Steering Tube/Stem Help

KevinA
KevinA Posts: 492
edited January 2017 in Workshop
Hi Guys

I have bought a new stem for my road bike and have fitted it, but not 100% sure ive done it correctly.

The bike is a Bianchi Oltre XR1.

To remove the stem that was on it all I done was unscrew the 4 screws that kept the handlebars on and there were another 4 screws on the stem. Once I had all the screws off I started to turn the stem anti clockwise and this then released the stem from the bike.

I then put the new stem on, and turning it clockwise until it wasnt moving when I put a little force against it. I did the screws up and made sure it was lined up properly.

Is this correct or have I dont anything that I shouldnt, if I had kept tightening the stem when putting it back on is there a danger I would damage the bike or is it a case of doing it until you cant move it at all when you have your front wheel locked between your legs and you try and move the stem?

Thanks, sorry for being vague but its hard to explain without pictures which I dont have
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Comments

  • Ben6899
    Ben6899 Posts: 9,686
    I'm not sure what you've done (turning the stem anti-clockwise and clockwise has me confused), but I just did a quick Google in the hope there's a web page that explains better than I can in words only. And...

    https://www.purecycles.com/blogs/bicycl ... ace-a-stem
    Ben

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  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    When I took the screws out I couldn't just lift the stem off the stering tube, I had to rotate it anti-clockwise to remove it, and when I put the stem on it was loose (it wasn't remotely tight) so I had to rotate it clockwise to tighten it.

    I have the stem on and it seems tight but being a novice at bike maintenance I thought I would ask before I start riding and its too late to before I realise ive messed up

    My bike never had a top screw just four bolts that were at the back of the stem so it looks like it was a little bit different from the picture and what I could find.
  • bbrap
    bbrap Posts: 610
    Was this a new bike? Sounds like the top cap/bolt and bung is missing. Are you saying that the steerer tube is completely hollow? Can't see how you can pre-load the bearings without one.
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  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Read Parktools and try again.
    After reading.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You certainly shouldn't be having to twist the stem on the steerer, both should be round!

    At no point have you mentioned the top cap, that needs to be done up to preload the headset before doing up the stem clamping bolts.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    cooldad wrote:
    Read Parktools and try again.
    After reading.

    I have read and viewed many videos but my top cap never had a screw in it.

    The bike was bought new and the bars were changed but at time of receiving the bike and after the new bars were set up by my LBS I have never had a top cap with a screw.

    The top cap is there but no screw.

    The bike has been serviced and never had any issues with the steering tube or the stem slipping but as I hav replaced the stem and sought guidance from various sites and videos they mostly mentioned the top screw.

    I am merely trying to establish if all bikes are like this and I should take the bike to the shop which services it or if what I have done is common.
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    The Rookie wrote:
    You certainly shouldn't be having to twist the stem on the steerer, both should be round!

    At no point have you mentioned the top cap, that needs to be done up to preload the headset before doing up the stem clamping bolts.

    Bike has never had a top cap screw. The top cap is there and was tight on but there has never been a screw, when you look down there is nowhere for the screw to attach to and tighten.

    I will try and take some pics when I get home from work.

    I held the front wheel between my legs and twisted the stem on and it tightened, if I didnt and I tightened all the screws up it would move at the slightest touch.
  • bbrap
    bbrap Posts: 610
    No, all bikes are not like that. Does your top cap prise off? What is underneath it? I suspect the shop must have used a top cap with a screw to pre load the bearings, then once the job was done removed it and replaced with a neater plug of some sort. I can't understand why but it is a possibility. If you are still unsure the best bet is to take it back to the shop and let them do it (but ask to watch what they do).
    Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
    Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
    Van Raam 'O' Pair
    Land Rover (really nasty weather :lol: )
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    KevinA wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    Read Parktools and try again.
    After reading.

    I have read and viewed many videos but my top cap never had a screw in it.

    ................................

    Parktools will give you up to date info. Any monkey can stick a vid on Youtube. Many are useful, some are just plain cr4p.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • bbrap
    bbrap Posts: 610
    cooldad wrote:
    Parktools will give you up to date info. Any monkey can stick a vid on Youtube. Many are useful, some are just plain cr4p.

    A direct link to the bit of the site you are speaking of would be more helpful.
    Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
    Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
    Van Raam 'O' Pair
    Land Rover (really nasty weather :lol: )
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    OP.. make sure you are 100% happy with your self install... the last thing you want to happen is that steerer to come apart on the road... not good as anyone will testify if things have gone badly wrong with the steering...
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    cooldad wrote:
    KevinA wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    Read Parktools and try again.
    After reading.

    I have read and viewed many videos but my top cap never had a screw in it.

    ................................

    Parktools will give you up to date info. Any monkey can stick a vid on Youtube. Many are useful, some are just plain cr4p.

    I was actually watching videos from cycling companies, ie GCN and CRC

    I wasn't watching your average joe doing work
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    JGSI wrote:
    OP.. make sure you are 100% happy with your self install... the last thing you want to happen is that steerer to come apart on the road... not good as anyone will testify if things have gone badly wrong with the steering...

    Yeah I am generally happy with the maintenance I do but as it is a vital part of the bike I am a bit paranoid as it does seem different from the parktools and videos.

    Probably more my paranoia than anything
  • bbrap
    bbrap Posts: 610
    I think we need to wait until you have had the chance to take some piccies. Then we will know what we are dealing with.
    Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
    Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
    Van Raam 'O' Pair
    Land Rover (really nasty weather :lol: )
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    bbrap wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    Parktools will give you up to date info. Any monkey can stick a vid on Youtube. Many are useful, some are just plain cr4p.

    A direct link to the bit of the site you are speaking of would be more helpful.

    Link in my sig goes to a picture of a bike and a list of areas. Easy enough to click on the bit you need. We're all grown ups here, people can do some things for themselves.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • bbrap
    bbrap Posts: 610
    cooldad wrote:
    bbrap wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    Parktools will give you up to date info. Any monkey can stick a vid on Youtube. Many are useful, some are just plain cr4p.

    A direct link to the bit of the site you are speaking of would be more helpful.

    Link in my sig goes to a picture of a bike and a list of areas. Easy enough to click on the bit you need. We're all grown ups here, people can do some things for themselves.

    We are supposed to try and help, if I wanted to play guessing games I'd go to the appropriate place. Just because you know your way round the park tools site does not mean that everyone else is as comfortable finding the exact piece of info you are alluding to. Just point out the correct link and stop being an arse.
    Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
    Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
    Van Raam 'O' Pair
    Land Rover (really nasty weather :lol: )
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I was helping. Perhaps a bit of general hunting and reading can be beneficial to a lot of people.

    But if I ever post to help you, I'll be sure to make it as simple as possible.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • bbrap
    bbrap Posts: 610
    cooldad wrote:
    I was helping. Perhaps a bit of general hunting and reading can be beneficial to a lot of people.

    But if I ever post to help you, I'll be sure to make it as simple as possible.

    I fully understand that it can be beneficial. But given that the OP obviously has a set up that differs from what would normally be found on that model of bike it seems pointless to keep pointing him at a set of instructions which explain the standard set up. We need to let the OP take some pictures then we will be able to advise the appropriate course of action in his case. I suspect the outcome will be that he will need to get an expansion bung and a new top cap & bolt to allow a standard set up.

    In my case, I'm just a simple engineer with 40 years of experience so go easy on me :P
    Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
    Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
    Van Raam 'O' Pair
    Land Rover (really nasty weather :lol: )
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    I will tske it apart and show you what I am dealing with and then put the stem on.

    Thanks guys
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Must say I'm intrigued! Can't imagine what's keeping the top cap on if it has no central bolt. And I don't think I've ever seen a stem secured to a steerer with 4 bolts.

    Do Bianchi have some proprietary thing going on??
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    Some Looks have the headset preload tension set by a screw-on upper bearing cap that is tightened by means of an external BB type large ring spanner - the stem bolts just hold the stem in place on the steerer. Could be something similar here??
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I've googled for pics of the bike and all I've found have what look like conventional headsets / stems. I know various manufacturers have at one time and another tried proprietary things, the odd looking capless Canyon thing for one, but I've never had anything but a topcap with a bolt and a stem held on by 2 pinch bolts. Looking forward to the pics...
  • bbrap
    bbrap Posts: 610
    keef66 wrote:
    I've googled for pics of the bike and all I've found have what look like conventional headsets / stems. I know various manufacturers have at one time and another tried proprietary things, the odd looking capless Canyon thing for one, but I've never had anything but a topcap with a bolt and a stem held on by 2 pinch bolts. Looking forward to the pics...

    I did the same, looks like a standard setup to me. I too look forward to seeing what the OP has fitted to his bike.
    Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
    Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
    Van Raam 'O' Pair
    Land Rover (really nasty weather :lol: )
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    Ok I think I've figured it out. I don't have a screw that goes down but I do have two bits that connect and if I put my multi tool down and tighten it expands the bit that is in the steering tube. Am I right in thinking if I do this as tight as required and then out the stem on and do up the screws that will be it secure and safe? Pic of the two bits I'm talking about will be up in 2 mins
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    It doesn't sound to me as if the OP understands how the headset bearings work. It sounds like he has a bung in-situ but I'm still not clear how his pre-load is set if there isn't a topcap?
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    Yeah clueless mate haha, taking into the LBS and they are going to fix it for me and cut the stem, for £30.

    Thought I would try and do it myself but out my depth.
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    £30 - they saw you coming.

    If you want any help in saving that amount and learning something at the same time, post some pics like you were asked. Posting pics costs nothing.
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    I think I know how to do it but I don't have the tool for it.

    The £30 is for putting my frame and stem back on the bike as I took it apart and for cutting the steering tube.

    On the GCN https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kD_EJjQCLoY the top cap has the screw in it, on my bike the screw isn't on the top, its actually down the middle of the top cap.

    I would need an adaptor as my torque wrench doesn't have the adaptor that will go that far down to reach the bottom so I am unable to tighten it. I believe it has to be 7nm

    Is this right or am I way off base?

    20170106_183252_zpsil20imjd.jpg

    20170106_183247_zpsxpqgu6eq.jpg
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    You say it 'doesn't have a central bolt' - but there is a pic of the centre bolt in the first image.
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    It wasn't when I took it apart that I realised that it was a bolt, I thought it was flat.

    It was hard to see when it was attached to the bike.

    I believe that this should be put 35 - 40 mm into the steering tube and tightened to 7nm but I don't have the tool