Change cassette or chain rings?
germcevoy
Posts: 414
Currently running 52/36 with an 11/28 at the rear. I am light myself and get up mostly anything where I ride but I would still like one more bail out gear for those steep climbs that go on a bit longer or for when I'm goosed and could do with just spinning.
I have a few ballbuster rides coming up this year and will definitely need to assess gearing. I've mostly really enjoyed the 52/36 but in truth the 52-11 combo rarely gets an outing so it's probably a wasted gear.
Options are keeping the chainrings as is and going to a 32 at the back (my 105 5800 mech can take it) or going to compact up front and staying at 28 at the rear.
Which is likely to make most real world difference? Is having a 52 at the front counter productive if I have a 32 at the rear?
If only a 12-30 11 speed cassette existed.
I have a few ballbuster rides coming up this year and will definitely need to assess gearing. I've mostly really enjoyed the 52/36 but in truth the 52-11 combo rarely gets an outing so it's probably a wasted gear.
Options are keeping the chainrings as is and going to a 32 at the back (my 105 5800 mech can take it) or going to compact up front and staying at 28 at the rear.
Which is likely to make most real world difference? Is having a 52 at the front counter productive if I have a 32 at the rear?
If only a 12-30 11 speed cassette existed.
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Comments
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You've already hinted, but normally a 32 would require a longer chain & bigger cage
Don't know about the cost but I'd opt for a compact at the front. Like you, I rarely use the big/small combo (perhaps because of where I live where all hills are short and steep).
There is a calculator somewhere which shows the relative power output of all combinations - saw it once but couldn't figure out how to work it0 -
Not Shimano, I use the Campag version and it's great so far.
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/miche-11s ... #pid=289010 -
I run a 52/36 on both of my main bikes. The pros and cons of sub-compacts against compact chain rings have been done to death here, but my feeling is that 52/36 gives me the most usable spread of gears for my style of riding. If this combination is working for you, then I don't see any reason to change.
That said, I would never argue against giving yourself an easier gear if you feel you need it. Hence I run a 28 tooth cassette on one bike and a 32 on the other. In my view (others may disagree), since we've moved to 11 speed, it's rare that you get the kind of gaps between gears that would have deterred riders from using wide range cassettes in the past.
I'd say go with a 32 tooth cassette.0 -
Germcevoy wrote:Currently running 52/36 with an 11/28 at the rear. I am light myself and get up mostly anything where I ride but I would still like one more bail out gear for those steep climbs that go on a bit longer or for when I'm goosed and could do with just spinning.
I have a few ballbuster rides coming up this year and will definitely need to assess gearing. I've mostly really enjoyed the 52/36 but in truth the 52-11 combo rarely gets an outing so it's probably a wasted gear.
Options are keeping the chainrings as is and going to a 32 at the back (my 105 5800 mech can take it) or going to compact up front and staying at 28 at the rear.
Which is likely to make most real world difference? Is having a 52 at the front counter productive if I have a 32 at the rear?
If only a 12-30 11 speed cassette existed.
I've always had a compact until last year new bike had a 52/36 and i was always in the wee ring much more then, since using the compact again over winter it's a bit more balanced which ring i'm in and both bikes have an 11/28 allthough the compacts 10 speed. I 'd say if it's within budget and you see something you want go compact and try and sell on your other chain rings.
What are the ballbuster rides out of Nosiness?0 -
Changing your cassette will give you a slightly easier gear (36x32 is a little easier than 34x28).
If you've got a medium or long cage rear derailleur then a cassette change is the cheapest and easiest solution. There shouldn't be an issue running semi-compact with an 11-32 unless you're someone who rides round in big/big all day. Just avoid the most extreme cross-chaining combinations which you probably do anyway.0 -
I run 52/36 - 11/28 and find that perfect for UK riding, I switch it down to a 50/34 when I hit the yearly alps trips. My plan for next year is to just put an 11-30 cassette on, that should work with my DA9070 and will give me the long mountain climg bailout gear whilst keeping the top end. For me that would be perfect as I'm happy with 34-28 as a bailout gear and this would be a smidge lower (35.1 inches v 35.5).
The general consensus seems to be that a short cage will run to 30 but you need a bigger derailleur to hit 32.0 -
jdee84 wrote:Germcevoy wrote:Currently running 52/36 with an 11/28 at the rear. I am light myself and get up mostly anything where I ride but I would still like one more bail out gear for those steep climbs that go on a bit longer or for when I'm goosed and could do with just spinning.
I have a few ballbuster rides coming up this year and will definitely need to assess gearing. I've mostly really enjoyed the 52/36 but in truth the 52-11 combo rarely gets an outing so it's probably a wasted gear.
Options are keeping the chainrings as is and going to a 32 at the back (my 105 5800 mech can take it) or going to compact up front and staying at 28 at the rear.
Which is likely to make most real world difference? Is having a 52 at the front counter productive if I have a 32 at the rear?
If only a 12-30 11 speed cassette existed.
I've always had a compact until last year new bike had a 52/36 and i was always in the wee ring much more then, since using the compact again over winter it's a bit more balanced which ring i'm in and both bikes have an 11/28 allthough the compacts 10 speed. I 'd say if it's within budget and you see something you want go compact and try and sell on your other chain rings.
What are the ballbuster rides out of Nosiness?
Tour of the Glens and the Giro Gran Fondo NI. And probably Torr Head.0 -
Jerry185 wrote:You've already hinted, but normally a 32 would require a longer chain & bigger cage
Don't know about the cost but I'd opt for a compact at the front. Like you, I rarely use the big/small combo (perhaps because of where I live where all hills are short and steep).
There is a calculator somewhere which shows the relative power output of all combinations - saw it once but couldn't figure out how to work it
Chain and cassette will be due replacing before long hence why I want to decide what to do now so I can spread the cost of buying in the parts.0 -
Stueys wrote:I run 52/36 - 11/28 and find that perfect for UK riding, I switch it down to a 50/34 when I hit the yearly alps trips. My plan for next year is to just put an 11-30 cassette on, that should work with my DA9070 and will give me the long mountain climg bailout gear whilst keeping the top end. For me that would be perfect as I'm happy with 34-28 as a bailout gear and this would be a smidge lower (35.1 inches v 35.5).
The general consensus seems to be that a short cage will run to 30 but you need a bigger derailleur to hit 32.
The 5800 medium cage derailleur I have is rated at 37t capacity so I'd get away with the new cassette and chain.
The current gearing is fine for 90% of what I do. I just want to avoid walking on some of these big rides I have targeted for the year.0 -
Germcevoy wrote:Tour of the Glens and the Giro Gran Fondo NI. And probably Torr Head.
I'd be looking for a compact and a 32 cassette if I was going over Torr Head!
In all seriousness, I have a semi compact with a 11-32 cassette on my Domane....and id STILL like a smaller gear as a bail out. I'm obviously just not strong enough for a 52-34 and don't mind admitting it.....next bike will definitely be compact.0 -
bsharp77 wrote:Germcevoy wrote:Tour of the Glens and the Giro Gran Fondo NI. And probably Torr Head.
I'd be looking for a compact and a 32 cassette if I was going over Torr Head!
In all seriousness, I have a semi compact with a 11-32 cassette on my Domane....and id STILL like a smaller gear as a bail out. I'm obviously just not strong enough for a 52-34 and don't mind admitting it.....next bike will definitely be compact.
Managed Torr head on 34/27 but it was extremely uncomfortable. Did it again on a 34/30 and found it to be no better. It's just a complete c**t of a road.
I think I'm in the same boat as you though. I do like having the 36 up front as I can get away with just leaving it on the small ring over rolling terrain but I'm never using the 52/11 so I might be better trading it in to get the 34/28 or 34/32 combo which would likely get more use.0 -
Price-wise, it's probably cheaper to swop the rings to 50/34 and negate the need for a long change rear mech. You will , however, probably miss the 36 on the flats and gentle slops as well as finding the drop from outer to inner ring trickier from a cadence POV.
I currently run 50/36 Q rings with an 11/32 cassette.... The 50 Q feels like a bigger ring in the power part of the stroke, when the legs have best mechanical advantage.0 -
MikeBrew wrote:Price-wise, it's probably cheaper to swop the rings to 50/34 and negate the need for a long change rear mech. You will , however, probably miss the 36 on the flats and gentle slops as well as finding the drop from outer to inner ring trickier from a cadence POV.
I currently run 50/36 Q rings with an 11/32 cassette.... The 50 Q feels like a bigger ring in the power part of the stroke, when the legs have best mechanical advantage.
He has already said he has a medium cage rear mech so he's fine with 11-32.0 -
MrB123 wrote:MikeBrew wrote:Price-wise, it's probably cheaper to swop the rings to 50/34 and negate the need for a long change rear mech. You will , however, probably miss the 36 on the flats and gentle slops as well as finding the drop from outer to inner ring trickier from a cadence POV.
I currently run 50/36 Q rings with an 11/32 cassette.... The 50 Q feels like a bigger ring in the power part of the stroke, when the legs have best mechanical advantage.
He has already said he has a medium cage rear mech so he's fine with 11-32.
Which begs the question, why did he upgrade the rear mech without upgrading the cassette at the time.0 -
MikeBrew wrote:MrB123 wrote:MikeBrew wrote:Price-wise, it's probably cheaper to swop the rings to 50/34 and negate the need for a long change rear mech. You will , however, probably miss the 36 on the flats and gentle slops as well as finding the drop from outer to inner ring trickier from a cadence POV.
I currently run 50/36 Q rings with an 11/32 cassette.... The 50 Q feels like a bigger ring in the power part of the stroke, when the legs have best mechanical advantage.
He has already said he has a medium cage rear mech so he's fine with 11-32.
Which begs the question, why did he upgrade the rear mech without upgrading the cassette at the time.
Bike came with a medium cage rear mech as standard.0 -
Cannondale Evo ?0
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Not sure that medium cage was standard fitment on those. I had 2015 CAAD 10 with same gearing, but short cage. What makes you say that yours has one ?0
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MikeBrew wrote:Not sure that medium cage was standard fitment on those. I had 2015 CAAD 10 with same gearing, but short cage. What makes you say that yours has one ?
Ignorance potentially. The cage looks longer than the Sora cage on my old bike and it took a 30t cassette no bother.
If mine is a short cage then that changes things as it won't be capable of taking a 32t. That'll be an extra £30 on top of £30 for a cassette and near £20 for a chain. A set of compact chain rings would be a lot more cost effective. Hmm0 -
Well its possible that it's med cage, but I'd get it checked to be sure. It was often said that short cage would go to 30T despite Shimano officially saying different.32T is probably a bridge too far. I bought a med cage Ultegra for the CAAD 10 to run 32T0
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MikeBrew wrote:Well its possible that it's med cage, but I'd get it checked to be sure. It was often said that short cage would go to 30T despite Shimano officially saying different.32T is probably a bridge too far. I bought a long cage Ultegra for the CAAD 10
I'll post a photo of it shortly. It doesn't look as stubby as the short cage derailleurs. If it won't take a 32 then that settles it and I'll go for compact up front. I don't really want to spend a fortune replacing already functional parts. Have my eye on a nice saddle and seat post as well.0 -
That looks a bit long for a short cage?
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OK, for the absence of any doubt : Short cage 64mm from centre to centre of the jockey wheels ; Med cage 84mm from centre to centre of the jockey wheels.0
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If 52-11 is a wasted gear you might as well go the whole hog and stick a compact at the front and whatever is the biggest range you can fit at the back. 50-11 is 123" gear, 52-12 is 117 so with the compact you don't lose out on any top end and you'll get several lower gears (34-32 is 29") than you had with the semi-compact (36-28 is 35").0
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Hinaultscrapcousin wrote:If 52-11 is a wasted gear you might as well go the whole hog and stick a compact at the front and whatever is the biggest range you can fit at the back. 50-11 is 123" gear, 52-12 is 117 so with the compact you don't lose out on any top end and you'll get several lower gears (34-32 is 29") than you had with the semi-compact (36-28 is 35").
I think this is the way to go. No point in keeping an almost redundant 52/11 when I can go compact and gain more useful gears at the other end.
A 34/32 might well be overkill but I'd rather have it in reserve for those occasions when it's needed rather than keep the 52/11.0 -
Germcevoy wrote:Hinaultscrapcousin wrote:If 52-11 is a wasted gear you might as well go the whole hog and stick a compact at the front and whatever is the biggest range you can fit at the back. 50-11 is 123" gear, 52-12 is 117 so with the compact you don't lose out on any top end and you'll get several lower gears (34-32 is 29") than you had with the semi-compact (36-28 is 35").
I think this is the way to go. No point in keeping an almost redundant 52/11 when I can go compact and gain more useful gears at the other end.
A 34/32 might well be overkill but I'd rather have it in reserve for those occasions when it's needed rather than keep the 52/11.
If you ever happen to find yourself on Hardknott you will not be thinking that 34/32 is overkill...0 -
Germcevoy wrote:Hinaultscrapcousin wrote:If 52-11 is a wasted gear you might as well go the whole hog and stick a compact at the front and whatever is the biggest range you can fit at the back. 50-11 is 123" gear, 52-12 is 117 so with the compact you don't lose out on any top end and you'll get several lower gears (34-32 is 29") than you had with the semi-compact (36-28 is 35").
I think this is the way to go. No point in keeping an almost redundant 52/11 when I can go compact and gain more useful gears at the other end.
A 34/32 might well be overkill but I'd rather have it in reserve for those occasions when it's needed rather than keep the 52/11.
It might be, but then you can always buy a new chain and an 11-28 and keep the 11-32/chain combo in case you are doing something where you really think you'll need it. I run 53/39 with an 11-25 most of the time on my geared bike and have an 11-28 incase I need a lower gear. It's good to have the options. I'd also have spare compact rings if I had the newer, asymmetric spider cranks.0 -
For the practical elements, you'll need a new chain and cassette soon enough anyway, so bunging an RD on top wont make much difference.
However, using such a dinner plate on the back is just sinful (as is a compact up front) on a nice road bike like your supersix.0 -
Hinaultscrapcousin wrote:Germcevoy wrote:Hinaultscrapcousin wrote:If 52-11 is a wasted gear you might as well go the whole hog and stick a compact at the front and whatever is the biggest range you can fit at the back. 50-11 is 123" gear, 52-12 is 117 so with the compact you don't lose out on any top end and you'll get several lower gears (34-32 is 29") than you had with the semi-compact (36-28 is 35").
I think this is the way to go. No point in keeping an almost redundant 52/11 when I can go compact and gain more useful gears at the other end.
A 34/32 might well be overkill but I'd rather have it in reserve for those occasions when it's needed rather than keep the 52/11.
It might be, but then you can always buy a new chain and an 11-28 and keep the 11-32/chain combo in case you are doing something where you really think you'll need it. I run 53/39 with an 11-25 most of the time on my geared bike and have an 11-28 incase I need a lower gear. It's good to have the options. I'd also have spare compact rings if I had the newer, asymmetric spider cranks.
The costs start to rack up if buying two chains, two cassettes, new rings and possible a longer cage derailleur to take the 32t cassette. More than I'd planned on spending.
I'll get compact rings and try them out with the existing chain and 11/28 cassette. If I still feel I need more then I'll explore an 11/32 at that time.0
