enough and compatible with my torque wrench.
OK lets take this from the top. What Imposter says is correct. Unscrew the bolt you have and separate the black part of the assembly from the bottom (silver) bit. The bolt you can see in your picture holds the two parts of the assembly together but does not expand the bung. This bolt screws into the expanding part of the bung which is locked in place in the steerer tube by using an allen key in the bung bit of the assembly (normally a larger diameter than the bolt which screws into it).
1. Just put the expanding part into the steerer tube and tighten the bung in place using a normal allen key, just tighten enough to lock in place, no need for 7Nm or a torque wrench.
2. Now slide the stem onto the steerer using spacers as required to position the stem at the required height.
3. Now put the top cap on and use the bolt to connect it to the bung.
4. Tighten it until there is no play in the headset (put front brake on and rock back and forth to feel for play).
5. Now make sure stem is aligned with front wheel and do the stem bolts up evenly a bit at a time using your torque wrench (its these clamp bolts that require the wrench).
6. job done.
Perfect, many thanks for this. only bit I want to make sure is 3
When you say use the bolt and connect it to the bung, the top cap screws onto the top of the bung. Is that what you mean?
I don't have a bolt to screw down (like my other bike)0 -
KevinA wrote:I don't have a bolt to screw down (like my other bike)
Is this the bolt in the first pic, which first you said you didn't have, then said you did have, and now you're saying you don't have it again?0 -
Normally you need a 5mm allen key for the silver bit (fork expander) and a 6mm for the black bit (top cap).
Detach black top cap from silver expander using 6mm allen key.
Put silver expander in fork (tighten with 5mm allen key so it will still move down inside the fork, but isn't loose).
When silver expander is approximately where lower stem bolt will tighten, full tighten the expander with 5mm allen key (7-8nm normally).
Put on stem and any spacers on fork, do not touch the stem bolts.
Put black top cap on fork and screw down with fingers until it's too hard to turn. Then tighten with 6mm allen key.
Line up stem and torque bolts to 5-6nm...
It really is that easy.0 -
Imposter wrote:KevinA wrote:I don't have a bolt to screw down (like my other bike)
Is this the bolt in the first pic, which first you said you didn't have, then said you did have, and now you're saying you don't have it again?
I don't have a bolt that goes down from the top cap. The top cap screws into the silver part as in pic 2.0 -
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KevinA wrote:Imposter wrote:KevinA wrote:I don't have a bolt to screw down (like my other bike)
Is this the bolt in the first pic, which first you said you didn't have, then said you did have, and now you're saying you don't have it again?
I don't have a bolt that goes down from the top cap. The top cap screws into the silver part as in pic 2.
But this bit has a hex screw head in the middle, that can be used to tighten it down against the bung which has been locked inside the steerer.Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
Van Raam 'O' Pair
Land Rover (really nasty weather )0 -
I've made the call to Headset Central Swat - stand down .. Internet bogus call... it'll be up to 'Whats your Emergency' team to follow up and prosecute.0
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Imposter wrote:
You're wrong.
There is only one bolt, a 5mm hex that tightens into the expander to lock it in place.
The black top cap screws on to/into the silver expander.
THIS IS SO SIMPLE GUYS!0 -
Ryan_W wrote:You're wrong.
There is only one bolt, a 5mm hex that tightens into the expander to lock it in place.
The black top cap screws on to/into the silver expander.
THIS IS SO SIMPLE GUYS!
It's one of these, is it not?
If it is, then you're wrong. If it isn't, then I'm wrong.0 -
You're wrong, twice!
How can you not see the thread on the middle item (the expander body)?!
The top cap screws on to that.
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Yeah you're right, I'm getting my bolts confused.0
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Ryan_W wrote:You're wrong, twice!
How can you not see the thread on the middle item (the expander body)?!
The top cap screws on to that.
Got it back together, many thanks for your help. I need to adjust the depth of the as the top cap is a few mm higher than the last spacer.
Bloody awkward though0 -
Imposter wrote:Ryan_W wrote:You're wrong.
There is only one bolt, a 5mm hex that tightens into the expander to lock it in place.
The black top cap screws on to/into the silver expander.
THIS IS SO SIMPLE GUYS!
It's one of these, is it not?
Similar except I don't have the bolt that goes down the middle
Missus just found a spacer in the kitchen so all fixed now0 -
Glad we all finally got there 0
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Me too Ryan.
I suppose as a newbie it is good to learn new things and its good that I was able to get support from you guys.0 -
That's the fun; research, ask, question, learn and achieve.0
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Ryan_W wrote:That's the fun; research, ask, question, learn and achieve.
Yeah I am gagging on doing a bit more DIY with the bike. I want to try and change my front brake cable but that will be for another time.
Putting new bar tape on my cervelo so no doubt that will be just as frustrating.0 -
Lol. Great thread! Make sure you sort that gap though.0
